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Tomato and Egg Stir-Fry
About 2 servings with rice
Allow roughly 20 minutes, plus rice cooking. Have rice cooked before starting the stir-fry, or choose the combined rice cook-along. Follow the cooking cues and temperature check rather than a fixed timer.
10–12-inch nonstick skillet, spatula, bowl, clean plate and food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 450 g ripe tomatoes (about 1 lb), hard stem cores removed
- 4 large eggs
- 1 scallion, white and green parts sliced separately
- 2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, divided
- 1/2 teaspoon fine table salt, divided
- Up to 1 teaspoon sugar, optional
- 1–3 tablespoons water, only if needed
- Freshly cooked rice, to serve
Method
Get everything ready
Wash the tomatoes and scallion. Cut the tomatoes into roughly 2 cm wedges, keeping their seeds and juice. Slice the scallion, keeping the whites separate from the greens.
Beat the eggs
Beat the eggs with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt until the whites and yolks are evenly mixed. Wash hands and utensils after contact with raw egg. Have a separate clean plate ready for the cooked eggs.
Make broad curds
Warm 1 tablespoon of oil in the skillet over medium heat; do not let it smoke. Pour in the eggs and use the spatula to draw the setting egg into broad curds. Once set and no longer runny, move them to the clean plate. Continue straight on with the tomatoes.
Give the tomatoes the pan
Add the remaining tablespoon of oil, scallion whites, tomatoes and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the wedges soften and release juice. If they catch before releasing liquid, lower the heat and add 1 tablespoon water. Repeat only if needed, using no more than the listed 3 tablespoons.
Keep enough sauce for the rice
Let a watery mixture simmer uncovered until the liquid becomes a light tomato sauce; do not cook it dry. Taste a cooled spoonful before returning the eggs. If it is too tart for your taste, add sugar in 1/4-teaspoon increments, up to 1 teaspoon. Sugar is optional, not an automatic addition.
Fold, then check
Return the eggs, add the scallion greens and fold gently, breaking up only the largest curds. Cook the combined egg dish to 160°F (71°C), checking several places with a food thermometer without touching the pan.
Spoon it over rice
Turn off the burner. Serve promptly with freshly cooked rice, sharing the tomato juices between the portions. Do not leave the eggs in the hot skillet while waiting for the rice to cook.
Jasmine Rice in a Saucepan and the Quiet Finish
1 cup dry rice, about 3 cups cooked
Use white jasmine rice and US measuring cups. Allow time to rinse and bring the pot to a simmer, then about 12 minutes covered and 10 minutes off the heat.
Medium saucepan with a close-fitting lid, fine sieve, measuring cup and tablespoon, and rice paddle or spatula.
Ingredients
- 1 cup dry white jasmine rice
- 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, after rinsing and draining the rice
Method
Rinse and drain
Measure 1 cup dry white jasmine rice. Swish it in water, drain, and repeat until the water is less cloudy. Drain in a fine sieve.
Measure the water
Put the drained rice in a medium saucepan with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water. This is the same as 1¼ cups minus 2 tablespoons. Use a close-fitting lid, but leave it off initially.
Bring to a simmer
Bring the surface to an active simmer over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cover.
Let the rice cook
Cook for about 12 minutes, until the water is absorbed. If necessary, briefly check beneath an opaque lid; do not keep opening it or stir the grains. Stay in the kitchen and keep an eye on the pot.
Rest off the heat
Turn off the burner and move the covered pan off the heat for 10 minutes. Keep the lid on while the rice rests.
Loosen the grains
Lift the hot lid away from your face and hands. Loosen the rice gently with a paddle or spatula. Serve promptly, or keep it covered briefly while you finish the stir-fry.
Pan-Seared Tofu with Ginger Scallion Sauce
About 2 servings with rice
Allow roughly 30 minutes; a smaller pan will need batches. Have any rice cooked before beginning. Stay at the stove while the tofu browns.
Large nonstick skillet, wide spatula, knife, board, small bowl, heatproof bowl and clean plate.
Ingredients
- 400 g regular firm or extra-firm tofu (about 14 oz), not silken
- 15 g fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
- 3 scallions, washed and finely sliced
- 3 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, divided
- 1 tablespoon Chinese light soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon water
- 1 teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar
- 1/4 teaspoon sugar, optional
- Freshly cooked rice, to serve
Method
Slice, dry and mix
Drain the tofu, cut into broad slices about 1 cm thick and blot visible moisture with a clean towel. Mince the ginger and slice the scallions. Mix the soy sauce, water, vinegar and optional sugar in the small bowl. Keep a separate heatproof bowl ready for the cooked aromatics.
Soften the ginger and scallions
Put 1 tablespoon oil and the ginger in the skillet over medium-low heat. Stir until fragrant, about 2 minutes, without browning it. Add the scallions and stir just until wilted. Turn off the burner and scrape the aromatics and oil into the heatproof bowl. Leave them there to cool while you cook the tofu.
Let a golden face form
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the empty skillet and warm over medium heat, without smoking. Lay the tofu in one uncrowded layer, away from you to limit splashes. Cook until the underside is golden and releases with a gentle nudge of the spatula; begin checking around 5 minutes. If the pan is too small, cook in batches, sharing the oil between them.
Turn without tearing
Slide the spatula fully beneath each piece before turning. Brown the second face, checking after a few minutes and lowering the heat if the edges darken too quickly. Stay with the pan. Move the browned tofu to the clean plate and turn off the burner after the last batch.
Spoon the sauce over at the table
Stir the soy-vinegar mixture into the cooled ginger and scallion oil in its bowl, not into the hot skillet. Spoon it over the tofu and serve promptly with freshly cooked rice.
Gai Lan with Oyster Sauce
About 2–3 side servings
Allow roughly 15–20 minutes, including bringing the water to a boil. Once the greens go in, stay at the pot; this is a short, attended cook.
Wide pot, tongs, colander, knife, peeler and serving platter.
Ingredients
- 450 g gai lan (Chinese broccoli), about 1 lb
- 2 liters water, for boiling
- 1 teaspoon fine table salt, for the cooking water
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 2 tablespoons oyster sauce, or less to taste
Method
Trim the woody parts
Wash the gai lan thoroughly. Cut away dry ends. On thick, mature stalks, peel the tough outer skin from the lower stem. Leave tender baby stalks whole; split unusually thick stalks lengthwise so their stems are closer in thickness to the others.
