String of Buttons Care: The Stacked Succulent

String of Buttons (Crassula perforata) is one of the most unique-looking succulents you can grow indoors. Despite the name, it’s not a trailing plant like String of Pearls – instead, it grows upright with triangular leaves stacked tightly along thick stems like buttons on a coat or tiles on a roof. The leaves are grayish-green to blue-green with pink to red edges (the red intensifies with more light and cooler temperatures). The botanical name “perforata” means “perforated” or “pierced,” referring to how the stem appears to pierce through the center of each pair of leaves.

The growth habit is fascinating to watch – new leaves emerge at the top of the stem in perfect pairs, stacked perpendicular to the pair below, creating a symmetrical spiral staircase effect. Mature plants can reach 12-18 inches tall with multiple stems growing from the base, creating a bushy, architectural look. The stems can eventually get top-heavy and flop over (at which point you can prune them back or prop them up with stakes).

String of Buttons is extremely easy to care for and perfect for beginners. It tolerates neglect, low humidity, and some watering mistakes (though it’s far more forgiving of underwatering than overwatering). If you’ve killed other houseplants or are new to succulents, this is an excellent starter plant. The biggest mistake is overwatering – this is a true succulent that stores water in its leaves and needs very infrequent watering.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, direct light (4 to 6 hours)
Water: When soil is completely dry (every 2 to 3 weeks)
Humidity: Dry air is fine
Growth habit: Upright, stacked stems
Biggest mistake: Overwatering

Light

String of Buttons needs bright, direct light to stay compact and develop those beautiful red/pink edges. This is a full-sun succulent that can handle (and actually prefers) several hours of direct sunlight daily. Insufficient light causes the stems to stretch and lean toward the light source (etiolation), ruining the tight stacked appearance.

Best light:

South or west-facing window (ideal – provides 4-6 hours of direct sun)
East-facing window works if very bright (morning sun is gentler than afternoon sun)
Outdoors in full sun during spring and summer (bring inside when temperatures drop below 50°F)

The more direct sun, the more intense the red/pink coloration on the leaf edges. Plants grown in bright indirect light stay more grayish-green with little to no red coloring. Plants in full sun can develop deep pink-red edges that make the stacked leaves really pop.

Signs of too little light:

Stems stretch and lean toward the light (etiolation – the spaces between leaf pairs increase and the stem gets thin and weak)
Leaves lose red edges and turn plain green or gray-green
Leggy, floppy growth that can’t support itself
New growth comes in pale and thin

Signs of too much light:

Extremely rare indoors (String of Buttons can handle full outdoor sun)
Possible scorching if moved suddenly from low light to intense sun (leaves turn brown/black)
Gradual acclimation prevents sunburn

If your String of Buttons is stretching, move it to the sunniest window you have. If it’s already stretched and leggy, prune it back (see propagation section – you can root the cuttings) and move to brighter light so new growth comes in compact. The stretched sections won’t compact back down once they’ve elongated.

Watering

String of Buttons is extremely drought-tolerant and stores water in its thick, fleshy leaves. Water only when the soil is completely dry and the leaves start to feel slightly soft or wrinkled. When in doubt, wait another week – underwatering is far safer than overwatering with succulents.

How to water:

Check the soil completely (stick a skewer or your finger deep into the pot – soil should be bone dry all the way to the bottom)
Check the leaves (gently squeeze – fully hydrated leaves are firm and rigid, thirsty leaves feel slightly soft or give a little when squeezed)
If soil is bone dry AND leaves feel slightly soft, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Let the pot drain completely and empty the saucer (never let it sit in standing water)

Typical schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 2 to 3 weeks
Fall and winter (dormant season): Every 3 to 4 weeks, possibly longer
Adjust based on your conditions (more light/heat = faster drying, less light/cooler temps = slower drying)

The schedule varies dramatically based on pot size, soil mix, light, temperature, and humidity. A small pot in a hot, sunny window might need water every 10-14 days in summer. A large pot in medium light might only need water every 4-6 weeks in winter. Always check the soil and leaves rather than watering on a fixed schedule.

Signs of overwatering:

Mushy, translucent, or yellowing leaves (this is serious – the leaves are rotting)
Leaves fall off easily when touched
Stems turn soft and mushy
Soil smells sour or moldy
Root rot (roots are dark, mushy, and smell bad)

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves feel soft or deflated (not rigid)
Lower leaves wrinkle or shrivel
Leaves curl inward slightly
Plant looks droopy (rare – usually happens before you notice these signs)

Critical: Overwatering causes root rot and kills String of Buttons quickly. Mushy, translucent leaves cannot recover (they’re dead). If you catch root rot early, you can cut away rotten sections and propagate healthy stems, but prevention is much easier. If you’re unsure whether to water, wait another few days. This plant can go weeks without water and bounce back fine.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, gritty soil that dries out quickly. String of Buttons is adapted to rocky, sandy soil in its native South Africa and cannot tolerate sitting in moisture. Regular potting soil stays too wet and will cause root rot.

