Calathea Rattlesnake Care: The Plant with Wavy Striped Leaves

Calathea Rattlesnake (Calathea lancifolia or Goeppertia insignis, recently reclassified as Goeppertia insignis) is one of the easier calatheas to grow. The leaves are long (8 to 12 inches), narrow, and wavy with alternating dark green spots and stripes on a light green background—the pattern really does look like rattlesnake markings. The undersides are deep purple, which is stunning when the leaves fold up at night. The leaves have a matte texture and slightly ruffled edges, which adds to the wavy appearance.

Like all calatheas, Rattlesnake is a prayer plant—it folds its leaves up at night (a process called nyctinasty) and lowers them during the day. You can actually hear the leaves rustling when they move in the evening. This movement is fascinating to watch and is a sign the plant is healthy.

Compared to other calatheas (like Medallion, Orbifolia, or White Fusion), Rattlesnake is more forgiving of lower humidity, occasional watering mistakes, and less-than-perfect conditions. It tolerates average household humidity (50 percent) better than most calatheas (which typically need 60 to 80 percent). It also grows faster and is less prone to spider mites. If you want a calathea but are intimidated by their reputation for being finicky, start with Rattlesnake. It has the drama of a calathea with more forgiveness.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (tolerates medium light)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry (use filtered water)
Humidity: 50 to 70 percent (moderate to high)
Growth habit: Upright, clumping
Biggest advantage: More forgiving than most calatheas

Light

Calathea Rattlesnake does best in bright, indirect light, but it tolerates medium light better than most calatheas. This is one of the reasons it is more forgiving—it can handle a wider range of light conditions.

Best light:

East-facing window (bright morning sun, indirect light the rest of the day)
North-facing window (medium light all day)
A few feet back from a south or west window (3 to 5 feet)
Or under a grow light (12 to 14 hours per day)

In bright light, the rattlesnake pattern is more pronounced (high contrast between dark and light green). In medium light (like 5 to 8 feet from a window), the pattern is still visible but slightly less dramatic. The leaves also stay darker green in lower light (because the plant produces more chlorophyll to compensate).

Signs of too little light:

Leaves grow longer and leggier (stretched out, thin stems)
Pattern fades (less contrast between dark and light green)
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks during growing season)
Leaves droop or look dull

If the pattern is fading, move the plant closer to a window or add a grow light. The next new leaf will have more pronounced markings if the light is brighter.

Signs of too much light:

Leaves fade to pale green or yellow (washed out, bleached)
Brown, crispy, scorched edges or patches
Leaves curl up tightly during the day (trying to protect themselves from too much light)

Direct sun will scorch the leaves. If you see scorching, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain to filter the light.

Bottom line: Rattlesnake is happy in medium to bright indirect light. It is much more forgiving than calatheas like Medallion or White Fusion (which need bright light and struggle in medium light). If your home is on the dimmer side, Rattlesnake is a good choice.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry (stick your finger in to check). Calathea Rattlesnake likes consistent moisture—not soaking wet, not bone dry—but it is more forgiving of occasional underwatering than calatheas like Orbifolia or Medallion.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil by sticking your finger in
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Empty the saucer within 30 minutes (do not let the plant sit in water)
Wait until the top inch dries out again before watering

Typical schedule:

Growing season (spring and summer): Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season (fall and winter): Every 10 to 14 days (or longer if the plant slows down)

The schedule depends on your home conditions. In a warm, bright home, you might water every 5 days. In a cooler, darker home, every 10 to 14 days might be enough.

Use filtered or distilled water. This is critical for all calatheas. Tap water contains fluoride, chlorine, and salts that accumulate in the soil and cause brown, crispy leaf edges. The damage looks like low humidity, but it is actually tap water buildup. Rattlesnake is slightly less sensitive than calatheas like Orbifolia (which gets brown edges from tap water almost immediately), but filtered water is still strongly recommended.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves at the base)
Soft, mushy stems or petioles (the stems that hold the leaves)
Black or brown rot on the roots
Foul smell from the soil
Soil stays wet for more than a week

If you see signs of overwatering, stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. If the roots are black and mushy, trim them off and repot in fresh soil.

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves droop or curl up tightly (the plant looks wilted)
Leaves feel papery or dry
Brown, crispy leaf edges (can also be low humidity or tap water, but check soil first)
Older leaves turn yellow and drop

If the plant is drooping, give it a thorough watering. The leaves should perk up within a few hours. If they do not, the roots may be damaged.

Bottom line: Keep the soil evenly moist. Not wet. Not dry. Just damp, like a wrung-out sponge. Rattlesnake is more forgiving than most calatheas if you forget to water for a few extra days, but do not let it dry out completely.

Humidity

Rattlesnake prefers moderate to high humidity (50 to 70 percent), but it tolerates average household humidity (40 to 50 percent) better than most calatheas. Calatheas like Medallion, Orbifolia, or White Fusion need 60 to 80 percent humidity and struggle in average household humidity. Rattlesnake tolerates 50 percent humidity reasonably well and still grows (though it prefers higher).