Get the water boiling
Bring the 2 liters water to a boil in the wide pot, leaving plenty of room above the water for the greens. Add the salt and oil. Set a colander and platter nearby before you add the gai lan.
Check a stem, not just a leaf
Lower the gai lan into the boiling water with tongs and gently submerge the leaves. Work in batches if crowded. Start checking after about a minute: the leaves should be wilted and a small knife should enter the thickest stem with slight resistance. Tender stalks may take only 1–2 minutes; larger ones can need longer. Keep watching and checking rather than leaving them to a timer.
Drain before dressing
Lift the cooked greens into the colander and let the water drain away. Cook any remaining batch, then turn off the burner. Arrange the gai lan on the platter and pour away any water that collects before adding sauce.
Add a narrow ribbon of sauce
Drizzle 1 tablespoon oyster sauce over the greens. Taste a cooled bite, then add up to the remaining tablespoon if wanted. Serve promptly while the stalks are hot.
Chinese Steamed Eggs with Scallions
About 2 side servings
Allow roughly 25 minutes. Bowl depth and the steamer affect cooking time; the 10-minute timer is a first check, not a guaranteed finish. Have any rice ready before starting.
Lidded steamer or pot with a stable steaming rack, shallow heatproof ceramic bowl about 16–18 cm (6–7 inches) wide and at least 500 ml capacity, foil, measuring jug, whisk, fine sieve, oven mitts and a food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 2 large eggs, measured after beating
- Warm water at about 45°C (113°F), twice the volume of the beaten eggs (usually about 200 ml), plus water for the steamer
- 1 small pinch fine salt
- 1 scallion, washed; green part thinly sliced for serving
- 2 teaspoons Chinese light soy sauce, for serving
- A few drops toasted sesame oil, optional
Method
Measure the eggs, then the water
Beat the eggs in the measuring jug until evenly mixed and note their volume. Measure twice that volume of warm water: 100 ml beaten egg needs 200 ml water. Stir the water and salt into the eggs gently. Wash hands, utensils and surfaces after contact with raw egg; slice the clean scallion greens with clean equipment and set them aside.
Strain into a shallow bowl
Pour the egg mixture through the sieve into the heatproof bowl and skim off surface foam. Keep the mixture shallow, no deeper than about 3 cm. Cover the bowl with foil, leaving space above the mixture, and make two small vent holes. The foil should not touch the eggs.
Set the bowl above the water
Fill the steamer according to its instructions, with enough water for the cook but below the rack and bowl. Bring the water to a boil. Using oven mitts, place the covered bowl securely on the rack, close the steamer lid and reduce the heat to a gentle, steady simmer. Keep the steamer from boiling dry.
Steam gently and check the center
Once gentle steam is established, start a 10-minute check timer. Stay nearby. At the check, open the lid away from your face and lift the foil carefully. The center should be set rather than liquid and reach 160°F (71°C) on a clean food thermometer, with the tip in the custard rather than against the bowl. If needed, replace the foil and lid and steam for another 2 minutes before checking again.
Finish with scallion and soy
Turn off the burner. Lift out the hot bowl with oven mitts, opening the cover away from your face. Add the soy sauce, scallion greens and optional sesame oil. Serve promptly with a spoon; the bowl and custard will be hot.
Oven-Roasted Lemongrass Chicken
About 3 servings with rice
Allow roughly 75 minutes including a 30-minute refrigerated marinade. Oven time varies with thigh size; begin checking after 20 minutes. Prepare any rice separately before serving.
Rimmed metal baking sheet, foil, covered food-safe bowl, knife, board, tongs, clean serving plate and instant-read food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 700 g boneless skinless chicken thighs (about 1 1/2 lb)
- 3 tablespoons very finely minced tender lemongrass core, from about 2 stalks
- 3 garlic cloves, finely minced
- 2 tablespoons fish sauce
- 1 tablespoon regular light soy sauce, not dark or sweet soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- Freshly cooked rice, to serve
Method
Make a fine aromatic coating
Wash and trim the lemongrass, peel away tough layers and use only the tender pale core. Slice across the fibers, then mince very finely and measure 3 tablespoons. Mix with the garlic, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, oil, lime juice and pepper. Add the chicken and coat it thoroughly. Do not wash raw chicken. Wash hands and clean utensils and surfaces after raw poultry contact.
Marinate in the refrigerator
Cover the bowl and refrigerate at 40°F (4°C) or below for 30 minutes. Keep it below ready-to-eat food. It can stay refrigerated for up to 24 hours if preparing ahead; do not leave it on the counter to marinate.
Heat the oven and spread out the thighs
Heat a conventional oven to 400°F (200°C), with a rack in the middle. Line the rimmed baking sheet with foil. Once the oven is hot, lift the thighs out with tongs and unfold them in one layer with gaps between pieces. Leave large puddles of marinade behind and discard the raw marinade. Put the tray in the oven; clean the raw-chicken tongs before using them again.
Roast, then check each thick center
Set a 20-minute first-check timer once the chicken is in the hot oven. Stay nearby. At the check, insert the thermometer into the thickest part of several thighs without touching the tray. Continue roasting in short intervals if any are below 165°F (74°C). If the surface darkens too quickly, loosely cover with foil while the centers finish.
Slice at the table
Turn off the oven and use oven mitts to remove the tray. Transfer the cooked thighs with clean utensils to a clean plate. Serve with rice and lime wedges. Keep raw marinade away from the finished chicken.
Canh Chua with Fish and Pineapple
About 3 servings with rice
Allow roughly 40 minutes. Use unsweetened tamarind pulp from a block, not a concentrated bottled paste. Have rice ready before the soup finishes; stay with the pot while the fish cooks.
3-litre saucepan, small heatproof bowl, fine sieve, knife, board, ladle and instant-read food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 450 g boneless firm white fish such as cod or catfish (about 1 lb), fully thawed if frozen
- 25 g unsweetened tamarind pulp from a pressed block
- 1 litre water, plus 100 ml hot water for extracting the tamarind
- 150 g peeled fresh pineapple, cut into small bite-sized pieces
- 250 g tomatoes, cored and cut into thick wedges
- 120 g okra, stems trimmed and pods cut into 2 cm pieces
- 75 g fresh mung bean sprouts, refrigerated until needed
- 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus up to 2 teaspoons to adjust
- 2 teaspoons sugar, plus up to 2 teaspoons to adjust
- 2 tablespoons chopped culinary rice paddy herb (ngò ôm) or Thai basil
- Freshly cooked rice, to serve
Method
Extract the tamarind
Cover the tamarind pulp with the 100 ml hot water in a heatproof bowl. Once cool enough to handle safely, press and stir it with a spoon until loosened, then push through a fine sieve. Keep the strained liquid; discard seeds and coarse fibers. Prepare all vegetables and wash the herbs. Rinse the sprouts under running water just before cooking; rinsing alone does not make raw sprouts safe.
