Calathea Makoyana Care: The Peacock Plant

Calathea Makoyana (also called Peacock Plant or Cathedral Windows, recently reclassified as Goeppertia makoyana) is one of the most delicate and visually stunning calatheas you can grow. The leaves are thin, almost translucent, with intricate patterns that look exactly like peacock feathers—oval shapes in cream, light green, and dark green that radiate from the center vein. The undersides are deep purple-pink, which shows through the thin leaf and creates a glowing effect when backlit.

The patterns show through both sides of the leaf, which is unique among calatheas. When you hold a leaf up to the light, you can see the pattern from both sides simultaneously. This translucency is beautiful but also makes the leaves fragile—they tear easily and show damage quickly.

Makoyana is a prayer plant (like all calatheas), meaning the leaves fold up at night (a process called nyctinasty) and lower during the day. You can hear the leaves rustling when they move in the evening. This movement is fascinating to watch and is a sign the plant is healthy.

Makoyana is moderately difficult. It needs high humidity (60 to 80 percent), filtered water, and consistent care. It is more forgiving than calatheas like White Fusion or Medallion (which are extremely finicky), but it is still not a beginner plant. The thin, delicate leaves are sensitive to low humidity, tap water, and rough handling. If you cannot maintain 60 percent humidity, Makoyana will struggle.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry (use filtered water)
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Upright, clumping
Biggest challenge: High humidity and thin, delicate leaves

Light

Calathea Makoyana needs bright, indirect light to maintain its intricate peacock patterns and healthy leaf color. The thin, translucent leaves are very sensitive to both too much and too little light.

Best light:

East-facing window with a sheer curtain (bright morning sun filtered through fabric)
North-facing window (medium to bright indirect light all day)
A few feet back from a south or west window (3 to 5 feet with a sheer curtain)
Or under a grow light (12 to 14 hours per day)

Why bright indirect light matters:

Patterns are most pronounced in bright light (low light causes patterns to fade and blur)
Translucency is most visible in bright light (the leaves glow when backlit)
Growth is faster in bright light (1 to 2 new leaves per month in spring and summer)

Signs of too little light:

Patterns fade or blur (less contrast between light and dark green)
Leggy growth (long stems with large gaps between leaves)
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf every 2 months during growing season)
Leaves stay darker green but lose their intricate details

If the patterns are fading, move the plant closer to a window or add a grow light. The next new leaf will have more pronounced patterns if the light is brighter. Existing leaves will not regain their patterns.

Signs of too much light:

Leaves turn pale green, yellow, or bleached (washed out)
Brown, crispy, scorched edges or patches (sunburn)
Patterns fade to almost white (too much light bleaches the pigments)
Leaves curl up tightly during the day (trying to protect themselves from too much light)

Direct sun will scorch the thin leaves within hours. The leaves are so thin that they cannot tolerate even a few minutes of direct sun. If you see scorching, move the plant back from the window immediately or add a sheer curtain to filter the light.

Bottom line: Bright indirect light with no direct sun is critical for Makoyana. The leaves are too thin to tolerate direct sun, and the patterns fade in low light. This is a tricky balance, but once you find the right spot, the plant will thrive.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry (stick your finger in to check). Calathea Makoyana likes consistent moisture—not soaking wet, not bone dry—and is very sensitive to tap water.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil by sticking your finger in
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Empty the saucer within 30 minutes (do not let the plant sit in water)
Wait until the top inch dries out again before watering

Typical schedule:

Growing season (spring and summer): Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season (fall and winter): Every 10 to 14 days (or longer if the plant slows down)

The schedule depends on your home conditions. In a warm, bright home, you might water every 5 days. In a cooler, darker home, every 10 to 14 days might be enough.

Use filtered or distilled water. This is critical for Makoyana. Tap water contains fluoride, chlorine, and salts that accumulate in the soil and cause brown, crispy leaf edges. The damage looks like low humidity, but it is actually tap water buildup. Makoyana is extremely sensitive to tap water—more so than most calatheas.

If you must use tap water:

Let it sit out overnight (chlorine evaporates, but fluoride does not)
Or boil it and let it cool (reduces chlorine and some salts, but not fluoride)
Or use rainwater (free and ideal for sensitive plants)

Filtered or distilled water is the best long-term solution.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves at the base)
Soft, mushy stems
Black or brown rot on the roots
Foul smell from the soil
Soil stays wet for more than a week

If you see signs of overwatering, stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. If the roots are black and mushy, trim them off and repot in fresh soil.

