Anthurium Luxurians Care: The Darkest Anthurium

Anthurium Luxurians is the darkest foliage anthurium in cultivation—and possibly one of the darkest houseplants, period. The leaves are large (12 to 24+ inches long at maturity), deeply grooved with dramatic sunken veins, and covered in an intensely soft velvet texture. The color is dark emerald-green to almost jet-black depending on light conditions, and the veins are subtle—they don’t contrast brightly like Crystallinum or Clarinervium, but instead blend into the dark background, creating a moody, shadowy effect. The overall look is gothic, luxurious, and dramatic—like a plant designed for a high-end boutique hotel or a collector’s showcase.

What makes Luxurians so special:

The darkest foliage anthurium: In low to moderate light, the leaves are so dark they appear nearly black. In bright light, they’re deep emerald-green with blackish undertones. No other anthurium matches this level of darkness.
Deeply grooved texture: The veins are deeply sunken into the leaf surface, creating a quilted or ribbed texture. The grooves are much more pronounced than Crystallinum or Magnificum, giving the leaves a three-dimensional, sculptural quality.
Intensely soft velvet: The velvet texture is as soft and plush as Crystallinum, but the darkness adds an extra layer of luxury. Running your fingers over the leaf feels like touching fine suede.
Large, impressive size: Mature Luxurians leaves can reach 18 to 24+ inches long and 12 to 16 inches wide. These are statement-piece leaves that dominate a space.

Why Luxurians is advanced and challenging:

Very high humidity required: 70 to 90 percent humidity is essential—similar to Crystallinum and other large-leaved velvet anthuriums. Below 70 percent, edges brown, new leaves struggle to unfurl, and spider mites appear.
Extremely slow-growing: Luxurians is one of the slowest-growing anthuriums. Even in ideal conditions (bright indirect light, 80%+ humidity, perfect care), it may produce only 1 to 2 new leaves per year. Most anthuriums produce 3 to 6+ leaves per year. This slow growth makes Luxurians frustrating for impatient collectors and keeps prices high.
Sensitive to overwatering: Like all anthuriums, Luxurians is prone to root rot if soil stays too wet. Needs very chunky, well-draining soil.
New leaves are easily damaged: With such slow growth, every new leaf is precious. If humidity drops below 70 percent during unfurling, the new leaf can get stuck and emerge torn or crinkled. You then have to wait months for the next leaf.
Collector’s plant: Luxurians is rare, expensive ($100 to $400+ depending on size), and requires advanced care. This is not a plant for beginners—it’s for serious collectors who have successfully grown other high-humidity anthuriums.

Luxurians vs. other dark velvet anthuriums:

Luxurians: Nearly black with deeply grooved veins, extremely slow-growing, darkest foliage, $100 to $400.
Regale: Deep burgundy-black with deep grooves, slightly faster-growing than Luxurians (but still slow), easier to find, $80 to $300.
Papillilaminum: Dark green with prominent raised bumps (papillae) along veins, unique texture, moderate growth, $60 to $150.
Magnificum: Dark green with dramatic white veins and deep grooves, faster-growing, more available, $50 to $150.
Crystallinum: Dark green with bright crystal-white veins (high contrast), velvety, faster-growing, easier, $30 to $100.

Luxurians stands out for having the darkest coloration and the most subtle, shadowy vein pattern. If you want high-contrast bright veins, choose Crystallinum or Magnificum. If you want moody, gothic darkness, Luxurians is unmatched.

If you’re an experienced collector willing to invest in controlled humidity and accept glacial growth, Luxurians is a dramatic, luxurious addition to your collection. Let’s talk about how to grow it successfully.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light (no direct sun)
Water: When top inch of soil is dry
Humidity: 70 to 90 percent (very high)
Growth habit: Clumping, upright (large grooved leaves)
Biggest challenge: Very high humidity, slow-growing, and advanced

Light

Anthurium Luxurians needs bright, indirect light to maintain its dark coloration, deeply grooved texture, and large leaf size. The right light balance is critical—too little light and the leaves stay small with less-pronounced grooves, too much direct sun and the dark color fades to pale green and edges burn.

