Calathea Ornata Care: The Pinstripe Plant

Calathea Ornata (also called Pinstripe Plant, Pinstripe Calathea, or botanically Goeppertia ornata) is one of the most elegant and visually striking calatheas. The leaves are large (8 to 12 inches long), elongated, and deep emerald-green to almost black with bright pink pinstripes (thin parallel lines) running from the center vein to the edges. The undersides of the leaves are deep burgundy-purple. The overall effect is formal, sophisticated, and dramatic—like a plant designed for a boutique hotel lobby or a modern living room accent.

What makes Ornata special:

Bright pink pinstripes on dark leaves: The high contrast between the nearly black background and the bright pink lines is stunning. The pink is most intense on young leaves. As the plant matures, the pink naturally fades to cream, white, or silvery-pink over several months to a year. This is completely normal and not a sign of poor care—it’s part of Ornata’s natural aging process. Even when the stripes are white, the contrast against the dark leaves is beautiful.
Large, upright leaves: Ornata has a bold, architectural growth habit with upright, elongated leaves that create a striking vertical accent. Mature plants can reach 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Prayer plant movement: Like all calatheas (which are technically in the Marantaceae or “prayer plant” family), Ornata’s leaves fold upward at night and spread open during the day. This movement (called nyctinasty) is fascinating to watch and means the plant is responding to light cycles.
Deep burgundy undersides: When the leaves fold upward at night, you see the rich burgundy-purple undersides. This adds another layer of visual interest.

Why Ornata is fussy (but slightly easier than some calatheas):

High humidity required: 60 to 80 percent humidity is essential. Below 60 percent, edges turn brown and crispy, leaves curl, and the plant looks stressed. Most homes sit at 30 to 50 percent without intervention—too dry for calatheas.
Sensitive to tap water: Calatheas (including Ornata) are notoriously sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and minerals in tap water. These chemicals cause brown edges, brown tips, and faded stripes. You need to use filtered, distilled, or rainwater.
Prefers consistent moisture: Ornata likes soil that stays lightly moist (not soggy, not bone dry). Inconsistent watering—letting it dry out completely, then overwatering—stresses the plant and causes brown edges and curling.
Moderate light, not too bright or too dark: Ornata needs bright indirect light (not direct sun, which scorches the leaves) but also doesn’t tolerate low light well (growth slows, stripes fade, plant gets leggy).

That said, Ornata is moderately easier than some notoriously difficult calatheas:

Easier than: Calathea White Fusion (extremely picky about humidity, browning issues even in ideal care), Calathea Medallion (faster-growing but very prone to spider mites and brown edges), Calathea Musaica (network of intricate patterns, very slow-growing and finicky).
Similar difficulty to: Calathea Roseopicta (painted rose), Calathea Makoyana (peacock), Calathea Vittata.
Harder than: Calathea Rattlesnake (Lancifolia) and Calathea Freddie (both more forgiving of average humidity and tap water).

Ornata is an intermediate to advanced plant. If you’ve never grown calatheas before, consider starting with Calathea Rattlesnake or Freddie to learn calathea care basics. If you’ve successfully grown other calatheas (or high-humidity plants like anthuriums, alocasias, or ferns), Ornata is a beautiful next step.

Let’s talk about how to keep this elegant plant happy.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry (use filtered water)
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Upright, clumping
Biggest challenge: High humidity and sensitive to tap water

Light

Calathea Ornata needs bright, indirect light to maintain its dark green/black coloration, vibrant pink (or white) stripes, and healthy growth. The right light balance is critical—too little light and the plant becomes leggy with faded stripes, too much direct sun and the leaves scorch and lose their dark richness.

Best light:

East-facing window with a sheer curtain: Gentle morning sun filtered through a sheer curtain is ideal. The curtain diffuses the light so it’s bright but not harsh. This is the sweet spot for calatheas.
North-facing window with bright ambient light: If your north window gets good natural light (not dim or shadowy), this works well. North light is naturally diffused and gentle.
A few feet back from a south or west window: If you only have south or west-facing windows (which get strong, direct afternoon sun), place Ornata 4 to 8 feet back from the window where it gets bright ambient light but no direct sun.
Filtered light through blinds or sheer curtains: Any window with diffused light (through sheer curtains, frosted glass, or partially closed blinds) works well.

