Anthurium Radicans Care: The Climbing Zebra Anthurium

Anthurium Radicans is a climbing anthurium with unique striped petioles (leaf stems)\u2014one of the most visually distinctive anthuriums you can grow. The leaves are narrow, elongated, and dark green with a slightly leathery texture. But the real showstopper is the stems (petioles), which have light and dark stripes like a zebra. The stripes are bold and dramatic, alternating between pale green/cream and darker green or brown. When you see a mature Radicans climbing up a moss pole with dozens of striped stems radiating outward, it’s absolutely striking. There’s nothing else in the houseplant world quite like it.

What makes Anthurium Radicans so special:

Zebra-striped stems (petioles): The primary appeal. Each leaf emerges on a long, striped stem that looks like it’s been painted with zebra stripes. The contrast is bold and eye-catching. This is Radicans’ signature feature\u2014the reason collectors love it.
Climbing growth habit: Unlike most foliage anthuriums (which grow as rosettes or clumps), Radicans climbs upward using aerial roots. It needs a moss pole, trellis, or support to grow vertically. As it climbs, the stems cascade outward, creating a dramatic, sculptural display.
Narrow, elongated dark green leaves: The leaves are lance-shaped (3 to 6 inches long) and provide a nice backdrop for the striped stems. The leaves are leathery and slightly glossy.
Moderately challenging but more forgiving than Warocqueanum/Veitchii: Radicans needs 60 to 80 percent humidity (high, but not as extreme as 70 to 90 percent required by Queen/King anthuriums). It’s a good “step-up” plant for intermediate collectors who want to try a rare anthurium without the extreme humidity demands of Warocqueanum or Veitchii.
Relatively affordable: Radicans is less expensive than Warocqueanum or Veitchii. Prices range from $30 to $60 for a small juvenile plant to $80 to $150+ for a mature climbing specimen. Much more accessible for collectors.
Unique visual interest: The zebra stripes and climbing habit make Radicans a conversation starter. It’s perfect for collectors who want something different from the typical round-leaved anthuriums.

Care difficulty: Intermediate. Radicans requires high humidity (60 to 80 percent), bright indirect light, a moss pole for climbing, and well-draining chunky soil. It’s more challenging than beginner anthuriums (like Andraeanum or Clarinervium) but more forgiving than advanced varieties (like Warocqueanum or Luxurians). If you’ve successfully grown Philodendron Micans, Monstera Adansonii, or Anthurium Clarinervium, you’re ready for Radicans.

Realistic expectations:

Climbing takes time. A juvenile Radicans (6 to 12 months old) has short stems and small leaves. It takes 1 to 2+ years for the plant to mature, produce longer striped stems (6 to 12 inches), and climb actively up a moss pole. Be patient.
Stripes fade in low light. The bold zebra stripes are most prominent in bright indirect light. In low light, the stripes become pale and less contrasted. Light is critical for maintaining the striped pattern.
Humidity is important but not as extreme as Warocqueanum/Veitchii. Radicans tolerates 60 to 70 percent humidity reasonably well (vs. 80 to 90 percent for Queen/King). A humidifier is still recommended, but you don’t need a greenhouse cabinet unless you’re growing multiple high-humidity plants.
Moss pole maintenance. You’ll need to keep the moss pole moist (spray it 2 to 3 times per week) to encourage aerial roots to attach. This is an ongoing care task.

Why grow Radicans?

Unique aesthetic: The zebra-striped stems are unlike anything else in the plant world. Perfect for collectors who want something visually striking and unusual.
Climbing habit adds vertical interest: If you’re tired of clumping, rosette-forming plants, a climber like Radicans adds architectural height and drama to your collection.
More affordable and forgiving than Queen/King anthuriums: A great “next step” for intermediate collectors who want to try a rare anthurium without spending $300+ and building a greenhouse cabinet.

Let’s talk about how to keep your Climbing Zebra Anthurium thriving, climbing, and producing those magnificent striped stems.

Light

Anthurium Radicans needs bright, indirect light to maintain its bold zebra-striped stems and support healthy climbing growth. Light is critical—too little light and the stripes fade to pale, washed-out patterns (losing the dramatic contrast); too much direct sun and the leaves bleach, scorch, and lose their dark green color.

Best light:

East-facing window: Gentle morning sun (1 to 2 hours of direct morning sun is usually fine) followed by bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal for Radicans.
Bright, indirect light for 6 to 8 hours daily: South or west-facing windows are okay if the plant is placed 3 to 6 feet back so it gets bright ambient light without harsh afternoon sun.
North-facing window (if very bright): If your north window gets strong natural light (not dim or shadowy), this can work, though striping may be less vibrant.

Why bright indirect light is critical for bold zebra stripes:

In adequate bright light:

Stripes are bold, dramatic, and high-contrast: The alternating light and dark bands on the stems are most prominent in bright light. The stripes pop visually. This is Radicans’ signature feature—without bold stripes, the plant loses its appeal.
Growth is faster: Radicans produces 1 to 2 new leaves per month in bright light (vs. 1 leaf every 2 to 3 months in low light).
Climbing is more vigorous: The plant actively climbs up the moss pole, producing aerial roots and extending upward.
Leaves are dark green and healthy.

In low light, the plant suffers:

Stripes fade: Instead of bold, high-contrast zebra stripes, the stems become pale, washed-out, and barely visible. The alternating bands lose definition. This is the most obvious and disappointing sign of insufficient light. The striped pattern is the whole point of Radicans—if stripes fade, the plant looks generic.
Slower growth: One new leaf every 2 to 3+ months. Progress feels glacial.
Weaker climbing: The plant may stop climbing actively or produce weak, thin stems that don’t attach to the moss pole.
Pale, yellowish-green leaves: Instead of vibrant dark green, the leaves look washed out.
Increased risk of rot: Weak, low-light plants use water more slowly, so soil stays wet longer, increasing rot risk.

If your Radicans’ stripes are fading or becoming less visible, the first fix is more (but still indirect) light. Move closer to an east window or add a grow light.

Can you use grow lights? Yes. If you don’t have adequate natural light, full-spectrum LED grow lights work well. Place the light 18 to 24 inches above the plant and run it for 12 to 14 hours per day. Many collectors grow Radicans successfully under grow lights.

Signs of too much light (direct hot sun):

Faded, bleached, or pale leaves: Direct sun washes out the dark green color. The leaves look yellowish or light green.
Brown, scorched patches or edges: Sunburn. The leaves turn crispy and damaged.
Leaves lose their healthy sheen and look dull or rough.

Radicans does not tolerate direct afternoon sun. Gentle morning sun (east windows) is usually fine, but avoid south or west-facing windows unless the plant is 3+ feet back with sheer curtains.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light (6 to 8 hours daily) is essential for maintaining Radicans’ bold zebra-striped stems. East windows are ideal. If your plant’s stripes are fading or pale, it needs more light.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Radicans is sensitive to overwatering.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil
If dry, water thoroughly until it drains
Empty the saucer

Typical schedule:

Growing season: Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season: Every 10 to 14 days

Do not let soil stay soggy. Anthuriums are prone to root rot.

