Anthurium Papillilaminum Care: The Bumpy Paddle Anthurium

Anthurium Papillilaminum is one of the most unique and tactile anthuriums you can grow. The leaves are round, paddle-shaped, and covered in tiny raised bumps (called papillae) that give them a textured, almost reptilian or crocodile-skin appearance. When you run your fingers over the leaves, you can feel the bumps—it is like touching textured leather or snakeskin. The veins are pale cream or white, and they stand out against the dark green, bumpy surface. The overall effect is striking and unusual.

The leaves grow on upright stems and can reach 6 to 10 inches across when the plant is mature and happy. The bumpy texture becomes more pronounced as the leaves mature and harden off.

Papillilaminum is similar to Anthurium Forgetii (which also has round, paddle-shaped leaves) but with the added texture. The bumps are the defining feature. It needs high humidity (60 to 80 percent), chunky soil, and is sensitive to overwatering. But it is more forgiving than Anthurium Warocqueanum (Queen Anthurium) or Anthurium Veitchii (King Anthurium), which are notoriously difficult.

Papillilaminum is also rare and expensive. Expect to pay $100 to $250 or more for a mature plant, depending on size and availability. But if you love unusual, textured foliage and want a rare anthurium that is a conversation starter, Papillilaminum delivers.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Clumping, upright (round textured leaves)
Biggest challenge: High humidity and sensitive to overwatering

Light

Anthurium Papillilaminum needs bright, indirect light to maintain its bumpy texture and pale veins. In lower light, the texture becomes less pronounced and the leaves grow smaller. In too much light, the leaves bleach and scorch.

Best light:

East-facing window (bright morning sun, no harsh afternoon sun)
A few feet back from a south or west window (3 to 5 feet)
Near a north-facing window works if the room is bright overall
Or under a grow light (12 to 14 hours per day)

Signs of too little light:

Texture (bumps) becomes less pronounced on new leaves
Pale veins fade (less contrast)
Leaves grow smaller than normal
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks during growing season)
Stems stretch and lean toward the light

If the texture is fading, move the plant closer to a window or add a grow light. New leaves will have more pronounced bumps in brighter light.

Signs of too much light:

Leaves fade to pale green or yellow (washed out, bleached)
Brown, crispy, scorched edges or patches
Leaves lose their dark green color

Direct sun will scorch the leaves. If you see scorching, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain to diffuse the light.

Papillilaminum does best in consistent, bright indirect light year-round. If your home has low light in winter, a grow light helps maintain texture development and growth.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry (stick your finger in to check). Anthurium Papillilaminum is sensitive to overwatering—the roots rot quickly if the soil stays wet for too long. But it also does not like to dry out completely. The goal is evenly moist (not wet, not dry).

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil by sticking your finger in
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Empty the saucer within 30 minutes (do not let the plant sit in water)
Wait until the top inch dries out again before watering

Typical schedule:

Growing season (spring and summer): Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season (fall and winter): Every 10 to 14 days

The schedule depends on your home conditions. In a warm, dry home, you might water every 5 days. In a cooler, more humid home, every 10 to 14 days might be enough.

Do not let the soil stay soggy. Anthuriums are prone to root rot, and Papillilaminum is no exception. If the soil is still wet after a week, the pot is too large, the soil does not drain well enough, or the plant is not getting enough light (which slows water uptake).

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves at the base)
Soft, mushy stems
Black or brown rot on the roots
Foul smell from the soil
Soil stays wet for more than a week

If you see signs of overwatering, stop watering immediately. Unpot the plant and check the roots. Trim off any black, mushy roots with clean scissors. Repot in fresh, chunky soil. Water less frequently going forward.

Signs of underwatering:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (can also be low humidity, but check soil first)
Leaves droop and curl inward
Soil is bone dry and pulls away from the pot
Older leaves turn yellow and drop

If the soil is completely dry, give the plant a thorough watering. The leaves should perk up within 24 hours. If they do not, the roots may be damaged.

Bottom line: Anthuriums like consistent moisture. Not wet. Not dry. Just evenly moist. Think of a wrung-out sponge—damp but not dripping.

Humidity

High humidity is non-negotiable for Anthurium Papillilaminum. This plant comes from humid tropical rainforests where humidity is 70 to 90 percent year-round. In average household humidity (30 to 50 percent), Papillilaminum struggles and the leaves develop brown, crispy edges.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent (minimum 60 percent).