Why bright indirect light matters for Ornata:

Maintains dark coloration: In adequate light, the leaves develop their signature deep emerald-green to nearly black background. In low light, the leaves become lighter green—more medium or standard green—and the dramatic darkness is lost.
Keeps stripes vibrant: The pink (or white) stripes are most vivid and defined in bright indirect light. In low light, the stripes fade and become less prominent. The contrast that makes Ornata special is diminished.
Promotes healthy, compact growth: In good light, Ornata grows upright with full, robust leaves. In low light, the plant becomes leggy (long, stretched stems with large gaps between leaves), sparse, and unattractive.
Faster growth: Ornata is a moderate grower (not fast, not glacially slow). In bright indirect light, you might see a new leaf every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season. In low light, growth slows dramatically to one leaf every 1 to 2 months (or slower).

What happens in low light:

Lighter green leaves: The signature dark green/black background becomes medium green or pale. The dramatic contrast is lost.
Faded stripes: The pink or white stripes become less vibrant, thinner, or barely visible. The plant loses much of its visual appeal.
Leggy, stretched growth: The stems elongate with large gaps between leaves (classic etiolation—stretching toward light). The plant looks sparse and unhealthy instead of full and bushy.
Slower growth: Already moderate, Ornata in low light may produce only one leaf per month (or less).
Increased susceptibility to pests and disease: Low light weakens the plant, making it more vulnerable to spider mites, fungal issues, and root rot.

Can you use grow lights? Yes. If you don’t have adequate natural light, full-spectrum LED grow lights work well for calatheas. Place the light 12 to 18 inches above the plant and run it for 10 to 12 hours per day. This mimics bright, indirect natural light. Many collectors grow calatheas successfully under grow lights, especially in windowless rooms or during dark winter months.

Signs of too much light (direct sun):

Faded, washed-out, or pale leaves: The deep dark green becomes pale yellowish-green or bleached. The leaves lose their richness.
Brown, scorched edges or patches: Direct sun burns the delicate leaves, causing brown, crispy spots or edges. This damage is permanent.
Leaves lose their glossy sheen: Sunburned leaves look dull, dry, and damaged instead of glossy and vibrant.
Stripes fade: The pink or white stripes can fade or disappear entirely in too-bright light.

Calatheas do NOT tolerate direct sun. Even a little direct afternoon sun through a window can scorch the leaves within hours. Always filter or diffuse bright light.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot. An east window with a sheer curtain is ideal. If your Ornata is leggy or stripes are faded, the first fix is usually more (but still indirect) light.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Calathea Ornata likes consistent moisture (not soggy, not bone dry)—it prefers soil that stays lightly moist but drains well. The single most important watering rule for calatheas: use filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Tap water is the #1 cause of brown edges on calatheas.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp or moist, wait another day or two.
Water thoroughly with filtered, distilled, or rainwater until water runs freely out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture and flushes out any accumulated salts or minerals.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this causes root rot.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 5 to 7 days, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and soil mix. In warm, bright conditions with good airflow, you might water every 5 to 6 days. In cooler conditions or lower light, every 7 to 10 days.
Fall and winter (slower growth): Every 10 to 14+ days. Calatheas grow much more slowly in fall and winter (shorter days, cooler temperatures, lower light), so they use less water. Overwatering during dormancy is a common mistake.

Ornata likes to stay lightly moist, but NOT waterlogged. The goal is to find the balance between adequate moisture and avoiding suffocating, soggy soil. Let the top inch dry out between waterings, but don’t let the soil dry out completely to the bottom of the pot—this stresses the plant and causes leaves to curl and brown edges.

Why filtered, distilled, or rainwater is essential for calatheas:

Calatheas are extremely sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and minerals (calcium, magnesium, salts) in tap water. These chemicals accumulate in the leaf tissue over time and cause:

Brown, crispy edges and tips: The most common symptom of tap water damage. The edges turn brown and crispy as fluoride and salts build up in the leaf tissue.
Faded or bleached stripes: Minerals can interfere with pigmentation, causing the pink or white stripes to fade or become less vibrant.
Stunted growth: Salt buildup in the soil can damage roots and slow growth.

