Anthurium Regale Care: The Royal Velvet Anthurium

Anthurium Regale is one of the darkest, most dramatic, and most sought-after foliage anthuriums you can grow. The leaves are absolutely massive (up to 2-3 feet long on mature plants), heart-shaped, and covered in a deep velvety texture. The coloration is what sets Regale apart: dark green that’s so deep it appears almost black in certain light, overlaid with pale ivory, silver, or greenish-white veins that create stunning contrast. The darker the leaf, the more the pale veins pop – it’s a truly regal appearance that lives up to the name.

Regale is advanced and not beginner-friendly. This is a collector’s plant that requires very high humidity (70-90%), consistent care, chunky well-draining soil, bright indirect light, and significant space for its massive leaves. If you’ve never grown velvet anthuriums before, start with Magnificum or Clarinervium (both easier) and work your way up to Regale. The biggest challenge is maintaining 70-90% humidity consistently – this is higher than most homes naturally provide, so you’ll need a dedicated humidifier, greenhouse cabinet, or highly humid bathroom.

Regale is also rare and expensive. A small plant (2-3 leaves) can cost $100-300+, and mature specimens are significantly more. This is a plant you work up to after successfully growing easier anthuriums. That said, if you can meet its needs, Regale is absolutely stunning and worth the effort and investment.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry
Humidity: 70 to 90 percent (very high)
Growth habit: Clumping, upright (large leaves)
Biggest challenge: Very high humidity, rare, and advanced

Light

Anthurium Regale needs bright, indirect light to maintain its signature dark coloration and prominent pale veins. The deep green-to-black color and the ivory vein contrast both depend on adequate light. Too little light causes leaves to turn more plain green with less dramatic veining, too much causes fading or scorching.

Best light:

East-facing window (ideal – bright morning sun, indirect afternoon light)
2-4 feet back from a south or west window with sheer curtains (bright but filtered)
North-facing window only if very large and unobstructed (may not provide enough light for optimal coloring)

The light needs are similar to Magnificum but Regale seems slightly more tolerant of medium light (it won’t fade as quickly). That said, bright indirect light produces the darkest, most dramatic leaves with the strongest vein contrast.

Signs of too little light:

New leaves come in smaller than previous leaves (light limits leaf size)
Dark color fades to more plain medium green
Pale veins become less prominent or fade
Slower growth (1-2 new leaves per year instead of 2-3)

Signs of too much light:

Leaves fade from dark green-black to lighter green or yellowish-green
Brown, scorched edges or patches (direct sun damage)
Leaves feel dry or crispy rather than velvety

Critical: Direct sun will scorch the velvet leaves within hours. The damage is permanent (brown, crispy patches that never recover). Always provide filtered, indirect light. If you’re moving Regale to a brighter location, do it gradually over a week to allow the plant to acclimate.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Regale is very sensitive to overwatering – root rot kills velvet anthuriums quickly, and Regale is no exception. The chunky, airy soil mix dries faster than standard potting soil, which is intentional – these plants grow as epiphytes in nature and need excellent drainage and oxygen at the roots.

How to water:

Check the top 1-2 inches of soil (stick your finger in – it should feel dry)
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes (this flushes out mineral buildup and ensures even moisture distribution)
Let the pot drain completely (don’t let it sit in standing water)
Empty the saucer after 15-20 minutes (standing water causes root rot)

Typical schedule:

Growing season (spring/summer): Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season (fall/winter): Every 10 to 14 days
Adjust based on your conditions (high humidity = slower drying, brighter light = faster drying, smaller pot = faster drying)

Important: The schedule is a guideline only. Always check the soil rather than watering on a fixed schedule. Factors like pot size, soil composition, light levels, humidity, and temperature all affect how quickly soil dries.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves turning yellow quickly)
Mushy, dark, or soft stems
Soil that stays wet 2+ inches down for more than 7 days
Sour or musty smell from soil
Root rot (roots are dark, mushy, slimy, and smell bad when you unpot)

Signs of underwatering:

Drooping leaves (less common than brown edges from low humidity)
Leaves feel thinner or less velvety
Dry, crispy leaf edges (though this is more often low humidity than underwatering)

Critical distinction: Brown edges on Regale are almost always low humidity, not underwatering. If you’re seeing brown edges and you water more, you risk overwatering and causing root rot. Always check humidity first (should be 70-80%+), and check soil moisture before watering.

