String of Bananas Care: The Trailing Succulent with Curved Leaves

String of Bananas (Senecio radicans, also sold as Curio radicans) is a trailing succulent with plump, banana-shaped leaves that cascade gracefully from hanging baskets or shelves. The leaves are curved like tiny bananas (hence the name), giving the plant a unique, whimsical appearance. This is one of the most forgiving and beginner-friendly trailing succulents you can grow.

String of Bananas is closely related to String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) and String of Dolphins (Senecio peregrinus), but String of Bananas is significantly easier to care for. It’s more forgiving of watering mistakes, grows faster, and adapts to a wider range of light conditions. If you’ve ever killed a String of Pearls (which is notoriously fussy), String of Bananas is the perfect redemption plant.

Why Grow String of Bananas?

Unique aesthetic: The banana-shaped leaves are instantly recognizable and add visual interest to any space. String of Bananas looks stunning in hanging baskets, cascading down shelves, or spilling over the edges of tall planters.
Low-maintenance: Once you understand its basic needs (bright light, infrequent watering), String of Bananas practically takes care of itself. It’s drought-tolerant and doesn’t need high humidity or constant attention.
Fast growth: In optimal conditions (bright light, proper watering), String of Bananas can grow several feet per year. The vines can reach 2 to 3+ feet long (some mature plants have vines 4 to 5+ feet long). This makes it incredibly satisfying to grow—you’ll see visible progress quickly.
Easy propagation: String of Bananas propagates effortlessly from stem cuttings. You can expand your collection, share cuttings with friends, or fill in sparse areas of the plant by propagating and replanting cuttings.
Pet-friendly? No. String of Bananas is toxic to pets (cats, dogs) and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children. We’ll cover toxicity in detail below.

Bottom line: If you want a low-maintenance, fast-growing trailing succulent with unique foliage and easy care, String of Bananas is an excellent choice.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light with some direct morning sun (4 to 6 hours daily). Tolerates partial shade but growth slows and vines stretch.
Water: Infrequent. Water only when soil is completely dry and leaves start to wrinkle slightly. Every 2 to 3 weeks in spring/summer, every 3 to 4+ weeks in fall/winter. Overwatering is the #1 killer.
Humidity: Normal household humidity (30 to 50%) is perfect. Dry air is fine—String of Bananas is drought-adapted.
Soil: Well-draining, gritty cactus/succulent mix. Never use regular potting soil (too dense, holds too much moisture, causes rot).
Temperature: 60 to 80°F. Tolerates brief exposure to 50°F but not prolonged cold. Not frost-hardy.
Fertilizer: Light feeder. Fertilize once in spring and once in summer with diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength). Skip fall/winter.
Growth habit: Fast-growing trailing succulent. Vines can reach 2 to 3+ feet long (mature plants 4 to 5+ feet). Perfect for hanging baskets, shelves, or tall planters.
Biggest mistake: Overwatering. Leads to mushy, translucent leaves and root rot. This is the #1 reason String of Bananas dies.

Light

String of Bananas needs bright light to stay compact, plump, and healthy. It’s a succulent native to South Africa, where it grows in bright, sunny conditions with some shade from larger plants. In your home, it needs 4 to 6+ hours of bright light daily to thrive.

Best Light Conditions

South or west-facing window with sheer curtain (ideal):

These windows provide the brightest light. A sheer curtain filters the intensity slightly, preventing sunburn during the hottest part of the day (especially in summer). The filtered light is perfect for String of Bananas—bright enough to keep the plant compact and healthy, but not so intense that it burns.
Why this works: South and west windows get the most light hours per day (8 to 12+ hours in summer). Even with a sheer curtain, String of Bananas gets plenty of intensity to stay plump and grow quickly.

East-facing window (also excellent):

East windows provide bright, gentle morning sun (2 to 4 hours of direct sun in the morning) followed by bright, indirect light for the rest of the day. Morning sun is cooler and less intense than afternoon sun, so it’s less likely to burn the leaves. This is arguably the best window for String of Bananas because it gets direct sun without the risk of afternoon sunburn.
Why this works: The direct morning sun keeps the plant compact and encourages faster growth. The afternoon shade prevents overheating or burning.

Some direct morning sun is beneficial:

String of Bananas can tolerate—and even appreciates—2 to 4 hours of gentle, direct morning sun (from an east-facing window). The direct sun keeps the vines short and compact, encourages faster growth, and makes the leaves extra plump and vibrant.
However, avoid hot, direct afternoon sun (from south or unfiltered west windows) during summer. Afternoon sun is much more intense and can cause sunburn—the leaves turn brown, shriveled, or develop crispy patches.