Best soil mix:

Cactus and succulent mix (easiest option – buy pre-made from any garden center)
DIY mix: 1 part regular potting soil + 1 part perlite + 1 part coarse sand (creates fast-draining, airy soil)
Add extra perlite or pumice if you tend to overwater (50% grit, 50% soil creates extremely fast-draining mix)

The soil should feel gritty and crumbly, not dense or moisture-retentive. Water should drain through the pot within a few seconds, not pool on the surface.

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes (non-negotiable – without drainage, water accumulates at the bottom and causes root rot)
Terracotta or unglazed ceramic pots are ideal (porous material wicks moisture away from soil and helps prevent overwatering)
Plastic or glazed ceramic pots work but dry out slower (water less frequently)
Small to medium pot (String of Buttons doesn’t need frequent repotting – it actually prefers being slightly rootbound)

When to repot:

Every 2-3 years or when roots grow out of drainage holes
Only move up one pot size (1-2 inches larger in diameter)
Spring is the best time to repot (active growing season)
Use fresh soil when repotting (old soil loses drainage properties over time)

Temperature and Humidity

String of Buttons is not fussy.

Temperature: 60 to 80 F
Humidity: Dry air is fine

Fertilizer

String of Buttons does not need much food.

Fertilize once in spring and once in summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Pruning

String of Buttons can get tall and top-heavy. Prune to control height or encourage bushier growth.

How to prune:

Cut back tall stems
Remove damaged leaves
Propagate the cuttings

Propagating String of Buttons

String of Buttons propagates extremely easily from stem cuttings or individual leaf cuttings. Propagation is also the solution if your plant has gotten leggy – prune back the stretched stems and root them to create compact new plants.

Stem cutting method (easiest and fastest):

Cut a stem 4-6 inches long with clean scissors or pruners (choose a healthy stem with tightly stacked leaves)
Let the cutting dry for 24-48 hours in a warm, dry location (this allows the cut end to callus over and prevents rot)
Plant in dry or barely moist cactus soil (stick the bottom 1-2 inches into soil)
Wait 3-5 days before watering (let roots start forming first)
Water lightly every 7-10 days (keep soil barely moist, not wet)
Roots develop in 2-4 weeks (gently tug to check – if it resists, roots have formed)
Resume normal care once roots are established

Success rate: 90%+ if you let the cutting callus and don’t overwater.

Leaf cutting method (slower but fun to watch):

Gently remove healthy leaves by wiggling them side to side until they pop off cleanly (you need the entire leaf including the base where it attaches to the stem)
Let leaves dry for 24-48 hours in a warm, dry location
Lay leaves on top of dry cactus soil (don’t bury them – just rest them on the surface)
Mist lightly every 5-7 days (soil should be barely damp, not wet)
New rosettes develop in 4-8 weeks (tiny new plants emerge from the base of the leaf)
Once new plants have roots and are growing well, transplant to individual pots
The original leaf will eventually shrivel as the new plant uses its stored water

Success rate: 70-80% (some leaves will rot instead of rooting, especially if kept too wet or if the leaf base wasn’t intact).

Common propagation mistakes:

Planting immediately without letting cuttings callus (causes rot)
Overwatering (keep soil dry to barely moist, not wet)
Planting leaf cuttings instead of laying on surface (leaves rot when buried)
Not providing enough light (cuttings need bright light to root well)

Pro tip: If you have a leggy, stretched String of Buttons, cut it back to 4-6 inches tall, let the top sections callus, and replant them. You’ll get multiple compact new plants and the original plant will branch out from where you cut it, creating bushier growth.

Common Problems

Leggy, stretched growth (etiolation)

This is the most common problem and it’s caused by not enough light. The spaces between leaf pairs increase as the stem stretches toward the light, and the stem becomes thin and weak. Once a stem has stretched, it won’t compact back down.

