String of Dolphins Care: The Succulent with Jumping Dolphin Leaves

String of Dolphins (Senecio peregrinus or Curio × peregrinus) is one of the most unique and instantly recognizable succulents you can grow. The leaves are shaped exactly like tiny dolphins jumping through waves—complete with a curved body, dorsal fin, and tail. Each leaf looks like a miniature dolphin leaping out of the ocean. It’s adorable, whimsical, and unlike anything else in the plant world.

String of Dolphins is a hybrid between two other trailing succulents: String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) and Candle Plant (Senecio articulatus). The hybrid combines the best traits of both parents: the trailing growth habit and ease of String of Pearls, with the unique leaf shape and compact size of Candle Plant. The result is a plant that’s both beautiful and relatively easy to care for—more forgiving than its notoriously finicky parent, String of Pearls.

What makes String of Dolphins so special:

Unmistakable dolphin-shaped leaves: Each succulent leaf is shaped like a jumping dolphin with a curved body, distinct dorsal fin (the little bump on top), and tail. The shape is precise and instantly recognizable—you cannot mistake it for any other plant. It’s a true novelty plant that makes people smile.
Compact trailing habit: String of Dolphins produces cascading vines (strands) that trail down 12 to 24 inches when mature. It’s perfect for hanging baskets, high shelves, or macrame hangers. The vines are more compact and less sprawling than String of Pearls, making it easier to manage in small spaces.
More forgiving than String of Pearls: String of Pearls is notoriously finicky—it’s prone to rot, pests, and sudden death. String of Dolphins is more resilient: it tolerates inconsistent watering better, is less prone to rot, and recovers more easily from mistakes. If you’ve killed a String of Pearls before, String of Dolphins is a great second chance.
Unique hybrid origin: As a hybrid, String of Dolphins is relatively new to the houseplant world (popularized in the 2010s). It’s still somewhat rare in mainstream stores, though availability has improved. Prices range from $15 to $50 depending on size and maturity.
Functional leaf shape: The dolphin shape isn’t just cute—it’s functional. The compact, curved shape helps the plant conserve water and tolerate dry conditions in its native habitat (semi-arid regions of South Africa). Less surface area = less water loss through transpiration.

Care difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate. String of Dolphins is easier than String of Pearls and most other trailing succulents. If you can keep a jade plant or echeveria alive, you can grow String of Dolphins. The biggest challenge is avoiding overwatering—succulents hate wet feet.

Growth rate: Slow to moderate. String of Dolphins grows slowly compared to fast-spreading succulents like String of Bananas. Expect vines to grow 4 to 8 inches per year in ideal conditions. This slow growth is part of the appeal—it doesn’t outgrow its space quickly.

Mature size: Vines trail 12 to 24 inches long when mature (1 to 3 years). Some very old plants (5+ years) can produce vines up to 36 inches, but 18 to 24 inches is typical.

Toxicity: String of Dolphins is toxic to pets and humans if ingested (like all Senecio species). It contains toxic compounds that cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Keep out of reach of curious pets and children.

Let’s talk about how to keep your String of Dolphins healthy and producing those adorable dolphin-shaped leaves.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (some direct sun okay)
Water: When soil is completely dry (every 2 to 3 weeks)
Humidity: Normal household humidity is fine
Growth habit: Trailing succulent
Biggest mistake: Overwatering

Light

String of Dolphins needs bright, indirect light to maintain its compact dolphin shape and stay healthy. Light is one of the most important factors—too little light and the plant becomes leggy with stretched, deformed leaves that lose the dolphin shape; too much direct sun and the leaves shrivel and burn.

Best light:

South or west-facing window with a sheer curtain: This provides bright, filtered light for most of the day. The sheer curtain diffuses harsh afternoon sun and prevents burning.
East-facing window: Gentle morning sun (2 to 4 hours of direct morning sun is usually fine) followed by bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal.
4 to 6 hours of bright light daily: String of Dolphins needs several hours of bright light to stay compact and produce well-shaped dolphin leaves. If you can only provide 2 to 3 hours, the plant will survive but grow slowly and may become leggy.
Some direct sun is okay (especially morning sun): Unlike many succulents (which love full sun), String of Dolphins prefers bright indirect light with only 2 to 4 hours of gentle direct sun (morning sun from east windows). Too much hot afternoon sun burns the leaves.