How to measure humidity:

Use a hygrometer (cheap, $10 or less)
Place it near the plant to get an accurate reading

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (best option):
- A cool mist humidifier running 12 to 24 hours per day is the most reliable way to maintain high humidity
- Place the humidifier near the plant (within a few feet)
- Refill daily
- Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity
Place in a humid bathroom (if it has a window):
- Bathrooms naturally have higher humidity from showers
- Only works if the bathroom has bright indirect light
Group with other tropical plants:
- Plants release moisture through transpiration, which raises humidity slightly
- This alone is not enough for Papillilaminum, but it helps
Use a humidity tray (minimal effect):
- Fill a tray with pebbles and water, set the pot on top (not touching the water)
- This raises humidity immediately around the plant by a few percentage points
- Not enough on its own for Papillilaminum, but better than nothing

What does NOT work:

Misting the leaves (raises humidity for 5 minutes, then evaporates)
Putting a glass cloche over the plant (traps moisture but blocks airflow, which causes mold and rot)

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (the most obvious sign)
Leaf tips turn brown and curl inward
New leaves unfurl with brown edges already (damage happened while the leaf was still forming)
Leaves curl and the bumpy texture looks less prominent
Spider mites (they thrive in low humidity)

If you see brown edges, increase the humidity immediately. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is high enough.

Reality check: If you cannot maintain 60 percent humidity, Papillilaminum will struggle. You will constantly fight brown edges. A humidifier is a worthwhile investment if you want to grow this plant (and other high-humidity anthuriums and tropicals).

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, chunky soil. Anthuriums need more aeration than most houseplants because their roots need oxygen. If the soil is too dense or stays wet too long, the roots suffocate and rot.

Best soil mix:

40% potting soil (provides nutrients and structure)
30% orchid bark (adds chunkiness and drainage)
20% perlite (improves drainage and aeration)
10% peat moss or coco coir (retains some moisture without staying soggy)

This mix should feel light and chunky. When you water, it should drain quickly (within a few seconds). If water pools on the surface or the soil stays wet for more than a few days, add more bark and perlite.

Alternative mixes:

Aroid mix (pre-made mixes for philodendrons, monsteras, and anthuriums work great)
Or: 50% potting soil, 50% orchid bark (simpler, still works)

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes (non-negotiable)
Not too large (anthuriums prefer being slightly rootbound)

Pot size: Use a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball. Anthuriums do not like oversized pots—the soil stays wet too long and the roots rot. When you repot, go up only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

When to repot:

When roots grow out of the drainage holes
When the plant is rootbound (roots circling the pot)
When the soil breaks down and no longer drains well
Every 2 to 3 years, even if the plant seems fine

Repot in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Do not repot in fall or winter.

Repotting tips:

Gently loosen the roots
Trim off any black, mushy, or rotted roots with clean scissors
Use fresh, chunky soil
Water lightly after repotting and keep in high humidity for a few weeks while the roots recover

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Texture (bumps) fading or less pronounced

Cause: Not enough light. The bumpy texture depends on bright light. In low light, new leaves grow smoother with less prominent bumps.

Fix: Move the plant closer to a window (within 3 to 5 feet of an east, south, or west window). Or add a grow light. New leaves will have more pronounced bumps if the light is brighter. Existing leaves will not change, but new growth will be more textured.

Brown, crispy leaf edges

Cause: Low humidity (below 60 percent). This is the most common problem with Papillilaminum.

Fix: Use a humidifier running 12 to 24 hours per day. Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy.

Yellow leaves

Causes:

Overwatering (most common): Soil stays wet too long, roots start to rot
Root rot: Roots are black and mushy
Underwatering (less common): Soil dries out completely for too long
Natural aging: Older leaves at the base turn yellow and drop (normal if only 1 leaf at a time)

Fix:

If overwatering, let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the roots for rot. Repot in fresh, chunky soil if needed.
If underwatering, water more frequently. The top inch of soil should dry out, but do not let the entire pot dry completely.
If natural aging, no fix needed. One yellow leaf every few months is normal.

Root rot

Cause: Overwatering or soil that stays too wet. The roots turn black, mushy, and smell bad.

Fix:

Unpot the plant immediately
Rinse the roots gently under water
Trim off all black, mushy roots with clean scissors (sterilize with rubbing alcohol)
Repot in fresh, chunky, well-draining soil
Water less frequently going forward (wait until the top inch of soil is dry)
Increase light (brighter light = faster water uptake = less risk of rot)

If the rot has spread to the stems or most of the roots, the plant may not recover. You can try propagating healthy sections if any remain.

Leaves curling inward

Causes:

Low humidity (most common)
Underwatering (soil is too dry)
Pests (spider mites or thrips)

Fix:

If low humidity, increase humidity with a humidifier
If underwatering, water thoroughly and check soil moisture more frequently
If pests, inspect the undersides of leaves. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Slow growth or no new leaves

Causes:

Not enough light (too far from a window)
Low humidity (stunts growth)
Rootbound (roots have filled the pot)
Not enough nutrients (has not been fertilized in over a year)
Dormancy (slower growth in fall and winter is normal)

Fix:

If light is low, move closer to a window or add a grow light
If humidity is low, increase to 60 to 80 percent
If rootbound, repot to a slightly larger pot
If underfed, start fertilizing every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
If it is fall or winter, be patient—growth will resume in spring

Spider mites

Cause: Low humidity (spider mites thrive in dry conditions, below 50 percent humidity).

