Monstera Peru Care: The Thick-Leaved Climbing Monstera

Monstera Peru (Monstera karstenianum, also sold as Monstera sp. ‘Peru’) is one of the most unique and underrated monsteras you can grow indoors—and it couldn’t be more different from the iconic Monstera deliciosa. Instead of massive split leaves, Peru has small (3 to 5 inches long), incredibly thick, leathery leaves with a deeply puckered, almost embossed or quilted texture. The leaves are stiff, dark green, and feel more like reptilian skin or thick leather than typical plant leaves. The texture is so pronounced that the leaves look three-dimensional, like they’ve been stamped with a pattern. It’s absolutely unique in the houseplant world.

Monstera Peru is a climbing plant—in nature, it climbs up trees in the rainforests of Central and South America. Unlike bushy or trailing plants, Peru grows vertically on a support structure (moss pole, trellis, plank) and looks best when allowed to climb. As it climbs and matures, the leaves get slightly larger and more textured. Without support, it becomes leggy and sparse.

Why Monstera Peru is unique and worth growing:

The texture is unreal: The thick, puckered, embossed leaves are unlike any other monstera or houseplant. Each leaf looks like it’s been sculpted. The texture is the main reason people grow this plant—it’s a tactile and visual showstopper.
Compact climbing habit: Peru doesn’t take up much horizontal space. It grows vertically on a moss pole or trellis, making it perfect for tight spaces, shelves, or corners where you want height without width.
Fast-growing (with support): When given a moss pole and bright light, Peru grows quickly—you can see several inches of new growth per week during the growing season. New leaves emerge frequently.
No splits or fenestrations: Unlike Monstera deliciosa or adansonii, Peru’s leaves stay solid and uncut at all stages. This gives it a clean, sculptural look that’s very different from the “monstera” aesthetic most people expect.
Moderately easy: Peru is easier than high-humidity anthuriums or delicate calatheas, but it’s pickier than a Pothos or Monstera deliciosa. The main challenges are providing enough light and a proper support structure.

Monstera Peru vs. other climbing monsteras:

Peru: Small, thick, heavily textured leaves (3 to 5 inches). Compact climbing habit. No splits. Texture is the main feature.
Monstera siltepecana: Silvery-green leaves with white/silver variegation when young, solid green when mature. Thinner, flatter leaves. Develops splits on mature leaves. Faster-growing.
Monstera adansonii: Thin, delicate leaves with holes (fenestrations) throughout. Trailing or climbing habit. Faster-growing and more common.
Monstera deliciosa: Massive, iconic split leaves (12 to 36 inches). Upright, self-supporting. Completely different aesthetic and care.

All need bright indirect light and support (except deliciosa, which is self-supporting), but Peru is the only one with that thick, embossed texture.

If you want a unique, sculptural climbing plant that’s moderately easy to grow and doesn’t need huge amounts of space, Monstera Peru is an excellent choice. Let’s talk about how to grow it successfully.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light
Water: When top 2 inches of soil are dry
Humidity: 50 to 70 percent (moderate to high)
Support: Needs moss pole or trellis to climb
Biggest mistake: Too little light or no support

Light

Monstera Peru needs bright, indirect light to grow well, maintain its thick textured leaves, and produce consistent new growth. This is critical—in adequate light, Peru grows quickly and produces that signature embossed texture. In low light, growth slows dramatically, leaves become smaller and thinner (losing the impressive texture), and the plant becomes leggy and sparse.

Best light:

East-facing window: Gentle morning sun (even a little direct morning sun is usually fine for Peru) followed by bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal—enough light to fuel fast growth without risk of leaf burn.
A few feet back from a south or west-facing window: Where the plant gets bright ambient light all day but no direct afternoon sun hitting the leaves. South or west direct sun is too intense and can scorch the leaves.
North-facing window (only if very bright): Can work in some cases, though growth will be slower than in an east window.

