Calathea Orbifolia Care: The Round-Leaved Calathea

Calathea orbifolia is one of the most striking calatheas you can grow. The leaves are large, round, and silvery-green with bold, dark green stripes that run horizontally across each leaf. The pattern is symmetrical and graphic. The leaves can grow up to 10 to 12 inches across when the plant is mature and happy, making the plant look bold, architectural, and dramatic in any space.

The leaves are flat and held upright on long stems, giving orbifolia a sculptural, almost tropical jungle vibe. The silver-and-green coloring is softer and more subtle than many other calatheas (which often have bright pink, red, or purple undersides). Orbifolia is elegant and understated, but no less stunning.

Like all calatheas, orbifolia is fussy. It demands high humidity (60 to 80 percent), filtered water (tap water causes brown edges), consistent moisture (not too wet, not too dry), and protection from direct sun. If any of these conditions are off, the plant lets you know immediately with brown edges, curling leaves, or spider mites. But if you are willing to meet its needs and commit to the maintenance, orbifolia is breathtaking. The large, striped leaves are worth the effort—if you can keep it happy.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry (use filtered water)
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Upright, clumping
Biggest challenge: High humidity and sensitive to tap water

Light

Calathea orbifolia needs bright, indirect light. No direct sun. Direct sun scorches the leaves and fades the silver stripes. But too little light causes leggy growth, smaller leaves, and dull coloring.

Best light:

East-facing window with a sheer curtain (bright morning sun filtered, no harsh afternoon sun)
North-facing window (softer light, still bright enough)
A few feet back from a south or west window (3 to 5 feet, bright but indirect)

Signs of too little light:

Leggy growth (long stems, leaves spaced far apart)
Leaves losing their silver stripes (less contrast, more dull green)
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks during growing season)
Stems stretch and lean toward the light

If the silver stripes are fading, move the plant closer to a window. The stripes will be more prominent on new growth.

Signs of too much light:

Leaves fade to pale green or yellow (washed out, bleached)
Brown, crispy, scorched edges or patches
Leaves lose their bold contrast (silver and green fade)

Direct sun will scorch the leaves quickly. If you see scorching or fading, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain to filter the light.

Orbifolia is more light-tolerant than some other calatheas (like Calathea ornata or zebrina), but it still needs protection from direct sun. Consistent, bright indirect light year-round is ideal.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry (stick your finger in to check). Calathea orbifolia is sensitive to tap water—fluoride, chlorine, and minerals in tap water cause brown leaf edges and tips. Always use filtered, distilled, or rainwater.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil by sticking your finger in
If dry, water thoroughly with filtered or distilled water until water runs out the drainage holes
Empty the saucer within 30 minutes (do not let the plant sit in water)
Wait until the top inch dries out again before watering

Typical schedule:

Spring and summer (active growth): Every 5 to 7 days
Fall and winter (slower growth): Every 10 to 14 days

The schedule depends on your home conditions. In a warm, dry home, you might water every 5 days. In a cooler, more humid home, every 10 days might be enough.

Use filtered or distilled water. This is non-negotiable for calatheas. Tap water contains fluoride (added to municipal water), chlorine (used to disinfect water), and minerals (calcium, magnesium) that build up in the soil and cause brown, crispy leaf edges. Even if your tap water is safe to drink, it is often too harsh for calatheas.

What water to use:

Filtered water (Brita filter, refrigerator filter)
Distilled water (buy by the gallon at the grocery store)
Rainwater (collect in a bucket, free and ideal)

What NOT to use:

Tap water (causes brown edges)
Softened water (high in sodium, even worse than tap water)

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves at the base)
Soft, mushy stems
Soil stays wet for more than a week
Foul smell from the soil
Root rot (black, mushy roots)

If you see signs of overwatering, stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. If the roots are black and mushy, trim them off and repot in fresh soil.

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves curl inward (the plant is trying to conserve moisture)
Brown, crispy leaf edges (can also be low humidity or tap water, but check soil first)
Soil is bone dry and pulls away from the pot
Leaves droop

If the soil is completely dry, give the plant a thorough watering. The leaves should uncurl and perk up within 24 hours. If they do not, the roots may be damaged.

Bottom line: Calatheas like consistent moisture. Not wet. Not dry. Just evenly moist. Think of a wrung-out sponge—damp but not dripping. And always use filtered water.