Best light:

East-facing window: Gentle morning sun (a little direct morning sun is usually fine for Luxurians and may even enhance the dark color) followed by bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal.
Bright, indirect light for most of the day: South or west-facing windows are okay if the plant is placed 3 to 6 feet back so it gets bright ambient light without harsh afternoon sun.
Greenhouse cabinet with grow lights: Many collectors grow Luxurians in a greenhouse cabinet with full-spectrum LED grow lights (12 to 18 inches above the plant for 12 to 14 hours per day). This provides consistent bright light and makes humidity control easier.

Why bright indirect light matters for Luxurians:

Maintains the dark coloration: In adequate bright indirect light, the leaves develop their signature dark emerald-green to nearly black color. In low light, the color becomes lighter, more standard green, and the dramatic darkness is lost.
Develops deeper grooves: The sunken veins and quilted texture are most pronounced in bright light. In low light, the grooves become shallower and less impressive.
Produces larger leaves: In bright light, mature Luxurians leaves can reach 18 to 24+ inches long. In low light, leaves may stay 8 to 12 inches—still nice, but less dramatic.
Faster growth (relatively): Luxurians is glacially slow even in perfect conditions, but in bright light, you might see a new leaf every 4 to 6 months during the growing season. In low light, growth can slow to one leaf per year or slower.

What happens in low light:

Lighter green color: The signature near-black coloration fades to medium or light green. This is the most obvious loss—Luxurians without its darkness is far less special.
Shallower grooves: The deeply sunken veins become less pronounced. The leaf texture flattens and loses its three-dimensional sculptural quality.
Smaller leaves: Leaves stay 8 to 12 inches instead of reaching 18 to 24 inches.
Even slower growth: Already the slowest-growing anthurium, Luxurians in low light may produce only one leaf per year (or less).
Leggy growth: Internodes (spaces between leaves on the stem) become longer and stretched, giving the plant a sparse, unattractive appearance.

Can you use grow lights? Yes, and many serious collectors grow Luxurians exclusively under grow lights in a greenhouse cabinet. Full-spectrum LED grow lights placed 12 to 18 inches above the plant for 12 to 14 hours per day provide consistent, ideal light. Grow lights work especially well for controlling both light and humidity in an enclosed environment.

Signs of too much light (direct afternoon sun):

Faded, bleached, or pale leaves: The deep dark green/black becomes washed out, yellowish, or pale green. The dramatic darkness is lost.
Brown, scorched edges or patches: Direct hot sun burns the leaves, even though they’re thick and velvety. Afternoon sun is too intense.
Leaves lose their glossy, velvety sheen: Sunburned leaves look dull, dry, and damaged.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light (or grow lights) is essential for maintaining the dark color and deeply grooved texture. An east window is ideal. If your Luxurians is light green instead of dark, or grooves are shallow, the first fix is more light.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Anthurium Luxurians is very sensitive to overwatering—root rot is one of the most common causes of death for large-leaved velvet anthuriums. The combination of slow growth and large velvet leaves means Luxurians uses water more slowly than faster-growing anthuriums, so soil takes longer to dry out. Always err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp or moist, wait another day or two.
Water thoroughly until water runs freely out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture and flushes out any accumulated salts from fertilizer.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this causes root rot within days to weeks.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 5 to 7 days, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and soil mix. In bright, warm conditions with good airflow, you might water every 5 to 6 days. In cooler or shadier conditions, every 7 to 10 days.
Fall and winter (slower growth or dormancy): Reduce watering significantly. Water every 10 to 14+ days, or when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Luxurians grows even more slowly (or stops entirely) in fall/winter, so it uses much less water. Overwatering during dormancy is extremely common and deadly.

Why anthuriums are sensitive to overwatering:

Anthuriums (including Luxurians) are epiphytes in nature—they grow on trees with their roots exposed to air, not buried in soil. Their roots are adapted to getting frequent moisture from rain but drying out quickly with excellent aeration. When planted in soil (even chunky soil), if the soil stays waterlogged, the roots suffocate and rot. This is especially true for slow-growing, large-leaved anthuriums like Luxurians—they transpire (lose water) more slowly than fast-growing varieties, so soil stays wet longer. Always use very well-draining, chunky soil (see Soil section) and let the top inch dry before watering.