Why bright indirect light matters for Monstera Peru:

Faster growth: In bright light, Peru can produce several inches of new vertical growth per week during spring and summer, with new leaves emerging every 1 to 3 weeks. In low light, growth slows to a crawl—maybe one new leaf every 1 to 2 months.
Thicker, more textured leaves: The thick, puckered, embossed texture that makes Peru special is most pronounced in bright light. In low light, leaves become thinner, flatter, and less textured—the plant loses its unique appeal.
Larger leaves: While Peru’s leaves stay relatively small compared to other monsteras (3 to 5 inches), they’re largest in bright light. In low light, leaves may stay 1 to 2 inches.
Climbing habit: Peru climbs more vigorously in bright light. In low light, it struggles to produce the energy needed for vertical growth.

What happens in low light:

Leggy, stretched growth: The most obvious sign. The spaces between leaves (internodes) become very long (4 to 8 inches or more instead of 1 to 3 inches), making the plant look sparse and stretched. This is the classic etiolation (stretching toward light) response.
Smaller, thinner leaves: Leaves stay small (1 to 2 inches) and lose the thick, puckered texture. They become flatter and less impressive.
Slower growth: New leaves emerge much less frequently.
Plant becomes sparse and unattractive: Instead of a lush, full climbing plant, you get a leggy, sparse vine with small leaves spaced far apart.

Can you use grow lights? Yes! If you don’t have a bright window, a full-spectrum LED grow light placed 12 to 18 inches above the plant for 12 to 14 hours per day works great. This is especially helpful in winter when natural light is weak.

Signs of too much light (direct afternoon sun):

Faded, pale, or yellowish leaves: The deep green becomes washed out or pale. The plant looks stressed.
Brown edges or patches: Direct hot sun can scorch the leaves, causing permanent brown damage. Even though Peru’s leaves are thick, they can still burn.
Leaves lose their glossy sheen: Healthy Peru leaves have a subtle satin-like sheen. Sun-damaged leaves look dull and damaged.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light (or gentle morning sun) is the sweet spot. An east window is ideal. If your Peru is leggy with small, thin leaves, the first fix is always more light.

Watering

Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Monstera Peru likes consistent moisture but does not tolerate soggy or waterlogged soil—it’s prone to root rot if overwatered. Getting watering right is about finding the balance between keeping the soil lightly moist and avoiding wet, suffocating conditions.

How to water:

Check the top 2 inches of soil with your finger. Stick your finger into the soil up to your second knuckle. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp or moist, wait another day or two.
Water thoroughly until water runs freely out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture and flushes out any accumulated salts from fertilizer.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this is a fast track to root rot.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 5 to 7 days, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and soil mix. In very bright, warm conditions, you might water every 5 days. In cooler or shadier conditions, every 7 to 10 days.
Fall and winter (slower growth): Every 10 to 14 days, or even less frequently. The plant uses much less water when it’s not actively growing, and in lower light and cooler temperatures, soil stays moist longer.

Why chunky, well-draining soil is critical:

Monstera Peru (like most aroids—the plant family that includes pothos, philodendrons, and monsteras) has roots that need both moisture and oxygen. If the soil stays waterlogged, the roots suffocate and rot. This is why you need a chunky soil mix with lots of perlite, orchid bark, and other amendments that create air pockets. Chunky soil drains quickly, preventing water from sitting around the roots for too long.

Regular potting soil is too dense for Peru. It holds water for too long and compacts over time, squeezing out air pockets. This leads to root rot and yellowing leaves. Always use a well-draining aroid mix (see Soil section).

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (usually starting at the bottom and progressing upward)
Soft, mushy stems at the base of the plant
Soil stays wet for 10+ days after watering
Soil smells sour or rotten
Roots are black and mushy instead of white or tan and firm (visible if you unpot the plant)

If you’re overwatering, the roots rot and can’t absorb water or nutrients. The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings, improve drainage by adding more perlite and orchid bark to your soil mix, make sure the pot has drainage holes, and consider repotting if root rot has set in (cut away black, mushy roots and repot in fresh, chunky soil).