Humidity

High humidity is non-negotiable.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent.

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (best option)
Place in a humid bathroom
Group with other tropical plants

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges
Leaves curling

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, chunky soil. Anthuriums need more aeration than most houseplants.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Support Structure

Radicans is a climber and needs a moss pole or trellis.

How to support:

Place a moss pole in the center of the pot
Gently tie stems to the pole with soft ties
Aerial roots will attach to the moss

Keep the moss pole moist to encourage aerial root attachment.

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Stripes Fading or Becoming Less Visible

The problem: The zebra-striped stems lose their bold, high-contrast pattern. Instead of dramatic light-and-dark bands, the stems look pale, washed-out, or barely show any stripes. The alternating bands lose definition and become muddy or uniform in color. This is the most disappointing issue with Radicans because the striped stems are the entire reason to grow this plant.

Why it happens:

Not enough light (most common cause): Radicans produces the boldest, most dramatic stripes in bright, indirect light. Low light causes the stripes to fade and lose contrast. The stems become pale and washed-out. The zebra pattern disappears.
Low humidity: While less common than low light, humidity below 50% can dull the appearance of the stripes and reduce contrast.
Nutrient deficiency (rare): If the plant isn’t getting enough nutrients over a prolonged period (6+ months without fertilizing), the overall coloration can become pale and faded, including the striped stems.

How to fix it:

Move the plant to brighter light immediately. This is the #1 fix. Move closer to an east-facing window, or add a full-spectrum LED grow light placed 18 to 24 inches above the plant and run for 12 to 14 hours per day.
Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. Use a humidifier or move the plant to a naturally humid room (bathroom, kitchen). Higher humidity enhances the visual appearance of the striped stems.
Fertilize regularly if you haven’t been. Every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer with balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. This supports healthy coloration.
Be patient. New growth will show bolder stripes if conditions improve. Existing stems won’t change, but future stems will be more dramatic.

Bottom line: Fading stripes = not enough light. Move to a brighter spot (but still indirect) immediately. The striped stems are Radicans’ signature feature—without bold stripes, the plant is just another generic climbing anthurium.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges or Tips

The problem: The edges or tips of the leaves turn brown and crispy. The damage is permanent and doesn’t go away. The leaves look ragged and unhealthy.

Why it happens:

Low humidity (most common cause): Radicans needs 60 to 80% humidity. Most homes are 40 to 50%, which is too dry. Low humidity causes the leaf edges to dry out and turn brown. This is the #1 most common cosmetic issue with Radicans.
Over-fertilizing (less common): Applying too much fertilizer or not diluting it properly causes nutrient burn. Salts accumulate in the soil and burn the leaf edges, turning them brown and crispy.
Underwatering (rare for Radicans): If you let the soil dry out completely for extended periods, the leaf tips and edges can turn brown. However, this is less common because Radicans is more sensitive to overwatering than underwatering.

How to fix it:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. This is the most important fix. Use a cool-mist humidifier placed 3 to 6 feet from the plant and run it 24/7, especially during the heating season when indoor air is driest. Or move the plant to a naturally humid room like a bathroom (if it has a window for light).
Trim the brown edges for aesthetics. Use clean, sharp scissors to trim off the damaged brown edges. This doesn’t fix the problem, but it makes the plant look cleaner. The brown edges are permanent damage—they won’t turn green again.
If you’ve been fertilizing heavily, flush the soil. Run plain water through the pot 2 to 3 times the pot volume to rinse out accumulated salts. Then back off on fertilizing—use only half-strength diluted fertilizer every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer.
Water more consistently if the soil has been drying out completely. Water when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry, not when the entire pot is bone-dry.

Bottom line: Brown crispy edges = low humidity. Radicans needs 60 to 80% humidity to thrive. A humidifier is usually required to prevent this issue.

Yellow Leaves (Especially Lower Leaves)

The problem: Leaves turn yellow, usually starting with the oldest, bottom leaves and progressing upward. The yellowing may be uniform across the entire leaf or may start at the edges and spread inward. The plant looks sickly and unhealthy.

Why it happens:

Overwatering (most common cause): Radicans is very sensitive to overwatering. If the soil stays wet for more than 7 to 10 days after watering, or if the plant sits in standing water, the roots suffocate and can’t absorb oxygen. This causes the leaves to turn yellow. Overwatering is the #1 killer of Radicans.
Root rot (severe overwatering): If overwatering continues, the roots start to rot. Rotten roots are black, mushy, and smell sour. The plant can’t absorb water or nutrients, so the leaves turn yellow and the plant declines rapidly.
Poor drainage (related to overwatering): If the soil is too dense (regular potting soil without bark or perlite), it holds too much water and doesn’t drain properly. This suffocates the roots.
Natural leaf turnover (normal aging): If only 1 or 2 of the oldest, bottom leaves turn yellow over several months, this is normal aging. Anthuriums naturally shed old leaves as they grow new ones. This is only normal if it’s slow (1 leaf every few months) and limited to the oldest leaves.

How to fix it:

Check the soil moisture immediately. Stick your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil. If it’s wet or soggy 7+ days after watering, you’re overwatering.
Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Water only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry. In spring and summer, this is usually every 5 to 7 days. In fall and winter, it may be every 10 to 14+ days.
Check the roots for rot. Gently unpot the plant and inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white, tan, or light brown and firm to the touch. Rotten roots are black, mushy, slimy, and may smell sour or foul. If you find rotten roots, see the “Root Rot” section below.
Improve drainage if the soil is too dense. If the soil looks like regular potting soil without visible chunks of bark or perlite, it’s too dense. Repot in a chunky aroid mix (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss).
If it’s just 1 or 2 old leaves turning yellow slowly, this is normal. Trim them off at the base once they’re fully yellow.

Bottom line: Yellow leaves usually mean overwatering or root rot. Check the soil moisture and roots immediately. Let the soil dry out more between waterings and make sure the soil is chunky and well-draining.

Root Rot

The problem: The plant’s roots turn black, mushy, and slimy. They smell sour or rotten. The plant declines rapidly—leaves turn yellow, stems become soft and weak, and the plant may collapse. Root rot is the most serious problem for Radicans and can kill the plant quickly if not addressed.

Why it happens:

Overwatering: The soil stays wet for extended periods (10+ days after watering). The roots can’t absorb oxygen when surrounded by water, so they suffocate and die. Dead roots rot.
Poor drainage: The soil is too dense (regular potting soil without bark or perlite) and holds too much water. Even if you don’t water frequently, the soil stays wet too long.
No drainage holes in the pot: Water accumulates at the bottom of the pot and the roots sit in standing water. This is guaranteed root rot.
Pot is too large: If the pot is much larger than the root ball, the excess soil stays wet for weeks because the roots can’t absorb the water fast enough. This creates a rot risk.