Portion the fish separately
Check the fish for bones and cut into chunks about 4 cm wide. Keep refrigerated while you start the broth. Wash hands and clean the board, knife and surfaces after raw fish contact. Keep a clean ladle and serving bowls away from the raw-fish plate.
Build a light sour broth
Warm the oil in the saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant and lightly golden, not brown. Carefully add the litre of water, pineapple, 1 tablespoon fish sauce, 2 teaspoons sugar and half the strained tamarind liquid. Bring to a simmer. Add the okra and tomatoes and simmer gently until the okra is nearly tender, checking after about 4 minutes.
Lower the fish into the soup
Slide in the fish and bring the broth back to a gentle simmer. Add the sprouts and keep them submerged. Avoid vigorous stirring; move the pot gently if needed. Cook until the sprouts are thoroughly hot and softened and the thickest fish pieces reach 145°F (63°C). Begin checking the fish around 5 minutes, but continue until the temperature is reached. Do not use a rolling boil to hurry it.
Adjust the bowl of broth
Once the fish is cooked, turn the heat low and taste a cooled spoonful of broth. Add reserved tamarind a teaspoon at a time for more sourness, the extra sugar in small pinches if too tart, or the extra fish sauce a little at a time if underseasoned. You do not need to use every reserved amount. Turn off the burner, stir in the herbs and ladle gently into bowls. Serve promptly with rice.
Beef Japchae with Sweet Potato Noodles
About 3 main-course servings
Allow roughly 50–60 minutes for cutting, boiling and several short batches in the skillet. Use Korean sweet potato starch noodles, not rice vermicelli. Everything is cooked in sequence.
Saucepan, colander, large skillet, tongs, kitchen scissors, knife, board, mixing bowl, clean plate and a thin-tip food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 200 g dried Korean sweet potato starch noodles (dangmyeon), preferably thin round strands
- 200 g beef sirloin, sliced across the grain into thin strips
- 150 g fresh spinach, washed
- 1 medium carrot, about 100 g, cut into fine matchsticks
- 1 small onion, about 150 g, thinly sliced
- 100 g fresh shiitake mushrooms, tough stems removed and caps thinly sliced
- 3 tablespoons regular Korean or Japanese soy sauce, not soup soy sauce or dark soy sauce
- 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
- 2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, divided
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- Water for boiling, plus 2 tablespoons for loosening the noodles if needed
Method
Finish the cutting before the stove
Prepare the carrot, onion, mushrooms and spinach. Mix the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic and pepper in a bowl until the sugar is mostly dissolved. Slice the beef on a separate board, refrigerate it until its turn, and clean hands, knife and surfaces after raw meat contact. Keep the sauce separate from the raw beef.
Boil the dangmyeon
Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to their package until flexible and cooked through, stirring so strands separate. Drain and rinse briefly under cool running water. Drain well, snip into manageable lengths with clean scissors and toss in the mixing bowl with 2 tablespoons of the prepared sauce. Turn off the burner.
Wilt and drain the spinach
Bring fresh water to a boil in the same saucepan. Add the spinach and cook just until wilted. Drain, rinse briefly with cold water and, once safe to handle, squeeze out excess water with clean hands. Roughly chop and keep in the colander. Turn off this burner; the remaining cooking uses the skillet.
Cook the beef on its own
Warm 2 teaspoons neutral oil in the skillet over medium-high heat, without smoking. Add the beef in one uncrowded layer, using batches if needed. Turn and stir until cooked, checking the thickest strips with a thin-tip thermometer inserted from the side for at least 145°F (63°C). Transfer to a clean plate, leaving raw-meat utensils aside for washing. Turn off the burner.
Rest the cooked beef
Let the beef rest on its clean plate for at least 3 minutes after it reaches 145°F (63°C). Keep the skillet burner off during this rest.
Give the vegetables room
Warm another 2 teaspoons oil in the skillet over medium heat. Stir-fry the carrot and onion until tender but not limp, then move them to the noodle bowl. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and the mushrooms to the skillet. Cook until softened and their released moisture has mostly evaporated. Add the drained spinach and stir to warm it through.
Bring the strands and vegetables together
Add the noodles, carrot, onion, cooked beef and remaining sauce to the skillet. Toss gently over medium-low heat until the noodles are hot and evenly coated. If they stick in a tight clump, add the reserved 2 tablespoons water a little at a time and loosen with tongs; do not pull hard enough to break them. Work in two batches if the skillet is crowded.
Finish with sesame
Turn off the burner. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and transfer to a serving dish. Serve promptly while the noodles are warm and supple.
Teriyaki Salmon with a Light Soy Glaze
2 servings
Allow roughly 25 minutes. Choose two similarly thick fillets; thin tail pieces finish sooner. Have any rice or vegetables ready before starting the fish.
Lidded nonstick skillet, fish spatula, small bowl, clean plate, paper towels and instant-read food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 2 skin-on salmon fillets, 170–200 g each, roughly 2–3 cm thick, fully thawed if frozen
- 2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 2 tablespoons sake
- 2 teaspoons neutral cooking oil
- 2 tablespoons water, plus a little extra if the glaze needs loosening
- 1 sliced scallion and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, optional
- Cooked rice and vegetables, to serve
Method
Mix the sauce and dry the fish
Mix the soy sauce, mirin and sake in the small bowl. Check the salmon for pin bones and blot its surface dry with paper towels. Discard the towels and wash hands after raw fish contact. Keep a clean serving plate ready; do not use the raw-fish plate for the finished fillets.
Begin skin-side down
Warm the oil in the skillet over medium heat, without smoking. Lay in the salmon skin-side down, away from you to reduce splashes. Press gently with the spatula just long enough to keep the skin flat. Cook until the skin firms and releases, checking after about 3 minutes. Turn carefully and lower the heat to medium-low.
