Syngonium Care: The Arrowhead Plant That Changes Shape

Syngonium (commonly called arrowhead plant, arrowhead vine, or nephthytis) is one of the easiest, most forgiving, and most adaptable houseplants you can grow. What makes Syngonium especially interesting is its dramatic transformation as it matures – young plants have compact, arrow-shaped leaves (hence the name) and grow upright in a neat clump. As they mature over 1-2 years, the leaves develop deep lobes (splitting into 3, 5, or even 7 segments) and the plant transitions from compact and upright to long, trailing, or climbing vines.

This shape-shifting growth habit means you can control how the plant looks by pruning. Keep it pruned short and it stays compact and bushy with arrow-shaped leaves. Let it grow and it becomes a trailing vine with lobed leaves. Give it a moss pole or trellis and it climbs with increasingly larger, more deeply lobed leaves.

Why Syngonium is perfect for beginners:

Extremely forgiving (tolerates missed waterings, medium to bright light, normal household humidity)
Fast-growing (visibly grows new leaves weekly in spring/summer)
Easy to propagate (stem cuttings root in water within 2-3 weeks with 90%+ success rate)
Inexpensive (typically $5-15 for a 4-6 inch pot)
Comes in dozens of colors (green, pink, white, cream, variegated combinations)
Adapts to different spaces (stays compact if pruned, trails if left alone, climbs if given support)

Available varieties:

Green varieties (classic solid green, most tolerant of low light)
Variegated varieties (White Butterfly, Confetti, Maria Allusion – green and white/cream)
Pink varieties (Pink Splash, Neon Robusta, Pink Princess – pink and green, need brighter light)
Rare varieties (Strawberry Cream, Batik, Three Kings – more expensive, similar care)

If you’re new to houseplants or have killed everything else, start with a green Syngonium. If you want something more colorful and have bright indirect light, try Pink Splash or White Butterfly.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (tolerates medium light)
Water: When top 2 inches of soil are dry
Humidity: Normal household humidity is fine
Growth habit: Compact when young, trailing or climbing when mature
Biggest mistake: Overwatering

Light

Syngonium does best in bright, indirect light but is one of the most light-tolerant houseplants – it survives (though doesn’t thrive) in medium to even low light. This makes it perfect for offices, north-facing windows, or rooms without much natural light.

Best light:

East-facing window (bright morning sun, indirect afternoon light)
2-4 feet back from a south or west window (bright but filtered)
North-facing window works fine (growth will be slower but plant will be healthy)

Light requirements by variety:

Green Syngonium: Tolerates medium to low light (most forgiving)
Variegated Syngonium (White Butterfly, Confetti): Needs bright indirect light (variegation fades in low light)
Pink Syngonium (Pink Splash, Neon Robusta): Needs bright indirect light (pink fades to green in low light)

Signs of too little light:

Leggy growth (long stems with widely spaced leaves, leaning toward light)
Variegation fades (white/pink areas turn green)
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf per month in growing season)
Smaller leaves than normal

Signs of too much light:

Faded, washed-out appearance (colors look pale)
Brown, crispy edges (direct sun scorch)
Leaves curl inward (protecting from intense light)

Pro tip: If your Syngonium is getting leggy in medium/low light, prune it back to encourage bushier growth. Move it closer to a window if possible, but even in low light, regular pruning keeps it looking full rather than sparse and stretched.

Direct sun will scorch the leaves (brown crispy patches), but brief morning sun is usually fine. Syngonium is much more forgiving of low light than high light.

Watering

Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Syngonium is very forgiving – it can handle occasional underwatering (droops but bounces back quickly) and brief periods of overwatering better than most houseplants. This makes it ideal for beginners who are still learning watering schedules.

How to water:

Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil (should feel dry at that depth)
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Let the pot drain completely (don’t let it sit in standing water)
Empty the saucer after 15-20 minutes

Typical schedule:

Spring and summer (growing season): Every 5 to 7 days
Fall and winter (dormant season): Every 10 to 14 days
Adjust based on conditions (more light = faster drying, larger plant = more water use, smaller pot = faster drying)

Critical: The schedule is a guideline only. Always check the soil rather than watering on a fixed day. Pot size, soil mix, light levels, humidity, and temperature all affect how quickly soil dries.