Signs: Tiny speckles on leaves, dull appearance, fine webbing on undersides of leaves or between stems.

Fix:

Isolate the plant immediately
Rinse the plant under a gentle stream of water (or in the shower)
Wipe leaves (top and bottom) with a damp cloth
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 2 to 3 weeks
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent (spider mites hate high humidity)

Prevention: High humidity (60 percent or higher) is the best defense against spider mites.

Propagating Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillilaminum can be propagated by division (separating the plant into smaller clumps). It cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings or stem cuttings like pothos or philodendron—you need roots attached.

When to propagate:

Spring or early summer (when the plant is actively growing)
When the plant has multiple growth points (stems with leaves growing from different spots in the pot)
During repotting (easiest time to divide)

Success rate: 70 to 80 percent if you have roots attached and provide high humidity during recovery.

How to propagate by division:

Unpot the plant carefully
Gently shake off excess soil to see the roots and stems
Look for natural divisions (clumps with their own roots and at least 2 to 3 leaves)
Gently pull or cut the clumps apart with clean scissors or a knife (make sure each clump has roots attached)
Plant each clump in fresh, chunky aroid soil
Water lightly
Keep in high humidity (70 to 80 percent) for 2 to 4 weeks while the roots recover
Avoid fertilizing for 4 to 6 weeks (the roots are fragile and can burn)

Aftercare:

Keep the newly divided plants in bright, indirect light
Maintain high humidity with a humidifier
Water when the top inch of soil is dry
Be patient—new growth may slow for 4 to 8 weeks while the plant recovers

Can you propagate from a single leaf? No. Anthurium leaves do not root on their own like pothos or philodendron cuttings. You need a stem with roots attached for successful propagation.

Why Papillilaminum Is Unique

The bumpy texture (papillae) makes Papillilaminum one of the most tactile and unusual anthuriums in cultivation. Most anthuriums have smooth, leathery leaves. Papillilaminum stands out because of the raised bumps that cover the entire leaf surface.

What the texture feels like:

When you run your fingers over the leaves, you can feel the tiny raised bumps
It is like touching textured leather, snakeskin, or crocodile skin
The bumps are more pronounced on mature leaves (young leaves are smoother)
The texture becomes more prominent in bright light

Comparison to other anthuriums:

Anthurium Forgetii: Round, paddle-shaped leaves (smooth texture, no bumps), white veins
Anthurium Papillilaminum: Round, paddle-shaped leaves (bumpy texture), pale veins
Anthurium Crystallinum: Heart-shaped leaves (smooth, velvety texture), white veins

Papillilaminum is a conversation starter. Everyone wants to touch the leaves when they see them. The bumpy texture is unusual and beautiful, and the plant only gets more impressive as it matures and produces larger, more textured leaves.

Toxicity

Anthurium Papillilaminum is toxic to pets and humans. Keep out of reach.

What To Do Next

If your Papillilaminum is thriving (bumpy texture prominent, no brown edges):

Try Anthurium Forgetii (similar round leaves, smooth texture, easier to find)
Or try Anthurium Crystallinum (heart-shaped leaves with white veins, similar care, more common)
Or try Anthurium Clarinervium (heart-shaped leaves with thick white veins, slightly easier)

If your Papillilaminum has brown edges:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier
The damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be healthy
Check the hygrometer to confirm humidity levels

If Papillilaminum is too fussy for you:

Try Anthurium Andraeanum (flowering anthurium, much easier, tolerates lower humidity)
Or try Philodendron Gloriosum (similar velvety texture and white veins, slightly more forgiving)
Or try Alocasia Frydek (velvety leaves with white veins, also needs high humidity but grows faster)

If you love rare, textured anthuriums and want more:

Anthurium Forgetii (similar round leaves, smooth instead of bumpy)
Anthurium Luxurians (long, textured leaves with bumpy surface)
Anthurium Faustomirandae (huge, velvety leaves, also rare and expensive)

If you are struggling:

Check humidity first (this is the most common issue)
Then check watering (overwatering causes root rot, underwatering causes crispy edges)
Then check light (low light reduces texture development)

Papillilaminum is worth the effort if you love unusual, textured foliage and are willing to commit to high humidity and chunky soil. But it is not a beginner plant. If you can keep it happy, the bumpy, paddle-shaped leaves are absolutely stunning and unlike anything else in your collection. The texture alone makes it worth growing.