Bright, indirect light all day (acceptable but not ideal):

If you don’t have a window with direct morning sun, String of Bananas can grow in bright, indirect light all day (for example, 3 to 5 feet from a south or west window, or directly in an unobstructed north window in a bright room). However, growth will be slightly slower and the vines may stretch slightly more than they would with some direct sun.

Signs of Too Little Light (Low Light)

Leggy, stretched growth (etiolation):

This is the #1 sign of insufficient light. The vines grow long and thin with large gaps between the leaves (internodal spacing increases). Instead of compact, full vines covered in plump banana-shaped leaves, you get sparse, straggly vines with widely spaced leaves. The plant looks thin and unhealthy.
Why this happens: In low light, the plant stretches toward the light source, trying to find more light. The stems elongate rapidly but don’t produce many leaves because there’s not enough energy (from photosynthesis) to support dense foliage.
How to fix it: Move the plant to a brighter location immediately (closer to a window or to a brighter window). Once the plant is in adequate light, prune back the leggy vines to encourage bushier, more compact growth. New growth will be more compact if the light is sufficient.

Leaves lose their plumpness:

The banana-shaped leaves become thinner, flatter, and less succulent-looking. Instead of plump, rounded “bananas,” the leaves look deflated or wrinkled.
Why this happens: In low light, the plant isn’t photosynthesizing efficiently, so it can’t maintain the water and nutrient reserves stored in the leaves. The leaves deflate slightly as the plant uses up stored resources.

Slower growth or no growth:

The plant produces few or no new vines or leaves. Growth stalls or slows dramatically (1 new leaf every few months instead of several leaves per month).
Why this happens: Without adequate light, the plant doesn’t have enough energy to support active growth.

Yellowing or dropping leaves:

If light is extremely low (for example, in a dim corner or a north-facing room with no supplemental lighting), the plant may start dropping leaves or turning yellow as it struggles to survive.

Bottom line: Leggy growth = not enough light. Move to a brighter spot immediately. Compact, full vines = adequate light.

Signs of Too Much Light (Direct Hot Sun)

Leaves turn brown, shriveled, or crispy:

This is sunburn. The leaves develop brown, dry, crispy patches or edges. The affected areas look bleached or scorched. Sunburn is permanent damage—the affected leaves won’t recover.
Why this happens: Hot, direct afternoon sun (especially from unfiltered south or west windows in summer) is too intense. The leaves overheat and the tissues burn.
How to fix it: Move the plant away from the hot, direct sun. Place it 2 to 3 feet back from the window, or add a sheer curtain to filter the light. Trim off the burned leaves if they’re unsightly—they won’t recover.

Leaves look pale, washed-out, or yellowish:

Instead of vibrant green banana-shaped leaves, the leaves look pale green, yellowish, or bleached. This is a milder form of sun stress—not full sunburn, but too much intensity.
Why this happens: Excessive light intensity can bleach chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves), causing the leaves to lose their vibrant color.

The plant is growing well but the leaves look stressed:

If the vines are growing quickly and the leaves are plump, but they have brown tips or look slightly scorched, the light intensity is fine but the direct sun exposure is too much. Filter the light slightly with a sheer curtain.

Can You Use Grow Lights?

Yes. If you don’t have a bright window, full-spectrum LED grow lights work well for String of Bananas.

How to use grow lights:

Choose a full-spectrum LED grow light (available online or at garden centers). LEDs are energy-efficient, don’t generate much heat, and provide the full spectrum of light that plants need for photosynthesis.
Place the light 12 to 18 inches above the plant. If the light is too close (less than 12 inches), the intensity may be too strong and the leaves can burn. If the light is too far (more than 24 inches), the intensity may be too weak and the plant will still get leggy.
Run the light for 12 to 14 hours per day. Use a timer to automate this. String of Bananas needs long light exposure to stay compact and grow well.
Monitor the plant’s response. If the vines stay compact and the leaves are plump and vibrant green, the light is working well. If the vines stretch or the leaves deflate, move the light closer or increase the daily hours.

Grow lights are especially useful in winter when natural daylight hours are short and windows receive less intense light.

Bottom Line: Light Requirements

String of Bananas needs bright light to thrive:

Ideal: East-facing window (gentle morning sun + bright indirect light) or south/west window with sheer curtain.
Acceptable: Bright, indirect light all day (3 to 5 feet from a bright window).
Avoid: Low light (dim corners, north-facing rooms, far from windows). The plant will stretch, thin out, and look unhealthy.
Avoid: Hot, direct afternoon sun (unfiltered south/west windows in summer). The leaves will burn.

If your String of Bananas is leggy, it needs more light. Move it closer to a window or add a grow light.

Watering

String of Bananas is a drought-tolerant succulent. It stores water in its plump, banana-shaped leaves, so it can survive extended periods without water. The biggest mistake you can make is overwatering. Overwatering causes root rot, mushy leaves, and plant death. It’s much better to underwater than to overwater.