Finish the center before the glaze
Add the 2 tablespoons water carefully at the side of the skillet and cover. Stay at the stove; begin checking after 2 minutes. Lift the lid away from your face and check each fillet's thickest center for 145°F (63°C), inserting the thermometer from the side. Continue cooking gently and checking as needed, adding a little water if the pan becomes dry. Move each cooked fillet to the clean plate as it reaches temperature.
Reduce the sauce without overcooking the fish
With the fish out, lower the heat and pour the sauce into the skillet. Let it bubble gently, stirring, until lightly glossy and able to coat a spoon. Do not reduce it to a sticky candy-like syrup. If it thickens too far, loosen with water a teaspoon at a time. Turn off the burner.
Spoon on a thin coating
Spoon the hot glaze over the salmon. Add the optional scallion and sesame seeds, and serve promptly with the prepared rice and vegetables. A small amount of glaze is enough; the fish need not sit in a pool of sauce.
Pork Shoulder Adobo for a Slow Simmer
About 4 servings with rice
Allow roughly 1 1/2–2 hours, depending on the pork. Stay nearby during the braise and check the liquid every 10–15 minutes. Tenderness, not the clock, determines when shoulder is ready.
Heavy lidded saucepan or small Dutch oven, tongs, wooden spoon, knife, board, measuring jug, clean plate and food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 800 g boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of thick outer skin and cut into 4 cm cubes
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 8 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
- 80 ml plain cane vinegar or white vinegar labeled about 5% acidity, not seasoned vinegar
- 60 ml regular soy sauce, not dark or sweet soy sauce
- 350 ml water, plus hot water as needed during the braise
- 2 dried bay leaves
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
- 1 teaspoon brown sugar, optional
- Freshly cooked rice, to serve
Method
Cut the shoulder into even pieces
Prepare the garlic and measure the liquids. Cut the pork into roughly 4 cm cubes and blot excess moisture. Keep some internal fat, but remove thick skin and large hard pieces of outer fat. Clean hands, board and knife after raw pork contact.
Brown in a roomy pot
Warm the oil over medium heat. Brown the pork on a few faces, working in batches so the pieces sit in one layer. Move browned pieces to a plate that will be used only for the still-partly-raw pork. Lower the heat, add the garlic and stir briefly without burning it. Return all the pork to the pot and continue cooking immediately.
Bring the braising liquid together
Carefully add the vinegar, soy sauce, 350 ml water, bay leaves and cracked pepper. Scrape up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then lower to a gentle simmer and cover. The liquid should come partway up the meat; use a snug pot rather than an oversized shallow pan.
Keep a gentle simmer until tender
Stay nearby and check every 10–15 minutes, turning the pieces and making sure there is liquid beneath them. Add hot water in small amounts if it is reducing too quickly. Begin checking tenderness around 60 minutes; shoulder can need 90 minutes or longer. Continue until a fork enters easily and a piece yields when pressed. Check at least 145°F (63°C) in the thickest pieces; reaching that minimum alone does not mean shoulder is tender.
Stop reducing when the sauce tastes right
Once the pork is tender, uncover. If the sauce is watery, simmer gently until it lightly coats the meat, checking a cooled spoonful as it reduces. Stop before it becomes too salty; loosen with water if needed. Add the optional teaspoon of sugar only if you want to soften the sharpness. Remove both bay leaves, then turn off the burner.
Rest off the heat
Leave the cooked pork off the heat for at least 3 minutes before serving. Keep the pot on a stable heatproof surface with the burner off.
Serve a little sauce with each portion
Spoon the pork beside rice and add some of the concentrated sauce. Use clean serving utensils, not the plate or tongs that held partly cooked pork.
Roasted Barley Tea by the Pitcher
About 1 litre, or 4 small glasses
Allow roughly 15 minutes to brew, plus cooling and refrigeration if serving cold. This makes unsweetened tea. Barley contains gluten.
2-litre saucepan, fine-mesh strainer, heat-safe stainless-steel bowl, spoon, ice bath and a clean covered jug.
Ingredients
- 1 litre drinking water
- 1 1/2 tablespoons plain roasted barley grains sold for tea, not raw pearl barley or barley malt
Method
Bring the water to a boil
Measure the water into the saucepan and bring it to a full boil. Keep the handle turned inward.
Simmer the roasted grain
Add the barley carefully. Reduce the heat to keep a gentle bubble and simmer for about 5 minutes, staying at the stove. The liquid should turn amber and smell toasted. This is a starting strength, not a required darkness.
Remove the grain
Turn off the burner. Set the strainer securely over the heat-safe bowl and pour slowly, away from your hands. Discard the spent grains. Taste a small spoonful only after it has cooled enough; dilute an overly strong brew with a little drinking water.
Serve warm or cool promptly
Pour a warm serving into a heat-safe cup. For iced tea, set the metal bowl in an ice-water bath without letting bath water enter the tea. Stir with a clean spoon and replenish the ice as it melts. Transfer to the clean jug, cover and refrigerate promptly at 40°F (4°C) or below; do not leave a pot cooling on the counter for hours. Aim to finish this small batch within 24 hours. Pour servings into glasses rather than drinking from the jug.
Black Sesame Shortbread with a Sandy Crumb
About 12 cookies
Allow roughly 75 minutes including a 30-minute chill, plus complete cooling. Contains wheat, milk and sesame; egg-free dough is still not safe to eat raw.
Kitchen scale, mixing bowl, spatula, mortar or small spice grinder, rolling pin, baking parchment, 7.5 cm round cutter, large baking sheet (about 46 × 33 cm), wire rack and oven mitts.
Ingredients
- 113 g unsalted butter, softened but still cool, not melted
- 30 g powdered sugar, sifted
- 1/8 teaspoon fine salt
- 125 g all-purpose flour
- 20 g toasted black sesame seeds, divided
Method
Crush half the sesame
Grind 10 g of the toasted seeds to coarse crumbs, stopping before they turn into a paste. Leave the other 10 g whole.
Bring the dough together
Stir the butter, powdered sugar and salt until smooth, not fluffy. Fold in the flour and both portions of sesame just until a clump holds together when pressed. Scrape the bowl so no dry pockets remain. Do not taste the raw dough; wash hands and flour-dusted equipment after handling.
Roll between parchment
Press the dough into a flat disc, sandwich it between two sheets of baking parchment and roll to an even 6 mm (1/4 inch). Move the covered sheet of dough onto a tray that fits in the refrigerator.
Chill until firm
Refrigerate the covered dough for at least 30 minutes. It should lift from the parchment without smearing; if it is still soft, keep chilling.
