Why Your Pothos Is Turning Yellow (And How to Fix It)

Pothos are supposed to be unkillable. That’s their whole reputation—the plant that thrives on neglect, the beginner’s best friend, the one that survives in office cubicles with fluorescent lights and sad vibes.

So when your pothos starts turning yellow, it feels personal. Like you failed at the easiest plant assignment ever.

But here’s the truth: Yellow leaves aren’t always a sign you messed up. Sometimes it’s normal. Sometimes it’s fixable. And sometimes, yeah, you overwatered. Let’s figure out which one it is.

The “Everything Is Fine” Yellowing

Bottom leaves turning yellow one at a time? That’s just aging. Older leaves eventually yellow and drop off to make room for new growth. This is completely normal, especially on mature plants.

What to do: Nothing. Just pluck off the yellow leaf once it’s fully crispy and move on with your life.

How to tell it’s normal: The rest of the plant looks healthy, new growth is coming in, and only the lowest, oldest leaves are affected.

The “You’re Drowning Me” Yellowing

This is the most common cause. Pothos can handle a lot, but sitting in soggy soil? Nope.

Signs of overwatering:

• Multiple leaves turning yellow at once, not just old ones
• Leaves feel soft and mushy
• Soil is constantly wet
• Roots look brown and slimy (root rot)
• The plant smells funky

What to do:

1. Stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out completely.

2. Check the roots. Pop the plant out of its pot. Healthy roots are white or light tan. Rotted roots are brown, black, or mushy. If you see rot, trim off the dead roots with clean scissors.

3. Repot if needed. If the soil is staying wet for weeks, it might be too dense. Repot in fresh, well-draining soil (add perlite if needed).

4. Adjust your watering schedule. Only water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Stick your finger in—if it’s damp, wait.

5. Make sure the pot has drainage. If water can’t escape, you’re setting yourself up for root rot.

The “I’m Thirsty” Yellowing

Wait, underwatering also causes yellow leaves? Yep. Plants are confusing.

Signs of underwatering:

• Leaves turn yellow but feel dry and crispy, not mushy
• Soil is bone dry and pulling away from the pot edges
• The plant looks droopy overall
• Lower leaves yellow first, but new growth also looks sad

What to do:

1. Water deeply. Drench the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. Let it soak in.

2. Water more consistently. Pothos like to dry out between waterings, but they don’t want to stay dry for weeks. Aim for watering every 7-10 days in most conditions.

3. Consider bottom watering. If the soil got so dry it’s repelling water, set the pot in a shallow tray of water for 10-15 minutes so it can soak up moisture from the bottom.

The “Wrong Light” Yellowing

Pothos are marketed as low-light plants, but they actually prefer bright, indirect light. Too little light or too much direct sun can both cause yellowing.

Signs of light issues:

• Too much light: Yellow leaves on the side facing the window, sometimes with brown scorched spots.
• Too little light: Pale, washed-out yellow leaves, leggy growth, small new leaves.

What to do:

1. Move it. Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot—near a window but not in direct sun. North or east-facing windows are great.

2. Avoid harsh afternoon sun. If your pothos is in a south or west window, move it back a few feet or use a sheer curtain.

3. Add more light if it’s too dark. If your space is dim, consider a grow light. Pothos can survive low light but won’t thrive.

The “Nutrient Deficiency” Yellowing

If your pothos has been in the same pot for years and hasn’t been fertilized, it might be hungry.

Signs of nutrient issues:

• Yellowing starts with the older leaves
• Leaves turn yellow but veins stay green (classic nitrogen deficiency)
• Plant looks generally lackluster despite good watering/light

What to do:

1. Fertilize. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength. Fertilize once a month during spring and summer, skip in fall/winter.

2. Don’t overdo it. Too much fertilizer causes brown, crispy leaf tips. If that happens, flush the soil with water to wash out excess salts.

3. Repot if it’s been years. Fresh soil = fresh nutrients.

The “Pests Are Eating Me” Yellowing

Spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips can all cause yellowing leaves. Check closely.

Signs of pests:

• Yellowing leaves with tiny holes or stippling
• Webbing (spider mites)
• White cottony stuff on stems (mealybugs)
• Tiny black or brown bugs crawling around

What to do:

1. Isolate the plant. Don’t let pests spread to your other plants.

2. Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Repeat every 5-7 days until pests are gone.

3. Wipe down the leaves. Use a damp cloth to physically remove pests.

4. Check your other plants. Pests love to travel.

The “Temperature Shock” Yellowing

Pothos hate sudden temperature changes. Cold drafts, hot air vents, or moving from indoors to outdoors can stress them out.

What to do:

• Keep them away from air conditioners, heaters, and drafty windows.
• Avoid putting them outside in temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
• Let them adjust gradually if you’re moving them to a new spot.

Quick Diagnosis Cheat Sheet

What I Learned the Hard Way

I killed my first pothos by overwatering. I thought “easy to care for” meant “water it a lot,” so I kept the soil damp 24/7. It rotted within a month.

My second pothos, I overcompensated. I watered it once a month and wondered why it looked sad. Turns out “low maintenance” doesn’t mean “ignore completely.”

Now I water mine when the leaves start to feel less firm—they get a little soft when they’re thirsty. I check the soil first, but honestly, the leaves tell me everything I need to know.

The Bottom Line

Yellow leaves are a message, not a death sentence. Pothos are forgiving—they’ll bounce back from most mistakes as long as you course-correct.

If your plant is mostly yellow, root rot might have gone too far. In that case, propagate the healthy stems in water and start fresh. At least you’ll get a new plant out of it.

And if all else fails? Get another pothos and try again. They’re like $5. You’ve got this.