Why bright light is critical for the dolphin shape:

In adequate bright light, the leaves grow compact and develop the full dolphin shape with a distinct dorsal fin and tail. The plant stays dense and bushy with short internodes (gaps between leaves).

In low light, the plant becomes leggy:

Long, stretched stems (internodes) with large gaps between leaves. The plant looks sparse and stringy instead of full and trailing.
Leaves lose the dolphin shape. They become elongated, flattened, or deformed. The dorsal fin may disappear, and the tail becomes exaggerated or floppy. The leaves look more like weird oval blobs than dolphins.
Pale, washed-out green color instead of vibrant green.
Slower growth or growth stops entirely.
Increased risk of rot because the plant is weaker and uses water more slowly.

If your String of Dolphins is leggy (long gaps between leaves, deformed dolphin shapes), the fix is simple: move to much brighter light and prune back the leggy vines. New growth in bright light will be compact with proper dolphin-shaped leaves.

Can you use grow lights? Yes. If you don’t have a bright window, full-spectrum LED grow lights work well. Place the light 12 to 18 inches above the plant and run it for 10 to 12 hours per day. This mimics bright indirect sunlight.

Signs of too much light (direct hot sun):

Leaves turn brown, tan, or reddish-purple (sun stress or sunburn)
Leaves shrivel or look dried out (sunburn)
Brown, crispy patches on leaves (sunburn)

If you see these signs, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain to diffuse direct sun.

Bottom line: String of Dolphins needs bright, indirect light (4 to 6 hours daily) to maintain the compact dolphin shape. East windows are ideal. South/west windows need sheer curtains. If your plant is leggy, it needs more light.

Watering

String of Dolphins is a succulent, which means it stores water in its fleshy dolphin-shaped leaves and is adapted to survive drought. Overwatering is the #1 cause of death for String of Dolphins (and all succulents). Water only when the soil is completely dry and the leaves feel slightly soft or wrinkled.

How to water:

Check the soil. Stick your finger into the soil 1 to 2 inches deep. If it’s completely bone dry (not just slightly dry on top—bone dry all the way down), it’s time to water. If there’s any dampness, wait a few more days.
Check the leaves. Healthy, hydrated dolphin leaves are plump and firm. When the plant needs water, the leaves feel slightly soft, deflated, or wrinkled (like a raisin). This is your secondary signal to water.
Water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture. Don’t just sprinkle water on top—soak the soil completely.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this causes root rot within days.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 2 to 3 weeks, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and soil. In bright light and warm temperatures (75 to 85°F), the plant uses water faster and may need watering every 2 weeks. In cooler or lower light, every 3 weeks.
Fall and winter (slower growth or dormancy): Every 3 to 4 weeks, or even less frequently. String of Dolphins grows much slower in fall/winter when temperatures drop and light decreases. The plant uses very little water during this time. Water sparingly—just enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling completely.

Why succulents hate overwatering:

Succulents are adapted to dry, arid environments with infrequent rain. Their roots are shallow and not designed to sit in wet soil for extended periods. If soil stays wet for more than a few days, the roots suffocate and rot. The rot spreads quickly to the stems and leaves, turning them mushy and translucent. Once rot sets in, it’s very difficult to save the plant.

Signs of overwatering (root rot—the most common cause of death):

Mushy, translucent, or squishy leaves that feel wet or jelly-like. This is rot. Healthy dolphin leaves are firm and plump.
Leaves turn yellow, brown, or black and fall off easily.
Soft, mushy stems near the soil line. If you gently tug a stem and it comes away easily, that’s rot.
Soil stays wet or soggy for a week+ after watering. Healthy soil should dry out completely within 7 to 10 days.
Soil smells sour, musty, or rotten.