Water quality: Anthuriums are somewhat sensitive to tap water. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, fluoridated, or hard (high in minerals), consider using filtered, distilled, or rainwater. This reduces the risk of brown edges from mineral/chemical buildup and prevents salt accumulation in the soil. If your tap water is relatively soft and chemical-free, it’s usually fine—but let it sit out for 24 hours before use to allow chlorine to evaporate.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (usually starting at the bottom and progressing upward)
Soft, mushy stems at the base of the plant
Soil stays wet for 10+ days after watering
Soil smells sour, rotten, or musty
Roots are black and mushy instead of white/tan and firm (visible if you unpot the plant)

If you’re overwatering, the roots rot and the plant declines quickly. The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings, improve drainage by adding more perlite and orchid bark to the soil, make sure the pot has drainage holes, and consider repotting if root rot has set in. If roots are black and mushy, trim them away with clean scissors and repot in fresh, very chunky soil. If the stem is soft and mushy, the plant may be beyond saving.

Signs of underwatering (less common):

Drooping, limp leaves that feel soft
Leaves curling inward
Dry, crispy brown edges (though this is more commonly caused by low humidity)
Soil is bone dry several inches down

If you’re underwatering, the fix is simple: Water more frequently and make sure you’re watering thoroughly (not just a splash on top).

How to tell the difference between brown edges from low humidity vs. underwatering:

Low humidity damage: Brown, crispy edges on otherwise upright, healthy-looking leaves. The plant isn’t drooping or curling. Soil moisture is adequate. This is the most common cause of brown edges on Luxurians.
Underwatering damage: Brown, crispy edges plus drooping, curling, or soft leaves. The soil is very dry. The whole plant looks thirsty and wilted.

For Luxurians, brown edges are almost always caused by low humidity (below 70 percent), not underwatering.

Bottom line: Water when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season, always let excess water drain completely, and reduce watering dramatically in fall/winter. When in doubt, wait another day. Luxurians handles slight underwatering far better than overwatering.

Humidity

Very high humidity is absolutely essential for Anthurium Luxurians. This is the single most important factor in growing Luxurians successfully. 70 to 90 percent humidity is required—the same as Crystallinum and other large-leaved velvet anthuriums. If you can’t provide this level of humidity consistently, Luxurians will struggle, produce damaged leaves, and may decline or die. Most collectors grow Luxurians in a greenhouse cabinet to maintain the necessary humidity.

Ideal humidity: 70 to 90 percent year-round.

What different humidity levels mean for Luxurians:

80 to 90 percent (optimal, native rainforest conditions): The plant thrives. Leaves unfurl perfectly with no damage, edges stay pristine without browning, the deep grooves develop fully, and the velvet texture is flawless. New leaves emerge smoothly over 1 to 3 weeks. This is the humidity level in Luxurians’ native Colombian rainforest habitat.
70 to 80 percent (good, minimum for long-term success): The plant does well with minimal issues. You might see occasional very minor browning on older leaf tips, but overall the plant looks healthy, dramatic, and produces impressive large leaves. This is the absolute minimum you should aim for.
60 to 70 percent (tolerable very short-term, but problematic): You’ll see brown, crispy edges on most leaves. New leaves often struggle to unfurl—they get stuck in the cataphyll (protective sheath) and emerge torn, crinkled, or damaged. The plant is stressed. This is not sustainable long-term.
Below 60 percent (severe stress, likely failure): Brown, crispy edges on all leaves. New leaves fail to unfurl properly or emerge severely damaged. Spider mites appear almost immediately (they thrive in dry air and love stressed anthuriums). The plant may decline rapidly. Most homes sit at 30 to 50 percent humidity without intervention—far too dry for Luxurians. You will not succeed at this humidity level.