Humidity

Very high humidity is absolutely non-negotiable for Anthurium Regale. This is the single most challenging aspect of growing Regale and the reason it’s considered advanced. If you cannot maintain 70-90% humidity consistently, this plant will not thrive. Brown leaf edges appear within days at humidity below 60%, and at humidity below 50%, the plant suffers severe stress and may fail to unfurl new leaves.

Ideal humidity: 70 to 90 percent (aim for 75-80% for best results).

What humidity levels mean for Regale:

90%+: Optimal – new leaves unfurl perfectly, no brown edges, rapid growth
70-80%: Excellent – minimal to no brown edges, healthy growth, leaves unfurl normally
60-70%: Acceptable but not ideal – slight brown tips possible, slower leaf unfurling
50-60%: Struggling – brown edges within days, new leaves struggle to unfurl or come out crinkled
Below 50%: Severe stress – extensive brown edges, leaves curl, new leaves fail to unfurl or emerge damaged

How to achieve 70-90% humidity:

Option 1: Greenhouse cabinet or grow tent (BEST option for Regale)

Enclose the plant in a glass cabinet, acrylic cabinet, or grow tent
Maintains 70-90% humidity naturally with minimal effort
Ideal if you have multiple high-humidity plants
Initial investment but most reliable long-term solution

Option 2: Humidifier running 24/7 (REQUIRED if not using greenhouse cabinet)

Large-capacity humidifier placed within 2-3 feet of the plant
Run continuously (refill daily or get a model with large tank)
Monitor with hygrometer (Regale needs 70-80%, not the 40-50% most humidifiers achieve in large rooms)
May need multiple humidifiers in dry climates or winter

Option 3: Highly humid bathroom with good light

If you have a bathroom with bright natural light and regular hot showers
This can work but is space-limited and not ideal for plants this large

Why pebble trays and misting don’t work:

Pebble trays only raise humidity 5-10% within a few inches of the tray (essentially useless for a plant that needs 70-80%)
Misting only raises humidity for 5-10 minutes and can cause water spots on velvet leaves or encourage fungal/bacterial issues
Both are time-consuming and completely ineffective for Regale’s needs

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (the most obvious and common sign – starts at tips and spreads along edges)
Leaves curling inward (trying to reduce surface area and conserve moisture)
New leaves fail to unfurl properly (they get stuck partially open or emerge crinkled/deformed)
New leaves unfurl with brown edges already present
Spider mites (they thrive in dry air and target stressed plants)

Critical insight: Regale’s velvet texture and massive leaf surface area make it especially vulnerable to low humidity. The fuzzy surface increases water loss compared to glossy-leaved plants. This is why Regale needs higher humidity than even Magnificum or Crystallinum (both 60-80%, while Regale wants 70-90%).

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, chunky soil. Anthuriums need more aeration than most houseplants.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Medium to large pot (Regale grows large)

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Brown, crispy leaf edges (most common problem)

This is the number one issue with Regale and it’s almost always low humidity. The brown starts at the leaf tips and edges and spreads inward. Once a section turns brown, it’s dead and won’t recover (you can trim it off with clean scissors if it bothers you).

Fix:

Check humidity with a hygrometer (should be 70-80% minimum, ideally 75-85%)
If below 70%, increase humidity immediately:
- Get a large-capacity humidifier and run it 24/7 within 2-3 feet of the plant
- Consider a greenhouse cabinet (most reliable solution for maintaining 70-90% humidity)
- Move away from heating/AC vents that dry out the air
Be patient – existing brown edges won’t heal, but new growth will come in healthy if humidity is adequate

Less common causes:

Underwatering (leaves will also droop)
Tap water with high minerals (switch to filtered or distilled water)
Overfertilizing (salt buildup burns roots and causes brown edges)

Dark color fading to lighter green

Not enough light. The dramatic dark green-to-black coloration needs bright indirect light to develop and maintain. In too-low light, new leaves come in lighter green with less contrast.

