Calathea Roseopicta Care: The Rose-Painted Calathea

Calathea Roseopicta (also called Rose-Painted Calathea or Goeppertia roseopicta) is one of the most stunning calatheas you can grow indoors—and that’s saying something in a family famous for breathtaking foliage. The round leaves look like someone hand-painted each one with rose-pink, cream, and deep green patterns that radiate from the center like watercolors bleeding into wet paper. The edges are rimmed in dark purple or burgundy, and when you flip the leaves over, the undersides are a rich, velvety deep purple. When light hits the leaves, the pink patterns practically glow.

Like all calatheas, Roseopicta is a prayer plant—the leaves fold up at night and unfold in the morning, a slow, mesmerizing movement called nyctinasty. When the leaves fold up, you see those deep purple undersides, and the whole plant looks completely different. It’s a living art piece that changes throughout the day.

Why Roseopicta is stunning but challenging:

The patterns are unreal: Each leaf is unique with intricate rose-pink and cream patterns on a dark green background. The combination of colors and the round leaf shape make it one of the most decorative houseplants you can grow.
Prayer plant movement: The leaves fold up dramatically at night, revealing the deep purple undersides. It’s fascinating to watch and makes the plant feel alive.
It needs high humidity: 60 to 80 percent humidity is absolutely non-negotiable. Below 50 percent, the leaf edges turn brown and crispy within days.
Filtered water is essential: Tap water contains fluoride and chlorine that cause brown edges and faded patterns almost immediately. You must use filtered, distilled, or rainwater.
Moderately difficult but not impossible: Roseopicta is slightly more forgiving than high-maintenance varieties like White Fusion or Ornata, but it’s still pickier than most houseplants. If you can maintain high humidity and use filtered water, you can grow it.

Roseopicta varieties: The species has several popular varieties, including ‘Dottie’ (dark purple-black leaves with hot pink stripes), ‘Rosey’ (prominent rose-pink centers), and ‘Medallion’ (often sold as a separate species but technically a Roseopicta variety). All have similar care requirements with slight differences in pattern intensity and color saturation.

If you’re willing to invest in a humidifier and filtered water, Roseopicta rewards you with some of the most beautiful foliage in the houseplant world. Let’s talk about how to grow it successfully.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry (use filtered water)
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Upright, clumping
Biggest challenge: High humidity and sensitive to tap water

Light

Calathea Roseopicta needs bright, indirect light to maintain its rose-pink coloration and intricate patterns. This is critical—the pink patterns that make Roseopicta so special will fade to pale cream or white if the plant doesn’t get enough light. The more light (without direct sun), the more vibrant and saturated the pink tones become.

Best light:

East-facing window with a sheer curtain: Gentle morning sun filtered through sheer fabric, then bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal.
North-facing window with bright ambient light: Consistent medium to bright indirect light all day without direct sun exposure.
A few feet back from a south or west-facing window: Where the plant gets bright ambient light but no direct sun rays.

Why bright indirect light matters for Roseopicta:

Pink patterns stay vibrant: In adequate light, the rose-pink and cream patterns are saturated and clearly defined. The plant looks like a work of art.
Leaf quality: New leaves emerge with strong, healthy patterns and good color contrast between the pink, cream, and green zones.
Growth habit: The plant stays compact and upright rather than becoming leggy and stretched.

What happens in low light:

Pink fades to cream or white: This is the most obvious sign. The rose-pink tones become pale cream or disappear entirely, leaving you with a much less impressive green-and-cream plant.
Patterns fade: The intricate watercolor-like patterns become less defined and muddied.
Leggy growth: The plant stretches toward the light source, producing smaller leaves on longer stems.
Slower growth: Calatheas grow slowly even in ideal conditions, but in low light, growth nearly stops.

Can you use grow lights? Yes! If you don’t have a window with bright indirect light, a full-spectrum LED grow light placed 12 to 18 inches above the plant for 10 to 12 hours per day works beautifully. This is especially helpful in winter when natural light is weak.