How to fix it:

Unpot the plant immediately. Gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off the old soil so you can inspect the roots.
Inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white, tan, or light brown and firm to the touch. Rotten roots are black, mushy, slimy, and may smell foul. If more than 50% of the roots are rotten, the plant may not survive. But it’s worth trying to save it.
Trim off all rotten roots. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (sterilize with rubbing alcohol). Cut away all black, mushy roots until you reach healthy, firm, white or tan roots. Be aggressive—it’s better to remove all the rot than to leave any behind.
Repot in fresh, chunky soil. Use a well-draining aroid mix (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss). Do not reuse the old soil—it may be contaminated with rot-causing pathogens.
Choose a pot that’s appropriately sized. The pot should be only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the root ball (which may be much smaller now after trimming rotten roots). A smaller pot dries out faster, reducing rot risk.
Water very sparingly for the first 2 to 4 weeks. The plant has fewer roots now, so it can’t absorb as much water. Water only when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil are dry. Err on the side of underwatering during recovery.
Increase humidity to 70 to 80% during recovery. High humidity reduces the plant’s need to drink, which is helpful when it has fewer roots. Use a humidifier or place the pot in a clear plastic bag (remove the bag for 30 minutes daily for airflow).
Be patient. It can take 4 to 8 weeks for the plant to recover and start growing new roots. Don’t expect new growth during this time.

Bottom line: Root rot is caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Trim all rotten roots, repot in fresh chunky soil, water sparingly, and increase humidity during recovery. Prevention is easier than cure—always use chunky, well-draining soil and let the soil dry out between waterings.

Plant Not Climbing or Growing Upward

The problem: You have a moss pole or support structure in the pot, but the plant isn’t climbing. The stems flop over, trail downward, or just sit there without attaching to the moss pole. The plant doesn’t produce aerial roots or the roots don’t attach to the pole.

Why it happens:

The moss pole is dry: Radicans’ aerial roots seek moisture. If the moss pole is completely dry, the roots have no incentive to attach. They just dangle in the air or grow downward toward the soil (where the moisture is).
No support structure: If there’s no moss pole or trellis in the pot, the plant has nothing to climb. It will trail downward instead.
Insufficient humidity: In very low humidity (below 50%), the plant may not produce strong, healthy aerial roots. The roots that do form may be weak and unable to attach.
Low light: In low light, the plant grows slowly and weakly, and doesn’t produce vigorous climbing growth or strong aerial roots.

How to fix it:

Keep the moss pole moist at all times. Spray or mist the moss pole daily with water. You want the moss to feel damp to the touch (not dripping wet, but not dry). Radicans’ aerial roots will seek out the moist moss and attach naturally over time (2 to 4 weeks). This is the #1 fix.
Tie the stems to the moss pole gently. Use soft plant ties, velcro strips, or twine (not tight—leave room for the stem to grow and thicken). Position the stems so they’re touching or very close to the moss pole. This encourages the aerial roots to reach out and attach.
Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. Higher humidity encourages the plant to produce more and stronger aerial roots. Use a humidifier or move the plant to a naturally humid room.
Increase light. Move the plant to a brighter location (still indirect) to encourage more vigorous climbing growth. East-facing windows are ideal.
Be patient. It can take 2 to 4 weeks (sometimes longer) for the aerial roots to attach to the moss pole, especially if the plant is young or the moss pole is new. Once the roots attach, the plant will climb more actively on its own.

Bottom line: Keep the moss pole moist daily and tie the stems gently to the pole. Radicans will climb when the moss pole is consistently damp and the plant is getting enough light and humidity.

Slow or No Growth

The problem: The plant produces few or no new leaves. Growth feels slow or stalled. You’re waiting months between new leaves.

Why it happens:

Normal growth rate (most likely): Radicans is a moderate grower, not a fast grower like Pothos or Philodendron Brasil. In optimal conditions, a mature, healthy Radicans produces 1 to 2 new leaves per month during the growing season (spring and summer). In fall and winter, growth naturally slows or stops completely—this is normal seasonal dormancy. If you’re getting 1 new leaf per month during spring and summer, your plant is healthy and growing normally.
Low light: Insufficient light slows growth significantly. In low light, the plant may produce only 1 new leaf every 2 to 3+ months.
Lack of nutrients: If you haven’t fertilized in 6+ months, the plant may be nutrient-deficient and unable to produce new growth.
Root-bound: If the roots are extremely crowded and growing out of the drainage holes or circling tightly around the soil surface, the plant may slow its growth because there’s no room for the roots to expand.
Seasonal dormancy (normal in fall and winter): Most tropical houseplants, including Radicans, slow down or stop growing in fall and winter when temperatures drop and daylight hours decrease. This is completely normal. Growth will resume in spring when light and temperatures increase.

How to fix it:

Set realistic expectations. Radicans is not a fast grower. 1 to 2 new leaves per month in spring and summer is normal. In fall and winter, expect little to no growth.
Increase light if the plant is in a dim location. Move closer to an east-facing window or add a grow light. More light = faster growth.
Fertilize regularly during the growing season. Every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer with balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. This supports steady, healthy growth.
Check if the plant is root-bound. Gently lift the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots. If the roots are tightly circling the soil or growing out of the drainage holes, it’s time to repot. Move up to a pot that’s 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter. Repot in fresh, chunky aroid mix.
Be patient in fall and winter. If it’s fall or winter and the plant isn’t growing, this is normal. Don’t fertilize, don’t increase watering, and don’t worry. Growth will resume in spring.

Bottom line: Radicans is a moderate grower. If you’re getting 1 to 2 new leaves per month in spring and summer, your plant is healthy. If growth is slower, increase light and fertilize regularly.

Leaves Curling Inward or Downward

The problem: The leaves curl inward along the edges or curl downward. The plant looks stressed and unhappy.

Why it happens:

Low humidity (most common cause): When the air is too dry (below 50%), the leaves curl inward to reduce their surface area and minimize water loss through transpiration. This is a stress response to low humidity.
Underwatering (less common for Radicans): If the soil dries out completely and stays dry for extended periods, the leaves may curl as the plant tries to conserve water. However, this is rare for Radicans because overwatering is a much more common problem.
Heat stress: If the plant is exposed to temperatures above 85°F or placed near a heat source (heater vent, radiator), the leaves may curl.