Heat the oven and cut rounds
Heat a conventional oven to 350°F (175°C) with a middle rack. Peel away the top parchment and cut 7.5 cm (3 inch) rounds. Place them on the cool parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving about 2 cm between cookies. Press the scraps together, reroll to the same thickness and cut the remainder. Keep the cut cookies refrigerated until the oven is ready.
Watch for pale golden edges
Put the tray in the fully heated oven. Start checking at 10 minutes; the bake will usually take about 10–14 minutes. The centers should look set rather than glossy-wet and the edges should be lightly golden. Continue in short intervals if needed. The sesame makes the dough grey, so do not wait for the entire top to turn brown.
Let the crumb settle
Turn off the oven and use oven mitts to remove the tray. Leave the cookies on it for about 5 minutes, then lift them gently to a rack. Let them cool completely before serving or sealing in a container.
Smashed Cucumbers with Garlic and Black Vinegar
About 4 side servings
Allow roughly 35 minutes, including a 20-minute refrigerated rest. Dress the cucumbers shortly before serving. Contains soy and sesame; check vinegar and soy-sauce labels for wheat.
Cutting board, rolling pin, knife, colander set over a bowl, refrigerator-safe cover, small bowl and serving bowl.
Ingredients
- 500 g thin-skinned Persian or English cucumbers
- 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
- 2 small garlic cloves, finely minced
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar, such as Chinkiang-style vinegar
- 2 teaspoons Chinese light soy sauce
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Method
Crack, then cut
Scrub the cucumbers under running water and dry them. Trim the ends. On a stable board, press and tap gently with a rolling pin until the cucumbers split lengthwise. Stop before they become pulp. Cut the cracked lengths into bite-size chunks, about 3 cm across.
Salt the pieces
Toss the cucumber with the fine salt. Set the colander over a bowl, add the cucumber and cover. Place it in the refrigerator at 40°F (4°C) or below.
Let the cucumber drain
Leave the covered cucumber in the refrigerator for 20 minutes so released water can collect underneath.
Stir the dressing
Mix the garlic, black vinegar, light soy sauce, sesame oil and sugar in the small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Discard the collected cucumber liquid, then shake excess moisture from the colander gently; do not squeeze the cucumber into a soft mass.
Toss and serve cold
Toss the drained cucumber with the dressing and sesame seeds. Taste a piece before adding any extra salt. Serve promptly, lifting the pieces out of excess dressing if liquid pools in the bowl. Keep any portion you are not serving refrigerated.
Curry Udon with Mushrooms and Carrots
2 generous noodle bowls
Allow roughly 35–45 minutes. Prepare the broth first, then cook the noodles. Japanese curry roux varies in salt, heat and ingredients; check for meat or fish ingredients if avoiding them. Udon and most roux contain wheat.
Large saucepan for the broth, separate noodle pot, colander, ladle, heat-safe small bowl, knife, board and two deep serving bowls.
Ingredients
- 400–500 g frozen udon, about 2 portions, plus water for boiling according to the packet
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 150 g onion, thinly sliced
- 200 g brown button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced about 5 mm thick
- 75 g carrot, cut into thin matchsticks
- 750 ml unsalted vegetable broth or vegetable dashi, plus a little water to loosen if needed
- 50 g Japanese curry roux, chopped; choose a mild or hot version to suit you
- 1–2 teaspoons soy sauce, only as needed after tasting
- 1 scallion, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced
Method
Prepare everything before heating the pan
Slice the onion and mushrooms, cut the carrot finely, chop the roux and slice the scallion. Measure the broth. Read the roux's cooking directions and the udon's boiling directions; leave the noodles frozen until their turn.
Soften the vegetables
Heat the oil in the broth saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and stir until it starts to soften. Add the mushrooms and carrot. Cook, stirring regularly, until the mushrooms release moisture and shrink, roughly 6–8 minutes altogether. Lower the heat if the onion begins to scorch.
Simmer until the carrot is tender
Pour in the broth carefully. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until a carrot matchstick bends and tastes tender, checking after about 5 minutes. Stay at the stove and adjust the heat to prevent a hard boil.
Dissolve the curry roux
Turn off the heat. Ladle some hot broth into the heat-safe small bowl, add the chopped roux and stir until smooth. Return it to the saucepan. Bring back to a gentle simmer, stirring along the bottom, and cook for the roux packet's finishing time, commonly about 5 minutes. The broth should coat a spoon lightly but still pour easily; stir in small splashes of water if it becomes too thick. Taste a cooled spoonful, then add soy sauce only if it needs salt. Turn off the burner and cover the saucepan.
Cook the udon separately
Use the now-free burner to bring the noodle pot's water to a boil. Add the frozen udon and cook for the packet's time, easing the strands apart as they loosen rather than pulling at the frozen block. Turn off the burner and drain carefully. Divide the noodles between two deep bowls.
Bring the broth back to the bowls
Put the broth saucepan back on the burner. Uncover and return to a gentle simmer, stirring so the thickened broth does not catch. Add a splash of water if needed. Turn off the heat, then ladle the hot broth and vegetables over the noodles.
Finish with scallion
Scatter the scallion over both bowls and serve straight away with a spoon as well as chopsticks or a fork. The curry broth is hot and can cling to the noodles, so let each lifted mouthful cool before eating.
Scallion Oil Noodles with Crisp Green Strands
2 noodle bowls
Allow roughly 25 minutes and stay near the skillet while the scallions fry. The sauce is concentrated, so dress the noodles gradually. Contains soy and wheat.
Medium pot, colander, 10-inch skillet, tongs or chopsticks, small bowl and clean plate.
Ingredients
- 300 g fresh Chinese white wheat noodles or 250 g dried wheat noodles, plus water for boiling
- 100 g scallions, washed, thoroughly dried and cut into 5 cm (2 inch) lengths; split thick white pieces lengthwise
- 80 ml neutral cooking oil (1/3 cup)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Chinese light soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon Chinese dark soy sauce
- 2 teaspoons sugar
Method
Dry and divide the scallions
Make sure the washed scallions are dry, then cut and split them as described. Stir the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce and sugar together in the small bowl. Set a clean plate beside the skillet for the fried scallions.
Fry the scallions slowly
Heat the oil in the skillet over medium-low. Add the scallion whites first and cook for 2 minutes, then add the greens. Fry, turning regularly, until the pieces are wilted, deeply browned at the edges and partly crisp, usually 8–12 minutes more. Lower the heat if they blacken. Lift the scallions onto the clean plate.