Signs of too much light:

Faded, pale leaves: Counterintuitively, too much light (especially any direct sun) causes the leaves to fade and look washed out rather than vibrant.
Brown, scorched edges or spots: Direct sun burns the delicate leaves almost immediately. Even an hour or two of direct morning sun can cause permanent brown damage.
Leaves lose their glossy sheen: Healthy Roseopicta leaves have a subtle satin-like sheen. Sunburned leaves look dull and damaged.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot. Think “bright enough to read comfortably all day, but no direct sun rays hitting the leaves.” If your pink is fading, the first fix is always more light.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Roseopicta likes consistent moisture but is sensitive to both overwatering and tap water quality. Getting watering right is about finding the balance between keeping the soil evenly moist and avoiding soggy, waterlogged conditions.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, wait another day or two.
Water thoroughly with filtered, distilled, or rainwater until water runs out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this causes root rot.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 5 to 7 days, depending on light, temperature, and humidity. In warm, bright conditions with good airflow, you might water every 5 days. In cooler or more humid conditions, every 7 days.
Fall and winter (slower growth): Every 10 to 14 days. The plant uses less water when it’s not actively growing, and soil dries more slowly in cooler temperatures.

The filtered water requirement is absolutely non-negotiable:

Calathea Roseopicta is extremely sensitive to tap water. Tap water in most areas contains fluoride, chlorine, and dissolved minerals (salts) that accumulate in the soil and damage the plant over time. Within a few weeks of watering with tap water, you’ll see brown, crispy edges on the leaves and the pink patterns will fade. This damage is permanent—once a leaf is damaged, it stays damaged.

Why tap water causes problems:

Fluoride toxicity: Fluoride is added to most municipal water supplies for dental health, but it’s toxic to calatheas. It accumulates in the leaf tips and edges, causing brown, dead tissue.
Chlorine damage: Chlorine can burn the delicate roots and cause yellowing and brown spots.
Mineral buildup: Hard water contains dissolved calcium and magnesium that build up as white crusty deposits on the soil surface and in the root zone. This causes nutrient lockout and general stress.

What water to use:

Filtered water: A simple pitcher filter (like Brita) or faucet-mounted filter removes chlorine and reduces fluoride and minerals. This is the most practical option for most people.
Distilled water: Completely pure with no minerals or chemicals. Available at any grocery store for about $1 per gallon. Perfect for calatheas.
Rainwater: Free, naturally soft, and chemical-free. If you can collect it, use it.
Reverse osmosis (RO) water: If you have an RO system, this is ideal. Completely pure.

If you must use tap water: Let it sit out in an open container for 24 hours. This allows chlorine to evaporate (but does not remove fluoride or minerals). It’s better than using straight tap water, but not as good as filtered or distilled water.

Watering mistakes and how to diagnose them:

Overwatering signs:

Yellow leaves (starting at the bottom of the plant)
Soft, mushy stems at the base
Soil smells sour or rotten
Soil stays wet for 10+ days

Overwatering is the most common cause of death for calatheas. If you’re overwatering, the roots rot and can’t absorb water or nutrients. The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings, improve drainage by adding perlite to the soil, and make sure the pot has drainage holes.

Underwatering signs:

Curling, cupped leaves (the plant is trying to reduce water loss)
Drooping, limp leaves
Dry, crispy brown edges (but this can also be low humidity or tap water, so check all three)
Soil pulls away from the edges of the pot

If you’re underwatering, the fix is simple: Water more frequently. Calatheas don’t like to dry out completely.

How to tell the difference between brown edges from low humidity vs. tap water:

Tap water damage: Brown edges are crispy and uniform along the entire leaf margin. It often starts at the tips and works inward. The damage appears relatively quickly (within 2 to 4 weeks of using tap water).
Low humidity damage: Brown edges are also crispy, but they’re often more random and patchy. The damage tends to worsen gradually over weeks to months.
Both together: If you’re using tap water AND humidity is low, you’ll get severe browning. Fix both issues.

Bottom line: Water when the top inch of soil is dry, use filtered or distilled water, and avoid both overwatering and underwatering. If you’re seeing brown edges, switch to filtered water and increase humidity—it’s almost always one or both of those issues.