When to Water

Water only when:

The soil is completely dry. Stick your finger into the soil (not just the top surface—go 2 to 3 inches deep). If you feel any moisture, wait. The soil should be bone-dry before you water again.
The leaves start to wrinkle slightly. Gently squeeze a banana-shaped leaf between your fingers. If the leaf feels firm and plump, the plant doesn’t need water yet—wait. If the leaf feels slightly soft or deflated, or if you see faint wrinkles appearing on the surface of the leaves, it’s time to water. The slight wrinkling is the plant’s way of telling you it’s thirsty—this is normal and healthy.

Important: Slight wrinkling is fine and normal. It’s the plant’s water storage running low. However, if the leaves are severely shriveled, wrinkled all over, or deflated like a deflated balloon, you’ve waited too long. Water immediately. The plant will usually recover, but try to water before it gets to this point.

How to Water Properly

Check the soil and leaves first. Don’t water on a fixed schedule (like “every Saturday”). Instead, water based on the plant’s actual needs. Soil dryness and leaf firmness are your best indicators.
Water thoroughly when you do water. When it’s time to water, water thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root system gets hydrated, not just the top layer of soil. Don’t just sprinkle a little water on the surface—this is ineffective and can cause shallow root growth.
Let the water drain completely. After watering, let the pot drain fully. Don’t let the pot sit in a saucer filled with standing water—this keeps the soil wet and increases rot risk. Empty the saucer after 10 to 15 minutes.
Wait for the soil to dry completely before watering again. This is critical. String of Bananas needs a wet-then-dry cycle: thoroughly wet the soil, then let it dry out completely before watering again. This mimics its natural environment (South Africa, where rainfall is sporadic and the soil dries out completely between rains).

Typical Watering Schedule

Spring and summer (active growing season):

Every 2 to 3 weeks on average. However, this varies depending on:
- Light intensity: Brighter light = faster water use = more frequent watering.
- Temperature: Warmer temperatures = faster evaporation = more frequent watering.
- Pot size and material: Small pots dry out faster than large pots. Terracotta pots (porous) dry out faster than plastic or ceramic pots (non-porous).
- Humidity: Dry air (below 40%) = faster evaporation = more frequent watering. Humid air (above 60%) = slower evapation = less frequent watering.
In very bright light and warm temperatures (summer), you may need to water every 10 to 14 days. Always check the soil and leaves first—don’t water on autopilot.

Fall and winter (dormant season):

Every 3 to 4+ weeks on average. Growth slows or stops in fall and winter, and the plant uses water much more slowly. You may need to water only once per month (or less) in winter.
Be especially cautious in winter. Overwatering in winter (when the plant is dormant and using water slowly) is a common cause of root rot. Always check the soil and leaves before watering—if the soil is still moist or the leaves are still plump, wait.

Signs of Overwatering (Most Common Problem)

Overwatering is the #1 killer of String of Bananas. If you overwater, the roots sit in wet soil, suffocate (roots need oxygen), and start to rot. Root rot spreads quickly and can kill the plant within days or weeks.

Symptoms of overwatering or root rot:

Mushy, translucent, or squishy leaves: The banana-shaped leaves lose their firmness and become soft, mushy, or translucent (you can almost see through them). This is a clear sign of rot. The leaves may also turn yellow or brown before becoming mushy.
Leaves falling off easily: The leaves detach from the stem with little to no resistance. You may find leaves scattered around the base of the pot.
Stems turning black or brown: The vines turn dark brown or black near the base (closest to the soil). This is stem rot spreading from the roots upward.
Soil stays wet for 7+ days after watering: If you water and the soil is still wet a week later, the soil is too dense, the pot is too large, or you’re watering too frequently. This creates a rot risk.
Sour or foul smell from the soil: Rotten roots emit a sour, musty, or foul odor. If you smell this, unpot the plant immediately and inspect the roots.
Roots are black, mushy, or slimy: Healthy roots are white, tan, or light brown and firm. Rotten roots are black, mushy, slimy, and may smell bad.

How to fix overwatering or root rot:

Stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out completely.
Unpot the plant and inspect the roots. Gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off the old soil. Look at the roots. If they’re black, mushy, or slimy, you have root rot.
Trim off all rotten roots. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (sterilized with rubbing alcohol) to cut away all black, mushy roots until you reach healthy, firm roots. Be aggressive—it’s better to remove all the rot than to leave any behind.
Let the plant air-dry for 24 to 48 hours. After trimming the roots, let the plant sit out of the pot in a shaded, dry location for 1 to 2 days. This allows the cut roots to callus over (form a protective layer) and reduces the risk of rot spreading when you repot.
Repot in fresh, dry, well-draining soil. Use a cactus/succulent mix (more on this in the Soil section below). Do not reuse the old soil—it may be contaminated with rot-causing pathogens.
Do not water immediately after repotting. Wait 5 to 7 days before watering to give the roots time to heal. Then water lightly (about half the usual amount) and resume normal watering only when the soil is completely dry.
Increase light. Brighter light helps the plant dry out faster and reduces rot risk.