Signs of underwatering (less common for Peru):

Drooping, limp leaves
Leaves feel soft or wilted
Soil is bone dry several inches down
Leaves curl inward slightly

If you’re underwatering, the fix is simple: Water more frequently and more thoroughly.

Watering tip for climbing plants: When Peru is growing up a moss pole, you also need to keep the moss pole moist (more on this in the Support Structure section). The aerial roots (roots that grow from the stem and attach to the pole) absorb moisture from the pole, supplementing the roots in the soil. Spray or water the moss pole regularly so it stays damp but not dripping wet.

Bottom line: Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry, use chunky well-draining soil, and always let excess water drain completely. When in doubt, wait another day before watering—Peru handles slight underwatering better than overwatering.

Humidity

Monstera Peru prefers moderate to high humidity, though it’s more forgiving than finicky plants like calatheas or large-leaved anthuriums. It can tolerate normal household humidity (40 to 50 percent) but thrives in 50 to 70 percent humidity.

Ideal humidity: 50 to 70 percent.

What different humidity levels mean for Peru:

60 to 70 percent (optimal): The plant thrives. Leaves are thick, glossy, and perfect with no browning. New leaves unfurl smoothly. Growth is fast and consistent. This is the humidity level in the plant’s native tropical rainforest habitat.
50 to 60 percent (good): The plant does well. You might see occasional minor browning on older leaf tips, but overall the plant looks healthy and grows steadily. This is a good target for most homes.
40 to 50 percent (tolerable): The plant survives and grows, but you’ll likely see some brown edges on leaves, and new leaves may be slightly smaller. Growth is slower. Most homes sit in this range without added humidity.
Below 40 percent (stressed): Brown, crispy edges become more pronounced. New leaves may emerge smaller. Growth slows noticeably. Spider mites may appear (they thrive in dry air).

The good news: Peru is much more tolerant of average household humidity (40 to 50 percent) than plants like calatheas (which need 60 to 80 percent minimum). You can grow Peru successfully without a humidifier in many homes, though adding humidity will give you better results.

How to increase humidity (if needed):

1. Use a humidifier (most effective):

A cool-mist humidifier placed near your Peru (and other humidity-loving plants) is the most reliable way to raise humidity. Run it during the heating season (fall through spring) when indoor air is driest.
How much does it help? A humidifier can raise humidity from 30 to 40 percent up to 50 to 60 percent in the immediate area.
Cost: $25 to $50 for a basic model. Worth it if you have a collection of tropical plants.

2. Group with other plants:

Plants release moisture through transpiration (evaporation from leaves). Grouping multiple plants together creates a slightly more humid microclimate.
Does it work? It helps a little (maybe raises humidity by 5 to 10 percent), but it’s not as effective as a humidifier.

3. Place in a naturally humid room:

Bathrooms (especially if you shower regularly) and kitchens tend to be more humid than other rooms. If your bathroom has adequate light, it can be a great spot for Peru.

Why pebble trays don’t work: The idea is to place the pot on a tray of pebbles and water (with the pot sitting on the pebbles above the water line). As the water evaporates, it’s supposed to raise humidity. In reality, the water surface area is too small to make a meaningful difference (maybe 1 to 2 percent increase at most). It’s not worth the effort and creates a breeding ground for fungus gnats. Skip it.

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips: The most common sign. The edges of the thick leaves dry out and turn brown.
Smaller new leaves: In low humidity, the plant conserves resources and produces smaller leaves.
Spider mites: These tiny pests thrive in hot, dry conditions and love to attack stressed plants. You’ll see fine webbing on stems and leaves.