Humidity

High humidity is absolutely non-negotiable for Calathea Roseopicta. This is the single most important factor in whether you’ll succeed or struggle with this plant. If you can’t provide 60 to 80 percent humidity consistently, you will have constant brown, crispy leaf edges, and the plant will never look healthy.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent year-round.

What different humidity levels mean for Roseopicta:

70 to 80 percent (optimal): The plant thrives. Leaves are glossy, smooth, and perfect. New leaves unfurl without any browning. The pink patterns are vibrant. You rarely see any issues. This is the humidity level in the plant’s native tropical rainforest habitat.
60 to 70 percent (good): The plant does well. You might see occasional minor browning on older leaves, but overall the plant looks healthy and grows steadily. This is the minimum you should aim for.
50 to 60 percent (tolerable short-term): You’ll start to see brown edges on new and old leaves. The plant is stressed and growth slows. You can keep the plant alive at this level, but it won’t look great. Not sustainable long-term.
Below 50 percent (severe stress): Brown, crispy edges appear within days. Leaves curl inward. The pink fades. Spider mites appear (they thrive in dry air). The plant is in survival mode and looks terrible. Most homes in winter are 30 to 40 percent humidity without intervention, which is far too dry for Roseopicta.

How to provide 60 to 80 percent humidity:

1. Use a humidifier (this is the only truly effective option):

A cool-mist humidifier placed near your calatheas is the most reliable way to maintain high humidity. Run it 24/7 during the heating season (fall through spring) and as needed in summer if your home has air conditioning (which dries the air).
Where to place it: Within 3 to 6 feet of your Roseopicta. If you have multiple humidity-loving plants (other calatheas, ferns, alocasias), group them together and place the humidifier in the middle of the group.
How much humidity does it add? A good humidifier can easily raise humidity from 30 to 40 percent (typical winter indoor humidity) up to 60 to 70 percent in the immediate area around your plants.
Cost: A basic humidifier costs $25 to $50 and is worth every penny if you’re serious about growing calatheas.

2. Place in a naturally humid room:

Bathrooms often have higher humidity, especially if you shower regularly. If your bathroom has a window or bright light, this can be an excellent spot.
Kitchens can also be more humid, though the humidity is less consistent.
Greenhouses or terrariums: If you have a small greenhouse cabinet or a large terrarium, this creates a controlled high-humidity environment. This is ideal for a collection of humidity-loving plants.

3. Group with other plants:

Plants release moisture through transpiration (evaporation from leaf surfaces). Grouping multiple plants together creates a slightly more humid microclimate.
Does it work? It helps a little (maybe raises humidity by 5 to 10 percent), but it’s not enough on its own. You still need a humidifier.

Why pebble trays and misting do NOT work:

Pebble trays: The idea is to place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, which evaporates and raises humidity. In reality, the amount of humidity this adds is negligible (maybe 2 to 3 percent). The water surface area is too small to make a difference. Don’t bother—it’s a waste of time and creates a breeding ground for gnats.

Misting: Spraying the leaves with water raises humidity for about 5 to 10 minutes, then it evaporates and humidity drops back to baseline. You’d have to mist every 10 minutes, 24/7, to maintain adequate humidity—which is obviously impossible. Additionally:

Misting can cause fungal issues. If water sits on the leaves overnight, it creates conditions for fungal leaf spots.
Misting doesn’t address the root problem. Low ambient humidity stresses the plant even if you mist daily.
It’s time-consuming and ineffective. Just get a humidifier.

Signs of low humidity (and how to fix them):

Brown, crispy leaf edges: This is the classic sign. The edges and tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out. Once this happens, the damage is permanent—you can’t reverse it. Fix: Increase humidity with a humidifier. If edges are already brown, trim them off with clean scissors for aesthetic reasons, but focus on preventing future damage.
Leaves curling inward: The plant is trying to reduce the surface area exposed to dry air to minimize water loss. Fix: Increase humidity and check soil moisture (curling can also indicate underwatering).
Pink patterns fade: Low humidity stresses the plant, and stressed plants produce less vibrant coloration. Fix: Increase humidity and make sure the plant is getting bright indirect light.
Spider mites: These tiny pests thrive in hot, dry conditions and love to attack stressed calatheas. You’ll see fine webbing on the undersides of leaves and tiny moving dots (the mites themselves). Fix: Increase humidity (spider mites hate humidity), spray the plant with water to knock off mites, and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil if the infestation is severe.