Why large-leaved velvet anthuriums need very high humidity:

Luxurians has massive leaves (18 to 24+ inches long at maturity) with huge surface area. Large leaves lose water through transpiration much faster than small-leaved plants. The leaf edges and the tips of the grooves (farthest from the veins) dry out faster than the roots can replace moisture when humidity is low. Additionally, the velvet texture holds moisture on the leaf surface, but when air is dry, that moisture evaporates quickly, damaging the delicate velvet. Finally, Luxurians is slow-growing—when a new leaf emerges (which happens only 1 to 2 times per year), it’s critical that it unfurls perfectly. In low humidity, new leaves get stuck and emerge damaged, and you may have to wait 6+ months for the next leaf. This makes Luxurians (and other large-leaved velvet anthuriums) far less forgiving than faster-growing anthuriums like Polly or Scherzerianum.

How to provide 70 to 90 percent humidity (realistically, you need a greenhouse cabinet):

1. Greenhouse cabinet (the only truly reliable option for most people):

A greenhouse cabinet is a glass or acrylic cabinet with shelves, LED grow lights, and controlled humidity. You place your high-humidity plants inside, close the doors, and the humidity stays consistently high (70 to 95 percent) because the air is enclosed.
Why it’s essential for Luxurians: A greenhouse cabinet is the only practical way for most people to maintain 70 to 90 percent humidity year-round. It creates a controlled microclimate where you can grow Luxurians and other ultra-picky anthuriums (Crystallinum, Magnificum, Warocqueanum) successfully.
Cost: $100 to $500+ depending on size and quality. IKEA Milsbo ($100 to $150) and Detolf ($70 to $100) cabinets are popular budget options. Add grow lights ($30 to $100), a small humidifier inside ($20 to $40), and a fan for airflow ($10 to $20).
Is it worth it? If you’re spending $100 to $400 on a Luxurians (or other rare velvet anthuriums), investing $200 to $300 in a greenhouse cabinet setup makes sense. It’s the only way to virtually guarantee success.

2. Humidifier in a small, enclosed room (less reliable but possible):

If you dedicate a small room (bathroom, closet, or small bedroom) with a powerful humidifier running 24/7 and group your high-humidity plants together, you might be able to reach 70 to 80 percent humidity in the immediate area around the plants.
Challenges: Hard to maintain consistency. Opening doors or windows drops humidity immediately. Requires constant monitoring with a hygrometer. Works best in naturally humid climates or during humid summer months.

3. Large terrarium or grow tent (alternative):

A large terrarium (24+ inches) or indoor grow tent with humidity control can work for smaller Luxurians plants.
Pros: Enclosed environment maintains high humidity.
Cons: Limited space as the plant grows. More setup required (lights, fans, humidity system).

Why standard humidifiers alone don’t work for Luxurians:

A standard humidifier placed near the plant in an open room will raise humidity by 10 to 20 percent at most (e.g., from 40 percent to 50 to 60 percent). This is helpful for plants that need 50 to 70 percent humidity (like calatheas or easier anthuriums), but it’s not enough for Luxurians. To reach 70 to 90 percent, you need an enclosed or semi-enclosed environment where humidity can accumulate without dissipating into the dry air of the rest of your home.

Why pebble trays and misting don’t work:

Pebble trays: The water surface area is too small to meaningfully raise humidity. At best, a pebble tray raises humidity by 1 to 2 percent immediately around the plant—not enough to make any difference. Pebble trays also breed fungus gnats.
Misting: Misting raises humidity for 5 to 10 minutes, then it drops back down. You’d have to mist every 10 minutes, 24/7, to maintain 70 percent—which is impossible. Additionally, misting can damage the velvet texture by leaving water spots and encouraging fungal issues on the leaves.

Signs of low humidity (and the damage it causes):

Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips: The most obvious and common sign. The delicate leaf edges and the points of the grooves dry out first and turn brown. Once this happens, the damage is permanent. You can trim off brown edges for aesthetics, but you need to fix humidity to prevent future damage.
New leaves stuck in the cataphyll (protective sheath): This is extremely common with Luxurians in low humidity. New leaves emerge from a sheath, and in adequate humidity (70%+), they unfurl smoothly over 1 to 3 weeks. In low humidity, the leaf dries out and sticks to the sheath. When it finally breaks free (or you gently help it), it’s often torn, crinkled, or permanently damaged. This is heartbreaking when you’ve waited 6+ months for a new leaf.
Leaves curling inward: The plant is trying to reduce surface area exposed to dry air to minimize water loss. Stress response.
Spider mites: These tiny pests love stressed anthuriums in dry air. They appear almost instantly when humidity drops below 60 percent. You’ll see fine webbing, stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves, and tiny moving dots (the mites). Spider mite infestations on slow-growing anthuriums like Luxurians are devastating because the plant takes months to recover.