Water options (in order of preference):

Distilled water: Completely free of minerals, fluoride, and chlorine. Available at grocery stores ($1 to $2 per gallon). The safest option.
Filtered water: Use a carbon filter (Brita, PUR, etc.) to remove chlorine and some minerals. Not as pure as distilled, but much better than tap. If your tap water is moderately soft, filtered water usually works well.
Rainwater: Free and naturally soft (low in minerals). Collect rainwater in a clean bucket during rainstorms and use it for your calatheas. Excellent option if you have access.
Tap water (only if very soft and chemical-free): If your tap water is naturally soft (low in minerals) and not heavily treated with fluoride or chlorine, it might be okay. Let it sit out for 24 hours before use to allow chlorine to evaporate. Monitor the plant closely—if you see brown edges developing, switch to filtered or distilled water.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (usually starting at the bottom and progressing upward)
Soft, mushy stems at the base of the plant
Soil stays wet for 10+ days after watering
Soil smells sour or musty
Roots are black and mushy (visible if you unpot the plant)

The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings, improve drainage by adding more perlite to the soil, make sure the pot has drainage holes, and consider repotting if root rot has set in. Trim away any black, mushy roots and repot in fresh, well-draining soil.

Signs of underwatering:

Drooping, limp leaves that feel soft
Leaves curling inward (rolling up like a cigar)
Dry, crispy brown edges (though this is more commonly caused by low humidity or tap water)
Soil is bone dry several inches down

The fix: Water more frequently. Make sure you’re watering thoroughly (not just a splash on top) and the water is reaching the entire root ball.

How to tell the difference between brown edges from tap water vs. low humidity vs. underwatering:

Tap water damage: Brown edges that develop slowly over weeks to months. The browning is usually uniform and affects multiple leaves. The plant otherwise looks healthy (upright, not drooping). Switching to filtered/distilled water stops new damage, but existing damage is permanent.
Low humidity damage: Brown edges plus leaves curling upward. The plant looks stressed and unhappy. Increasing humidity to 60%+ stops new damage.
Underwatering damage: Brown edges plus drooping, curling, or soft leaves. The soil is very dry. The whole plant looks thirsty. Watering more frequently fixes the issue.

For Ornata, brown edges are most commonly caused by tap water (fluoride/minerals) or low humidity, not underwatering.

Bottom line: Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Keep the soil lightly moist (not soggy, not bone dry). Empty saucers. Reduce watering in fall/winter.

Humidity

High humidity is absolutely essential for Calathea Ornata (and all calatheas). 60 to 80 percent humidity is required. Below 60 percent, the plant will show stress symptoms—brown edges, curling leaves, faded stripes, and increased susceptibility to spider mites. Most homes sit at 30 to 50 percent humidity without intervention, which is far too dry for calatheas. You will need to actively increase humidity to grow Ornata successfully.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent year-round.

What different humidity levels mean for Ornata:

70 to 80 percent (optimal, native rainforest conditions): The plant thrives. Leaves stay pristine with no browning, unfurl smoothly, and the pink (or white) stripes are vibrant. Growth is healthy and consistent. New leaves emerge perfect. This is the humidity level in Ornata’s native South American rainforest habitat.
60 to 70 percent (good, minimum for long-term success): The plant does well with minimal issues. You might see occasional very minor browning on older leaf tips, but overall the plant looks healthy and beautiful. This is the absolute minimum you should aim for.
50 to 60 percent (tolerable very short-term, but problematic): You’ll see brown, crispy edges on most leaves. Leaves may curl upward slightly. The plant is stressed. This is not sustainable long-term—leaves will continue to develop brown edges and the plant will look increasingly unhappy.
Below 50 percent (severe stress, likely failure): Brown, crispy edges on all leaves. Leaves curl tightly inward. Growth slows or stops. Spider mites appear almost immediately (they thrive in dry air). The plant may decline rapidly. Most homes sit at 30 to 50 percent humidity without intervention—this is not survivable for calatheas long-term.

How to increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent:

1. Humidifier (the only truly effective option for most people):

A cool-mist humidifier placed 3 to 6 feet from the plant and run 24/7 (especially during heating season when indoor air is driest) is the single most effective way to raise humidity. A good humidifier can raise humidity from 30 to 40 percent (typical home) to 60 to 70 percent in the immediate area around your plants.
How much does it help? Significantly. A humidifier can raise humidity by 20 to 30 percent in the area around the plant. This is the difference between failure (40% humidity) and success (60 to 70% humidity).
Cost: $30 to $80 for a good humidifier. Consider it an essential investment if you want to grow calatheas, ferns, anthuriums, alocasias, or other high-humidity plants.
Which type? Cool-mist humidifiers are safer (no risk of burns) and more energy-efficient than warm-mist. Ultrasonic models are quieter. Choose one with a large tank (1+ gallon) so you’re not refilling constantly.