If you catch rot early, you may be able to save the plant by cutting away all rotten sections, letting the healthy cuttings dry for 24 hours, and propagating them in fresh, dry soil. If the rot has spread to most of the plant, it’s likely beyond saving.

Signs of underwatering (less common, easy to fix):

Wrinkled, deflated, or shriveled leaves that feel soft and raisin-like. The dolphin leaves lose their plump, smooth shape.
Leaves turn yellowish or pale green (severe underwatering).
Vines look limp or droopy instead of perky and upright.

The fix is simple: Water thoroughly. The leaves should plump back up within 24 to 48 hours.

Bottom line: String of Dolphins is drought-tolerant. When in doubt, wait another few days before watering. It’s far easier to recover from underwatering than overwatering. Water only when the soil is bone dry and the leaves feel slightly soft.

Soil and Pot

String of Dolphins needs extremely well-draining, gritty soil that dries out quickly. Standard potting soil (which retains moisture) is too heavy for succulents and causes root rot.

Best soil mix for succulents:

Cactus and succulent mix (pre-made): This is the easiest option. Look for a bag labeled “cactus and succulent soil” at any garden center. These mixes contain sand, perlite, and/or pumice for fast drainage.
DIY mix: 1 part regular potting soil + 1 part perlite + 1 part coarse sand (or pumice). This creates a gritty, fast-draining mix. You can also do 1 part potting soil + 2 parts perlite if you want extra drainage.
Add extra perlite if the mix feels too dense. Succulent soil should feel gritty and sandy, not soft and fluffy like regular potting soil.

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes. Non-negotiable. Without drainage, even perfect watering will eventually cause rot.
Terracotta pots are ideal for succulents. Terracotta is porous and wicks moisture away from the soil, helping it dry out faster. This reduces the risk of overwatering. Plastic pots work too, but they retain moisture longer—so you’ll need to water less frequently.
Hanging basket or high shelf: String of Dolphins is a trailing succulent, so it looks best in a hanging basket, on a high shelf, or in a macrame hanger where the vines can cascade down.
Pot size: Choose a pot that’s only slightly larger than the current root ball (1 to 2 inches wider). Succulents prefer snug pots. Large pots hold too much soil and moisture, which increases rot risk.

Repotting: String of Dolphins is slow-growing and doesn’t need frequent repotting. Repot every 2 to 3 years (or when roots are visibly crowded or coming out of drainage holes). Spring or early summer is the best time.

Temperature and Humidity

Temperature: 60 to 80°F is ideal. String of Dolphins tolerates normal home temperatures year-round.

Tolerates: Temperatures down to 50°F briefly (but growth slows significantly).
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 45°F (cold damage: leaves turn mushy and black), or sudden temperature swings.
Summer heat: String of Dolphins tolerates heat well (up to 90°F+) as long as it’s not in direct hot sun and is watered appropriately.

Humidity: Normal household humidity (30 to 50 percent) is perfectly fine. String of Dolphins does not need high humidity—in fact, high humidity increases the risk of rot. Dry air is ideal for succulents.

No humidifier needed. If you’re comfortable in your home, your String of Dolphins is comfortable too.
Avoid: Very humid rooms (like bathrooms with frequent showers) or terrariums. Succulents prefer dry air.

Fertilizer

String of Dolphins is a slow-growing succulent and does not need much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing can cause leggy growth, weak stems, and salt buildup.

How to fertilize:

Type: Balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) or cactus/succulent fertilizer.
Frequency: Once in spring (March or April) and once in summer (June or July). That’s it—just twice a year.
Dilution: Use half strength (dilute to 50% of the recommended dose on the bottle). Succulents need very little fertilizer.
Skip: Fall and winter (October through February). The plant grows very slowly during this time and doesn’t need nutrients.

What happens if you forget to fertilize?

Nothing dramatic. String of Dolphins grows slowly even with fertilizer. If you skip fertilizing for a year, the plant will be fine—growth may be slightly slower, but it won’t die.

What happens if you over-fertilize?

Over-fertilizing causes:

Leggy, stretched growth (long gaps between leaves)
Weak, floppy stems
Salt buildup (white crusty residue on the soil surface)
Brown, burnt leaf tips

If you see these signs, stop fertilizing and flush the soil by watering thoroughly several times to wash out excess salts.

