Propagate Pothos Cuttings: The One Plant Trick Everyone Should Know

If you have a pothos, you have unlimited pothos.

Propagation is the best kind of plant hobby because it is cheap, it is satisfying, and it makes you look like you know what you are doing. Within 2-3 weeks, you can turn one pothos vine into 5-10 new plants.

Pothos propagation has a 90%+ success rate. Even if you have killed every other plant you have touched, you can propagate pothos. The plant does most of the work - you just cut it, stick it in water, and wait.

This guide covers everything: what pothos are, how to identify nodes, water vs soil propagation methods, rooting timeline, troubleshooting, aftercare, and what to do when you have 30 pothos plants and counting.

What Are Pothos? (Quick Background)

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): A tropical trailing vine with heart-shaped leaves. Native to Southeast Asia. Also called “devil’s ivy” because it is nearly impossible to kill.

Why pothos are perfect for propagation:

Fast-growing (new roots in 7-14 days)
Forgiving (tolerates mistakes)
Thrives in water or soil
Produces lots of vines you can cut without harming the plant
Roots form from nodes (not just the cut end)

Common pothos varieties (all propagate the same way):

Golden pothos: Green leaves with yellow variegation (most common)
Marble Queen: White and green variegation (slower growing)
Neon pothos: Bright chartreuse leaves (no variegation to lose)
Jade pothos: Solid dark green (fastest growing)
Manjula pothos: White, cream, and green variegation (rare, expensive)
Pearls and Jade: Small leaves with white and gray variegation

The Only Rule That Matters: Find the Node

Node: The small bump or joint on the vine where leaves emerge and roots can grow. This is the magic spot. Roots only grow from nodes, not from random spots on the stem.

What a node looks like:

A slightly thicker section of the vine
Often has a small brown nub (aerial root starting to form)
Leaves grow directly above or beside nodes
Spaced 2-6 inches apart along the vine

How to identify a node:

Look at where a leaf meets the vine
The node is the bump/joint at that connection point
Run your finger along the vine - you will feel slight bumps at each node

Why nodes matter:

Roots grow from nodes, not from the cut end of the stem. If you cut a section of vine with no node and stick it in water, nothing will happen. The cutting will sit there looking healthy for weeks, but it will never root.

The rule: Every cutting must have at least one node submerged in water (or buried in soil). The node is where roots form.

Can you have multiple nodes per cutting? Yes! More nodes = more potential root sites = faster, stronger rooting. I usually take cuttings with 2-4 nodes (which means 2-4 leaves).

What You Need (Minimal Supplies)

For water propagation:

Clean scissors or pruning shears
A jar, glass, or vase (clear is best so you can watch roots grow)
Room-temperature water (tap water is fine)
Optional: rooting hormone powder (speeds up rooting by 5-7 days)

For soil propagation:

Clean scissors
Small pot (3-4 inch diameter) with drainage holes
Potting mix (standard potting soil or a mix with perlite)
Optional: clear plastic bag or humidity dome

Cost: $0-5 if you already have jars and scissors. Potting mix is $5-10 per bag. Rooting hormone is optional ($5-10).

Step-by-Step: Water Propagation (Most Popular Method)

Water propagation is the easiest and most popular method because you can watch roots form. It is also more forgiving than soil propagation.

Steps:

Choose a healthy vine. Look for a vine with at least 4-6 leaves and visible nodes. Avoid vines with yellow or brown leaves.
Cut a section with 2-4 leaves. Use clean scissors. Cut about 1/4 inch below a node (this gives you a short stem to submerge in water).
Make sure at least one node will be underwater. If your cutting has multiple nodes, even better - more potential root sites.
Remove the lowest 1-2 leaves. Leaves sitting in water will rot and contaminate the water. Only the node and stem should be submerged. Keep 2-3 leaves above the water line for photosynthesis.
Place cutting in a jar of water. Use enough water to cover the lowest node (usually 2-3 inches of water). The cut end and at least one node should be submerged.
Put the jar in bright, indirect light. A windowsill works well (avoid direct sun - water heats up and encourages algae). East or north-facing windows are ideal.
Change water every 5-7 days. This prevents bacteria growth and keeps oxygen levels high. Use room-temperature tap water. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit overnight before using.
Wait for roots. Roots usually appear within 7-14 days. Small white nubs emerge from the node first, then elongate into roots.
Pot up when roots are 2-4 inches long. See “Moving from Water to Soil” section below.