Bubble the soy mixture gently
Reduce the heat to low. Carefully pour the soy-and-sugar mixture into the scallion oil; it may foam. Stir for 1–2 minutes, just until the sugar dissolves and the sauce bubbles gently. Turn off the heat.
Cook and drain the noodles
Boil the noodles according to their package until tender with a little bite. Turn off the burner and drain thoroughly; do not rinse unless the package directs it.
Dress, taste and finish
Return the skillet to low heat and add the drained noodles. Start with about two-thirds of the scallion sauce and toss until glossy. Taste a cooled strand before adding more. Turn off the burner, fold in the fried scallions and divide between two bowls.
One-Pan Kimchi Pancake with Crisp Edges
One 10-inch pancake, about 2–4 snack portions
Allow roughly 20 minutes and serve immediately for the crispest edge. Kimchi may contain fish, shellfish or other allergens; flour contains wheat.
Medium mixing bowl, spoon, 10-inch nonstick skillet, wide spatula, plate and knife or kitchen scissors.
Ingredients
- 225 g well-fermented napa cabbage kimchi, chopped, plus 2 tablespoons brine from the same container
- 3 scallions, washed, trimmed and cut into 5 cm (2 inch) pieces
- 65 g all-purpose flour (1/2 cup, spooned and leveled)
- 120 ml cold water (1/2 cup)
- 1/2 teaspoon sugar
- 4 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, divided
Method
Make a loose, chunky batter
Combine the chopped kimchi and brine, scallions, flour, cold water and sugar. Stir until no dry flour remains; do not blend the kimchi smooth. The batter should spread from a spoon but still hold cabbage pieces.
Spread it thinly
Heat the nonstick skillet over medium. Add 2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat. Scrape in the batter and immediately spread it into a thin, even 10-inch round, nudging kimchi pieces away from thick piles.
Wait for a firm golden base
Cook without disturbing the pancake until the underside is golden brown and the top has lost most of its wet shine, about 3–5 minutes. Adjust the heat if the rim darkens before the center sets.
Turn and send oil underneath
Slide the wide spatula under the center and flip carefully. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons oil around the edge, lift the pancake slightly and tilt the skillet so the oil runs underneath. Cook until the second side is crisp and golden, about 3–5 minutes; turn once more for 30 seconds if the first side needs refreshing.
Rest briefly, then cut
Slide the pancake onto a plate and leave it uncovered for 1 minute so trapped steam can escape. Cut into wedges with a knife or kitchen scissors and serve hot.
Miso Butter Corn Udon in One Bowl
2 noodle bowls
Allow roughly 20 minutes. Reserve hot noodle water before draining. Contains wheat, soy, milk and sesame; miso with added dashi may also contain fish.
Medium pot, colander, 10-inch skillet, heatproof cup, spoon, tongs and two bowls.
Ingredients
- 400–500 g frozen udon, about 2 portions, plus water for boiling
- 200 g corn kernels, thawed and drained if frozen or canned
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
- 1 1/2 tablespoons white or awase miso
- 2 scallions, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Method
Drain the corn and slice the scallions
Pat very wet corn dry and slice the scallions. Put the miso in the heatproof cup. Keep the udon frozen until the water is boiling.
Cook the udon and save a little water
Boil the udon for the package time, easing the strands apart as they loosen. Before draining, scoop 60 ml (1/4 cup) hot noodle water into the cup with the miso and stir smooth. Turn off the burner and drain the udon.
Give the corn a few golden spots
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet over medium. Add the corn in a single layer. Cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring only occasionally, until hot and lightly golden in places.
Coat the noodles over low heat
Reduce the heat to low. Add the drained udon, miso mixture and remaining tablespoon of butter. Toss until the butter melts and the liquid becomes a glossy coating. Add another spoonful of water only if the strands remain tight. Do not boil the miso sauce hard.
Finish with scallion and sesame
Turn off the burner. Fold in most of the scallions and sesame, divide between two bowls, and scatter the rest on top. Serve immediately while the udon is loose and hot.
Sayote with Pork and Fish Sauce
About 4 servings with rice
Allow roughly 30 minutes. Chayote sap can feel sticky during peeling; gloves can make prep easier. Ground pork must reach 160°F (71°C). Fish sauce contains fish.
Cutting board, vegetable peeler, knife, large skillet with lid, spoon or spatula and food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 2 medium chayote (sayote), about 700 g total, washed, peeled, seeded and cut into thin half-moons
- 250 g ground pork
- 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1–1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, divided
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
Method
Prepare the sayote
Wash the whole chayote under running water, then peel, halve and remove the seed. Cut into thin, even half-moons. Slice the onion and chop the garlic. Wash hands, the knife and the board after handling any sticky sap.
Brown the pork in crumbles
Heat the oil in the skillet over medium-high. Spread in the ground pork and leave it briefly to brown, then break it into small crumbles. Cook until no raw pink patches remain, about 4–6 minutes; the temperature check comes before serving.
Soften the onion and garlic
Add the onion and cook until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Lower the heat if the garlic colors quickly.
Steam the sayote in its own moisture
Add the sayote and 1 tablespoon fish sauce. Toss well, then add 2 tablespoons water and cover. Cook over medium heat, opening to stir every few minutes, until the thickest slice is tender with a little bite, usually 7–10 minutes. If the skillet dries first, add water one tablespoon at a time.
Check the pork and finish the seasoning
Uncover and let excess liquid evaporate until the sayote is lightly glazed. Check several pork crumbles with a food thermometer; they must reach 160°F (71°C). Taste a cooled sayote slice, then add the remaining fish sauce only if needed. Turn off the burner and serve with rice.
Ginger Fish-Sauce Chicken with a Glossy Braise
About 4 servings with rice
Allow roughly 35 minutes. Keep raw-chicken tools separate, and cook every piece to 165°F (74°C). Fish sauce contains fish.
Cutting board, knife, wide skillet with lid, tongs or spatula, measuring cup and food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 680 g boneless skinless chicken thighs (1 1/2 lb), cut into 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) pieces
- 40 g fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Method
Cut the chicken and divide the ginger
Cut the chicken into similar pieces and the ginger into thin matchsticks. Divide the ginger in half. Stir the fish sauce and sugar with 120 ml (1/2 cup) water until the sugar begins to dissolve. Wash hands and keep raw-chicken tools away from cooked food.