Prevention is easier than cure: Water only when the soil is completely dry and the leaves start to wrinkle. If in doubt, wait another few days. String of Bananas can tolerate underwatering much better than overwatering.

Signs of Underwatering (Rare, Easy to Fix)

Underwatering is much less common than overwatering, and it’s also much easier to fix. String of Bananas is drought-tolerant, so it can handle extended dry periods without permanent damage.

Symptoms of underwatering:

Leaves are shriveled, wrinkled, or deflated: The banana-shaped leaves lose their plumpness and look thin, flat, or wrinkled all over (not just slight wrinkling—severe wrinkling).
Leaves feel soft or deflated when squeezed gently.
Vines look limp or droopy.
Leaves may turn brown or crispy at the tips or edges (if underwatering is prolonged).

How to fix underwatering:

Water thoroughly immediately. Water until water runs out of the drainage holes. The plant will usually recover within 24 to 48 hours. The leaves will plump back up and regain their firmness.
Water more frequently going forward. If the leaves are shriveling, you’re waiting too long between waterings. Water when the soil is dry and the leaves just start to wrinkle slightly (not severely).

Bottom line: It’s better to underwater slightly (slight wrinkling is fine) than to overwater (which causes rot). If in doubt, wait a few more days before watering.

Tips for Watering Success

Use the “squeeze test.” Gently squeeze a banana-shaped leaf between your fingers. If it feels firm and plump, don’t water yet. If it feels slightly soft or deflated, it’s time to water. This is the most reliable indicator.
Don’t water on a fixed schedule. The plant’s water needs vary depending on season, light, temperature, and humidity. Always check the soil and leaves before watering.
When in doubt, wait. String of Bananas is drought-tolerant. If you’re unsure whether to water, wait a few more days. The plant will show you when it’s thirsty (slight wrinkling).
Use pots with drainage holes. Non-draining pots (like decorative ceramic pots without holes) make it nearly impossible to avoid overwatering. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Consider using a moisture meter (optional). If you’re nervous about overwatering, a moisture meter (available online or at garden centers for $10 to $20) can help you check soil moisture levels at different depths. Water only when the meter reads “dry” throughout the pot.

Bottom Line: Watering String of Bananas

Water only when:

The soil is completely dry (stick your finger 2 to 3 inches deep).
The leaves start to wrinkle slightly or feel soft when squeezed gently.

How to water:

Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom.
Let the pot drain completely. Empty the saucer.
Wait for the soil to dry completely before watering again.

Typical schedule:

Spring/summer: Every 2 to 3 weeks (or every 10 to 14 days in very bright light).
Fall/winter: Every 3 to 4+ weeks (or once per month).

Most important: Overwatering is the #1 killer. If in doubt, wait. Slight leaf wrinkling is normal and fine—it’s the plant’s way of telling you it’s ready for water.

Soil and Pot

String of Bananas requires well-draining, gritty soil. Regular potting soil (the kind you’d use for most houseplants) is too dense and holds too much moisture. It will suffocate the roots and cause rot. You must use a soil mix specifically designed for cacti and succulents, or create your own well-draining mix.

Best Soil Mix

Option 1: Pre-made cactus and succulent mix (easiest):

Buy a bag of cactus and succulent potting mix from any garden center or online retailer (brands like Miracle-Gro, Espoma, Hoffman, or Bonsai Jack). These mixes are specifically formulated to drain quickly—they contain sand, perlite, and/or pumice to create large air pockets and prevent water from sitting in the soil.
This is the easiest option and works well for most growers.
Cost: $8 to $15 for a bag (enough for several pots).

Option 2: DIY mix (more control, slightly cheaper):

If you want more control over the soil texture, or if you already have potting soil on hand, you can create your own mix:
- 1 part regular potting soil (provides structure and some nutrients)
- 1 part perlite (lightweight volcanic glass—creates air pockets and improves drainage)
- 1 part coarse sand (builder’s sand or horticultural sand—not fine sand like beach sand, which compacts and doesn’t drain well)
Mix thoroughly and use this as your soil. This 1:1:1 ratio creates a gritty, fast-draining mix that’s perfect for String of Bananas.
Optional addition: Add a handful of small orchid bark chunks (1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces) to the mix for even more drainage and aeration. This mimics the chunky, rocky soil that succulents grow in naturally.