Bottom line: Peru is more forgiving of average household humidity than many tropical plants, but it does best in 50 to 70 percent humidity. If you’re seeing brown edges, consider adding a humidifier—but don’t stress if your humidity is 40 to 50 percent. Focus on getting light and support right first, then optimize humidity.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, chunky soil.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Support Structure (Critical for Healthy Growth)

Monstera Peru is a climbing plant—this is not optional or cosmetic. In nature, Peru climbs up trees using aerial roots that attach to bark. Without vertical support, the plant becomes leggy, sparse, and unattractive, with long spaces between small leaves. With proper support, Peru transforms into a lush, full climbing plant with larger leaves and compact growth. This is the single most important thing many people get wrong with climbing monsteras.

Why Peru needs to climb:

Larger leaves: When Peru climbs, the leaves get progressively larger and more textured as the plant matures. Without support, leaves stay small (1 to 2 inches instead of 3 to 5 inches).
Compact, full growth: Climbing plants produce shorter internodes (spaces between leaves) when they’re climbing vertically. This makes the plant look full and lush rather than leggy and sparse.
Stronger growth: Climbing triggers the plant’s natural growth pattern. Aerial roots attach to the support, absorb moisture and nutrients, and help the plant grow more vigorously.
Mimics natural habitat: In the wild, Peru climbs trees. Providing support allows it to grow the way it’s evolved to grow.

Best support structures:

1. Moss pole (coco coir or sphagnum moss) — BEST OPTION:

A moss pole is a stake wrapped in coco coir or sphagnum moss. The moss stays moist, and the aerial roots grow into it, attaching the plant and absorbing moisture.
Why it’s best: The moist moss mimics tree bark. Aerial roots love it. It’s natural, functional, and aesthetically pleasing.
Where to buy: Available at garden centers or online ($10 to $30 depending on height). You can also DIY one using a wooden stake or PVC pipe wrapped in sphagnum moss or coco coir.
Height: Start with a 2 to 3-foot pole. You can extend it or add another pole on top as the plant grows.

2. Wooden plank or bark slab:

A rough-textured wooden plank or piece of bark (like cork bark or driftwood) gives aerial roots something to grip.
Pros: Natural look, sturdy, no need to keep it moist.
Cons: Harder to find and more expensive than moss poles.

3. Trellis or wire frame:

A bamboo trellis, wire frame, or even a simple stake can work in a pinch.
Pros: Easy to find, cheap, works okay for support.
Cons: The stems need to be tied to the support (aerial roots won’t attach naturally like they do with moss or wood). Growth may not be as vigorous.

How to train Monstera Peru to climb:

Insert the support structure into the pot when you pot or repot the plant. Push it deep into the soil (4 to 6 inches) so it’s stable and won’t tip over.
Gently guide the main stem(s) to the support. Use soft ties, plant clips, or twist ties to loosely attach the stem to the pole. Don’t tie too tightly—you want to guide, not strangle.
Attach the stem every 3 to 6 inches as it grows. This keeps the plant upright and encourages aerial roots to grow into the moss or attach to the wood.
Keep the moss pole moist. If you’re using a moss pole, spray or water it regularly (every few days, or whenever it feels dry to the touch). The aerial roots absorb moisture from the moss, which encourages stronger growth and larger leaves. You can use a spray bottle or pour water directly onto the top of the moss pole.
Don’t force aerial roots. They’ll naturally grow toward and into the moss pole over time. You can gently press them against the pole to encourage attachment, but don’t break them.

What happens if you don’t provide support:

The plant becomes leggy, with long spaces (4 to 8+ inches) between small leaves.
Leaves stay small (1 to 2 inches instead of 3 to 5 inches) and lose the thick, textured appearance.
The vines trail or drape rather than climb, and the plant looks sparse and unhealthy.
Growth slows because the plant isn’t getting the environmental cues (climbing) that trigger vigorous growth.

Bottom line: If you’re going to grow Monstera Peru, you need to provide a moss pole or other vertical support. It’s not optional. A moss pole costs $10 to $30 and makes the difference between a sparse, disappointing plant and a lush, impressive climbing showpiece.