Fix:

Move closer to a bright window (east-facing ideal, or 2-3 feet from south/west with sheer curtains)
Check that windows aren’t blocked by outdoor trees or buildings
Consider a grow light if natural light is insufficient (full-spectrum LED grow light 12-14 hours per day)

New leaves will come in darker with adequate light, but existing light-green leaves won’t darken back up.

Pale veins becoming less prominent

Also caused by insufficient light. The vein contrast (dark leaf vs pale veins) is most dramatic in bright indirect light. In lower light, veins fade and become less visible.

Fix: Same as above – move to brighter location.

Yellow leaves

Most common cause: Overwatering or root rot. Check the soil – if it’s soggy or hasn’t dried out in 7-10 days, you’re watering too frequently or the soil is too compact.

Fix:

Let soil dry out more between waterings (top 1-2 inches dry before watering)
Check roots for rot: unpot and inspect (healthy = white/light tan and firm, rotten = dark/mushy/smelly)
If root rot is present:
- Trim away all rotten roots with clean scissors
- Repot in fresh, chunky soil (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat)
- Water lightly after repotting, then wait until soil is dry before watering again
- Keep humidity high (80%+) to reduce stress during recovery

Other causes:

Natural aging (oldest bottom leaves eventually yellow and drop – normal if it’s just one leaf)
Too much direct sun (yellowing with brown scorched patches)

New leaves fail to unfurl or come out crinkled/deformed

This is very low humidity (below 60%). The developing leaf gets stuck because the low humidity causes the edges to dry and stick together before the leaf can fully open.

Fix:

Increase humidity immediately to 80-90% (use greenhouse cabinet or humidifier directly next to plant)
Gently mist the unopened leaf daily with distilled water to help it unfurl
Be patient – it can take 2-4 weeks for a stuck leaf to fully open even with increased humidity
Future leaves will unfurl normally if humidity stays at 70-80%+

Prevention: Maintain 70-80% humidity consistently. New leaves are most vulnerable during unfurling.

No new growth or very slow growth

Velvet anthuriums are naturally slow-growing. Regale typically produces 2-3 new leaves per growing season (spring/summer) on a healthy plant. Mature plants with more leaves may produce 3-4 leaves per year. Zero growth for 6-12 months indicates a problem.

Common causes:

Insufficient light (most common – move to brighter location)
Dormancy in fall/winter (normal – growth slows or stops in cooler months, resumes in spring)
Root rot (check roots, repot if necessary)
Low humidity causing stress (plant focuses on survival, not growth)
Pot too large (plant focuses on root growth instead of foliage)

Spider mites

These are the most common pest on velvet anthuriums when humidity is low. Check undersides of leaves for tiny moving dots, fine webbing, or stippling (tiny yellow/white dots on leaves).

Fix:

Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Wipe leaves gently with damp cloth (be careful – velvet leaves are delicate)
Increase humidity to 70-80% (spider mites hate high humidity and won’t survive)
Isolate from other plants until mites are gone
Repeat treatment every 5-7 days for 3-4 weeks (to kill newly hatched mites)

Prevention: Maintain 70-80% humidity consistently. Spider mites rarely attack anthuriums in high humidity.

Propagating Anthurium Regale

Regale can be propagated by division only (you cannot propagate from leaf cuttings). Division is best done during repotting in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Warning: Regale is slow-growing and expensive, so most people wait until the plant has at least 4-5 leaves before considering division.