Why well-draining soil is critical:

String of Bananas has shallow, delicate roots that are highly susceptible to rot. If the soil stays wet for more than 3 to 5 days after watering, the roots suffocate (they can’t absorb oxygen when surrounded by water) and start to rot.
Well-draining soil allows water to flow through quickly, so the roots get hydrated but the soil dries out within 2 to 4 days. This wet-then-dry cycle is what the plant needs to thrive.
Never use regular potting soil alone. It’s too dense and holds too much moisture. Even if you water infrequently, the soil will stay wet too long and cause rot.

Pot Requirements

Drainage holes are non-negotiable:

The pot must have drainage holes at the bottom. Without drainage holes, water accumulates at the bottom of the pot and the roots sit in standing water—this is guaranteed root rot.
If you have a decorative pot without drainage holes (like a ceramic or metal planter), use it as a cachepot (outer decorative pot). Place the String of Bananas in a plastic or terracotta nursery pot with drainage holes, and then place that pot inside the decorative pot. After watering, remove the inner pot, let it drain completely, and then place it back inside the decorative pot. Never let the plant sit in standing water.

Terracotta pots are ideal (but not required):

Terracotta (unglazed clay) pots are the best choice for String of Bananas because they’re porous—they allow air and moisture to pass through the walls of the pot. This wicks away excess moisture from the soil and helps the soil dry out faster, reducing rot risk.
Terracotta pots also provide weight and stability, which is helpful for hanging baskets (the plant gets heavy as the vines grow long).
However, terracotta is not required. Plastic or ceramic pots with drainage holes work fine, but the soil will dry out more slowly, so you’ll need to water less frequently.

Pot size:

Don’t use a pot that’s too large. String of Bananas prefers to be slightly root-bound (roots lightly crowded in the pot). A pot that’s too large holds too much soil, which stays wet too long and increases rot risk.
Choose a pot that’s only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the root ball. If you’re repotting, go up one pot size (1 to 2 inches larger), not two or three sizes.
Shallow pots (6 to 8 inches deep) work well because String of Bananas has shallow roots. You don’t need a deep pot.

Hanging baskets or high shelves:

String of Bananas is a trailing plant, so it looks best displayed in a hanging basket or on a high shelf where the vines can cascade downward.
If using a hanging basket, make sure it has drainage holes (or a removable plastic liner with drainage holes). Hang the basket near a bright window (within 3 to 5 feet of an east, south, or west window) to ensure adequate light.

Repotting

When to repot:

String of Bananas grows quickly, so you may need to repot every 1 to 2 years (usually in spring, at the start of the growing season).
Signs it’s time to repot:
- Roots are growing out of the drainage holes.
- The plant is extremely root-bound (roots tightly circling the soil surface or pressing against the sides of the pot).
- The soil dries out very quickly (within 3 to 5 days after watering) even in fall or winter. This means the roots have filled the pot and there’s very little soil left to retain moisture.
- Growth has slowed significantly despite adequate light and water.

How to repot:

Water the plant lightly 1 to 2 days before repotting. This makes it easier to remove the plant from the pot without damaging the roots.
Gently unpot the plant. Turn the pot upside down (supporting the vines with your hand) and tap the bottom to release the root ball. If the plant is stuck, run a knife around the inside edge of the pot to loosen it.
Inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white, tan, or light brown and firm. Trim off any black, mushy, or rotten roots with clean scissors.
Choose a new pot that’s 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter. Fill the bottom with 1 to 2 inches of fresh cactus/succulent mix.
Place the plant in the new pot and fill around it with fresh soil. Firm the soil gently. Don’t pack it down too tightly—you want the soil to stay loose and airy.
Wait 5 to 7 days before watering. This gives the roots time to adjust and reduces shock. Then resume normal watering.

Bottom line: Use well-draining cactus/succulent mix, a pot with drainage holes (terracotta is ideal), and a pot size that’s only 1 to 2 inches larger than the root ball. Never use regular potting soil—it holds too much moisture and causes rot.

Temperature and Humidity

String of Bananas is not fussy about temperature or humidity, which makes it much easier to care for than most tropical houseplants. It’s native to South Africa, where it grows in warm, dry conditions, so it’s well-adapted to typical indoor environments.

Temperature

Ideal temperature range: 60 to 80°F (15 to 27°C).

String of Bananas thrives in typical indoor temperatures. Most homes maintain 65 to 75°F year-round, which is perfect.
It can tolerate brief exposure to temperatures as low as 50°F (10°C), but prolonged exposure to cold (below 50°F for days or weeks) will stress the plant. The growth slows, and the leaves may start to yellow or drop.
String of Bananas is not frost-hardy. Temperatures below 32°F (0°C) will kill the plant. If you live in a climate with cold winters, do not leave String of Bananas outdoors year-round. Bring it indoors before the first frost.