How to fix it:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. This is the most likely fix. Use a cool-mist humidifier placed 3 to 6 feet from the plant and run it 24/7. Or move the plant to a naturally humid room (bathroom with a window).
Check the soil moisture. Stick your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil. If it’s bone-dry, water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom. Then make sure you’re watering when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry, not waiting until the entire pot is completely dry.
Move the plant away from heat sources. Don’t place Radicans near heater vents, radiators, space heaters, or in direct hot sun.
Be patient. Once you increase humidity or fix the watering, the curled leaves won’t uncurl (they’re permanently shaped that way), but new growth will come in flat and healthy.

Bottom line: Curling leaves = low humidity or underwatering. Increase humidity to 60 to 80% and water more consistently.

Pest Issues (Thrips, Spider Mites, or Aphids)

The problem: You notice tiny insects on the leaves or stems. The leaves may have yellow or white speckled spots, tiny black dots (thrips feces), or fine webbing (spider mites). The plant looks unhealthy and damaged.

Why it happens:

Pests are rare on Radicans if you maintain high humidity. Most common houseplant pests (spider mites, thrips, aphids) prefer dry conditions. If you keep humidity at 60 to 80%, pests are unlikely.
If pests do appear, it’s usually because:
- You brought home an infested plant from a nursery or garden center and didn’t quarantine it.
- The plant has been in very low humidity (below 40%) for extended periods, which weakens the plant and makes it more susceptible to pests.

How to fix it:

Isolate the plant immediately. Move it away from other houseplants so the pests don’t spread.
Identify the pest:
- Thrips: Tiny, slender, dark brown or black insects (1-2mm long). They move quickly when disturbed. You’ll see yellow or white speckled spots on the leaves (from their feeding) and tiny black dots (their feces).
- Spider mites: Extremely tiny (barely visible to the naked eye). You’ll see fine webbing on the undersides of leaves or between stems. The leaves may have yellow or white speckled spots and look dull or dusty.
- Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects (2-3mm long), usually green, yellow, or black. They cluster on new growth or the undersides of leaves.
Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap:
- Neem oil: Mix according to package instructions (usually 2 tablespoons neem oil per gallon of water, plus a few drops of dish soap as an emulsifier). Spray the entire plant thoroughly, covering the tops and undersides of all leaves and the stems. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks until the pests are gone.
- Insecticidal soap: Spray the entire plant thoroughly. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks.
Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. This makes the environment less hospitable to pests and helps the plant recover faster.
Monitor closely for 4 to 6 weeks. Check the plant every few days to make sure the pests don’t return. If they reappear, repeat treatment.

Bottom line: Pests are rare on Radicans if you maintain high humidity (60 to 80%). If pests appear, isolate the plant, treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap, and increase humidity.

Propagating Anthurium Radicans

Radicans can be propagated by stem cuttings (most common and reliable) or division (if the plant has multiple growth points). Propagation is moderately easy—not as easy as Pothos or Philodendron, but more forgiving than rare velvet anthuriums like Veitchii or Warocqueanum. The key to success is high humidity (70 to 80%) and patience.

When to Propagate

The best time to propagate is spring or early summer, when the plant is actively growing. Radicans produces new roots faster during the growing season. Avoid propagating in fall or winter when growth slows or stops—cuttings take much longer to root and have a higher failure rate.

What You’ll Need

A healthy stem section with 1 to 2 nodes. The node is the small bump or ridge on the stem where leaves attach. Nodes are where new roots form. Without a node, the cutting won’t root.
An aerial root (ideal but not required). If you can take a cutting that already has an aerial root growing from the node, it will root faster and more reliably. But cuttings without aerial roots can still root—it just takes longer.
Clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (sterilized with rubbing alcohol). Dirty tools can introduce bacteria or fungus that cause rot.
Rooting medium: Moist sphagnum moss (best for humidity and aeration), chunky aroid mix, perlite, or water (slowest, higher rot risk).
A small pot (3 to 4 inches) with drainage holes (if rooting in soil or moss).
A way to increase humidity: Clear plastic bag, propagation box, or small greenhouse cabinet. High humidity is critical for rooting success.

How to Take a Stem Cutting

Choose a healthy stem section. Look for a section with:
- At least 1 to 2 nodes (the small bumps where leaves attach).
- At least one aerial root attached to the node (if possible—this speeds up rooting significantly).
- 1 to 2 leaves attached (the leaves help the cutting photosynthesize and produce energy for rooting, but remove any leaves that would be buried in the rooting medium).
- No signs of disease, pests, or damage.
Cut below the node. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (sterilized with rubbing alcohol). Make the cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the node. The cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long total. The node must be included in the cutting—this is where the new roots will form.
Remove the bottom leaves. If there are any leaves near the bottom of the cutting that would be buried in the rooting medium, remove them. You want the node exposed and in contact with the rooting medium. Leave 1 to 2 leaves at the top of the cutting.
Let the cutting air-dry for 10 to 15 minutes (optional but recommended). This allows the cut end to callus slightly, which can reduce the risk of rot. Don’t wait longer than 30 minutes—the cutting will dry out.

Rooting the Cutting

You have several options for rooting medium. Sphagnum moss is the best option for Radicans because it retains moisture, provides excellent aeration, and makes it easy to maintain high humidity.

Option 1: Sphagnum Moss (Best Option)

Soak sphagnum moss in water for 5 to 10 minutes. Squeeze out the excess water so the moss is moist but not dripping wet.
Place the cutting in the moist moss. Bury the node (and aerial root, if present) in the moss. The node must be in contact with the moss to produce roots. Leave the leaves above the moss.
Place the moss and cutting in a small pot or clear container. A clear container lets you monitor root growth without disturbing the cutting.
Increase humidity to 70 to 80%. This is critical. Place the pot or container inside a clear plastic bag (zip-top bag works well) or a propagation box. Make sure the bag doesn’t touch the leaves—use chopsticks or small stakes to prop it up if needed. Or place the cutting in a small greenhouse cabinet.
Place in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun—it will overheat the cutting inside the plastic bag and cause the leaves to burn. East-facing windows are ideal.
Check the moss every few days. The moss should stay moist (not soggy, not dry). Mist the moss lightly if it’s drying out. Open the plastic bag for 10 to 15 minutes every 3 to 4 days to allow airflow and prevent fungus.
Be patient. Radicans cuttings typically root in 4 to 8 weeks. You’ll see new white roots growing out of the node and into the moss. Once the roots are 2 to 3 inches long, the cutting is ready to pot in soil.

Option 2: Chunky Aroid Mix

Prepare a small pot (3 to 4 inches) with chunky aroid mix (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss). Water the soil lightly so it’s moist but not soggy.
Plant the cutting. Bury the node (and aerial root, if present) in the soil. Firm the soil gently around the cutting so it stands upright. The node must be in contact with the soil.
Increase humidity to 70 to 80%. Place the pot inside a clear plastic bag or propagation box, or place it in a greenhouse cabinet.
Place in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun.
Keep the soil lightly moist (not soggy). Check the soil every 3 to 4 days. Water lightly if the top inch is dry. Overwatering is the #1 cause of cutting failure—it causes rot.
Be patient. Rooting takes 4 to 8 weeks. Once you see new growth (a new leaf emerging), the cutting has rooted successfully.