2. Naturally humid rooms (bathrooms, kitchens):

If you have a bathroom with a window (or bright light) and you shower regularly, placing Ornata in the bathroom can work. Showers and baths release humidity into the air. Kitchens (near sinks, with steam from cooking) can also be more humid.
Pros: Free. No equipment needed.
Cons: Limited space. Not always practical or aesthetically desirable. Humidity spikes during showers/cooking but drops afterward—not as consistent as a humidifier.

3. Grouping plants together:

Grouping multiple plants together creates a slightly more humid microclimate as plants release moisture through transpiration (water evaporating from leaves).
How much does it help? Minimally. Grouping raises humidity by 5 to 10 percent at most. This is helpful as a supplement, but not enough on its own to get from 40 percent to 60 percent.

4. Greenhouse cabinet or terrarium (for serious collectors):

A greenhouse cabinet (like IKEA Milsbo or Detolf) or a large terrarium creates an enclosed environment where humidity stays consistently high (70 to 90 percent) because the air doesn’t dissipate into the dry air of your home.
Pros: Virtually guarantees success. Perfect humidity control.
Cons: Cost ($100 to $300+ for setup). Limited space. Requires grow lights and fans. Best for collectors growing multiple high-humidity plants.

Why misting and pebble trays DON’T work:

Misting:

Why people think it works: Spraying leaves with water seems like it should raise humidity.
Why it doesn’t work: Misting raises humidity for 5 to 10 minutes, then it drops right back down. You’d have to mist every 10 minutes, 24/7, to maintain 60 percent humidity—which is impossible.
Additional problems with misting: Water sitting on leaves can cause fungal issues (leaf spots, bacterial infections). Misting in low light or poor airflow encourages disease. Misting wastes time and doesn’t solve the problem.

Pebble trays:

The idea: Place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it raises humidity around the plant.
Why it doesn’t work: The water surface area is too small to meaningfully raise humidity. At best, a pebble tray raises humidity by 1 to 2 percent immediately around the plant—not enough to make any difference. Studies have shown pebble trays are essentially useless for raising humidity.
Additional problems: Pebble trays breed fungus gnats (which lay eggs in the moist pebbles). They’re messy and ineffective.

The only reliable solution is a humidifier (or naturally humid room/greenhouse cabinet).

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips: The most obvious and common sign. Edges dry out and turn brown. Once this happens, the damage is permanent. You can trim off brown edges for aesthetics, but you need to fix humidity to prevent future damage.
Leaves curling upward or inward: The plant is trying to reduce surface area exposed to dry air to minimize water loss. This is a stress response.
Pink (or white) stripes fading: Low humidity stress can cause the stripes to fade or become less vibrant.
Spider mites: These tiny pests love stressed calatheas in dry air. They appear almost instantly when humidity drops below 50 percent. You’ll see fine webbing, stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves, and tiny moving dots (the mites). Spider mite infestations on calatheas are common and devastating because the delicate leaves are easily damaged.
Slower growth or no new leaves: Low humidity stress slows or stops growth entirely.

Bottom line: If you want to grow Calathea Ornata (or any calathea) successfully, you need a humidifier. This is non-negotiable. Don’t attempt to grow calatheas in normal household humidity (30 to 50 percent)—it will not work long-term.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining but moisture-retentive soil.

Best soil:

2 parts potting mix, 1 part perlite, 1 part peat moss or coco coir

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly.

Fertilize once a month in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown leaf edges (the most common calathea problem)

Brown, crispy edges on Ornata leaves are extremely common and have three main causes (often a combination).

Cause 1: Low humidity (below 60 percent) — most common

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges along the leaf margins. The browning is usually uniform and affects multiple leaves. The plant may also have leaves curling upward.
Why it happens: The delicate leaf edges dry out faster than the plant can replace moisture when humidity is below 60 percent.
The fix: Get a humidifier and run it 24/7 (or place the plant in a naturally humid room or greenhouse cabinet). Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity. New leaves will emerge without browning if humidity is consistently high. Existing brown edges are permanent—you can trim them off with clean scissors if you want, but the damage won’t reverse.