Avoid cold drafts:

Don’t place String of Bananas near cold drafts—such as air conditioning vents (blowing cold air in summer), open windows in winter, or exterior doors that are frequently opened in cold weather.
Cold drafts can cause temperature fluctuations that stress the plant.

Avoid extreme heat:

While String of Bananas tolerates warmth well, avoid placing it near heat sources like heater vents, radiators, space heaters, or directly on top of appliances (like a refrigerator) that generate heat. Excessive heat can dry out the leaves too quickly and cause stress.

Can you grow String of Bananas outdoors?

Yes, in warm climates (USDA zones 9 to 11). If you live in a region where temperatures stay above 50°F year-round, you can grow String of Bananas outdoors in a hanging basket or container. Place it in a location with bright, indirect light or gentle morning sun (avoid hot afternoon sun, which can burn).
In cooler climates (zones 8 and below), grow String of Bananas as a houseplant year-round, or move it outdoors in late spring/summer and bring it back indoors before the first frost in fall.

Humidity

String of Bananas tolerates low humidity beautifully.

Normal household humidity (30 to 50%) is perfect. You don’t need to increase humidity or use a humidifier. In fact, String of Bananas prefers drier air because it’s adapted to arid, semi-desert conditions in South Africa.
Dry air (20 to 40%) is also fine. This makes String of Bananas an excellent choice for homes with forced-air heating (which dries out the air in winter) or dry climates (like the southwestern U.S. or high-altitude regions).
High humidity (60 to 80%+) is not necessary and may increase the risk of fungal issues or rot if the soil stays wet too long. String of Bananas doesn’t need the high humidity that tropical plants (like ferns or calatheas) require.

Bottom line: String of Bananas is one of the least fussy houseplants when it comes to temperature and humidity. As long as you keep it in typical indoor conditions (60 to 80°F, 30 to 50% humidity), it will thrive. No special equipment or adjustments needed.

Fertilizer

String of Bananas is a light feeder—it doesn’t need heavy or frequent fertilization. In fact, over-fertilizing is more harmful than under-fertilizing. Excessive fertilizer causes salt buildup in the soil, which can burn the roots and damage the plant. Less is more when it comes to fertilizing String of Bananas.

When to Fertilize

Fertilize only during the active growing season:

Spring and summer (roughly March through September in the Northern Hemisphere). This is when String of Bananas is actively growing—producing new vines and leaves. Fertilizing during this time supports healthy, vigorous growth.
How often: Fertilize once in spring (March or April) and once in summer (July or August). Two applications per year is sufficient for most String of Bananas plants.
Alternatively, if your plant is growing very vigorously in bright light, you can fertilize every 6 to 8 weeks during the growing season. But don’t fertilize more often than that—it’s unnecessary and increases salt buildup risk.

Do not fertilize in fall and winter:

In fall and winter (roughly October through February), String of Bananas’ growth slows or stops completely. The plant is semi-dormant and doesn’t need nutrients during this time. Fertilizing in fall/winter when the plant isn’t actively growing can cause salt buildup and damage the roots.

What Type of Fertilizer to Use

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (diluted to half strength):

Balanced fertilizer means the NPK ratio (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) is equal or near-equal, such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. This provides a balanced mix of the three primary nutrients plants need.
Liquid fertilizer is easiest to use for succulents because you can dilute it precisely and apply it during watering. Look for liquid houseplant fertilizer or succulent fertilizer at garden centers or online.
Dilute to half strength: Mix the fertilizer according to the package instructions, then dilute it to half the recommended strength. For example, if the label says “1 tablespoon per gallon of water,” use 1/2 tablespoon per gallon instead. Succulents are sensitive to high fertilizer concentrations, so diluting prevents burning the roots.

Succulent-specific fertilizers (optional):

Some brands sell fertilizers specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. These have a lower nitrogen content (which reduces the risk of leggy, weak growth) and are already formulated at a lower concentration. Examples: Schultz Cactus Plus, Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food.
However, regular balanced houseplant fertilizer (diluted to half strength) works just as well and is usually cheaper.

How to Fertilize

Water the plant lightly 1 to 2 days before fertilizing. Never apply fertilizer to completely dry soil—this increases the risk of root burn. The soil should be slightly moist (not wet, but not bone-dry) when you fertilize.
Mix the fertilizer according to the package instructions, then dilute to half strength. For example:
- If the label says “1 teaspoon per gallon of water,” use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.
- If the label says “1 tablespoon per 2 quarts of water,” use 1/2 tablespoon per 2 quarts.
Water the plant with the diluted fertilizer solution. Pour the solution over the soil until it drains from the bottom, just like you would during normal watering. Don’t pour fertilizer directly onto the leaves or vines—this can cause spotting or damage.
Discard any leftover fertilizer solution. Don’t save it for later—it can degrade or become too concentrated. Mix fresh fertilizer each time you apply it.
Resume normal watering after fertilizing. Wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again (same as usual).