Brown the chicken in room to spare
Heat the oil in the wide skillet over medium-high. Add the chicken in one uncrowded layer, working in two batches if needed. Brown for 2–3 minutes per side; it will not yet be cooked through. Return all the chicken to the skillet.
Wake up half the ginger
Add half the ginger and stir for about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Pour in the fish-sauce mixture carefully and scrape up the browned bits from the skillet.
Braise with the lid on
Add the remaining ginger and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 8 minutes, opening once to turn the pieces. Keep a gentle simmer rather than a hard boil.
Reduce to a gloss and check 165°F
Uncover and return to medium heat. Turn the chicken as the liquid reduces to a light glaze, about 3–6 minutes. Check the thickest pieces with a clean thermometer; they must reach 165°F (74°C). Turn off the burner, add the black pepper and let the chicken stand for 3 minutes before serving.
Coconut Curry Pumpkin Soup with a Lime Finish
About 4 bowls
Allow roughly 35 minutes. Red curry pastes differ in heat, salt and ingredients; check the label for shrimp, fish and other allergens before choosing one.
Large deep saucepan or Dutch oven, knife, cutting board, wooden spoon, ladle and immersion blender; use a heat-safe countertop blender only according to its hot-liquid directions.
Ingredients
- 900 g peeled, seeded kabocha or butternut squash, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) pieces
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 1–2 tablespoons Thai red curry paste, according to its heat
- 400 ml full-fat unsweetened coconut milk, stirred well
- 500 ml low-sodium vegetable broth (2 cups)
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, plus more only after tasting
Method
Cut the squash evenly
Wash the whole squash before cutting. Peel, seed and cut it into even 2.5 cm pieces. Stir the coconut milk until the thick cream and thinner liquid are combined. Begin with 1 tablespoon curry paste if the brand is unfamiliar.
Fry the curry paste
Heat the oil in the deep saucepan over medium. Add the curry paste and stir constantly for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant. Lower the heat immediately if it starts to catch on the bottom.
Simmer until a fork slips through
Add the pumpkin, coconut milk and broth. Stir, bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook uncovered, stirring along the bottom occasionally, until a fork passes through the thickest piece without resistance, usually 15–20 minutes. Avoid a hard boil, which can spit.
Blend below the surface
Turn off the burner. Keep an immersion blender head submerged and blend until smooth. If using a countertop blender, work in small batches and follow its instructions for hot liquids. Return the soup to the saucepan only if it needs gentle reheating.
Add lime after the heat is off
Stir in 1 tablespoon lime juice. Taste a cooled spoonful before adding more curry paste or lime. If the soup is thicker than you want, stir in hot broth or water a little at a time. Ladle into bowls and serve hot.
Garlic Chive and Egg Stir-Fry
About 2 servings with rice, or 4 small side servings
Allow roughly 20 minutes, including washing and trimming. This is an estimate. Have cooked rice or other accompaniments ready before heating the skillet. Contains egg.
Cutting board, knife, mixing bowl, fork, 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet, flexible spatula, clean plate and an instant-read food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 150 g green garlic chives, washed, dried and tough ends trimmed
- 4 large eggs
- 1 1/2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, divided
- 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus a little more to taste
Method
Cut the chives and beat the eggs
Cut the prepared chives into 2 cm (3/4 inch) lengths. Beat the eggs with the salt until the whites and yolks combine. Wash hands and clean anything that touched raw egg.
Fold the eggs into curds
Warm one third of the oil in the skillet over medium-low heat. Add the eggs. As the underside sets, slowly draw the spatula across the pan, folding set egg over itself. When no liquid egg remains, transfer to the clean plate. Keep the raw-egg bowl separate.
Soften the chives
Add the remaining oil and raise the heat to medium. Add the chives and stir until they bend easily and lose their raw stiffness. Taste a cooled piece; keep cooking if it is still tough. Lower the heat if the edges begin to scorch.
Return the eggs and check the center
Fold the eggs back into the chives over medium-low heat. Cook until the mixture is hot throughout and reaches 160°F (71°C), checking several thick clusters with the thermometer without touching the skillet. There should be no runny egg. Add a little salt only after tasting a cooled, fully cooked bite.
Move dinner out of the pan
Turn off the burner and transfer to a serving plate immediately. Serve with your prepared accompaniments.
Dubu Jorim Korean Braised Tofu
About 4 side servings with rice
Allow roughly 30 minutes; this is an estimate, and extra batches take longer. Have rice ready separately. Contains soy and sesame; soy sauce may contain wheat.
Cutting board, knife, clean towel, small bowl, measuring spoons, 12-inch nonstick skillet, broad spatula, spoon and a plate for batches.
Ingredients
- 500 g firm block tofu, drained; not silken tofu
- 1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
- 3 tablespoons regular soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons water, plus small splashes as needed
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 teaspoons gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), or 1 teaspoon for less heat
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Method
Slice and dry the tofu
Cut the tofu into broad slices about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) thick. Blot both faces with the clean towel. Keep the slices intact.
Mix the braising sauce
Stir together the soy sauce, measured water, sugar, gochugaru, garlic and half the scallions. Keep the remaining scallions and both sesame ingredients for finishing.
Brown both faces
Warm the neutral oil over medium heat. Lay the tofu in a single layer, working in batches if needed and dividing the oil between batches. Leave each face until lightly golden and it releases under the spatula, then turn gently. Lower the heat if it scorches.
Braise and spoon over the sauce
Return all tofu to the skillet, overlapping slightly if necessary. Lower to medium-low and pour in the stirred sauce. Keep it gently bubbling, spooning sauce over the slices and turning them carefully once. Stay at the pan. When the tofu is hot throughout and coated, leave a little spoonable liquid; add a splash of water if the pan dries before then.
Finish with sesame and scallions
Turn off the burner. Drizzle over the toasted sesame oil and scatter on the sesame seeds and reserved scallions. Spoon the tofu and sauce into a serving dish alongside your prepared rice.
Miso Soup with Tofu and Wakame
4 small bowls
Allow roughly 20 minutes when the dashi is ready. Standard awase dashi contains dried bonito fish; use a verified kombu or kombu-shiitake dashi for a vegetarian soup. Miso varies in saltiness, so begin with less if needed and adjust before serving.
Medium saucepan, small bowl, liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons, cutting board, knife, fine-mesh sieve or ladle, and spoon.