Pruning

String of Dolphins stays relatively compact but can be pruned to control length, encourage bushier growth, or remove damaged sections.

When to prune:

Spring or early summer (active growing season) is the best time. The plant recovers and produces new growth quickly.
Anytime if you need to remove damaged, rotted, or leggy sections.

How to prune:

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading disease.
Cut vines back to your desired length. Cut just above a leaf node (where a leaf attaches to the stem). This encourages new growth from that node.
Remove any damaged, mushy, or dead leaves by gently pulling them off or snipping them away.
Propagate the cuttings! Don’t throw away the pruned sections—you can propagate them to grow new plants (see Propagation section).

Pruning encourages bushier growth: If your String of Dolphins has only a few long vines, pruning encourages the plant to produce more stems from the base, creating a fuller, bushier appearance.

Propagating String of Dolphins

String of Dolphins propagates easily from stem cuttings. Propagation is a great way to create new plants for free, share with friends, or rescue a plant that’s suffering from rot (by taking cuttings of healthy sections).

When to propagate: Spring or early summer (active growing season) for fastest rooting. You can propagate anytime, but roots develop more slowly in fall/winter.

How to propagate String of Dolphins (step-by-step):

Take stem cuttings. Use clean, sharp scissors to cut sections of healthy vine. Each cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long with at least 3 to 5 dolphin leaves attached. Cut just below a leaf node (where a leaf attaches to the stem).
Remove the bottom 1 to 2 inches of leaves. Gently pull off or snip away the leaves from the bottom section of the cutting. This exposes the bare stem, which is where roots will develop. Leave the top leaves intact.
Let the cuttings dry (callus over) for 24 to 48 hours. Lay the cuttings on a plate or tray in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun. The cut end will form a callus (a dry, sealed layer). This prevents rot when you plant the cutting. This step is critical for succulent propagation—never skip it. If you plant fresh cuttings immediately, they often rot.
Prepare a small pot with dry or barely moist succulent soil. Use cactus/succulent mix or your DIY gritty mix. The soil should be dry or just barely moist (not wet). Fill a small pot (3 to 4 inches) with drainage holes.
Lay the cuttings on top of the soil or insert them shallowly. You can either:
- Lay the cuttings horizontally on top of the soil with the bare stem section touching the soil. This is the easiest method. Roots will grow down into the soil.
- Insert the bare stem section 0.5 to 1 inch into the soil so the cutting stands upright. Press the soil gently around the stem.
Place in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun (which can dry out the cuttings before they root).
Mist the soil lightly every 5 to 7 days (or when the soil is completely dry). Don’t soak the soil—just mist lightly to provide minimal moisture. The cuttings are vulnerable to rot until they develop roots.
Wait 3 to 6 weeks for roots to develop. String of Dolphins roots slowly compared to other succulents. Be patient. You’ll know roots have developed when:
- The cutting resists gentle tugging (roots are anchoring it in place).
- You see new growth (tiny new dolphin leaves emerging from the top of the cutting).
Once rooted, care for the new plant normally. Gradually increase watering to the normal schedule (every 2 to 3 weeks when soil is completely dry).

Success rate: 70 to 85 percent if you let the cuttings callus over and avoid overwatering. If cuttings rot (turn mushy and black), it’s almost always because:

They weren’t allowed to callus over before planting.
The soil was too wet during rooting.
The cuttings were placed in direct sun and dried out completely.

Can you propagate in water? Not recommended for succulents. String of Dolphins can technically root in water, but water-rooted cuttings often rot when transitioned to soil (because they’re adapted to constant moisture and struggle in dry soil). Soil propagation is more reliable for succulents.

Bottom line: String of Dolphins is easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Let cuttings dry for 24 to 48 hours, plant in barely moist soil, mist lightly every week, and wait 3 to 6 weeks for roots.

Common Problems

Leggy growth (long gaps between leaves, stretched stems)

This is the most common complaint with String of Dolphins.