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves drooping dramatically (the whole plant looks sad)
Lower leaves turning yellow and dropping
Soil pulling away from pot edges (hydrophobic soil)
Crispy brown tips or edges

Good news: Underwatered Syngonium bounces back quickly. Water thoroughly and within 2-4 hours, the leaves perk up and the plant looks normal again. This resilience makes Syngonium very forgiving of missed waterings.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially multiple leaves yellowing at once)
Mushy stems
Soil stays wet for more than 7 days
Soil smells sour or moldy
Root rot (roots are dark, mushy, smelly)

Important: Syngonium prefers to dry out slightly between waterings. It’s in the Araceae family (like pothos and philodendron) and stores some water in its stems, so it handles underwatering better than overwatering. When in doubt, wait another day before watering.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining soil.

Best soil:

Standard potting mix with perlite (2:1 ratio)

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Hanging basket or pot with room to trail

Temperature and Humidity

Syngonium is not fussy.

Temperature: 60 to 85 F
Humidity: Normal household humidity (40 to 60 percent) is fine

Higher humidity encourages faster growth but is not required.

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use balanced liquid fertilizer (diluted to half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Pruning (How to Control the Shape)

Syngonium grows fast – in ideal conditions, you can get 6-12 inches of new growth per month in spring/summer. Without pruning, it becomes leggy and sparse (long vines with leaves only at the ends). Regular pruning keeps it full, bushy, and attractive. Pruning also controls the leaf shape – frequent pruning encourages compact growth with arrow-shaped leaves, while unpruned vines develop lobed leaves.

How to prune for compact, bushy growth:

Identify leggy stems (long stems with widely spaced leaves)
Cut just above a node (the bump on the stem where leaves attach – this is where new growth emerges)
Cut back to desired length (can cut back 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant at once without harm)
New growth emerges from the node below the cut (2-4 new shoots often appear from one cut, making the plant bushier)
Repeat every 2-3 months during growing season (spring/summer) to maintain compact shape

How to prune for trailing growth:

Let the plant grow naturally (minimal pruning)
Only remove dead or damaged leaves
Train vines along a shelf edge, bookcase, or hanging basket
Leaves will develop lobes (3-5 segments) as vines mature

How to encourage climbing growth:

Provide a moss pole, trellis, or stake
Tie or pin vines to the support as they grow
Leaves will become progressively larger and more deeply lobed when climbing
Mature climbing leaves can be 2-3x the size of juvenile arrow-shaped leaves

What to do with cuttings:

Propagate them! Syngonium cuttings root easily in water (see propagation section)
Share with friends, create new plants for other rooms, or compost them

When to prune:

Anytime during growing season (spring/summer – plant recovers quickly)
Avoid heavy pruning in fall/winter (plant is dormant and recovery is slow)
Light maintenance pruning (removing dead leaves) is fine year-round

Pro tip: If your Syngonium has gotten extremely leggy and you don’t want to propagate, you can cut it back severely (leaving just 4-6 inches of stem) and it will regrow from the nodes. This is called “hard pruning” or “rejuvenation pruning” and works well for neglected Syngoniums that are mostly bare stems.

Propagating Syngonium (One of the Easiest Plants to Propagate)

Syngonium is extremely easy to propagate from stem cuttings – success rate is 90%+ and roots develop quickly. This is perfect for beginners learning propagation or for multiplying your collection.

What you need:

Healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves attach)
At least 1-2 leaves (more is better but not required)
Clean scissors or pruners

Water propagation method (easiest, most visual):

Cut a stem 4-6 inches long with at least one node and 2-3 leaves
Remove lower leaves if they would sit below water (leave 1-2 leaves above)
Place in water (jar, glass, or vase – node must be submerged)
Place in bright, indirect light (not direct sun)
Change water weekly (prevents bacterial growth)
Roots appear in 1-2 weeks (white roots emerging from the node)
Pot in soil when roots are 2-3 inches long (usually 3-4 weeks)
Keep soil moist for first 2 weeks after potting (helps transition from water to soil)

Success rate: 95%+ with water propagation. It’s nearly foolproof.