Bottom line: If you want a beautiful Calathea Roseopicta with perfect leaves and vibrant pink patterns, you need a humidifier. There’s no way around it. It’s the single best investment you can make for this plant.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining but moisture-retentive soil.

Best soil:

2 parts potting mix, 1 part perlite, 1 part peat moss or coco coir

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly.

Fertilize once a month in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges (the most common issue)

Brown edges on Calathea Roseopicta are almost always caused by one or a combination of three things: low humidity, tap water, or underwatering. Here’s how to diagnose which one is the culprit:

1. Low humidity (most common):

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges along the entire leaf margin, often starting at the tips and working inward. The browning is relatively uniform and symmetrical.
Why it happens: When humidity is below 50 to 60 percent, the leaf edges dry out faster than the plant can replace the moisture. The delicate leaf tissue dies and turns brown.
The fix: Get a humidifier and run it 24/7. Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity. This is the most important change you can make. If humidity is consistently high, new leaves will emerge without browning (though existing damaged leaves won’t heal).

2. Tap water (second most common):

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges and tips, often appearing within 2 to 4 weeks of using tap water. The damage can look similar to low humidity damage.
Why it happens: Fluoride, chlorine, and minerals in tap water are toxic to calatheas. They accumulate in the leaf tips and edges, causing permanent brown damage.
The fix: Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater immediately. If you’ve been using tap water, flush the soil thoroughly with filtered water (water until water runs freely out the drainage holes for 1 to 2 minutes) to wash out accumulated salts. New leaves will be healthier.

3. Underwatering (less common but possible):

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges plus curling or drooping leaves.
Why it happens: If the soil dries out too much, the plant can’t absorb enough water to keep the leaves hydrated, and the edges dry out.
The fix: Water more frequently. Calatheas don’t like to dry out completely—check the top inch of soil and water when it’s dry.

In most cases, it’s a combination: If your humidity is 40 percent AND you’re using tap water, you’ll get severe browning. Fix both issues for the best results.

Can you trim brown edges? Yes, for aesthetic reasons. Use clean, sharp scissors to trim off the brown parts, following the natural curve of the leaf. This won’t harm the plant, but it also won’t solve the underlying problem—you need to fix the humidity and water quality.

Pink patterns fading to cream or white

This is frustrating because the pink is what makes Roseopicta special.

Cause 1: Not enough light

The most common reason. If the plant isn’t getting bright indirect light, it can’t maintain the pink pigmentation, and the colors fade to pale cream or white.
The fix: Move the plant to a brighter spot (but still no direct sun). An east-facing window or a few feet back from a south or west-facing window is ideal. You should see improvement in new leaves within a few weeks. Existing faded leaves won’t regain their color, but new growth will be more vibrant.

Cause 2: Low humidity or stress

Stressed plants produce less vibrant colors. If humidity is low or the plant is struggling with other issues (tap water, overwatering, pests), the pink may fade.
The fix: Address the underlying stress (increase humidity, switch to filtered water, adjust watering). Healthy, happy plants produce the most vibrant colors.

Cause 3: Variety-specific

Some Roseopicta varieties have more pink than others. ‘Rosey’ has prominent pink centers, while the standard species may have less intense pink. If your plant was never very pink to begin with, it may just be the variety.

Yellow leaves

One or two yellow leaves over time is normal aging—plants shed old leaves as they grow. But multiple yellow leaves or rapid yellowing indicates a problem.

Cause 1: Overwatering (most common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves starting at the bottom of the plant. The soil stays wet for 10+ days. The base of the stems may feel soft or mushy.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes root rot. The roots can’t absorb water or nutrients, so the plant starts shedding leaves.
The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the top inch of soil and only water when it’s dry. If root rot has set in (mushy roots, sour-smelling soil), you may need to repot the plant, cutting away any black, mushy roots and replanting in fresh soil.

Cause 2: Underwatering (less common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves plus dry, crispy edges and curling leaves.
The fix: Water more frequently.