Timeline:

Day 1-7: No visible change. The cutting is forming internal root tissue at the node.
Day 7-14: Tiny white root nubs appear at the node.
Day 14-21: Roots elongate to 1-3 inches.
Day 21-28: Roots are 2-4 inches long (ready to pot up).

Faster rooting tip: Use rooting hormone powder. Dip the cut end and node in rooting hormone before placing in water. This can speed up rooting by 5-7 days.

Soil Propagation (Faster Overall, Less “Fun”)

Soil propagation skips the water-to-soil transition, which some plants struggle with. Pothos adapt fine to both methods, but soil propagation is faster overall (roots establish directly in their permanent medium).

Steps:

Take a cutting with 2-4 nodes (same as water propagation).
Remove the lowest 1-2 leaves so you have a bare node to bury in soil.
Optional: Dip the cut end and node in rooting hormone powder. This speeds up rooting.
Fill a small pot (3-4 inch diameter) with lightly moist potting mix. The soil should be damp, not soaking wet.
Poke a hole in the soil with your finger or a pencil (about 1-2 inches deep).
Insert the cutting so at least one node is buried in soil. The node is where roots will form.
Firm soil gently around the stem to hold the cutting upright.
Optional: Cover with a clear plastic bag or humidity dome. This creates a mini greenhouse effect and keeps humidity high, which encourages rooting. Leave the bag slightly open for airflow.
Place in bright, indirect light.
Keep soil lightly moist (not soggy) for 2-3 weeks. Water every 3-5 days, just enough to keep soil from drying out completely. Overwatering causes rot.
After 2-3 weeks, tug gently on the cutting. If it resists, roots have formed. If it pulls out easily, give it another week.
Resume normal watering once rooted (let top inch of soil dry between waterings).

Timeline: 2-3 weeks for roots to establish.

Pros of soil propagation:

Skips water-to-soil transition (roots form directly in soil)
Faster overall (cuttings are “done” once rooted in soil - no need to pot up later)
Less risk of forgetting to change water

Cons:

You cannot see when roots form (must test by tugging gently)
Slightly higher risk of overwatering or underwatering during rooting phase
Less satisfying (no watching roots grow)

When to Pot Up (Water-Rooted Cuttings)

Pot up when:

Roots are 2-4 inches long
You see multiple roots growing from the node (3+ roots is ideal)

Do NOT wait for a jungle of roots. Long, tangled roots (6+ inches) are fragile and more likely to break when you plant them. They also struggle to transition to soil because they are heavily adapted to water.

Ideal rooting length: 2-4 inches. Roots are strong enough to anchor the plant but not so long that they break easily.

Moving from Water to Soil (The Part People Mess Up)

Water roots are thin and fragile. They are adapted to constant moisture and direct access to nutrients dissolved in water. Soil roots are thicker and tougher, adapted to searching for water and nutrients in soil.

The problem: Water-rooted cuttings sometimes struggle when moved to soil. They wilt, droop, or leaves turn yellow. This is transplant shock.

How to make the transition gentler:

Use lightly moist soil (not bone-dry, not soaking wet). Moisten potting mix before planting. Squeeze a handful - it should hold together but not drip water.
Plant in a small pot (3-4 inch diameter). Oversized pots hold too much water and increase rot risk.
Firm soil gently around roots to eliminate air pockets.
Water lightly after planting - just enough to settle soil around roots.
Keep soil lightly moist for the first 1-2 weeks. Water every 3-5 days (check soil before watering - top inch should be slightly dry). This gives roots time to adapt to soil without drying out.
After 1-2 weeks, resume normal watering: Let the top inch of soil dry completely before watering.

If the cutting droops after planting:

This is normal. The plant is adjusting from constant water availability to soil. Drooping usually stops within 3-7 days.

What to do:

Keep soil lightly moist (not wet)
Place in bright, indirect light (not direct sun)
Be patient. The plant will recover.

If leaves turn yellow:

One or two yellow leaves during transition is normal. The plant is shedding leaves it cannot support while establishing roots. As long as the stem is firm and green, the plant is fine.