Soil propagation method (faster transition, less transplant shock):

Cut a stem 4-6 inches long with at least one node and 2-3 leaves
Remove lower leaves (bottom 2 inches of stem should be bare)
Optional: Dip in rooting hormone (increases success rate to near 100%)
Stick in moist potting soil (bury the node 1-2 inches deep)
Water lightly to settle soil
Cover with a plastic bag to trap humidity (optional but helpful – increases success rate)
Place in bright, indirect light
Keep soil moist (not soggy) for 3-4 weeks
Gently tug after 3 weeks – if it resists, roots have formed
Remove plastic bag gradually once roots are established

Success rate: 85-90% with soil propagation, 95%+ with rooting hormone.

Pro tips:

Take multiple cuttings (propagate 3-5 at once for a full, bushy plant)
Spring/summer propagation is fastest (roots develop in 7-14 days)
Fall/winter propagation works but is slower (3-5 weeks for roots)
You can propagate in the same pot as the parent plant to make it bushier (just stick cuttings into the soil around the edges)

Common Problems

Leggy growth (long stems with widely spaced leaves)

Cause: Not enough light. Syngonium stretches toward light when it’s insufficient.

Fix:

Move to brighter location (closer to a window)
Prune back leggy stems to 4-6 inches (new growth will be bushier if light is adequate)
Propagate the cuttings (turn one leggy plant into multiple compact plants)
Rotate the plant weekly (ensures even growth on all sides)

Even in low light, regular pruning helps maintain a bushier appearance.

Yellow leaves

Most common cause: Overwatering. Check soil moisture – if it’s soggy or stays wet for more than 7 days, you’re watering too frequently.

Fix:

Let soil dry out more between waterings (top 2 inches should be dry)
Check drainage (make sure pot has holes and water drains freely)
Check roots for rot (healthy = white/tan and firm, rotten = dark/mushy/smelly)
If root rot, trim rotten roots and repot in fresh soil

Other causes:

Natural aging (oldest bottom leaf occasionally yellows – normal)
Underwatering (if soil is bone dry and multiple leaves yellow – water more frequently)
Cold shock (moved from warm to cold location – keep above 60°F)

Brown tips or edges

Cause 1: Underwatering (most common)

Soil frequently bone dry
Plant droops before you water
Fix: Water more consistently when top 2 inches are dry

Cause 2: Low humidity (less common – Syngonium tolerates normal household humidity)

Only an issue in very dry air (below 30%)
Fix: Increase humidity with humidifier or move to more humid location

Cause 3: Tap water with high minerals

Brown tips progress slowly over months
Fix: Switch to filtered or distilled water

Variegation fading (white/pink turning green)

Not enough light. Variegated varieties need bright indirect light to maintain their colors. In low light, the plant produces more chlorophyll (green) to photosynthesize efficiently.

Fix:

Move to brighter location (east-facing window or closer to current window)
Prune any fully green leaves (they’ll outcompete variegated leaves)
New growth will have better variegation with adequate light
Accept that some varieties lose variegation in low light (green Syngonium is equally beautiful)

Entire plant drooping dramatically

Underwatering. This is Syngonium’s very obvious “I’m thirsty” signal.

Fix:

Water thoroughly immediately
Within 2-4 hours, leaves will perk up and plant looks normal again
Water more consistently (don’t wait for dramatic droop – water when top 2 inches are dry)

Good news: Syngonium bounces back from underwatering better than almost any houseplant. The droop looks dramatic but isn’t harmful if caught quickly.

Spider mites (rare but possible)

Syngonium is generally pest-resistant but can attract spider mites in very dry air or when stressed. Check undersides of leaves for tiny moving dots, fine webbing, or stippling.