Cause 3: Natural aging

What it looks like: One yellow leaf at a time, usually the oldest (lowest) leaf on the plant. The rest of the plant looks healthy.
Why it happens: Plants naturally shed old leaves to make room for new growth. This is completely normal.
What to do: Cut off the yellow leaf at the base once it’s fully yellow. No other action needed.

Leaves curling or cupping inward

This is a stress response—the plant is trying to reduce the surface area exposed to dry air to minimize water loss.

Cause 1: Underwatering

What it looks like: Curling leaves plus dry soil and possibly drooping.
The fix: Water thoroughly and consistently. Calatheas like evenly moist soil.

Cause 2: Low humidity

What it looks like: Curling leaves plus brown, crispy edges.
The fix: Increase humidity with a humidifier.

Cause 3: Too much light or heat

What it looks like: Curling leaves plus faded or pale leaves.
The fix: Move the plant to a spot with bright indirect light (not direct sun) and away from heat sources like radiators or heating vents.

Spider mites (common in dry air)

Spider mites are tiny pests (you need a magnifying glass to see them clearly) that suck sap from the leaves, causing stippling (tiny yellow or white dots) and fine webbing on the undersides of leaves. Calathea Roseopicta is highly susceptible to spider mites, especially when humidity is low.

Signs of spider mites:

Fine webbing on the undersides of leaves and between leaves and stems
Tiny moving dots (the mites themselves) on the undersides of leaves
Stippling or speckling on the leaves (tiny yellow or white dots)
Leaves look dull or dusty

How to get rid of spider mites:

Increase humidity immediately. Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions and hate humidity. Running a humidifier near the plant will slow their reproduction and make the environment less hospitable.
Spray the plant with water. Take the plant to the sink or shower and spray the leaves (especially the undersides) with a strong stream of water. This physically knocks off many of the mites.
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Spray the entire plant (especially the undersides of leaves) with insecticidal soap or diluted neem oil (follow the product instructions). Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks to kill newly hatched mites.
Isolate the plant. Keep it away from other plants until the infestation is under control so the mites don’t spread.

Prevention: The best way to prevent spider mites is to keep humidity high (60 to 80 percent). They rarely infest plants in high-humidity environments.

Why do the leaves move? (Prayer plant movement explained)

All calatheas are “prayer plants”—they fold their leaves up at night and open them again in the morning. This movement is called nyctinasty and is controlled by a small joint-like structure at the base of each leaf called the pulvinus.

How it works:

The pulvinus responds to changes in light. As daylight fades, the cells on one side of the pulvinus swell with water, causing the leaf to fold upward. In the morning, the process reverses and the leaf unfolds.
It’s not triggered by touch (like Mimosa pudica). The movement is based on the plant’s internal circadian rhythm and light detection.
It’s slow enough to watch. If you sit and watch your Roseopicta in the evening, you can see the leaves slowly fold up over the course of 1 to 2 hours. It’s mesmerizing.

Why it’s cool:

When the leaves fold up, you see the deep purple undersides, and the entire plant looks completely different. It’s like having two plants in one.
The leaves make a soft rustling sound as they move.
It’s a reminder that plants are dynamic, living organisms that respond to their environment.

Is the movement normal? Yes! If your Roseopicta’s leaves are folding up at night and opening in the morning, that’s a sign of a healthy plant. If the leaves stop moving, it may indicate severe stress (though the plant can still be alive).

Popular Calathea Roseopicta Varieties

The Roseopicta species has several stunning cultivars, all with similar care requirements but different color patterns and intensity.

Calathea Roseopicta ‘Dottie’: The darkest and most dramatic variety. The leaves are deep purple-black with hot pink or magenta stripes radiating from the center. In low light, the colors are so dark the leaf looks almost black. The undersides are deep burgundy-purple. ‘Dottie’ is slightly more tolerant of lower light than other Roseopicta varieties because of the high pigment concentration.

Calathea Roseopicta ‘Rosey’: Green leaves with prominent rose-pink centers that fade to cream and light green toward the edges. The pink is more saturated and covers more of the leaf surface than the standard Roseopicta. The edges are dark purple. This is the variety to choose if you want the most intense pink coloration.