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 85 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use balanced liquid fertilizer (diluted to half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Propagating Monstera Peru

Monstera Peru propagates easily from stem cuttings. This is one of the best things about Peru—it roots reliably and quickly, and propagation is a great way to make your plant bushier (by propagating and replanting cuttings in the same pot) or to share with friends.

When to propagate: Spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Cuttings root fastest in warm temperatures (70 to 80°F) with bright light.

How to propagate in water (easiest, 90%+ success rate):

Choose a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump on the stem where leaves and roots emerge) and one or two leaves. The cutting should be 3 to 6 inches long.
Cut just below a node using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. The node is critical—this is where roots will grow from.
Remove the bottom leaf if it would be submerged in water (leaves underwater will rot).
Place the cutting in a jar or glass of water with the node(s) submerged. Use room-temperature tap water or filtered water.
Place in bright, indirect light. A bright windowsill (east or north-facing) works great.
Change the water once a week to keep it fresh and oxygenated.
Wait for roots to grow. You’ll see small white roots emerging from the node within 1 to 2 weeks. Let them grow to 2 to 3 inches long (usually 4 to 6 weeks total) before transplanting.
Transplant to soil once roots are 2 to 3 inches long. Pot in a small pot (4-inch) with chunky, well-draining soil (same mix as the parent plant). Water lightly to settle the soil.
Keep humidity high for the first 1 to 2 weeks after transplanting (you can cover with a clear plastic bag or place in a humid spot). This helps the roots adjust from water to soil.

How to propagate in sphagnum moss (faster rooting, 85 to 90% success):

Cut below a node with at least one leaf, same as above.
Wet sphagnum moss until it’s damp but not dripping. Squeeze out excess water.
Wrap the node in damp moss and place the cutting in a small pot or container with the moss.
Cover with a clear plastic bag or place in a propagation box to maintain high humidity.
Check weekly and mist the moss if it dries out. Keep it consistently damp.
Roots will grow in 2 to 4 weeks. Once you see roots poking out of the moss or the cutting shows new growth, transplant to soil (you can plant the moss and all—no need to remove it).

How to propagate directly in soil (slower, 70 to 80% success):

Cut below a node with at least one leaf.
(Optional) Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder. This increases success rate to 85 to 90 percent.
Stick the cutting into a small pot (4-inch) with damp, chunky soil (same mix as the parent plant). Bury the node 1 to 2 inches deep.
Water lightly to settle the soil.
Cover with a clear plastic bag to maintain high humidity, or place in a naturally humid spot.
Keep the soil lightly moist (not soggy) and check weekly.
Roots will grow in 3 to 6 weeks. You’ll know the cutting has rooted when you see new growth (a new leaf emerging) or when you gently tug and feel resistance.

Pro tips:

Take multiple cuttings to increase your chances of success and to make a fuller plant (you can plant 2 to 3 rooted cuttings together in one pot for a bushier look).
Spring and summer propagation is fastest. Cuttings can take twice as long to root in fall and winter.
Bright, indirect light is critical. Cuttings need light to photosynthesize and grow roots, but direct sun will scorch them.
Patience. Even in ideal conditions, it takes 4 to 8 weeks for cuttings to develop a strong enough root system to pot (if rooting in water) or show new growth (if rooting in soil).

Common Problems

Small, thin leaves (losing the thick embossed texture)

This is the most common complaint with Monstera Peru—the leaves stay small (1 to 2 inches) and thin instead of developing the signature thick, puckered texture.

Cause 1: Not enough light (most common)

In low light, Peru produces smaller, thinner, flatter leaves that lack the impressive embossed texture. The plant is conserving energy.
The fix: Move to brighter indirect light—an east-facing window is ideal, or closer to a bright south or west window (but not in direct afternoon sun). You should see larger, thicker leaves on new growth within 4 to 8 weeks.

Cause 2: No vertical support (second most common)

Without a moss pole or other support to climb, Peru produces smaller leaves with longer spaces between them (leggy growth). Climbing triggers larger leaf production.
The fix: Add a moss pole or trellis and train the plant to climb. New leaves will be progressively larger and more textured as the plant climbs higher.