What to do:

Remove yellow leaves
Continue normal care
New growth will appear once roots are established (usually 2-4 weeks after planting)

Troubleshooting: Why Your Cuttings Are Not Rooting

Problem: It has been 3+ weeks and no roots

Possible causes:

No node in water - Check that at least one node is submerged. Roots only grow from nodes, not from the cut end.
Water is too cold - Use room-temperature water. Cold water slows root development.
Not enough light - Move to a brighter spot (but avoid direct sun). Low light = slow rooting.
Stagnant water - Change water every 5-7 days. Stagnant water lacks oxygen and encourages bacteria growth.

What to do: Move to a brighter spot, change water every 3-4 days (instead of weekly), and confirm a node is submerged.

Problem: Cutting is rotting (brown, mushy stem)

Cause: Bacteria or fungus in the water. This happens when water is not changed regularly or when leaves are submerged.

What to do:

Remove the cutting from water
Cut off the rotten section (cut 1 inch above the rot, back to healthy green tissue)
Use fresh water in a clean jar
Remove any leaves that might touch water
Change water every 3-4 days

Prevention: Change water regularly and keep leaves above the water line.

Problem: Leaves are turning yellow

Causes:

Normal aging - Older leaves yellow and drop. As long as the stem is healthy, this is fine.
Not enough light - Move to a brighter spot.
Too much direct sun - Move out of harsh sun (causes leaves to bleach or burn).

What to do: If only 1-2 leaves yellow, remove them and continue care. If all leaves are yellowing, move to a different light level.

Problem: Roots are growing but then stop or rot

Cause: Bacteria growth in stagnant water or water temperature too warm (above 75°F).

What to do:

Change water immediately
Trim any brown, mushy roots
Use fresh, room-temperature water
Change water every 3-4 days until roots resume growing

Problem: Cutting looks healthy but never grows new leaves

Cause: Not enough light or nutrients. Cuttings in water can survive for months without growing because they have no access to nutrients beyond what is stored in the existing leaves.

What to do: Move to brighter light. Add a tiny pinch (1/8 teaspoon) of liquid fertilizer to the water every 2-3 weeks. Or pot up into soil where the plant has access to nutrients.

How to Encourage Faster Rooting

1. Use rooting hormone

Rooting hormone powder contains auxins (plant growth hormones) that stimulate root development. Dip the cut end and node in rooting hormone powder before placing in water or soil.

Result: Roots appear 5-7 days faster.

Cost: $5-10 for a container that lasts years.

2. Use warm water (not hot)

Lukewarm water (70-75°F) encourages faster rooting than cold water. Do not use hot water (above 80°F) - this stresses the cutting.

3. Add a tiny amount of willow water

Willow branches contain natural rooting hormones. Soak willow branches in water for 24 hours, then use that water for propagation.

Does it work? Sort of. Rooting hormones in willow water are weaker than commercial rooting hormone, but it is a free, natural option.

4. Provide bright, indirect light

More light = more photosynthesis = more energy for root development. Place cuttings near a window (but not in direct sun).

5. Keep water clean

Change water every 5-7 days to prevent bacteria growth. Bacteria compete with the cutting for oxygen and can slow rooting.

6. Use cuttings with aerial roots already forming

Some pothos vines have small brown nubs at nodes (aerial roots starting to form). These cuttings root faster because the root structure is already initiated.

Common Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

1. Submerging leaves in water

Leaves sitting in water rot and contaminate the water with bacteria.

Fix: Remove the lowest 1-2 leaves so only the stem and node are submerged. Keep leaves above the water line.

2. No node in the water

Roots only grow from nodes. If you cut a section of stem with no node, it will never root.

Fix: Always cut below a node. Check that at least one node is submerged in water.

3. Putting cuttings in harsh, direct sun

Direct sun heats up the water (encourages algae and bacteria) and can burn leaves.

Fix: Bright, indirect light is ideal. East or north-facing windows work well.

4. Forgetting to change the water

Stagnant water grows bacteria, smells bad, and reduces oxygen available to the cutting.

Fix: Change water every 5-7 days. Use room-temperature tap water.

5. Potting into a huge pot

Small roots in a large pot = too much wet soil = rot risk.

Fix: Use a 3-4 inch pot for a single cutting. Only repot into a larger pot after the plant has filled the small pot with roots (6-12 months).

6. Overwatering after potting up

Water-rooted cuttings need time to adapt to soil. Overwatering during this transition causes rot.

Fix: Water lightly after planting, then keep soil lightly moist (not wet) for the first 1-2 weeks. After that, let the top inch of soil dry before watering.