Option 3: Water Propagation (Slower, Higher Rot Risk)

Place the cutting in a small glass or jar filled with water. The node (and aerial root, if present) should be submerged in the water. The leaves should be above the water.
Place in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun.
Change the water every 3 to 4 days to prevent bacteria buildup and rot.
Be patient. Water propagation is slower for Radicans than sphagnum moss or soil. Rooting can take 6 to 10+ weeks. The cutting is more prone to rot in water, especially if the water isn’t changed regularly.
Once roots are 2 to 3 inches long, transfer the cutting to soil. Plant in a small pot with chunky aroid mix. Keep humidity high (70 to 80%) for the first 2 to 3 weeks as the cutting adjusts to soil.

Propagating by Division

If your Radicans has multiple stems or growth points growing from the base of the pot, you can divide the plant instead of taking cuttings. This is faster and more reliable than stem cuttings because each division already has an established root system.

When to divide: Spring or early summer, during repotting, when the plant is actively growing.

How to divide:

Unpot the plant. Gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off the old soil so you can see the roots and stems clearly.
Identify separate growth points. Look for clumps of stems that have their own root systems. Each clump should have at least 1 to 2 stems and a portion of the root ball attached.
Gently separate the clumps. Use your hands to pull the clumps apart, or use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut through the roots if they’re tightly tangled. Be gentle—you want to preserve as many roots as possible for each division.
Pot each division separately. Plant each division in its own pot (appropriately sized—not too large) with fresh, chunky aroid mix. Water lightly to settle the soil.
Keep humidity high (70 to 80%) for the first 2 to 3 weeks. This helps the divisions recover from the stress of being separated. Use a humidifier or place the pots in a propagation box or plastic bag.
Be patient. The divisions may look a bit sad or droopy for the first 1 to 2 weeks as they adjust. New growth should appear within 3 to 6 weeks if the divisions are healthy.

Tips for Propagation Success

High humidity (70 to 80%) is critical. This is the #1 factor for propagation success. Without high humidity, cuttings dry out and fail to root.
Be patient. Radicans is not a fast-rooting plant. Expect 4 to 8 weeks for roots to develop. Don’t give up if you don’t see roots immediately.
Don’t move or disturb the cutting. Leave it in one spot and let it root undisturbed. Moving it around or checking it constantly stresses the cutting and slows rooting.
Rooting hormone (optional). Dipping the cut end in rooting hormone powder (available at garden centers) can speed up rooting slightly and increase success rates. It’s not required, but it can help.
Choose cuttings with aerial roots if possible. Cuttings that already have an aerial root attached root faster and more reliably than cuttings without aerial roots.

Success Rate

Radicans has a moderate propagation success rate (60 to 80% success for most growers). It’s easier than rare velvet anthuriums like Veitchii or Magnificum, but not as easy as Pothos or Philodendron Brasil. The most common cause of failure is low humidity (cutting dries out) or overwatering (cutting rots). If you maintain high humidity (70 to 80%) and keep the rooting medium lightly moist (not soggy), your cuttings should root successfully.

Why Radicans Is Unique

Anthurium Radicans stands out from other anthuriums—and from other climbing houseplants in general—for several compelling reasons. If you’re a collector who wants something visually unique, conversation-starting, and versatile in display options, Radicans checks all the boxes.

1. Striped Petioles (The Standout Feature)

The zebra-striped stems (petioles) are Radicans’ signature feature and what makes this plant instantly recognizable. The petioles have alternating light and dark bands that create a bold, high-contrast zebra-like pattern. No other common anthurium has this striping. Most anthuriums have solid green, burgundy, or reddish petioles. Radicans’ striped stems are visually dramatic and eye-catching, especially when the plant is displayed against a plain background or in bright, indirect light that highlights the contrast.

Why collectors love the stripes: The striped petioles are a unique visual element that makes Radicans stand out in any houseplant collection. When you see a Radicans, you immediately recognize it—the stripes are unmistakable. For plant collectors who want something different and distinctive, the striped stems are the entire reason to grow this plant.

Important: The stripes are most dramatic in bright, indirect light (6 to 8 hours daily). In low light, the stripes fade and lose contrast, making the plant look generic. If you want bold, high-contrast stripes, you must provide adequate light.

2. Climbing Habit with Versatile Display Options

Unlike most foliage anthuriums (which have a compact, bushy growth habit), Radicans is a true climber. It produces aerial roots and actively climbs upward when given a moss pole or trellis. This climbing habit makes Radicans incredibly versatile in how you display it:

Vertical growth with a moss pole: Place a moss pole or trellis in the center of the pot, and Radicans will climb upward, reaching 3 to 4+ feet tall at maturity. This is a space-saving option that creates a dramatic vertical focal point. Perfect for small apartments, corners, or shelves where horizontal space is limited.
Trailing or cascading in a hanging basket: If you don’t provide a support structure, Radicans will trail downward, spilling over the edges of a hanging basket or high shelf. The long stems cascade gracefully, creating a curtain-like effect. The striped stems are especially striking when they trail downward, catching the light at different angles.

Why this matters: Many collectors prefer climbing plants because they’re more dynamic and interesting than static, bushy plants. Radicans gives you flexibility—you can choose to display it as a climber or a trailer depending on your space and aesthetic preferences. This versatility is rare among anthuriums.

3. Intermediate Difficulty (Approachable for Rare Anthurium Learners)

Radicans is moderately difficult to care for—it’s not a beginner plant, but it’s also not as challenging as rare, high-maintenance anthuriums like Veitchii (King Anthurium with 6-foot pendulous leaves) or Warocqueanum (Queen Anthurium with velvety leaves and prominent white veins).

What makes Radicans more forgiving:

Humidity requirements (60 to 80%) are high, but not as extreme as Veitchii or Warocqueanum (which need 70 to 90% and struggle below 70%). Radicans can tolerate humidity as low as 50% for short periods without severe damage, though it won’t thrive.
Faster recovery from care mistakes. If you underwater or let the humidity drop temporarily, Radicans is more resilient than ultra-rare anthuriums. It may show brown edges or fading stripes, but it usually bounces back once conditions improve.
More widely available and affordable. Radicans is easier to find at specialty plant shops or online retailers, and it’s priced at $40 to $120 depending on size. Compare that to Veitchii ($150 to $600+) or Warocqueanum ($100 to $500+). If you’re interested in rare anthuriums but intimidated by the price and difficulty, Radicans is a great stepping stone.

Why this matters: Radicans is an excellent intermediate plant for collectors who want to learn how to care for high-humidity, epiphytic anthuriums without the expense and stress of ultra-rare species. It teaches you the skills—high humidity, chunky soil, moss pole care—that you’ll need if you decide to move on to more challenging species like Veitchii or Luxurians.