Cause 2: Fluoride, chlorine, or minerals in tap water — very common

What it looks like: Brown edges and tips that develop slowly over weeks to months. Sometimes the browning has a yellowish or bleached halo around it. Soil may have white crusty buildup on the surface (salt/mineral deposits).
Why it happens: Tap water high in fluoride (added to many municipal water supplies for dental health), chlorine (used to disinfect water), or hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) causes these chemicals to accumulate in the leaf tissue. Over time, they damage the edges and tips, causing browning.
The fix: Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater immediately. This stops new damage from developing. Flush the soil thoroughly with filtered/distilled water (water for 1 to 2 minutes to wash out accumulated salts). Existing brown edges are permanent, but new leaves will emerge clean if you use filtered water going forward.

Cause 3: Underwatering (less common)

What it looks like: Brown edges plus drooping, soft, or curling leaves. The soil is very dry (bone dry several inches down).
Why it happens: The plant is thirsty. Letting the soil dry out completely stresses the plant.
The fix: Water more frequently. Make sure you’re watering thoroughly (until water runs out the drainage holes) and the water is reaching the entire root ball. Don’t just sprinkle water on top.

For Ornata, brown edges are usually caused by a combination of low humidity AND tap water. Fix both: get a humidifier (60%+ humidity) and switch to filtered/distilled water.

Pink stripes fading to white (or stripes becoming less vibrant)

There are two reasons pink stripes fade: natural aging (normal and expected) or environmental stress (fixable).

Cause 1: Natural aging (completely normal)

What it looks like: Young Ornata leaves have bright, vivid pink stripes. As the plant matures (over several months to a year), the pink naturally fades to cream, white, or silvery-pink. This happens gradually and uniformly across the plant. Older leaves have white or cream stripes, while new leaves emerge with pink. This is the plant’s natural lifecycle.
Why it happens: As the leaves age, the pigments responsible for the pink color (anthocyanins) break down. This is completely normal and not a sign of poor care. Even when the stripes are white, they still contrast beautifully against the dark green/black leaves.
What to do: Nothing. This is natural and expected. Appreciate the elegant white pinstripes. If you really want to maintain bright pink stripes, the only option is to propagate the plant and grow younger plants (which will have pink stripes on new leaves).

Cause 2: Not enough light — environmental stress

What it looks like: Stripes become faded, thin, or barely visible. The leaves also become lighter green (less dark), and the plant may be leggy (long, stretched stems).
Why it happens: In low light, the plant can’t produce enough pigment to maintain vibrant stripes. The contrast between the background and stripes is lost.
The fix: Move to brighter indirect light. An east window with a sheer curtain is ideal. New leaves will develop more vibrant stripes in adequate light (though it may take 2 to 4 weeks for a new leaf to emerge). Existing leaves won’t change.

Cause 3: Low humidity or tap water stress (less common)

What it looks like: Faded stripes plus brown edges, curling leaves, or other stress symptoms.
Why it happens: Stress from low humidity or tap water chemicals can interfere with pigmentation.
The fix: Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent and switch to filtered/distilled water. New leaves will be more vibrant.

Bottom line: If older leaves have white stripes but new leaves have pink, this is natural aging. If all leaves have faded stripes and the plant looks stressed, it needs more light, higher humidity, or filtered water.

Yellowing leaves

One yellow leaf occasionally is normal aging, but multiple yellow leaves or rapid yellowing indicates a problem.

Cause 1: Overwatering (most common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves (usually starting at the bottom and progressing upward), plus soil stays wet for 10+ days, soil smells sour or musty, base of plant feels soft.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes the roots to rot. Once the roots rot, they can’t absorb water or nutrients, and the leaves yellow and die.
The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings (wait until the top inch is dry before watering again). Improve drainage by adding more perlite to the soil. Make sure the pot has drainage holes and excess water drains completely. If the plant is severely overwatered, consider repotting: unpot, inspect roots (black and mushy = rotted, white/tan and firm = healthy), trim away rotted roots, repot in fresh soil.

Cause 2: Natural aging

What it looks like: One yellow leaf at a time, usually the oldest (lowest) leaf. The rest of the plant looks healthy.
What to do: Cut off the yellow leaf at the base with clean scissors. This is normal. All plants shed old leaves occasionally as they grow.

Cause 3: Not enough light (less common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves plus leggy growth, faded stripes, lighter green color overall.
Why it happens: In very low light, the plant can’t photosynthesize effectively and may shed leaves.
The fix: Move to brighter indirect light.

Curling leaves (rolling inward like a cigar)

Leaves curling inward is a stress response—the plant is trying to reduce surface area to minimize water loss.