Ingredients
- 4 cups prepared dashi, fish-based or verified vegetarian
- 1 tablespoon dried wakame
- 3 to 4 tablespoons miso paste, to taste
- 200 g soft or silken tofu, cut into small cubes
- 1 scallion, trimmed and thinly sliced
Method
Rehydrate the wakame
Cover the dried wakame with cool water in the small bowl. When the pieces have expanded and softened, drain them well. They grow substantially, so do not add more simply because the dry tablespoon looks small.
Warm the dashi
Bring the dashi to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then lower the heat. Do not let the saucepan boil hard.
Dissolve the miso
Put 3 tablespoons miso in the sieve or ladle. Hold it partly in the hot dashi and stir in spoonfuls of broth until the paste dissolves into the pan. Taste carefully; dissolve in the final tablespoon only if the soup needs it. Keep the heat low and avoid a hard boil.
Add tofu and wakame
Slide in the tofu and drained wakame. Heat gently until the tofu is hot throughout and the soup is steaming, moving the pieces as little as possible so the tofu stays intact. Turn off the burner before the soup boils hard.
Finish each bowl
Divide the soup among four small bowls and scatter over the sliced scallion. Serve promptly.
Oyakodon Chicken and Egg Rice Bowls
2 rice bowls
Allow roughly 30 minutes once the rice is cooked. This food-safety-forward version cooks the egg fully rather than leaving it runny. Standard dashi may contain fish; soy sauce may contain wheat.
Cutting board, chef's knife, two bowls, liquid measuring cup, fork or chopsticks, 10-inch skillet with lid, spoon, spatula, and clean instant-read food thermometer.
Ingredients
- 3 cups hot cooked Japanese short-grain rice, divided
- 280 g (10 oz) boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3/4-inch (2 cm) pieces
- 1/2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup prepared dashi
- 2 tablespoons regular soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- 3 large eggs
- 4 sprigs mitsuba, cut into short lengths; or 1 sliced scallion
Method
Prepare separate raw and ready-to-eat work
Put the cooked rice into two serving bowls and keep it away from the raw chicken area. Slice the onion and mitsuba first on the clean board. Cut the chicken last, then wash the board, knife, hands and any touched surfaces before continuing.
Build the simmering broth
Stir the dashi, soy sauce, mirin and sugar together in the skillet. Add the onion and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cook until the onion begins to soften.
Cook the chicken safely
Spread the chicken pieces through the simmering broth. Turn them as they lose their raw color and keep the liquid gently bubbling. Check several of the largest pieces with a clean thermometer; continue until every checked piece reaches 165°F (74°C). Wash the probe after it touches the chicken.
Set the egg
Beat the eggs just enough to combine. Pour them evenly over the chicken and onion, lower the heat, and cover. Cook until no liquid egg remains and the center of the egg-and-chicken mixture reaches 160°F (71°C).
Move the topping onto rice
Turn off the burner. Divide the chicken, onion, egg and as much pan broth as you like between the rice bowls. Finish with the mitsuba or scallion and serve immediately.
Gyeran Mari with Scallions
3 to 4 side servings
Allow roughly 20 minutes. Keep the heat medium-low and make each layer thin enough to roll. This version uses only scallions and cooks the egg to 160°F (71°C) rather than leaving a liquid center.
Medium bowl, fork or whisk, 10-inch nonstick skillet, small heatproof bowl, pastry brush or folded paper towel held with tongs, broad spatula, clean instant-read thermometer, cutting board, and knife.
Ingredients
- 4 large eggs
- 2 scallions, trimmed and very finely sliced
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- Pinch of ground black pepper
- 2 teaspoons neutral cooking oil, divided as needed
Method
Make a pourable egg mixture
Beat the eggs until the whites and yolks are fully combined with no long strands of white. Stir in the finely sliced scallions, salt and pepper. Pour the oil into the small heatproof bowl so you can apply only a thin film between layers.
Set the first thin layer
Heat the skillet over medium, then lower it to medium-low. Brush on a thin film of oil. Pour in about one quarter of the egg mixture and tilt the skillet into an even layer. When the surface is mostly set and no longer sloshes, fold one edge over itself with the spatula and continue rolling into a loose log.
Add and roll the remaining layers
Move the roll to one side. Brush the exposed skillet lightly with oil and pour in another quarter of the egg, lifting the existing roll so new egg runs beneath its edge. When the new layer is mostly set, roll the log back across it. Repeat with the remaining mixture, lowering the heat if the bottom browns before the top sets.
Confirm the center is cooked
Turn the roll seam-side down and gently turn it to cook every face. Check through the thickest part with a clean thermometer. Keep turning over medium-low heat until the center reaches 160°F (71°C) and no liquid egg escapes. Turn off the burner.
Rest briefly and slice
Move the roll to the clean cutting board and let it firm for a few minutes. Slice crosswise with a clean knife. If a seam opens, set the pieces cut-side up and serve them as they are; the layers do not need to look identical.
Minari Muchim Seasoned Greens
About 4 small side servings
Allow roughly 20 minutes. Buy correctly identified minari from a food market; do not gather an unfamiliar wild plant. Squeezing out excess water keeps the dressing from becoming diluted.
Large bowl, cutting board, knife, large pot, tongs, colander, clean kitchen towel or paper towels, measuring spoons, small bowl, and serving bowl.
Ingredients
- 225 g (8 oz) food-market minari, roots and damaged leaves removed
- 1 1/2 teaspoons regular soy sauce
- 1 small garlic clove, minced
- 1 scallion, trimmed and finely chopped
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds, lightly crushed
Method
Trim and wash the minari
Discard roots, wilted leaves and damaged tissue. Rinse the stems and leaves thoroughly under plain running water, separating the bunch so grit can escape. Do not use soap or produce wash.
Blanch the greens briefly
Bring a large pot of water to a full boil. Add the minari and press it beneath the water with tongs. Blanch just until the stems turn vivid and become flexible, about 30 to 60 seconds, then turn off the burner and lift the greens into the colander.
Cool and remove excess water
Rinse the minari under cold running water until cool. Drain, gather it gently, and squeeze out excess water without crushing the stems. Blot if it still drips, then cut it into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths.
Mix the seasoning
Stir the soy sauce, garlic, scallion, toasted sesame oil and crushed sesame seeds together in the small bowl.
Season and serve
Loosen the drained minari in the serving bowl. Add the seasoning and toss gently until the stems and leaves are evenly coated. Serve in small portions with rice and other dishes.