Fix:

Spray with water to dislodge mites
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Wipe leaves with damp cloth weekly (prevention)
Increase humidity slightly
Isolate from other plants until mites are gone

Leaves staying arrow-shaped (not developing lobes)

This is normal for compact, pruned plants. Leaf shape depends on growth stage:

Juvenile growth (frequently pruned or new plants) = arrow-shaped leaves
Mature growth (unpruned vines or climbing plants) = lobed leaves with 3-7 segments

If you want lobed leaves, stop pruning and let the plant grow as a vine or climber.

Popular Syngonium Varieties (And How to Choose)

There are dozens of Syngonium varieties available, from solid green to pink to white variegation. Here are the most common:

Syngonium podophyllum (Green) – EASIEST

Classic solid green arrow-shaped leaves
Most tolerant of low light (survives in offices, north windows, low-light rooms)
Fastest growing
Most forgiving of care mistakes
Usually cheapest ($5-10)
Best for: Absolute beginners, low-light spaces, offices

Syngonium White Butterfly – POPULAR

White and green variegated leaves (looks like butterfly wings)
Needs bright indirect light (variegation fades in low light)
Moderate growth speed
Moderate price ($10-20)
Best for: Bright spaces, people who want something more colorful than solid green

Syngonium Pink Splash – COLORFUL

Pink and green speckled variegation (every leaf is unique)
Needs bright indirect light (pink fades to green in low light)
Moderate growth speed
Moderate to high price ($15-30)
Best for: Bright spaces, collectors who love pink plants

Syngonium Neon Robusta (Pink) – DRAMATIC

Bright neon pink leaves (solid pink, not variegated)
Needs bright indirect light (color fades in low light)
Slower growth than green varieties
Higher price ($20-40)
Best for: Bright spaces, people who want a statement plant

Syngonium Confetti – SPECKLED

White/cream speckles on green leaves (looks like paint splatter)
Needs bright indirect light
Moderate growth
Moderate price ($12-25)
Best for: Collectors who want unique variegation

Syngonium Maria Allusion – BRONZE-TONED

Bronze-green leaves with pink undersides
Needs bright indirect light
Moderate growth
Moderate price ($15-25)
Best for: People who want something different from typical green

Rare varieties (harder to find, more expensive):

Strawberry Cream – pink and cream variegation
Batik – dark green with white variegation
Three Kings – white, pink, and green variegation
Albo Variegata – large white sections (unstable variegation)

How to choose:

First Syngonium? Start with green. It’s the most forgiving and you’ll learn the basic care.
Have bright light? Try Pink Splash or White Butterfly. Colorful and still relatively easy.
Low light space? Stick with green. Variegated varieties won’t maintain their colors.
Want a challenge? Try Neon Robusta or rare varieties. More finicky about light.

What To Do Next

If you love Syngonium and want more varieties:

Try different colors: White Butterfly (variegated), Pink Splash (pink), Neon Robusta (bright pink)
Create a Syngonium collection (all varieties have the same care needs)
Propagate and share with friends

If your Syngonium is getting leggy:

Prune it back to 4-6 inches and propagate the cuttings
Move to brighter light if possible
Accept the leggy look and let it trail (totally valid choice)

If you want another easy trailing plant:

Pothos – extremely similar care, even more forgiving, many varieties
Philodendron Brasil – heart-shaped leaves with yellow variegation, trailing
Tradescantia Zebrina – purple and silver striped leaves, very easy, fast-growing
String of Hearts – heart-shaped succulent leaves, trailing, different care but also easy

If you want Syngonium to climb:

Add a moss pole or trellis (tie or pin vines to support as they grow)
Watch leaves transform (they’ll become larger and develop lobes as they climb)
Stop pruning (let it grow tall)

If variegation is fading:

Move to brighter location (variegated varieties need bright indirect light)
Prune any fully green leaves (they’ll outcompete variegated growth)
Accept that some varieties revert to green in low light (it’s natural)
Consider switching to a solid green variety if your space doesn’t have enough light

If you killed your Syngonium:

Try again! It’s one of the easiest plants (most common mistake is overwatering)
Start with a green variety (most forgiving)
Check soil before watering (top 2 inches should be dry)
Make sure pot has drainage holes