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves droop or curl up tightly (the plant looks wilted)
Brown, crispy leaf edges (can also be low humidity or tap water, but check soil first)
Leaves feel papery or dry
Older leaves turn yellow and drop

If the plant is drooping, give it a thorough watering. The leaves should perk up within a few hours. If they do not, the roots may be damaged.

Bottom line: Keep the soil evenly moist. Not wet. Not dry. Just damp, like a wrung-out sponge. Makoyana is less forgiving than Rattlesnake or Freddie. If you let it dry out completely or stay wet for too long, the plant will show damage quickly.

Humidity

High humidity is absolutely non-negotiable for Calathea Makoyana. This plant needs 60 to 80 percent humidity to thrive. Average household humidity (30 to 50 percent) is not enough—Makoyana will get brown edges, curling leaves, and attract spider mites.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent (minimum 60 percent).

How to measure humidity:

Use a hygrometer (cheap, $10 or less)
Place it near the plant to get an accurate reading

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (essential):
- A cool mist humidifier running 24 hours per day is the only reliable way to maintain 60 to 80 percent humidity in most homes
- Place the humidifier near the plant (within a few feet)
- Refill daily
- Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity
Place in a humid bathroom (if it has a window):
- Bathrooms naturally have higher humidity from showers
- Only works if the bathroom has bright indirect light
- This method alone may not hit 60 percent
Group with other plants:
- Plants release moisture through transpiration, which raises humidity slightly
- This alone is not enough to hit 60 percent in a dry home, but it helps
Greenhouse cabinet (ideal for delicate calatheas):
- A glass cabinet with a humidifier inside creates a stable, high-humidity environment
- Perfect for calatheas like Makoyana, Medallion, and White Fusion
- Maintains 70 to 90 percent humidity consistently

Do not mist. Misting is a popular recommendation, but it does not work. Here is why:

Misting raises humidity for only 5 to 10 minutes (then it evaporates)
It does not provide the consistent 60 to 80 percent humidity Makoyana needs
Water droplets on the thin leaves can cause spotting, fungal growth, or bacterial issues
Misting is time-consuming and ineffective

A humidifier is the only reliable solution.

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (this happens quickly, within days)
Leaf tips turn brown
Leaves curl up tightly (trying to reduce moisture loss)
Patterns fade or blur (stressed leaves lose their vibrancy)
Spider mites (they thrive in low humidity and are the number one pest problem for calatheas)

If you see brown edges, increase the humidity immediately. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is higher.

Bottom line: If you cannot maintain 60 to 80 percent humidity, do not get Makoyana. It will struggle and likely die. A humidifier running 24/7 or a greenhouse cabinet is essential. Makoyana is not a forgiving plant—it needs very specific conditions.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining but moisture-retentive soil.

Best soil:

2 parts potting mix, 1 part perlite, 1 part peat moss or coco coir

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly.

Fertilize once a month in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges

Causes:

Low humidity (below 60 percent) – most common
Fluoride or chlorine in tap water – very common for Makoyana
Underwatering (soil dries out completely)

How to diagnose:

If you are using tap water, switch to filtered or distilled water and see if the next new leaf grows in without brown edges. If yes, tap water was the issue.
If you are already using filtered water and humidity is below 60 percent, increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent.
If humidity is fine and you are using filtered water, check watering—you might be letting the soil dry out too much.

Fix: The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if you fix the issue.

Patterns fading or blurring

Causes:

Not enough light (most common)
Low humidity (stressed leaves lose vibrancy)
Natural aging (older leaves fade slightly over time)

Fix:

If not enough light, move closer to a window or add a grow light. The next new leaf will have more pronounced patterns.
If low humidity, increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent.
If natural aging, no fix needed. Older leaves will fade slightly over time—this is normal.

Yellow leaves

Causes:

Overwatering (most common): Soil stays wet too long, roots start to rot
Natural aging: Older leaves at the base turn yellow and drop (normal if only 1 leaf at a time)
Underwatering: Soil dries out completely for too long (rare for calatheas)

Fix:

If overwatering, let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. If the roots are black and mushy, trim them off and repot in fresh soil.
If natural aging, no fix needed. One yellow leaf every few months is normal.
If underwatering, water more frequently. The top inch should dry out, but do not let the entire pot dry completely.

