Why Your Monstera Has No Splits (And How to Fix It)

You bought a monstera because you wanted those iconic split leaves. The ones you see all over Instagram. The ones that look like tropical Swiss cheese.

But your monstera has been growing for six months and every new leaf comes out smooth and solid. No splits. No fenestrations. Just boring, regular leaves.

What gives?

Why Monsteras Split Their Leaves

First, let’s talk about why monsteras split at all. It’s not just for Instagram aesthetics.

In their native tropical rainforests, monsteras are climbing vines that grow up trees toward the sunlight. The splits (called “fenestrations”) help the plant:

Allow wind to pass through without tearing the leaves
Let light reach lower leaves on the same plant
Reduce water weight on large leaves during heavy rain

So splits are a sign of maturity and strength. A monstera that’s thriving in bright light and climbing upward will produce heavily fenestrated leaves. A monstera struggling to survive will produce small, solid leaves to conserve energy.

Your plant is telling you something.

Reason #1: Not Enough Light

This is the number one reason monsteras don’t split.

Monsteras need bright, indirect light to produce fenestrations. In low light, they’ll survive but they won’t thrive. The plant conserves energy by producing smaller, simpler leaves without splits.

Signs your monstera needs more light:

New leaves are smaller than old leaves
Leaves are solid green with no splits
Long gaps between leaves (leggy growth)
Plant is leaning hard toward the window

How to fix it:

Move it closer to a window (within 3-5 feet of an east or south-facing window is ideal)
Use sheer curtains to filter harsh afternoon sun
Rotate the plant weekly so all sides get even light
Consider a grow light if your home has limited natural light

Pro tip: If you move your monstera to brighter light, it won’t retroactively split existing leaves. But new growth should show fenestrations within a few months.

Reason #2: The Plant Is Too Young

Baby monsteras don’t have splits. Even in perfect conditions, a monstera needs to mature before it starts producing fenestrated leaves.

What counts as “too young”:

Plants with fewer than 4-5 leaves
Plants less than a year old
Plants propagated from cuttings (they need time to establish)

Timeline expectations:

First few leaves: Always solid
After 6-12 months with good care: Small holes appear in the center of leaves
After 1-2 years: Deep splits along the edges of leaves
After 2-3+ years: Large, heavily fenestrated leaves

Be patient. Give your monstera bright light, consistent care, and time. Splits will come.

Reason #3: No Support Structure

Monsteras are vines. In the wild, they climb up trees. When they climb, they produce larger, more fenestrated leaves because they’re reaching toward light.

If your monstera is sitting in a pot with no support, it thinks it’s still on the ground searching for something to climb. It’ll produce smaller, less split leaves.

How to fix it:

Add a moss pole, bamboo stake, or trellis for the monstera to climb
Use soft plant ties or velcro strips to attach stems to the support
Mist the moss pole regularly so aerial roots can attach
As the plant climbs, it’ll produce bigger leaves with more splits

Pro tip: The higher the monstera climbs, the bigger and more fenestrated the leaves get. A monstera on a 6-foot moss pole will blow away a monstera lying flat in a pot.

Reason #4: Inconsistent Watering

Monsteras like soil that dries out slightly between waterings. If you’re overwatering or underwatering, the plant is stressed and won’t put energy into making fancy split leaves.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves
Mushy stems
Soil stays wet for more than a week

Signs of underwatering:

Brown, crispy leaf edges
Drooping leaves
Soil is bone dry and pulling away from the pot

How to water correctly:

Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil
If it’s dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Let it drain completely - never let it sit in standing water
Wait until the top 2 inches of soil dry out again before watering

How often? Usually once a week in spring/summer, every 10-14 days in fall/winter. But always check the soil first instead of following a rigid schedule.

Reason #5: Poor Soil or Root-Bound Pot

If your monstera’s roots are cramped or the soil is old and compacted, the plant can’t access nutrients and water efficiently. Stressed plants don’t split leaves.

Signs your monstera needs repotting:

Roots growing out of drainage holes
Water sits on top of the soil instead of absorbing
Plant is top-heavy and tips over easily
Growth has stalled even with good light and water

How to repot:

Choose a pot 2 inches larger than the current one with drainage holes
Use a well-draining potting mix (standard potting soil + perlite or orchid bark)
Gently loosen the root ball and trim any dead/rotting roots
Plant at the same depth as before
Water thoroughly and let drain

Best time to repot: Spring, when growth is most active.

Reason #6: Low Humidity

Monsteras are tropical plants. They love humidity. In dry air, they focus energy on survival rather than producing large, split leaves.

Ideal humidity: 60%+ is best, but they’ll tolerate 40-50%.

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges
New leaves come out small and don’t unfurl properly
Leaf tips turn brown despite correct watering

How to increase humidity:

Group plants together (they create a microclimate)
Use a humidifier near the plant
Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (pot should sit above water, not in it)
Mist the moss pole (if you’re using one) to encourage aerial roots

What doesn’t work: Misting the leaves. It only raises humidity for a few minutes and can promote fungal issues.

Reason #7: Lack of Nutrients

If your monstera has been in the same soil for over a year without fertilizer, it might be nutrient-deficient. Hungry plants don’t split leaves.

How to fertilize:

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (20-20-20 or similar)
Dilute to half strength
Fertilize once a month during spring and summer
Skip fertilizer in fall and winter when growth slows

Warning: Too much fertilizer can burn roots and cause brown leaf tips. Less is more.

What to Expect After You Make Changes

If you fix the light, watering, and support issues, your monstera will respond with better growth. But don’t expect immediate results.

Timeline:

1-2 months: New leaves will be larger and healthier-looking
3-4 months: Small holes may appear in the center of new leaves
6-12 months: Deep splits along leaf edges should develop

The key is consistency. Keep giving your monstera what it needs and it’ll reward you with those iconic split leaves.

Common Mistakes

Cutting existing leaves to “encourage splits.” Doesn’t work. Leaves don’t split after they unfurl. Only new growth will show fenestrations.

Over-fertilizing to force splits. You’ll burn the roots and stress the plant. Slow and steady wins the race.

Expecting splits immediately after repotting. The plant needs time to settle and establish roots first. Be patient.

Moving the plant constantly. Pick a good spot with bright, indirect light and leave it there. Monsteras don’t like being shuffled around.

Why Splits Matter (And Why They Don’t)

Here’s the thing: splits are a sign of a happy, thriving monstera. But a monstera without splits can still be a perfectly healthy plant.

If your monstera is growing steadily, producing new leaves, and looks green and vibrant, it’s doing fine. Splits will come with time and the right conditions.

But if your monstera is stalled, producing tiny leaves, or generally looking sad, that’s when you need to troubleshoot.

My own monstera spent the first year producing solid leaves. I almost gave up on it. Then I moved it closer to the window, added a moss pole, and started fertilizing regularly. Six months later, it put out a leaf with three splits. Now every new leaf is bigger and more dramatic than the last.

It just needed time. And better care.

The Bottom Line

If your monstera isn’t splitting, it’s usually a light problem. Move it closer to a bright window, give it a moss pole to climb, and be patient.

Don’t expect miracles overnight. Monsteras are slow growers. But once they hit their stride, they’re unstoppable.

And when that first split leaf unfurls, you’ll understand why everyone obsesses over these plants.