Cause: Not enough light

The plant is reaching desperately toward light, causing long internodes (gaps between leaves). The dolphin leaves become elongated and deformed.

The fix:

Move to much brighter light. Aim for 4 to 6 hours of bright indirect light daily. East window ideal, or south/west with sheer curtain.
Prune back the leggy vines. Cut the stretched sections back to encourage new, compact growth. New growth in bright light will be dense with properly shaped dolphin leaves.
Propagate the pruned cuttings to create new plants (see Propagation section).

Mushy, translucent, or squishy leaves (root rot—the #1 killer)

If the dolphin leaves feel soft, wet, mushy, or jelly-like, the plant has root rot from overwatering.

Cause: Overwatering

Watering too frequently (before soil is completely dry).
Soil doesn’t drain well (too dense, or pot has no drainage holes).
Pot is too large (holds too much moisture).
Plant is in low light (uses water very slowly, so soil stays wet longer).

The fix:

Stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out completely.
Unpot the plant and inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white or tan and firm. Rotten roots are black, mushy, and smell sour.
Cut away all rotten sections (roots, stems, and leaves) with clean scissors. Save only healthy, firm sections.
Let the healthy cuttings dry for 24 to 48 hours to callus over.
Propagate the healthy cuttings in fresh, dry succulent soil.
Discard the rotten sections (they cannot be saved).
Going forward: Water only when soil is bone dry and leaves feel slightly soft. Use very well-draining soil. Ensure pot has drainage holes.

Prevention: Water less frequently. Check soil dryness before watering. Use gritty succulent soil and terracotta pots.

Wrinkled, deflated, or shriveled leaves (underwatering)

If the dolphin leaves look wrinkled, raisin-like, or deflated (like a balloon losing air), the plant is thirsty.

Cause: Underwatering

It’s been too long since the last watering.
The roots are damaged or dead (so they can’t absorb water even when you water).

The fix:

Water thoroughly. Soak the soil completely until water drains out the bottom.
The leaves should plump back up within 24 to 48 hours. If they don’t, check for root damage (unpot and inspect roots).

Prevention: Water when the soil is completely dry and the leaves feel slightly soft. Don’t wait until the leaves are severely shriveled.

Leaves losing dolphin shape (elongated, flattened, or deformed)

If the dolphin leaves don’t look like dolphins anymore—they’re too long, flat, or blob-shaped—it’s a light issue.

Cause: Not enough light

In low light, the leaves grow abnormally elongated or flattened. The distinct dorsal fin and tail disappear. The leaves look like weird ovals or beans instead of dolphins.

The fix:

Move to brighter light (4 to 6 hours of bright indirect light daily).
New growth in bright light will develop proper dolphin shapes. Existing deformed leaves won’t change, but you can prune them off if they bother you.

Pests (rare, but possible)

String of Dolphins is generally pest-resistant, but it can occasionally attract mealybugs (the most common succulent pest).

Mealybugs:

Signs: White, cottony clusters on stems, leaf undersides, or in leaf axils (where leaf meets stem). Sticky residue (honeydew) on leaves.
Fix: Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab each mealybug to kill it. Wipe down all leaves and stems with a damp cloth. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. Repeat weekly for 3 to 4 weeks. Isolate the plant to prevent spreading to other plants.

Spider mites (less common):

Signs: Fine webbing, tiny moving dots on undersides, stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves.
Fix: Spray with water, treat with insecticidal soap. Repeat weekly.

Prevention: Inspect your String of Dolphins weekly when watering. Healthy plants are less attractive to pests.

Leaves turning yellow, brown, or black

Cause 1: Overwatering / root rot

Yellow, brown, or black leaves that feel mushy = rot. See “Mushy leaves” section above.

Cause 2: Sunburn (direct hot sun)

Brown, tan, or reddish-purple leaves that feel dry and crispy = sunburn. Move to bright indirect light (no direct afternoon sun).

Cause 3: Natural aging

The oldest (bottom) leaves occasionally turn yellow and die as the plant grows. This is normal. Gently remove dead leaves.