How to propagate by division:

Unpot the plant carefully and gently shake off or rinse away excess soil to see the root system clearly
Identify natural divisions – look for separate crowns (growing points) with their own root systems attached
Gently separate divisions by pulling them apart or cutting with a clean, sharp knife if necessary (each division must have at least 2-3 healthy roots and 1-2 leaves minimum)
Plant each division in fresh, chunky soil (same mix as parent: 40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat)
Water lightly after potting (just enough to settle soil, don’t drench)
Keep in very high humidity (80-90%) for 4-6 weeks while roots establish (use greenhouse cabinet or humidity dome – this is critical for success)
Bright, indirect light but avoid direct sun while recovering
Wait for new growth before reducing humidity (4-8 weeks typically)

Success rate: 60-70% if each division has adequate roots. Divisions without sufficient roots will struggle or die. Regale is more sensitive than Magnificum during division recovery.

What to expect:

Some leaf drooping or oldest leaf yellowing is normal in first 2-3 weeks (plant is stressed from division)
New growth should appear within 6-10 weeks if division was successful
Keep humidity very high (80-90%) during entire recovery period to prevent brown leaf edges
Don’t fertilize for at least 6-8 weeks after division (let roots establish first)

Is it worth dividing Regale? Only if:

The plant has become too large for your space
You want to share with another collector
The plant has multiple crowns and is crowding itself

Not recommended if:

Plant only has 2-3 leaves (too small to divide safely)
You’re hoping to multiply your investment quickly (Regale is very slow-growing – divisions take years to reach maturity)

Why Regale Is Called Royal

The name “Regale” comes from Latin meaning “royal” or “regal,” and it’s perfectly fitting. The dramatic dark green-to-black velvet leaves with pale ivory veins create a stunning, elegant appearance that stands out among all anthuriums. The massive leaf size (up to 2-3 feet long on mature plants) and the deep, rich coloration give Regale a commanding presence that justifies the royal name.

Regale is also one of the most sought-after and expensive anthuriums in the collector community. The combination of rarity, difficulty, and stunning appearance makes it a status symbol among plant collectors. Successfully growing a thriving Regale with multiple large, healthy leaves is considered an achievement in the houseplant community.

What To Do Next

If Regale is too advanced or expensive:

Try Anthurium Magnificum (similar appearance but more silver-green and easier, 60-80% humidity instead of 70-90%)
Try Anthurium Crystallinum (bright white veins, slightly easier than Regale, 60-80% humidity)
Try Anthurium Clarinervium (compact velvet anthurium, much easier and more affordable, 60-70% humidity)
Start with easier anthuriums and work your way up to Regale after you’ve successfully maintained high humidity for other velvet anthuriums

If Regale is thriving and you want more dark anthuriums:

Try Anthurium Luxurians (even darker than Regale, deeply lobed leaves, extremely rare and advanced)
Try Anthurium Papillilaminum (small dark velvet anthurium with bumpy texture)
Try Anthurium Forgetii (copper-brown velvet leaves, slightly easier than Regale)

If Regale has brown edges:

Increase humidity to 75-80% minimum (use greenhouse cabinet or large humidifier running 24/7)
Monitor with hygrometer (humidity fluctuations cause brown edges)
Move away from heating/AC vents
Accept that existing brown edges won’t heal (new growth will come in healthy with proper humidity)

If Regale is struggling:

Check humidity first (should be 70-80%+ – this is the most common issue)
Check light (bright indirect, not too low or too bright)
Check watering (top 1-2 inches dry before watering, never soggy)
Check roots for rot (unpot and inspect if yellowing leaves or no growth)
Consider whether you can realistically maintain 70-90% humidity year-round (if not, Regale may not be the right plant for your conditions)

If you love velvet anthuriums but want easier options:

Philodendron Gloriosum (similar velvet texture, crawling growth, slightly easier, 60-70% humidity)
Alocasia Frydek (velvet texture with white veins, easier than Regale, 60-70% humidity)
Anthurium Clarinervium (compact velvet anthurium, much more forgiving)

If new leaves won’t unfurl:

Increase humidity to 85-90% immediately (use greenhouse cabinet if possible)
Mist the unopened leaf daily with distilled water
Be patient (can take 2-4 weeks to fully open even with increased humidity)
Consider whether your space can maintain the humidity Regale needs consistently