Ideal humidity: 50 to 70 percent (minimum 50 percent).

How to measure humidity:

Use a hygrometer (cheap, $10 or less)
Place it near the plant to get an accurate reading

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (best option):
- A cool mist humidifier running 12 to 24 hours per day is the most reliable way to maintain higher humidity
- Place the humidifier near the plant (within a few feet)
- Refill daily
- Aim for 50 to 70 percent humidity
Group with other plants:
- Plants release moisture through transpiration, which raises humidity slightly
- This alone is not enough to hit 50 percent in a dry home, but it helps
Place on a pebble tray (minimal effect):
- Fill a tray with pebbles and water (water should not touch the pot)
- Place the pot on the pebbles
- As the water evaporates, it raises humidity slightly (but not enough to hit 50 percent)
- This method is better than nothing but much less effective than a humidifier
Place in a humid bathroom (if it has a window):
- Bathrooms naturally have higher humidity from showers
- Only works if the bathroom has bright indirect light

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (but less severe than calatheas like Orbifolia or Medallion)
Leaf tips turn brown
Leaves curl up tightly (trying to reduce moisture loss)
Spider mites (they thrive in low humidity)

If you see brown edges, increase the humidity. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is higher.

But wait—brown edges can also be caused by tap water. If you are using tap water, switch to filtered or distilled water first and see if the next new leaf grows in without brown edges. If the brown edges persist after switching to filtered water, then the issue is low humidity.

Good news: Rattlesnake is way more forgiving than most calatheas. In average household humidity (40 to 50 percent), Rattlesnake will have some brown edges but will still grow and survive. Calatheas like Medallion or White Fusion would struggle or die in the same conditions. If you cannot maintain 60 percent humidity, Rattlesnake is one of the few calatheas that can still thrive.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining but moisture-retentive soil. Calatheas need soil that drains quickly but also retains some moisture. It is a tricky balance, but Rattlesnake is more forgiving than most calatheas.

Best soil mix:

2 parts potting soil (provides nutrients and structure)
1 part perlite (improves drainage and aeration)
1 part peat moss or coco coir (retains moisture without staying soggy)

This mix should feel light and slightly fluffy. When you water, it should drain within a few seconds but still feel damp (not wet) an hour later. If water pools on the surface or the soil stays wet for more than a few days, add more perlite.

Alternative mixes:

Pre-made calathea or prayer plant soil (works great)
Or: 50% potting soil, 50% coco coir (simpler, still works)

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes (non-negotiable)
Not too large (oversized pots hold too much moisture and increase the risk of root rot)

Pot size: Rattlesnake grows at a moderate pace and clumps over time. When you repot, go up only 1 to 2 inches in diameter. A 6 to 8 inch pot is usually adequate for a mature plant.

When to repot:

When roots grow out of the drainage holes
When the plant is rootbound (roots circling the pot)
When the soil breaks down and no longer drains well
Every 1 to 2 years (calatheas grow moderately fast)

Repot in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Do not repot in fall or winter.

Repotting tips:

Gently loosen the roots
Trim off any black, mushy, or rotted roots with clean scissors
Use fresh, well-draining soil
Water lightly after repotting and keep in high humidity for a few weeks while the roots recover

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly.

Fertilize once a month in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges

Causes:

Low humidity (below 50 percent)
Fluoride or chlorine in tap water (most common)
Underwatering (soil dries out completely)

How to diagnose:

If you are using tap water, switch to filtered or distilled water and see if the next new leaf grows in without brown edges. If yes, tap water was the issue.
If you are already using filtered water and humidity is below 50 percent, increase humidity to 50 to 70 percent.
If humidity is fine and you are using filtered water, check watering—you might be letting the soil dry out too much.

Fix: The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if you fix the issue.

Yellow leaves

Causes:

Overwatering (most common): Soil stays wet too long, roots start to rot
Natural aging: Older leaves at the base turn yellow and drop (normal if only 1 leaf at a time)
Underwatering: Soil dries out completely for too long (rare for Rattlesnake)

Fix:

If overwatering, let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. If the roots are black and mushy, trim them off and repot in fresh soil.
If natural aging, no fix needed. One yellow leaf every few months is normal.
If underwatering, water more frequently. The top inch should dry out, but do not let the entire pot dry completely.

Curling leaves

Causes:

Underwatering (most common): Soil is too dry
Low humidity (below 40 percent): Leaves curl up tightly to reduce moisture loss

Fix:

If underwatering, water thoroughly. The leaves should unfurl within a few hours.
If low humidity, increase humidity to 50 to 70 percent with a humidifier.

Leaves drooping

Causes:

Underwatering (most common): Soil is too dry
Overwatering: Roots are rotting and cannot absorb water
Cold temperature: Below 60 F

Fix:

If underwatering, water thoroughly. The leaves should perk up within a few hours.
If overwatering, check the roots. If they are black and mushy, trim off the rot and repot in fresh soil.
If cold, move the plant to a warmer spot (above 65 F).