Signs Your Plant Needs More Fertilizer (Rare)

Most String of Bananas plants don’t show obvious signs of nutrient deficiency because they’re light feeders and don’t require much fertilization. However, if you notice:

Pale yellow or washed-out leaves (throughout the entire plant, not just the oldest leaves) and the plant is getting adequate light, it may need more nutrients. Try fertilizing once every 6 to 8 weeks during the growing season instead of twice per year.
Extremely slow growth or no growth (despite bright light and proper watering) may indicate nutrient deficiency. Fertilize more frequently.

However, slow growth is often caused by insufficient light, not lack of nutrients. Before assuming the plant needs more fertilizer, make sure it’s getting 4 to 6+ hours of bright light daily.

Signs of Over-Fertilizing

Over-fertilizing is more common than under-fertilizing with succulents, and it can damage the plant.

Symptoms of over-fertilizing:

Brown, crispy edges or tips on the leaves: This is nutrient burn. Excess salts from the fertilizer accumulate in the soil and burn the roots and leaves.
White, crusty buildup on the soil surface or around the pot rim: This is salt buildup from excess fertilizer. It’s a clear sign you’re fertilizing too often or using too strong a concentration.
Leaves turning yellow and dropping: If the plant is getting adequate light but the leaves are yellowing and falling off, over-fertilizing may be the cause (though overwatering is more common).
Stunted or distorted growth: Excessive fertilizer can cause abnormal, twisted, or stunted growth.

How to fix over-fertilizing:

Flush the soil with plain water. Run plain, room-temperature water through the pot 2 to 3 times the pot volume to rinse out accumulated salts. For example, if the pot holds 1 quart of soil, run 2 to 3 quarts of water through it. Let the water drain completely.
Stop fertilizing for 3 to 6 months. Let the plant recover before resuming fertilization.
When you resume fertilizing, use a more diluted solution (1/4 strength instead of 1/2 strength) and fertilize less frequently (once or twice per year).

Bottom Line: Fertilizing String of Bananas

How often: Once in spring and once in summer (or every 6 to 8 weeks during the growing season if the plant is growing vigorously). Skip fall and winter.

What to use: Balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength.

How to apply: Water the plant lightly first, then water with the diluted fertilizer solution.

Most important: Less is more. Over-fertilizing causes more problems than under-fertilizing. If in doubt, fertilize less often or skip it altogether—String of Bananas can thrive without fertilizer if it’s in good soil and bright light.

Pruning

Pruning String of Bananas serves several purposes: controlling length (the vines can get very long—2 to 5+ feet), encouraging bushier growth (more vines and fuller appearance), and removing damaged or unhealthy growth (yellowing leaves, shriveled vines, or pest-damaged sections). Pruning is optional, but it’s a great way to shape the plant and keep it looking its best.

When to Prune

Best time: Spring or early summer (March through June).

This is when String of Bananas is actively growing. Pruning during the growing season stimulates the plant to produce new growth quickly. After pruning, you’ll see new vines emerging from the cut points within 2 to 4 weeks.

Acceptable time: Any time during the growing season (spring through early fall).

You can prune during summer or early fall if needed, but avoid pruning in late fall or winter when the plant is dormant. Pruning during dormancy stresses the plant and new growth won’t appear until spring.

Emergency pruning (anytime):

If you notice rot, severe pest infestation, or diseased sections, prune immediately regardless of the season. It’s better to remove damaged growth right away than to wait for the ideal season.

Why Prune String of Bananas

1. Control length:

String of Bananas can grow 2 to 3+ feet long in one growing season, and mature plants can have vines 4 to 5+ feet long. If the vines are too long for your space (trailing onto the floor, tangling with other plants, or looking unruly), pruning keeps them at a manageable length.

2. Encourage bushier, fuller growth:

Pruning stimulates the plant to produce new growth points. When you cut a vine, the plant responds by sending out new side shoots (branches) from nodes near the cut. This creates a fuller, bushier appearance with more vines instead of a few long, sparse vines.
If your String of Bananas looks sparse or has long, bare stems with few leaves, pruning can fix this. Cut back the long, sparse vines to 6 to 12 inches from the base, and the plant will produce new, compact growth.

3. Remove damaged, yellowing, or unhealthy growth:

If vines are yellowing, shriveled, or damaged (from pests, rot, or physical damage), prune them off. This prevents the damage from spreading and redirects the plant’s energy into healthy growth.
If the plant has suffered root rot and some vines are dying, prune away the affected vines and let the healthy portions recover.