4. Collector Appeal and Conversation-Starter

Radicans is moderately rare—it’s not as common as Pothos or Philodendron Brasil, but it’s not as elusive as Veitchii or Warocqueanum. This “moderately rare” status makes it appealing to collectors who want something unique and interesting without breaking the bank or waiting months on a wishlist.

Why collectors seek out Radicans:

The striped stems are a conversation-starter. When visitors or fellow plant enthusiasts see the zebra-striped petioles, they immediately ask, “What is that plant?” It’s visually unusual and memorable.
It’s a “next-level” plant. If you’ve mastered common houseplants (Pothos, Philodendron, Monstera Deliciosa) and want to challenge yourself with something more interesting, Radicans is a natural next step. It’s more challenging than beginner plants, but not impossibly difficult.
It’s an anthurium with personality. Many foliage anthuriums (Clarinervium, Crystallinum, Magnificum) are prized for their large, velvety leaves with prominent veining. Radicans is different—it’s prized for its stems, not its leaves. This makes it stand out in a collection of anthuriums.

Pricing and availability: Radicans typically costs $40 to $120 depending on size, maturity, and seller. Small, rooted cuttings or juvenile plants start around $40 to $60. Larger, more established plants with multiple growth points can cost $80 to $120. This is significantly more affordable than Veitchii ($150 to $600+) or Warocqueanum ($100 to $500+), making Radicans accessible to more collectors.

5. Compact Size (Compared to Giant Anthuriums)

Unlike Veitchii (with 6-foot pendulous leaves) or Warocqueanum (with 4-foot leaves), Radicans is relatively compact. At maturity, Radicans climbs to 3 to 4 feet tall (with a moss pole) or trails 3 to 4+ feet downward (in a hanging basket). The leaves are narrow and elongated (4 to 8 inches long), so they don’t take up as much horizontal space as large-leaved anthuriums.

Why this matters: Radicans fits in smaller spaces—apartments, bedrooms, bathrooms—where giant anthuriums like Veitchii or Warocqueanum would be impractical. You don’t need 6+ feet of vertical ceiling height or a dedicated corner for a single plant. Radicans is manageable and doesn’t dominate the room.

Bottom Line: Why Radicans Is Unique

Anthurium Radicans is unique because:

Zebra-striped petioles (no other common anthurium has this).
Versatile climbing/trailing habit (vertical growth with moss pole or cascading in hanging basket).
Intermediate difficulty (more forgiving than Veitchii/Warocqueanum, great stepping stone for rare anthurium learners).
Collector appeal (moderately rare, conversation-starter, more affordable than ultra-rare species).
Compact size (fits in smaller spaces, doesn’t require massive rooms or 6+ foot ceilings).

If you want a unique, visually striking anthurium with climbing versatility and manageable care requirements, Radicans is an excellent choice.

Toxicity

Anthurium Radicans is toxic to pets (cats, dogs) and humans. All parts of the plant—leaves, stems, roots, and any sap—contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are sharp, needle-like microscopic crystals that cause irritation and injury when chewed or ingested.

Symptoms of Ingestion

If a pet or human chews on or swallows any part of the plant, they may experience:

In pets (cats and dogs):

Immediate mouth and tongue irritation: Burning sensation, pain, and discomfort. The pet may paw at their mouth or drool excessively.
Swelling of the mouth, tongue, and throat: This can make swallowing difficult or painful. In severe cases, throat swelling can obstruct breathing (rare but possible).
Excessive drooling or foaming at the mouth.
Vomiting: The pet may vomit shortly after ingesting the plant.
Difficulty swallowing or loss of appetite: The pain and swelling make eating or drinking uncomfortable.
Lethargy or hiding: The pet may act unwell or hide due to discomfort.

In humans (especially children):

Burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue, lips, and throat.
Swelling of the mouth, tongue, or throat. This can make swallowing difficult.
Excessive drooling.
Nausea or vomiting (less common in humans than in pets).
Difficulty speaking or swallowing (in severe cases with significant swelling).

Severity

The symptoms are mild to moderate in most cases. Radicans is rarely life-threatening, but it is extremely painful and uncomfortable. The calcium oxalate crystals cause immediate, intense irritation, so most pets or humans will stop chewing after the first bite because of the pain. However, young children or curious pets may ingest more before stopping.

The biggest risk is throat swelling, which can obstruct breathing in rare, severe cases. This is more likely in small children or small pets (like cats or small dogs) who ingest a large amount. If you suspect throat swelling or difficulty breathing, seek emergency medical or veterinary attention immediately.

What to Do If Your Pet or Child Ingests Radicans

For pets (cats or dogs):

Remove any plant material from the pet’s mouth immediately. Gently wipe the mouth and tongue with a damp cloth to remove any remaining plant particles.
Rinse the pet’s mouth gently with water (if the pet tolerates it). You can use a syringe or spray bottle to rinse the mouth. Do not force water down the pet’s throat.
Call your veterinarian immediately. Describe the symptoms and tell them the plant is Anthurium (calcium oxalate toxicity). Bring a sample of the plant or a photo for identification.
Monitor the pet closely for the next 2 to 4 hours. Watch for increased drooling, swelling, vomiting, difficulty breathing, or lethargy. If symptoms worsen or you see signs of throat swelling or breathing difficulty, go to an emergency veterinary clinic immediately.
Do not induce vomiting unless instructed by a veterinarian. Vomiting can worsen throat irritation in some cases.
Offer the pet water or milk to drink (if the pet is willing). Milk can help dilute the calcium oxalate crystals and coat the mouth and throat, reducing irritation. Ice chips or ice water can also help numb the pain.

For humans (adults or children):

Remove any plant material from the mouth immediately. Rinse the mouth thoroughly with water. Spit out the water—do not swallow it.
Drink water or milk to dilute the calcium oxalate crystals and soothe the mouth and throat. Milk is especially helpful because it coats the irritated tissues. Small sips of ice water or sucking on ice chips can help numb the pain.
Do not induce vomiting unless instructed by a medical professional.
Call Poison Control or seek medical attention if symptoms are severe. In the U.S., call the Poison Control Hotline at 1-800-222-1222 for guidance. If you see signs of throat swelling (difficulty swallowing, difficulty breathing, swelling of the lips or tongue), call 911 or go to an emergency room immediately.
Monitor the person closely for the next 2 to 4 hours. Symptoms usually peak within 30 minutes to 2 hours and then gradually improve. If symptoms worsen or new symptoms appear (difficulty breathing, severe swelling), seek emergency medical care.

Most cases of Anthurium ingestion resolve on their own within a few hours to a day. The pain and irritation gradually subside as the calcium oxalate crystals are flushed out or broken down. However, children and pets are especially vulnerable because they may not understand the danger and may ingest more before stopping.