Humidity

High humidity is non-negotiable for Calathea orbifolia. This plant comes from the humid rainforests of South America, where humidity is 70 to 90 percent year-round. In average household humidity (30 to 50 percent), orbifolia struggles and the leaves develop brown, crispy edges within days.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent (minimum 60 percent).

How to measure humidity:

Use a hygrometer (cheap, $10 or less)
Place it near the plant to get an accurate reading

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (best option):
- A cool mist humidifier running 12 to 24 hours per day is the most reliable way to maintain high humidity
- Place the humidifier near the plant (within a few feet)
- Refill daily
- Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity
Place in a humid bathroom (if it has a window):
- Bathrooms naturally have higher humidity from showers
- Only works if the bathroom has bright indirect light (east or north-facing window)
Group with other tropical plants:
- Plants release moisture through transpiration, which raises humidity slightly
- This alone is not enough for orbifolia, but it helps
Use a humidity tray (minimal effect):
- Fill a tray with pebbles and water, set the pot on top (not touching the water)
- This raises humidity immediately around the plant by a few percentage points
- Not enough on its own for orbifolia, but better than nothing

Do not mist the leaves. Misting raises humidity for only 5 minutes, then evaporates. It does not provide the consistent high humidity that calatheas need. Misting also encourages fungal issues (leaf spots, mold) because water sits on the leaves.

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (the most obvious and immediate sign)
Leaf tips turn brown and curl inward
New leaves unfurl with brown edges already (damage happened while the leaf was still forming)
Leaves curl inward (the plant is trying to conserve moisture)
Spider mites (they thrive in low humidity, below 50 percent)

If you see brown edges, increase the humidity immediately. The damaged leaves will not recover (you can trim off the brown edges with clean scissors if it bothers you), but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is high enough.

Reality check: If you cannot maintain 60 percent humidity, orbifolia will struggle. You will constantly fight brown edges and spider mites. A humidifier is a worthwhile investment if you want to grow calatheas (and other high-humidity tropicals like alocasias, anthuriums, and ferns). Without a humidifier, calatheas are almost impossible to keep happy in most homes.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining but moisture-retentive soil. Calatheas need soil that drains quickly (to prevent root rot) but also retains some moisture (they do not like to dry out completely). It is a tricky balance.

Best soil mix:

2 parts potting mix (provides nutrients and structure)
1 part perlite (improves drainage and aeration)
1 part peat moss or coco coir (retains moisture without staying soggy)

This mix should feel light and airy but still hold moisture. When you water, it should drain within a few seconds. If water pools on the surface or the soil stays wet for more than a week, add more perlite.

Alternative mixes:

Pre-made aroid mix (works for calatheas, philodendrons, monsteras)
Or: 50% potting soil, 50% perlite (simpler, still works)

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes (non-negotiable)
Not too large (calatheas prefer being slightly rootbound)

Pot size: Use a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball. Oversized pots cause the soil to stay wet too long, which leads to root rot. When you repot, go up only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

When to repot:

When roots grow out of the drainage holes
When the plant is rootbound (roots circling the pot)
When the soil breaks down and no longer drains well
Every 1 to 2 years (calatheas grow moderately fast)

Repot in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Do not repot in fall or winter.

Repotting tips:

Gently loosen the roots
Trim off any black, mushy, or rotted roots with clean scissors
Use fresh soil
Water lightly after repotting and keep in high humidity for a few weeks while the roots recover

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly.

Fertilize once a month in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges (the most common problem)

Causes:

Low humidity (below 60 percent)
Fluoride or chlorine in tap water
Underwatering (soil drying out too much)

Fix:

If low humidity, use a humidifier to maintain 60 to 80 percent humidity
If using tap water, switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater immediately
If underwatering, water more frequently (when the top inch of soil is dry)

The damaged leaves will not recover. You can trim off the brown edges with clean scissors if it bothers you. New leaves will grow in healthy if the cause is fixed.

Yellowing leaves

Causes:

Overwatering (most common): Soil stays wet too long, roots start to rot
Root rot: Roots are black and mushy
Natural aging: Older leaves at the base turn yellow and drop (normal if only 1 leaf at a time)

Fix:

If overwatering, let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. Repot in fresh soil if needed.
If natural aging, no fix needed. One yellow leaf every few months is normal.

Curling leaves (leaves roll inward)

Causes:

Underwatering (most common): Soil is too dry
Low humidity (below 60 percent)
Cold temperature (below 60 F)

Fix:

If underwatering, water thoroughly (use filtered water). The leaves should uncurl within 24 hours.
If low humidity, increase humidity with a humidifier
If cold, move the plant to a warmer spot (above 65 F)

Leaves fading or losing their silver stripes

Cause: Not enough light. The silver stripes need bright indirect light to stay prominent.