4. Propagate the cuttings:

Don’t throw away the pruned vines! String of Bananas propagates easily from stem cuttings. You can use the cuttings to start new plants, share with friends, or replant them in the same pot to fill in sparse areas. (More on propagation in the next section.)

How to Prune

Tools you’ll need:

Clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Sterilize the blades with rubbing alcohol before cutting to prevent spreading disease or introducing bacteria.

Step-by-step pruning:

Identify which vines to prune. Look for:
- Vines that are too long (longer than you want).
- Sparse, leggy vines with large gaps between leaves (these are the best candidates for pruning—cutting them back encourages bushier growth).
- Yellowing, shriveled, or damaged vines (prune these off entirely).
Decide how much to cut.
- For length control: Cut the vines back to your desired length. You can cut anywhere along the vine—just make sure to cut just above a node (the small bump on the stem where leaves attach). Cutting above a node encourages new growth to emerge from that point.
- For encouraging bushier growth: Cut long, sparse vines back to 6 to 12 inches from the base of the plant (near the soil). This forces the plant to produce multiple new vines from the base, creating a fuller appearance.
- For removing damaged growth: Cut the damaged vine back to healthy growth, or remove the entire vine at the base if it’s severely damaged.
Make the cut. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a clean cut just above a node (1/4 to 1/2 inch above the node). A clean cut heals faster and reduces the risk of infection. Don’t tear or rip the vine—this creates jagged edges that are more prone to rot.
Remove any yellowing or shriveled leaves. As you prune, gently pull off any yellow, brown, or shriveled leaves along the vines. These are dead or dying and won’t recover—removing them improves the plant’s appearance and reduces the risk of rot or pests.
Propagate the cuttings (optional but recommended). If the pruned vines are healthy (not yellowing or rotten), don’t throw them away! Use them to propagate new plants. See the Propagation section below for detailed instructions.

What Happens After Pruning

New growth will appear within 2 to 4 weeks (in spring/summer):

After you prune, the plant will send out new shoots from nodes near the cut points. You’ll see small, new vines emerging within 2 to 4 weeks if the plant is in bright light and actively growing (spring or summer).
If you prune in fall or winter (dormant season), new growth may not appear until spring. This is normal—the plant is conserving energy during dormancy.

The plant will look bushier and fuller:

If you pruned to encourage bushier growth, you’ll see multiple new vines emerging from the base of the plant or from nodes along the remaining vines. Over the next few months, these new vines will grow and fill in the sparse areas, creating a fuller, lusher appearance.

Tips for Pruning Success

Don’t be afraid to prune aggressively. String of Bananas is very resilient. Even if you cut the vines back to 6 inches from the base, the plant will recover and produce new growth quickly (in spring or summer). It’s better to prune too much than too little if you want bushier growth.
Prune regularly for the best shape. If you prune a little bit every few months (during the growing season), you can keep the plant at your desired length and shape without needing to do one massive pruning session.
Sanitize your tools. Always clean your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before and after pruning. This prevents spreading disease or pests between plants.
Propagate the cuttings! Pruning gives you free plants. Don’t throw away healthy cuttings—propagate them and expand your collection or share with friends.

Bottom Line: Pruning String of Bananas

When: Spring or early summer (best), or anytime during the growing season. Avoid late fall/winter (dormant season) unless removing damaged growth.

Why: Control length, encourage bushier growth, remove damaged/yellowing vines, propagate cuttings.

How: Use clean, sharp scissors. Cut just above a node. Remove yellowing leaves. Propagate the healthy cuttings.

Result: New growth appears within 2 to 4 weeks (in spring/summer). The plant becomes bushier and fuller over time.

Propagating String of Bananas

String of Bananas propagates easily from stem cuttings.

How to propagate:

Cut a section of vine (4 to 6 inches)
Remove the bottom leaves
Let cuttings dry for 24 hours (callus over)
Lay on top of moist soil or plant directly
Roots develop in 2 to 4 weeks

String of Bananas roots faster than String of Pearls.

Common Problems

Leggy growth

Not enough light. Move to a brighter spot and prune.

Shriveled, mushy leaves

Overwatering or root rot. Let soil dry completely and reduce watering.

Wrinkled leaves

Underwatering (normal). Water when leaves wrinkle slightly.

Pests

String of Bananas is pest-resistant but can attract mealybugs. Inspect regularly.

String of Bananas vs. String of Pearls

Both are trailing succulents, but String of Bananas is easier.

String of Bananas:

Banana-shaped leaves
More forgiving
Grows faster
Better for beginners

String of Pearls:

Round, bead-like leaves
More sensitive to overwatering
Slower growing

What To Do Next

If you love trailing succulents, try String of Dolphins or String of Pearls
If your String of Bananas is leggy, prune it back and propagate
If you want another easy succulent, try jade plant or aloe vera