Cause 3: Not enough nutrients

If you’re not fertilizing regularly, the plant may not have the resources to produce large, thick leaves.
The fix: Fertilize every 4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) with balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength.

Cause 4: The plant is still young

Young Peru plants naturally produce smaller leaves. As the plant matures and climbs higher, the leaves get larger and more textured. This can take 6 months to 2 years depending on conditions.
Be patient: Continue providing ideal care (bright light, support, regular fertilizing), and the leaves will increase in size over time.

Leggy growth (long spaces between leaves)

Leggy growth means the internodes (stem segments between leaves) are very long (4 to 8+ inches instead of 1 to 3 inches), making the plant look sparse and stretched.

Cause 1: Not enough light (most common)

This is classic etiolation—the plant is stretching toward light. When Peru doesn’t get enough light, it produces long stems with small leaves spaced far apart.
The fix: Move to much brighter light immediately. New growth will be more compact, but existing leggy growth won’t fix itself. You can prune back leggy stems (cut just above a node) to encourage bushier growth from lower nodes, or propagate the cuttings.

Cause 2: No vertical support

Without support, the plant’s natural climbing instinct is thwarted, and it produces leggy, searching growth.
The fix: Add a moss pole and train the plant to climb. Future growth will be more compact.

Yellow leaves

One or two yellow leaves over time is normal aging, but multiple yellow leaves or rapid yellowing indicates a problem.

Cause 1: Overwatering (most common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves starting at the bottom and progressing upward. The soil stays wet for 10+ days. The base of the stems may feel soft.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes root rot. The roots suffocate in waterlogged soil, rot, and can’t absorb water or nutrients.
The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings (top 2 inches should be dry before watering). Improve drainage by adding more perlite and orchid bark to your soil mix. If root rot has set in, unpot the plant, cut away black, mushy roots, and repot in fresh, very chunky soil.

Cause 2: Natural aging

What it looks like: One yellow leaf at a time, usually the oldest (lowest) leaf on the plant. The rest of the plant looks healthy.
What to do: Cut off the yellow leaf at the base. This is normal—plants shed old leaves.

Cause 3: Underwatering (less common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves plus dry, crispy edges and very dry soil.
The fix: Water more frequently.

Brown, crispy leaf edges

Brown edges on the thick leaves are usually caused by low humidity or underwatering.

Cause 1: Low humidity

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges on otherwise healthy leaves. The plant isn’t drooping.
The fix: Increase humidity with a humidifier (aim for 50 to 70 percent). You can trim off brown edges with clean scissors for aesthetics, but you need to fix the humidity to prevent future damage.

Cause 2: Underwatering

What it looks like: Brown edges plus drooping or soft leaves. The soil is very dry.
The fix: Water more frequently.

Cause 3: Overfertilizing (rare)

Too much fertilizer can cause salt buildup in the soil, which burns leaf edges.
The fix: Flush the soil by watering thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes for 1 to 2 minutes (this washes out salts). Reduce fertilizing frequency.

Spider mites and thrips (pests)

Monstera Peru can attract spider mites and thrips, especially when humidity is low or the plant is stressed.

Spider mites:

Signs: Fine webbing on stems and undersides of leaves, tiny moving dots (the mites, visible with a magnifying glass), stippling (tiny yellow or white dots) on leaves, leaves look dull or dusty.
Treatment: Increase humidity immediately (spider mites hate humidity). Spray the plant with water to knock off mites. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil (spray thoroughly, especially undersides of leaves). Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks. Isolate the plant.
Prevention: Keep humidity at 50 percent or higher. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth (this removes dust and makes it harder for mites to establish).