Skin and Eye Irritation

In addition to ingestion, handling the plant can cause skin or eye irritation in sensitive individuals, though this is less common than ingestion issues.

Skin irritation: The sap (released when you cut or damage the stems or leaves) contains calcium oxalate crystals. If the sap contacts your skin, it may cause redness, itching, burning, or a rash. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling Radicans, especially if you’re pruning, repotting, or propagating.
Eye irritation: If sap gets in your eyes (for example, if you touch your face after handling the plant without washing your hands), it can cause burning, redness, and tearing. Rinse your eyes immediately with clean water for 10 to 15 minutes and seek medical attention if irritation persists.

If you have sensitive skin or known plant allergies, wear gloves when handling Radicans.

How to Prevent Accidental Ingestion

Keep Radicans out of reach of pets and children. Place it on a high shelf, in a hanging basket, or in a room that pets and children don’t have access to (for example, a home office with a closed door or a bathroom with a window but no pet access).
Teach children not to touch or eat houseplants. Explain that all houseplants (not just Radicans) can be harmful if eaten. Supervise young children around houseplants.
Supervise curious pets. Cats, in particular, are notorious for chewing on houseplants. If your cat shows interest in Radicans, move the plant to a location the cat cannot access, or consider using a deterrent spray (bitter apple spray) around the base of the plant to discourage chewing. However, the best solution is physical separation—keep the plant where the cat cannot reach it.
Use a moss pole or trellis. When Radicans climbs upward on a moss pole, the leaves and stems are higher off the ground and less accessible to curious pets or toddlers. Trailing Radicans in a hanging basket also keeps it out of reach.
Clean up fallen leaves immediately. If Radicans drops a leaf or you prune the plant, pick up and dispose of the leaf immediately. Pets or children may find and chew on fallen leaves.

Bottom Line: Radicans Is Toxic—Keep It Out of Reach

Anthurium Radicans contains calcium oxalate crystals and is toxic to pets and humans. Symptoms include mouth and throat irritation, swelling, excessive drooling, and vomiting. While rarely life-threatening, ingestion is extremely painful and uncomfortable. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and children, and seek veterinary or medical attention immediately if ingestion occurs. If you have curious pets (especially cats) or young children, consider whether Radicans is the right plant for your home, or plan to display it in a location that is completely inaccessible.

What To Do Next

Now that you know how to care for Anthurium Radicans, here are some practical next steps—whether you’re troubleshooting specific issues, looking for similar plants to try, or thinking about expanding your rare anthurium collection.

If You Love Climbing Plants with Unique Features, Try These:

Radicans’ climbing habit and striped stems make it stand out. If you love these qualities, here are similar climbers with unique visual appeal:

Monstera Peru (Monstera Karstenianum):
- Similarities: Climbing growth habit with a moss pole. Produces thick, leathery leaves with a beautiful texture (slightly puckered, almost quilted). Compact size (3 to 4 feet tall with a moss pole). Moderate care difficulty.
- Differences: Leaves are the standout feature (textured, dark green), not the stems. Easier care than Radicans—tolerates lower humidity (40 to 60%) and is more forgiving of underwatering. Faster growth.
- Best for: Collectors who love climbing plants but want something easier than Radicans. The textured leaves are visually striking and unusual.
Philodendron Verrucosum:
- Similarities: Climbing growth habit with a moss pole. High humidity requirements (60 to 80%, similar to Radicans). Stunning foliage with prominent veining. Collector appeal (moderately rare, priced $60 to $150+).
- Differences: The leaves are velvety with iridescent sheen and bright green or red veining—absolutely stunning. Care is similar to Radicans (high humidity, chunky soil, moss pole). Slower growth than Radicans.
- Best for: Collectors who want another high-humidity climber with jaw-dropping foliage. Verrucosum is one of the most beautiful climbing Philodendrons.
Philodendron Gloriosum:
- Similarities: High humidity requirements (60 to 80%). Prominent white or pink veining on large, velvety leaves (similar visual drama to rare anthuriums). Collector appeal.
- Differences: Crawler, not a climber. Gloriosum grows horizontally along the soil surface (it doesn’t climb upward). Leaves are massive (8 to 12+ inches long). Care is similar to Radicans but slower growth. Priced $60 to $200+ depending on size.
- Best for: Collectors who want a rare aroid with stunning foliage but prefer a crawler instead of a climber. Gloriosum is often called the “Queen of Philodendrons.”

If Radicans Is Too Fussy, Try These Easier Alternatives:

If you’re struggling with Radicans’ high humidity requirements or slow growth, here are easier climbing or trailing plants that have a similar aesthetic or care style:

Anthurium Clarinervium:
- Similarities: Another foliage anthurium with striking white veining on large, heart-shaped, velvety leaves. Collector appeal (moderately rare). Compact growth habit (non-climbing).
- Differences: Much easier care than Radicans. Clarinervium tolerates lower humidity (50 to 70%), is more forgiving of watering mistakes, and doesn’t need a moss pole. It has a bushy, compact growth habit instead of climbing. Priced $40 to $100.
- Best for: Collectors who want a beautiful anthurium but find Radicans too challenging. Clarinervium is a great “gateway” rare anthurium—easier than most rare species but still visually stunning.
Philodendron Brasil:
- Similarities: Climbing growth habit (grows upward with a moss pole or trails downward in a hanging basket). Versatile display options. Variegated foliage (green leaves with yellow or lime-green variegation—visually interesting).
- Differences: Much, much easier than Radicans. Brasil is nearly indestructible—it tolerates low light (though it won’t be as vibrant), low humidity (30 to 50% is fine), and irregular watering. Fast growth (produces new leaves every 1 to 2 weeks in optimal conditions). Widely available and inexpensive ($10 to $30).
- Best for: Beginners who want a climbing plant with visual interest but aren’t ready for Radicans’ demands. Brasil is perfect for learning how to train a plant on a moss pole without the stress of high-maintenance care.
Pothos (Golden Pothos, Marble Queen, or Jade Pothos):
- Similarities: Climbing or trailing growth habit (moss pole or hanging basket). Versatile display options. Lush, cascading foliage. Fast growth.
- Differences: The easiest climbing plant you can grow. Pothos tolerates low light, low humidity (20 to 40% is fine), and infrequent watering. Nearly impossible to kill. Extremely affordable ($5 to $20). No striped stems or unique features like Radicans, but incredibly reliable and beautiful.
- Best for: Absolute beginners or anyone who wants a low-maintenance climbing plant. Pothos is the gold standard for easy climbing houseplants.