7. Taking cuttings from an unhealthy plant

Yellow, brown, or pest-infested vines produce weak cuttings that struggle to root.

Fix: Only take cuttings from healthy, green vines with no pests or disease.

Aftercare for Propagated Pothos (First 4-6 Weeks)

For water-rooted cuttings (after potting up):

Light: Bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun for the first 2 weeks while roots adjust to soil.

Water: Keep soil lightly moist for the first 1-2 weeks (water every 3-5 days). After 2 weeks, let the top inch of soil dry before watering.

Fertilizer: Do not fertilize for the first 4-6 weeks. Roots are sensitive to fertilizer salts while establishing. After 6 weeks, fertilize monthly with diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength).

Humidity: Normal home humidity (40-60%) is fine. Pothos tolerate dry air well.

Temperature: 65-80°F. Keep away from cold drafts or heating vents.

For soil-rooted cuttings:

Same care as above. Once roots are established (test by tugging gently - if the cutting resists, roots have formed), resume normal pothos care.

What to expect:

Weeks 1-2: Cutting adjusts to soil. May droop slightly or drop 1-2 leaves. This is normal.
Weeks 2-4: Roots establish. Plant looks stable and perks up.
Weeks 4-6: New growth begins. You will see a new leaf unfurling from the tip of the vine.
Months 2-6: Plant grows steadily. Vines elongate 6-12 inches per month in spring/summer.

What To Do With Dozens of Propagated Pothos

Pothos propagate so easily that you will quickly have more plants than you need. One mature pothos can produce 10-30 cuttings.

Options for excess propagations:

1. Combine multiple cuttings in one pot for a fuller plant

Instead of planting one cutting per pot, plant 3-5 cuttings in one pot (6-8 inch diameter). This creates a full, bushy plant much faster than growing a single cutting.

How to do it:

Root 3-5 cuttings in water (or take cuttings and propagate directly in soil)
Plant all cuttings together in one pot
Space them evenly around the edge of the pot
Result: A full, cascading pothos in 2-3 months

2. Give them away

Free plants are excellent gifts. Friends, neighbors, coworkers, mail carriers - everyone likes a free pothos.

Pro tip: Root a cutting in a cute jar or mug, tie a ribbon around it, and give it as a gift. Include care instructions (bright indirect light, change water weekly or pot up when roots are 2-3 inches long).

3. Trade on plant swap groups

Join local plant swap groups on Facebook, Reddit, or Nextdoor. Trade pothos cuttings for other plants (philodendron, spider plant, succulents, etc.).

4. Sell them

Rooted pothos cuttings sell for $3-8 each depending on variety and size. List on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or at local farmers’ markets.

Rare varieties (Manjula, Pearls and Jade, Cebu Blue) sell for $10-20 per cutting.

5. Use them to fill empty spots in your home

Pothos look great in hanging baskets, on shelves, trailing down bookcases, or climbing moss poles. Use your propagated cuttings to add greenery to every room.

6. Leave them in water indefinitely

Pothos can live in water permanently. Change water weekly and add a tiny pinch of liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks. They grow slower than in soil, but they survive.

My approach: I keep 3-4 pothos plants, give away 10-15 cuttings per year, and compost the rest. I do not feel obligated to root every cutting I take when pruning. That is too much.

What To Do Next

If you loved pothos propagation, try these next:

Philodendron propagation: Nearly identical to pothos. Cut below a node, root in water, pot up. Same timeline (7-14 days for roots).
Tradescantia (wandering jew) propagation: Even easier than pothos. Roots in 5-10 days. Grows fast.
String of hearts propagation: Slightly more advanced. Root leaf cuttings in soil or butterfly method (cutting with tuber attached).
Monstera propagation: Same method as pothos but slower (3-6 weeks for roots). More satisfying because mature monsteras are expensive.

If you want to level up your pothos care:

Learn how to prune pothos to encourage branching: Cut vines just above a node. New growth emerges from the cut point, making the plant bushier.
Train pothos to climb a moss pole: Attach vines to a moss pole with clips or twine. Pothos grown vertically produce larger leaves (mature form).
Experiment with different pothos varieties: Marble Queen, Neon, Jade, Manjula, Pearls and Jade - collect them all.

Pothos propagation is the gateway drug to plant hoarding. You have been warned.