Cause 1: Low humidity (most common)

What it looks like: Leaves curling upward or inward (rolling up tightly). Often accompanied by brown edges.
Why it happens: When humidity is too low, the plant loses water through transpiration faster than the roots can replace it. Curling reduces the surface area exposed to dry air.
The fix: Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier. The plant should uncurl within a few hours to a day once humidity is raised.

Cause 2: Underwatering

What it looks like: Curling leaves plus drooping, soft leaves. The soil is very dry.
Why it happens: The plant is thirsty.
The fix: Water thoroughly with filtered/distilled water. The plant should perk up within a few hours.

Cause 3: Root rot (less common but serious)

What it looks like: Curling leaves plus yellow leaves, soft stems, soil stays wet for days, soil smells bad.
Why it happens: Rotted roots can’t absorb water, so the plant behaves as if it’s underwatered even though the soil is wet.
The fix: Unpot and inspect roots. Trim away black, mushy roots and repot in fresh soil. Water less frequently going forward.

Spider mites (extremely common on calatheas in low humidity)

Spider mites are tiny pests (barely visible to the naked eye) that suck sap from leaves, causing damage and stress. Calatheas are highly susceptible to spider mites, especially when humidity is below 60 percent.

Signs:

Fine webbing on stems, leaf undersides, and between leaves
Tiny moving dots (the mites themselves, visible with a magnifying glass) on the undersides of leaves
Stippling (tiny yellow or white dots) on leaves where mites have fed
Leaves look dull, dusty, or faded (mites damage the leaf surface)

Treatment:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent immediately. Spider mites thrive in dry air (below 50% humidity) and hate high humidity (above 60%). Raising humidity is the most important preventive and treatment measure.
Spray the plant with water to knock off mites. Take the plant to the sink or shower and spray thoroughly, especially the undersides of leaves. Wipe leaves gently with a damp cloth.
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Spray the entire plant (especially undersides of leaves where mites hide) according to product instructions. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks to kill newly hatched mites. Spider mite eggs are resistant to treatment, so you have to re-treat to kill the next generation.
Isolate the plant until the infestation is controlled so mites don’t spread to other plants.
Inspect weekly. Check the undersides of leaves with a magnifying glass regularly. Catching infestations early makes them much easier to treat.

Prevention: Keep humidity at 60 to 80 percent consistently. Spider mites rarely infest plants in high-humidity environments. A humidifier is the single best prevention. Also, wipe leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks to remove dust (which mites like) and inspect for early signs of pests.

Why the Pink Fades (And What It Means)

One of the most common questions about Calathea Ornata is: “Why are my pink stripes turning white?” The answer is usually natural aging, which is completely normal and not a sign of poor care.

How the color change happens:

Young leaves: When new leaves unfurl, the stripes are bright, vivid pink (sometimes almost magenta or hot pink). The contrast against the dark green/black background is stunning.
Aging process: Over several weeks to months, the pink color gradually fades to softer pink, then to cream, white, or silvery-pink. This happens as the pigments (anthocyanins) that create the pink color break down naturally with age and light exposure.
Mature leaves: On mature Ornata plants (1+ years old), the oldest leaves have cream or white stripes, while the newest leaves have pink stripes. This creates a gradient effect across the plant—some leaves pink, some transitioning, some white.

This is completely normal and expected. Even when the stripes are white or cream, they still contrast beautifully against the dark green/black leaves. The plant doesn’t lose its elegance—it just changes character from youthful and vibrant (pink) to mature and sophisticated (white).

Is there any way to keep the pink stripes?

Not really. The fading process is natural and happens even in ideal conditions (bright light, high humidity, perfect care). However:

Brighter indirect light can help maintain the pink slightly longer and make the colors more vibrant overall. Low light accelerates fading.
High humidity and proper care keep the plant healthy, which means more frequent new leaves (which will have pink stripes).
If you want continuous pink stripes, the only option is to propagate the plant regularly by division. Young divisions produce new growth with pink stripes. This way, you always have younger plants in your collection with fresh pink stripes.

When fading is a problem (environmental stress, not natural aging):

If all leaves (including new ones) have faded, barely visible stripes, and the plant looks stressed (leggy, lighter green, brown edges), this is NOT natural aging—it’s environmental stress. Fixes:

Move to brighter indirect light (east window ideal).
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent (get a humidifier).
Switch to filtered or distilled water (tap water chemicals can interfere with pigmentation).