If You Want More Rare Anthuriums, Here’s a Progression Path:

Radicans is an excellent intermediate-level rare anthurium. If you’ve successfully kept Radicans alive and thriving, you’re ready to tackle more challenging species. Here’s a logical progression:

Start with Radicans (You’re Here!):
- Learn high humidity (60 to 80%), chunky soil, and moss pole care.
- Radicans teaches you the basics of rare anthurium care without the expense or stress of ultra-rare species.
Next: Anthurium Crystallinum:
- Why it’s a good next step: Crystallinum is slightly more demanding than Radicans (needs 70 to 80% humidity consistently, very sensitive to low humidity), but it’s still more forgiving than Veitchii or Warocqueanum. Large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves with prominent white veining. Stunning foliage. Priced $50 to $150.
- What you’ll learn: How to maintain higher, more consistent humidity (70 to 80%). How to prevent brown edges and keep velvety leaves pristine. Patience (Crystallinum grows slowly—1 to 2 new leaves per year).
Then: Anthurium Magnificum:
- Why it’s a good next step: Magnificum is similar to Crystallinum (large, velvety leaves with white veining) but slightly more challenging. Needs 70 to 80% humidity and is sensitive to overwatering. Priced $100 to $250.
- What you’ll learn: Advanced humidity control (greenhouse cabinets or dedicated humidifiers are usually required). How to manage slow-growing, high-value plants (Magnificum is expensive and takes months to produce new leaves, so mistakes are costlier).
Advanced: Anthurium Veitchii (King) or Warocqueanum (Queen):
- Why they’re advanced: Both require 70 to 90% humidity (non-negotiable—brown edges are permanent damage if humidity drops below 70%). Both have massive leaves (Veitchii up to 6 feet long, Warocqueanum up to 4 feet long) that require significant space. Both are extremely expensive ($150 to $600+ for Veitchii, $100 to $500+ for Warocqueanum). Slow-growing (1 to 3 new leaves per year). Mistakes are costly and heartbreaking.
- What you’ll learn: How to provide greenhouse-level humidity (80 to 90%) using IKEA cabinets or custom setups. How to manage ultra-rare, high-maintenance plants. How to troubleshoot velvety or pendulous foliage issues.

Bottom line: If Radicans is thriving in your care, you’re ready to try Crystallinum next. If Crystallinum thrives, move on to Magnificum. Save Veitchii and Warocqueanum for when you’ve mastered high humidity and rare anthurium care.

Troubleshooting Specific Radicans Issues:

If you’re struggling with specific problems, here’s what to focus on:

Brown, crispy edges: Increase humidity to 60 to 80%. Use a cool-mist humidifier placed 3 to 6 feet from the plant and run it 24/7. Or move the plant to a naturally humid room (bathroom with a window).
Stripes fading or becoming less visible: Move the plant to a brighter location (still indirect). East-facing windows are ideal. Or add a full-spectrum LED grow light placed 18 to 24 inches above the plant and run it for 12 to 14 hours per day. The stripes are Radicans’ signature feature—they need bright light to stay bold and dramatic.
Plant not climbing or attaching to moss pole: Keep the moss pole moist at all times. Spray or mist the moss pole daily. Tie the stems gently to the moss pole with soft plant ties or velcro strips. Be patient—it can take 2 to 4 weeks for the aerial roots to attach.
Slow growth: Radicans is a moderate grower (1 to 2 new leaves per month in spring and summer is normal). Increase light and fertilize regularly (every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer with balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength) to support faster growth. Be patient in fall and winter—growth slows or stops completely during the dormant season.
Yellow leaves: This is almost always overwatering or root rot. Let the soil dry out more between waterings (water only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry). Check the roots—if they’re black, mushy, or smell sour, see the Root Rot section above.

Displaying Radicans Creatively:

Radicans’ climbing/trailing versatility gives you lots of creative display options:

Vertical garden or plant wall: Mount a moss pole or trellis on a wall and train Radicans to climb upward. This creates a living wall effect and saves horizontal space. Perfect for small apartments or offices.
Hanging basket or high shelf: Let Radicans trail downward in a hanging basket or from a high shelf. The long, striped stems cascade gracefully, creating a curtain-like effect. This is a stunning display option and keeps the plant out of reach of pets and children.
Mixed terrarium with other humidity-loving plants: If you have a large terrarium or greenhouse cabinet, Radicans pairs beautifully with other high-humidity aroids like Philodendron Verrucosum, Anthurium Clarinervium, or Alocasia species. The enclosed environment maintains 70 to 80%+ humidity naturally, and the plants create a lush, tropical display.
Bathroom display (if you have a window): Bathrooms are naturally humid (especially after showers), making them ideal for Radicans. Place the plant on a shelf or windowsill in a bathroom with a window (east- or north-facing is ideal). However, bathrooms without windows (no natural light) won’t work—Radicans needs 6 to 8 hours of bright, indirect light daily.

Join the Rare Anthurium Community:

If you’re serious about growing rare anthuriums like Radicans, join online communities of fellow collectors. These groups are invaluable for learning, troubleshooting, and sharing your progress:

Reddit: r/RareHouseplants, r/Aroids, r/Anthurium. These communities are full of experienced collectors who share care tips, troubleshoot problems, and post stunning photos of their plants.
Facebook Groups: Search for “Rare Anthurium Collectors,” “Aroid Addicts,” or “Houseplant Hobbyists.” These groups often have buy/sell/trade threads where you can find rare anthuriums from other collectors (often cheaper and healthier than big-box stores or online retailers).
Instagram: Follow hashtags like #AnthumiumRadicans, #RareAnthuriums, #AroidAddicts. You’ll see creative display ideas, troubleshooting advice, and inspiration from collectors around the world.

Why this matters: Rare anthurium care can be challenging and isolating if you’re doing it alone. Online communities provide support, encouragement, and practical advice from people who’ve been there. Don’t hesitate to ask questions or share your struggles—collectors are generally very helpful and encouraging.

Bottom Line: What To Do Next

If you love climbers: Try Monstera Peru (easier), Philodendron Verrucosum (similar care), or Philodendron Gloriosum (crawler, not climber).
If Radicans is too fussy: Try Anthurium Clarinervium (easier anthurium), Philodendron Brasil (much easier climber), or Pothos (easiest climber).
If you want more rare anthuriums: Progress from Radicans → Crystallinum → Magnificum → Veitchii/Warocqueanum.
If you’re troubleshooting: Brown edges = increase humidity. Fading stripes = increase light. Not climbing = keep moss pole moist. Slow growth = normal, be patient. Yellow leaves = overwatering, check roots.
If you want creative displays: Vertical garden, hanging basket, mixed terrarium, or bathroom with a window.
Join the community: Reddit, Facebook groups, Instagram. Connect with other rare anthurium collectors for support, advice, and inspiration.

Radicans is a rewarding plant with unique visual appeal. With the right care—bright indirect light, 60 to 80% humidity, chunky soil, and a moist moss pole—it will thrive and become a stunning focal point in your collection.