Calathea Roseopicta ‘Medallion’ (or Calathea Medallion): Often sold as a separate species (Calathea veitchiana), but it’s technically a Roseopicta cultivar. Large, round leaves with cream, light green, and dark green feathered patterns radiating from the center. The undersides are deep burgundy-purple. ‘Medallion’ has slightly larger leaves than the standard Roseopicta (8 to 10 inches across vs. 6 to 8 inches) and is one of the most popular calatheas sold.

Calathea Roseopicta ‘Corona’: Cream or pale yellow centers with dark green edges and pink or purple undersides. The contrast between the light center and dark edges is striking.

Calathea Roseopicta ‘Illustris’ (or ‘Surprise Star’): Silver-green leaves with rose-pink edges and a dark green feathered pattern in the center. The colors are more subtle than ‘Rosey’ or ‘Dottie.’

Care differences between varieties: All Roseopicta varieties need the same care—60 to 80 percent humidity, bright indirect light, and filtered water. The darker varieties like ‘Dottie’ may tolerate slightly lower light, while varieties with more pink or cream (like ‘Rosey’ or ‘Corona’) need brighter light to maintain their colors.

Propagation

Calathea Roseopicta is propagated by division—you can’t propagate from cuttings.

When to divide: Spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Only divide a plant that has multiple stems/clumps growing from the soil—if your plant is a single stem, wait until it produces offsets.

How to divide:

Remove the plant from its pot and gently shake off excess soil so you can see the roots.
Look for natural divisions where separate stems/clumps have their own root systems.
Use your hands or a clean knife to separate the clumps. Each division should have at least 2 to 3 stems and a healthy root system.
Pot each division in fresh, well-draining soil in a pot with drainage holes.
Water thoroughly and keep humidity high (cover with a plastic bag for the first week or two if needed).
Don’t fertilize for at least 6 to 8 weeks—let the plant recover from the stress of division.

Success rate: About 70 to 80 percent if you’re careful and keep humidity high during recovery. Calatheas can be sensitive to root disturbance, so handle gently.

What To Do Next

If you love Roseopicta and want more calatheas:

Try Calathea ‘Dottie’ (if you don’t already have it) for darker, more dramatic foliage with hot pink stripes.
Try Calathea Ornata (Pinstripe Calathea) for similar pink-and-green patterns but with thinner, more delicate pinstripes.
Try Calathea Makoyana (Peacock Plant) for intricate feathered patterns in cream and dark green—it’s stunning.
Try Stromanthe Triostar (not a calathea, but in the same family) for pink, white, and green variegation with bright pink undersides.

If Roseopicta is too fussy and you want an easier plant:

Try Calathea Rattlesnake (Lancifolia) for a much more forgiving calathea. It tolerates lower humidity and less frequent watering.
Try Calathea Ornata ‘Sanderiana’ (some varieties of Ornata are easier than Roseopicta).
Try Maranta leuconeura (Prayer Plant)—it’s closely related to calatheas but more tolerant of lower humidity (50 to 60 percent is usually fine).
Try Tradescantia zebrina or Syngonium for colorful, fast-growing, easy-care alternatives that tolerate normal indoor humidity.

If your Roseopicta has constant brown edges:

First, switch to filtered water. This is non-negotiable. Tap water will always cause browning.
Second, get a humidifier and run it 24/7. Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity. This is the only way to prevent brown edges.
If you can’t provide high humidity consistently, consider moving the plant to a naturally humid bathroom (if it has adequate light) or investing in a small greenhouse cabinet where you can control humidity perfectly.
If you’ve done all of this and still have issues, it’s possible your plant is in too much light (move it to slightly less bright indirect light) or you’re over or underwatering (check soil moisture carefully).

If your Roseopicta is thriving:

Congratulations! You’ve mastered one of the more challenging houseplants. Consider trying even pickier calatheas like Calathea White Fusion or Calathea Musaica—they need the same high humidity but are notoriously finicky.
Expand your collection to other high-humidity plants like Alocasias (Polly, Silver Dragon, Frydek), Ferns (Maidenhair, Button Fern), or Fittonia (Nerve Plant).