Fix:

Move to the brightest, sunniest location you have (south or west window, 4-6 hours direct sun)
Consider moving outdoors in summer if you have a sunny spot
Prune back stretched sections (cut below the stretched area, keep the compact base, and propagate the top sections after letting them callus)
New growth will come in compact if light is adequate

Red/pink edges fading to green

Not enough light and/or not enough temperature variation. The red/pink coloring intensifies with bright light and cooler nighttime temperatures (like outdoor conditions in spring/fall). Plants grown in consistent indoor temperatures with medium light stay more gray-green.

Fix:

Move to brighter, sunnier location
Place outdoors in spring/summer (outdoor conditions produce the most vibrant coloring)
Accept that indoor-grown plants may have less dramatic coloring (still beautiful, just less intense)

Mushy, translucent, or yellowing leaves

Overwatering or root rot. This is serious – the leaves are rotting and cannot recover.

Fix:

Stop watering immediately
Check roots (unpot and inspect – healthy roots are white/light tan and firm, rotten roots are dark/mushy/smelly)
If roots are mostly healthy, repot in fresh dry soil and wait 7-10 days before watering lightly
If roots are mostly rotten, cut away all rotten sections and propagate any healthy stems (let cuttings callus 24-48 hours before planting)
In the future, water less frequently and only when soil is completely dry and leaves feel soft

Leaves falling off easily

Could be overwatering (leaves rot and fall off) or extreme underwatering (lower leaves shrivel and drop to conserve water).

Overwatering: Leaves are mushy or translucent before falling (see fix above)

Underwatering: Lower leaves are shriveled, wrinkled, and dry before falling. Fix: water more frequently (but still only when soil is completely dry).

Natural aging: Bottom leaves occasionally drop as the plant grows – normal if it’s just one or two old leaves and the rest of the plant looks healthy.

Top-heavy stems flopping over

Not a disease, just physics. Mature stems can get 12-18 inches tall and eventually become too top-heavy to stay upright, especially in lower light where stems aren’t as thick and sturdy.

Fix:

Prune back to 6-8 inches to encourage bushier, more stable growth (propagate the cuttings)
Stake stems with bamboo stakes and soft ties
Move to brighter light (sun-grown stems are thicker and sturdier)
Repot into a heavier pot (terracotta) for better balance

Pests (rare but possible)

Mealybugs are the most common pest on succulents. They look like tiny white cottony spots in the leaf joints.

Fix:

Dab with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Isolate from other plants until pests are gone
Inspect regularly (catch infestations early)

Spider mites are possible in very dry air (though String of Buttons tolerates dry air well). Look for fine webbing or stippling on leaves.

Fix:

Spray with water to dislodge mites
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Repeat treatment every 5-7 days for 2-3 weeks

No growth or very slow growth

Could be normal dormancy (fall/winter) or inadequate light/nutrients.

String of Buttons grows most actively in spring and summer, slows or stops in fall/winter (normal)
If no growth during growing season, move to brighter light and fertilize lightly
Very slow growth is normal for succulents compared to tropical houseplants

What To Do Next

If String of Buttons is thriving:

Try Crassula ‘Tom Thumb’ (similar stacked growth, smaller and more compact, stays under 6 inches)
Try Crassula Buddha’s Temple (more dramatic stacking, tighter and more architectural)
Try Echeveria (rosette-forming succulents, similar care needs, many colorful varieties)
Try Sedum morganianum (Burro’s Tail – trailing succulent with stacked leaves)

If String of Buttons is leggy:

Prune it back to 6 inches tall (propagate the top sections)
Move to much brighter light (south/west window or outdoors in summer)
New growth will come in compact if light is adequate
Consider this a learning experience – succulents need more light than most houseplants

If you want another easy, compact succulent:

Jade plant (Crassula ovata – same genus, tree-like growth, extremely forgiving)
Haworthia (small rosette succulents, tolerate lower light than String of Buttons)
Aloe vera (medicinal succulent, similar care needs)
Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ (beautiful lavender-gray rosette with pink edges)

If String of Buttons is too high-light for your space:

Try Sansevieria (Snake Plant – tolerates low to bright light, very forgiving)
Try Pothos or Philodendron (easier in medium to bright indirect light)
Try ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia – tolerates low light and neglect)

If you love the stacked architectural look:

Try Crassula capitella ‘Campfire’ (similar stacked growth, turns bright red/orange in sun)
Try Crassula tetragona (Mini Pine Tree – upright with needle-like stacked leaves)
Try Senecio rowleyanus (String of Pearls – trailing succulent with bead-like leaves)

If you want to see dramatic red coloring:

Move outdoors in spring/summer (full sun + temperature variation = intense red edges)
Bring inside when temperatures drop below 50°F
Acclimate gradually (start with morning sun, build up to full sun over 2 weeks)