Fix: Move the plant closer to a window (within 3 to 5 feet of an east or north window). New leaves will have more contrast if the light is brighter.

Spider mites (tiny bugs, webbing, speckled leaves)

Cause: Low humidity (spider mites thrive in dry conditions, below 50 percent humidity). Calatheas are spider mite magnets in dry air.

Signs: Tiny speckles on leaves (look like dust), dull appearance, fine webbing on undersides of leaves or between stems.

Fix:

Isolate the plant immediately (spider mites spread quickly)
Rinse the plant under a gentle stream of water (or in the shower)
Wipe leaves (top and bottom) with a damp cloth to remove bugs and webbing
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil (cover all surfaces, especially undersides)
Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 2 to 3 weeks (spider mite eggs hatch in 5 to 7 days, so you need multiple treatments)
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent (spider mites hate high humidity)

Prevention: High humidity (60 percent or higher) is the best defense against spider mites. Inspect your calathea weekly (check undersides of leaves).

Slow growth or no new leaves

Causes:

Not enough light (too far from a window)
Low humidity (stunts growth)
Rootbound (roots have filled the pot)
Not enough nutrients (has not been fertilized in over a year)
Dormancy (slower growth in fall and winter is normal)

Fix:

If light is low, move closer to a window or add a grow light
If humidity is low, increase to 60 to 80 percent
If rootbound, repot to a slightly larger pot
If underfed, start fertilizing once a month in spring and summer
If it is fall or winter, be patient—growth will resume in spring

Why Calathea Orbifolia Moves Its Leaves

Like other calatheas (and other plants in the Marantaceae family, like prayer plants), orbifolia folds its leaves upward at night in response to changes in light. This is called nyctinasty, and it is controlled by a joint (called a pulvinus) at the base of each leaf.

What you will see:

During the day: Leaves are flat and spread out to capture light
At night (or in low light): Leaves fold upward toward the center, like hands closing in prayer
In the morning: Leaves unfold and flatten out again

This movement is normal and healthy. It is the plant’s way of responding to light cycles. Some people find the movement fascinating (the plant “goes to sleep” at night). Others find it unsettling the first time they see it.

Why do calatheas do this? The exact reason is debated, but the most common theories are:

To reduce water loss at night (folding the leaves reduces surface area exposed to air)
To protect the leaves from nighttime temperature drops
Or it is just a leftover evolutionary trait with no current benefit

Whatever the reason, the leaf movement is a sign of a healthy calathea. If the leaves stop moving, the plant is stressed (usually from low humidity, inconsistent watering, or poor light).

What To Do Next

If your orbifolia is thriving (no brown edges, new leaves unfurling):

Try Calathea Makoyana (Peacock Plant, similar care, smaller leaves with bold patterns)
Or try Calathea Musaica (Network Plant, similar care, intricate mosaic pattern)
Or try Calathea Vittata (similar to orbifolia, slightly smaller, similar care)

If your orbifolia has brown edges:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier
Switch to filtered or distilled water immediately
Check the hygrometer to confirm humidity levels
The damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be healthy

If orbifolia is too fussy for you:

Try Maranta (Prayer Plant, similar leaf movement, slightly easier, tolerates lower humidity)
Or try Stromanthe Triostar (similar care to calatheas but slightly more forgiving)
Or try Pothos or Philodendron (no humidity requirements, much easier)

If you love large, bold calatheas and want more:

Calathea Makoyana (Peacock Plant, similar size, bold pink and green patterns)
Calathea Zebrina (Zebra Plant, large leaves with bold dark green stripes)
Calathea White Fusion (variegated white and green, even more finicky but stunning)

If you are struggling:

Check humidity first (this is the most common issue with calatheas)
Then check water quality (use filtered or distilled water, never tap water)
Then check watering consistency (evenly moist, not wet, not dry)
Then check light (bright indirect, no direct sun)

Orbifolia is worth the effort if you love large, bold, striped foliage and are willing to commit to high humidity and filtered water. But it is not a beginner plant. If you can keep it happy, the large silver-and-green leaves are absolutely stunning. If you cannot maintain 60 percent humidity, you will fight brown edges constantly. Be honest with yourself about your home conditions and how much maintenance you are willing to do.