Pattern fading

Cause: Not enough light (too far from a window).

Fix: Move closer to a window or add a grow light. The next new leaf will have more pronounced markings if the light is brighter.

Spider mites

Cause: Low humidity (spider mites thrive in dry conditions, below 50 percent humidity).

Signs: Tiny speckles on leaves, dull appearance, fine webbing on undersides of leaves or between stems.

Fix:

Isolate the plant immediately
Rinse the plant under a gentle stream of water (or in the shower)
Wipe leaves (top and bottom) with a damp cloth
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 2 to 3 weeks
Increase humidity to 50 to 70 percent (spider mites hate high humidity)

Prevention: Higher humidity (50 percent or higher) is the best defense against spider mites.

Good news: Rattlesnake is less prone to spider mites than calatheas like Medallion or White Fusion (which get spider mites almost constantly in low humidity). But it can still happen in very dry conditions.

Why Rattlesnake Is the Best Starter Calathea

If you want a calathea but are intimidated by their reputation for being finicky, start with Rattlesnake. Here is why:

1. Tolerates lower humidity than most calatheas:

Calatheas like Medallion, Orbifolia, or White Fusion need 60 to 80 percent humidity and struggle in average household humidity (30 to 50 percent)
Rattlesnake tolerates 50 percent humidity and still grows (though it prefers higher)
You will still see some brown edges in average humidity, but the plant will survive and thrive

2. More forgiving of watering mistakes:

Rattlesnake can handle occasional underwatering (leaves will droop but recover within hours after watering)
It is slightly more forgiving than calatheas like Orbifolia (which gets brown edges or drops leaves if it dries out once)

3. Grows faster:

Rattlesnake produces new leaves at a moderate pace (often 1 new leaf every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season)
Faster growth means you see results quickly, which is motivating

4. Less prone to spider mites:

Calatheas are notorious for spider mites, especially in low humidity
Rattlesnake is less prone to spider mites than calatheas like Medallion or White Fusion
But it can still get spider mites in very dry conditions (below 40 percent humidity)

5. Beautiful leaves with movement:

The rattlesnake pattern is striking and unique
The purple undersides are stunning when the leaves fold up at night
The leaf movement (nyctinasty) is fascinating to watch

Comparison to other calatheas:

Calathea Medallion: Round leaves with pink and green patterns, needs higher humidity (60 to 80 percent), more prone to brown edges
Calathea Orbifolia: Large round leaves with silver stripes, very sensitive to tap water and humidity, less forgiving
Calathea White Fusion: White and green variegated leaves, needs very high humidity (60 to 80 percent), extremely finicky, prone to spider mites
Calathea Ornata (Pinstripe): Pink stripes on dark green leaves, similar care to Rattlesnake but slightly more finicky

If you want a calathea but are intimidated, start with Rattlesnake. It has the drama of a calathea with more forgiveness. But be realistic—no calathea is truly beginner-friendly. They all need filtered water, consistent moisture, and moderate to high humidity. Rattlesnake is just more forgiving than most.

What To Do Next

If your Rattlesnake is thriving (minimal brown edges, new leaves regularly):

Try Calathea Freddie (similar care, yellow-green striped leaves, slightly easier)
Or try Calathea Ornata (Pinstripe, pink stripes on dark green leaves, similar difficulty)
Or try Calathea Makoyana (Peacock, intricate feather-like pattern, slightly more finicky)

If your Rattlesnake has brown edges:

Switch to filtered or distilled water (if you are not already using it)
Increase humidity to 50 to 70 percent with a humidifier
The damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be healthy

If Rattlesnake is too easy and you want a challenge:

Try Calathea Medallion (round leaves with pink and green patterns, needs higher humidity)
Or try Calathea Orbifolia (large round leaves with silver stripes, very sensitive to tap water)
Or try Calathea White Fusion (white and green variegated leaves, extremely finicky, needs very high humidity)

If you are struggling with Rattlesnake:

Check watering first (overwatering is the most common cause of problems)
Then check if you are using filtered water (tap water causes brown edges)
Then check humidity (increase to 50 percent or higher if you see brown edges)
Then check light (move closer to a window if the pattern is fading)

If you love prayer plants but Rattlesnake is too finicky:

Try Maranta Leuconeura (Prayer Plant, similar leaf movement, much more forgiving, tolerates average humidity)
Or try Stromanthe Triostar (pink and green striped leaves, similar care to Rattlesnake but slightly easier)

Rattlesnake is worth growing if you want a calathea that is more forgiving than most. It is not a beginner plant (no calathea is), but it is the most forgiving calathea I have grown. If you can provide filtered water, consistent moisture, and 50 percent humidity, Rattlesnake will reward you with beautiful wavy leaves and fascinating leaf movement.