Bottom line: Pink fading to white on older leaves is natural and beautiful. If new leaves also have faded stripes and the plant looks unhealthy, it needs better care (more light, higher humidity, filtered water).

What To Do Next

If you love Calathea Ornata and want similar elegant calatheas:

Try Calathea Ornata ‘Beauty Star’ for a variety with even darker leaves and brighter, more vivid pink stripes. Slightly harder to find but stunning. Same care as standard Ornata.
Try Calathea Ornata ‘Sanderiana’ (sometimes called ‘Princess Jessie’) for a similar pinstripe look with narrower leaves and slightly different stripe patterns. Same care.
Try Calathea Roseopicta (Painted Rose) for large, round leaves with pink/cream/white patterns that radiate from the center like a rose. Similar difficulty to Ornata.
Try Calathea Vittata for white or cream stripes on dark green leaves (no pink, but elegant contrast). Slightly easier than Ornata.

If Ornata is too fussy or you’re having trouble:

Try Calathea Rattlesnake (Lancifolia) for long, narrow leaves with rattlesnake-like patterns. Much more forgiving—tolerates average humidity (50 to 60%), less sensitive to tap water, easier for beginners. Still beautiful. $15 to $30.
Try Calathea Freddie for narrow striped leaves (similar to Rattlesnake). Also easier and more forgiving than Ornata. Good beginner calathea.
Try Maranta (Prayer Plant) for similar prayer plant movement and patterned leaves but easier care (tolerates 50%+ humidity, less sensitive to tap water). Maranta Leuconeura (red-veined) or Lemon Lime variety. $15 to $25.
Try Stromanthe Triostar (not a calathea, but in the same Marantaceae family) for stunning pink, white, and green variegated leaves. Similar care to calatheas but slightly more forgiving. $20 to $40.

If your Ornata has persistent brown edges:

Get a humidifier and run it 24/7 (especially during heating season). Aim for 60 to 80% humidity. This is non-negotiable for calatheas.
Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater immediately. Tap water is the #1 cause of brown edges on calatheas (fluoride and minerals accumulate in leaf tissue).
Trim off brown edges with clean scissors if you want the plant to look neater. Cut along the natural shape of the leaf. The damage is permanent, but new leaves will emerge clean if humidity is high and you use filtered water.
Be patient. It may take 2 to 4 weeks for a new leaf to emerge. If that new leaf comes out clean (no browning), your changes worked.

If your Ornata is leggy or stripes are faded:

Move to brighter indirect light. An east-facing window with a sheer curtain is ideal. Or place a few feet back from a south/west window for bright ambient light.
Avoid direct sun—it will scorch the leaves.
Prune leggy stems if you want. Cut just above a node (where a leaf attaches to the stem). This encourages bushier growth.
New growth will be more compact and colorful in adequate light, but it takes time (weeks to months).

If your Ornata has spider mites:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent immediately. Spider mites thrive in dry air and hate high humidity. This is the most important step.
Spray the plant with water to knock off mites, then treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks.
Isolate the plant until the infestation is controlled.
Prevention: Keep humidity high (60%+) consistently. Humidifiers prevent spider mites better than any pesticide.

If you want easier plants with similar aesthetic:

Dracaena (Corn Plant, Dragon Tree): Bold, architectural striped foliage. Much easier—tolerates low light, infrequent watering, average humidity. $20 to $40.
Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane): Large patterned leaves with cream, white, or yellow variegation. Easier than calatheas—tolerates average humidity (40 to 50%), less fussy. $15 to $30.
Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen): Colorful patterned leaves (pink, red, silver, green combinations). Very easy—tolerates low light, infrequent watering, average humidity. Great beginner plant. $15 to $30.

If you’re thriving with Ornata:

Congratulations! You’ve mastered calathea care. You’re ready for more challenging varieties.
Try Calathea White Fusion for stunning white, green, and pink variegation (very picky, but worth it if you can provide ideal care).
Try Calathea Musaica (Network) for intricate mosaic-like patterns (slow-growing and finicky, but unique).
Try Calathea Warscewiczii for huge, velvety leaves with bold patterns (easier than White Fusion, stunning).
Try high-humidity anthuriums or alocasias (Anthurium Crystallinum, Alocasia Frydek, Alocasia Dragon Scale) for similarly challenging but rewarding plants.