Thrips:

Signs: Silvery or bronze streaks on leaves, tiny black or brown insects (1 to 2 mm long) visible on leaves or in flowers (if Peru blooms, which is rare indoors), distorted new growth.
Treatment: Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Thrips are harder to eliminate than spider mites because they hide in crevices and soil. You may need to treat multiple times over several weeks. Some growers use systemic insecticide for severe infestations.
Prevention: Inspect new plants before bringing them home. Wipe leaves regularly.

General pest prevention: Healthy plants are less susceptible to pests. Provide bright light, adequate humidity, proper watering, and good airflow. Wipe leaves every few weeks to remove dust (which pests love) and inspect for early signs of infestation.

Leaves not developing the thick, puckered texture

If your Peru’s leaves are staying relatively flat and smooth instead of developing the signature deeply puckered, embossed texture, it’s usually a combination of low light, no support, and young age.

The fix:

Move to brighter light (east window or closer to a bright window).
Add a moss pole and train the plant to climb.
Fertilize regularly (every 4 weeks during growing season).
Be patient. The texture becomes more pronounced as the plant matures and climbs. Young plants and plants in low light have flatter leaves. Give it time and ideal conditions, and the texture will develop on new leaves.

What To Do Next

If you love Monstera Peru and want more unique climbing monsteras:

Try Monstera siltepecana for silvery-green leaves with white variegation (when young) and a similar compact climbing habit. Slightly faster-growing than Peru. Mature leaves develop splits/fenestrations.
Try Monstera dubia for small, shingle-like leaves that lay flat against the support structure (unique growth habit). Very different aesthetic—looks almost like silver-patterned shingles. Needs to climb.
Try Monstera standleyana for narrow, elongated leaves with white or cream variegation. Climbs beautifully on a moss pole.
Try Monstera adansonii (Swiss Cheese Vine) for delicate leaves with holes (fenestrations) throughout. Faster-growing, more common, and slightly easier. Trailing or climbing habit.

If your Monstera Peru has small, thin leaves:

Move to much brighter light (an east window is ideal).
Add a moss pole and train the plant to climb. This is critical—climbing triggers larger leaf production.
Fertilize every 4 weeks during the growing season.
Be patient. It can take several months to a year of ideal care for the plant to start producing larger, thicker, more textured leaves. Young plants and plants recovering from low light take time.

If your Monstera Peru is leggy (long spaces between leaves):

Move to brighter light immediately. This is the main cause of leggy growth.
Add support if you haven’t already.
Consider pruning back the leggiest stems (cut just above a node) to encourage bushier growth. You can propagate the cuttings.
New growth will be more compact, but existing leggy stems won’t fix themselves. Some people choose to prune heavily and start fresh, letting the plant regrow more compactly.

If you want another textured, unique plant:

Try Hoya carnosa compacta (Hindu Rope) for thick, twisted, rope-like leaves. Completely different growth habit (trailing succulent) but equally unique texture.
Try Alocasia Frydek or Alocasia Silver Dragon for thick, velvety leaves with prominent veins. Alocasias are pickier (need high humidity and are prone to dormancy), but the texture is incredible.
Try Philodendron Micans for soft, velvety leaves with a bronze-green iridescence. Easier than Peru and very forgiving.
Try Rhaphidophora hayi (Shingle Plant) for flat, shingle-like leaves that lay against the support. Similar climbing habit to Monstera dubia.

If you want an easier climbing plant:

Try Pothos (Golden Pothos, Marble Queen, N’Joy) for foolproof climbing vines. Extremely forgiving, tolerates low light, and grows fast. Great for beginners.
Try Philodendron Brasil or Philodendron Micans for easy, fast-growing climbers with colorful foliage. More forgiving than Peru.
Try Scindapsus pictus (Satin Pothos) for silvery-spotted leaves on an easy-care climbing vine.

If your Monstera Peru is thriving:

Congratulations! You’ve got the light, support, and care dialed in.
Consider propagating to make the plant bushier (root cuttings and replant them in the same pot) or to share with friends.
Try other climbing monsteras or aroids to expand your collection (see suggestions above).