Plant stopped growing or growing very slowly

Cause 1: It’s fall or winter

String of Dolphins grows very slowly or goes semi-dormant in fall/winter when temperatures drop and light decreases. This is normal. Growth will resume in spring.

Cause 2: Not enough light

In low light, growth slows dramatically. Move to brighter light.

Cause 3: Rootbound (rare for slow-growing succulents)

If roots are packed tightly and coming out of drainage holes, repot in a slightly larger pot with fresh soil.

Why String of Dolphins Is Special (And Why the Dolphin Shape Matters)

The dolphin-shaped leaves are not just cute—they’re functional. The compact, curved shape helps the plant conserve water and tolerate dry conditions in its native semi-arid habitat (South Africa). The reduced surface area (compared to flat leaves) minimizes water loss through transpiration. This is why String of Dolphins is more drought-tolerant than many other houseplants.

The dolphin shape also makes this plant instantly recognizable and collectible. Novelty succulents with unique leaf shapes (like String of Dolphins, String of Turtles, String of Hearts, Bunny Ear Cactus) are extremely popular among plant collectors and gift-givers. They photograph beautifully (perfect for Instagram), make people smile, and are great conversation starters.

String of Dolphins is also more forgiving than its parent, String of Pearls. String of Pearls is notoriously finicky—it’s prone to rot, pests, and sudden collapse. String of Dolphins inherited the trailing growth habit and ease of care but is more resilient to mistakes. If you’ve struggled with String of Pearls, String of Dolphins is a much better choice.

Toxicity

String of Dolphins is toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Like all Senecio species, it contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids (toxic compounds) that cause:

Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea
Liver damage (with prolonged or large ingestion)

Keep out of reach of curious pets and children. If ingested, contact your vet (for pets) or Poison Control (1-800-222-1222 for humans).

What To Do Next

If you love novelty succulents with unique leaf shapes:

Try String of Turtles (Peperomia prostrata) for tiny turtle shell-patterned leaves. Easier than String of Dolphins (tolerates more moisture). Compact trailing habit. $15 to $40.
Try String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) for heart-shaped leaves on delicate trailing vines. Drought-tolerant, fast-growing, easy. $10 to $30.
Try String of Bananas (Senecio radicans) for banana-shaped leaves. Faster-growing and slightly easier than String of Dolphins. $10 to $25.
Try Bunny Ear Cactus (Opuntia microdasys) for paddle-shaped pads that look like bunny ears. Very easy, tolerates neglect. $10 to $25.

If your String of Dolphins is leggy (long gaps between leaves):

Move to brighter light (4 to 6 hours bright indirect daily). East window ideal.
Prune back the leggy vines to encourage new, compact growth.
Propagate the pruned cuttings to create new plants.

If your String of Dolphins has mushy leaves (rot):

Cut away all rotten sections (they cannot be saved).
Propagate healthy cuttings in fresh, dry succulent soil.
Water less frequently going forward (only when soil is bone dry).

If you want another trailing succulent:

Try String of Bananas (faster-growing, slightly easier).
Try String of Pearls (classic, but more finicky—only try if you’ve mastered String of Dolphins).
Try String of Tears / String of Raindrops (teardrop-shaped leaves, similar care to String of Dolphins).

If you’re considering buying String of Dolphins:

Look for: Compact, dense growth with lots of properly shaped dolphin leaves (distinct dorsal fin and tail). No mushy or yellowing leaves. Healthy green color.
Avoid: Leggy plants with long gaps between leaves (means it was grown in low light). Mushy or yellowing leaves (rot). Very small plants with only 2 to 3 leaves (they’re harder to keep alive).
Price: $15 to $50 depending on size and maturity. Small starter plants (4-inch pot with short vines) are usually $15 to $25. Mature plants with long trailing vines (6 to 8-inch pot) are $35 to $50.

Bottom line: String of Dolphins is a unique, adorable trailing succulent that’s more forgiving than String of Pearls. Perfect for bright indirect light, infrequent watering, and anyone who loves novelty plants. Avoid overwatering, provide 4 to 6 hours of bright light daily, and you’ll have a happy dolphin-shaped succulent for years.