Leaves curling up tightly

Causes:

Low humidity (below 60 percent) – most common
Underwatering (soil is too dry)
Too much light (leaves curl to protect themselves)

Fix:

If low humidity, increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier.
If underwatering, water thoroughly. The leaves should unfurl within a few hours.
If too much light, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain.

Spider mites

Cause: Low humidity (spider mites thrive in dry conditions, below 60 percent humidity). This is the number one pest problem for calatheas.

Signs: Tiny speckles on leaves, dull appearance, fine webbing on undersides of leaves or between stems.

Fix:

Isolate the plant immediately
Rinse the plant under a gentle stream of water (or in the shower)
Wipe leaves (top and bottom) with a damp cloth (be gentle—the leaves are thin and tear easily)
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 2 to 3 weeks
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent (spider mites hate high humidity)

Prevention: High humidity (60 to 80 percent) and weekly leaf inspections are the best defenses against spider mites.

Torn or damaged leaves

Cause: The leaves are extremely thin and delicate. They tear easily from rough handling, strong airflow (like from a fan or vent), or accidental contact.

Fix: Be gentle when handling the plant. Avoid touching the leaves. Keep the plant away from fans, vents, or high-traffic areas. Damaged leaves will not repair themselves—you can trim them off if they bother you.

Why Makoyana Is Special

The thin, translucent leaves are what make Makoyana so stunning and unique among calatheas. Unlike most calatheas (which have thick, opaque leaves), Makoyana’s leaves are thin enough to see through when held up to the light.

Visual effects:

Backlit glow: When light shines through the leaves (like near a window or under a grow light), the patterns glow. The dark green appears almost black, the light green looks lime, and the purple undersides create a pinkish halo around the edges. It is stunning.
Double-sided patterns: The patterns show through both sides of the leaf. If you flip a leaf over, you see the same peacock feather pattern mirrored on the purple underside. This is rare among houseplants.
Movement: Like all calatheas, Makoyana is a prayer plant. The leaves fold up at night (nyctinasty) and lower during the day. The movement is slow and mesmerizing—you can watch the leaves change position over the course of an hour.

Why the leaves are thin: In the wild, Makoyana grows on the rainforest floor in low light. The thin leaves allow it to photosynthesize more efficiently in dim conditions (more light penetrates the thin leaf tissue). The translucency is an adaptation to low light.

The trade-off is that the thin leaves are fragile. They tear easily, show damage quickly, and are very sensitive to environmental stress (low humidity, tap water, rough handling).

Bottom line: Makoyana is worth growing if you love delicate, visually stunning plants. The translucent leaves and peacock patterns are unlike anything else. But be prepared—this plant is high-maintenance and not forgiving.

What To Do Next

If your Makoyana is thriving (patterns strong, minimal brown edges):

Try Calathea Roseopicta (similar peacock-like patterns, slightly thicker leaves, similar care)
Or try Calathea Medallion (round leaves with pink and green patterns, similar difficulty)
Or try Calathea White Fusion (white and green variegated, extremely finicky, needs 70-80% humidity)

If your Makoyana has brown edges:

Switch to filtered or distilled water (if you are not already using it)
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier
Check the hygrometer to confirm humidity levels
The damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be healthy

If Makoyana is too delicate:

Try Calathea Rattlesnake (Lancifolia, wavy striped leaves, much sturdier, tolerates 50% humidity)
Or try Calathea Freddie (yellow-green striped leaves, similar care to Rattlesnake, easier)
Or try Maranta Leuconeura (Prayer Plant, similar leaf movement, much more forgiving, tolerates average humidity)

If you love the translucent leaf effect:

Try Calathea Ornata (Pinstripe, pink stripes on dark green, slightly thicker but still delicate)
Or try Alocasia Silver Dragon (jewel alocasia, silvery leaves, similar care difficulty)

If you are struggling with Makoyana:

Check humidity first (this is the most common problem—Makoyana needs 60 to 80 percent)
Then check if you are using filtered water (tap water causes brown edges)
Then check watering (overwatering causes root rot, underwatering causes curling)
Then check light (patterns fading means not enough light, scorching means too much light)

Calathea Makoyana is worth growing if you love delicate, visually stunning plants and can provide very high humidity. It is not a beginner plant—it needs 60 to 80 percent humidity, filtered water, and gentle handling. But if you can provide the right conditions (humidifier running 24/7 or a greenhouse cabinet), Makoyana is one of the most beautiful calatheas you can grow. The translucent leaves and peacock patterns are breathtaking when backlit.