Bottom line: If you want to grow Luxurians successfully, you need a greenhouse cabinet or another controlled high-humidity environment. This is non-negotiable. Don’t attempt to grow Luxurians in normal household humidity (40 to 60 percent)—it will not work.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, chunky soil. Anthuriums need more aeration than most houseplants.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Common Problems

Dark color fading to light green or pale (losing the dramatic near-black color)

This is the most visually obvious problem—Luxurians without its dark color loses much of what makes it special.

Cause: Not enough light (most common)

In low light, the leaves become lighter green, medium green, or even pale yellowish-green instead of the signature dark emerald-green to near-black. The dramatic darkness is lost.
The fix: Move to much brighter indirect light. An east window with gentle morning sun is ideal, or place 3 to 6 feet from a south/west window for bright ambient light. Use grow lights if natural light is insufficient (12 to 18 inches above plant, 12 to 14 hours per day). New leaves will develop darker coloration in brighter light (though given Luxurians’ slow growth, it may take 4 to 6+ months to see a new leaf). Existing leaves won’t darken—they’ll stay the color they developed in.

Cause 2: Too much direct sun (less common)

Direct afternoon sun can bleach the leaves, causing the dark color to fade to pale green or yellowish.
The fix: Move away from direct sun. Bright indirect light only.

Brown, crispy leaf edges (extremely common)

Brown edges on Luxurians’ large velvet leaves are extremely common and almost always caused by low humidity.

Cause: Low humidity (below 70 percent) — most common

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges along the leaf margins and especially at the tips of the grooves (the raised points between sunken veins). The browning is usually uniform and affects multiple leaves.
Why it happens: The large leaves with huge surface area lose moisture faster than the roots can replace when humidity is low. The edges (farthest from the veins) dry out first and die. The velvet texture makes this worse—dry air pulls moisture from the delicate velvet surface.
The fix: Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent with a greenhouse cabinet or similar controlled environment. New leaves will emerge without browning if humidity is consistently high. You can trim off brown edges on existing leaves with clean scissors for aesthetics, but the damage is permanent. Once brown, the tissue is dead and won’t recover.

Cause 2: Underwatering (less common)

What it looks like: Brown edges plus drooping, curling, or soft leaves. The soil is very dry.
The fix: Water more frequently and make sure you’re watering thoroughly (not just a light splash).

Cause 3: Tap water sensitivity (mineral/chemical buildup)

What it looks like: Brown edges/tips plus soil has white crusty buildup on the surface (salt/mineral deposits).
Why it happens: Tap water high in chlorine, fluoride, or minerals can cause edge browning over time as chemicals accumulate in the leaf tissue.
The fix: Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Flush the soil thoroughly with clean water to wash out accumulated salts.

For Luxurians, brown edges are 90% humidity-related, 5% underwatering, and 5% water quality. Fix humidity first.

Yellow leaves

One yellow leaf occasionally is normal aging, but multiple yellow leaves or rapid yellowing indicates a problem.

Cause 1: Overwatering or root rot (most common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves (usually starting at the bottom and progressing upward), plus soil stays wet for 10+ days, base of plant feels soft or mushy, soil smells sour or rotten.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes the roots to rot. Once the roots rot, they can’t absorb water or nutrients, and the leaves yellow and die.
The fix: Unpot the plant and inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white/tan and firm. Rotted roots are black and mushy. If roots are rotted, trim them away with clean scissors and repot in fresh, very chunky soil (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss). If the stem is soft and mushy, the plant may be beyond saving. Going forward, let soil dry out more between waterings and improve drainage.

Cause 2: Natural aging

What it looks like: One yellow leaf at a time, usually the oldest (lowest) leaf. The rest of the plant looks healthy.
What to do: Cut off the yellow leaf at the base with clean scissors. This is normal. Even slow-growing anthuriums shed old leaves occasionally.

Cause 3: Not enough light (less common)

What it looks like: Yellow leaves plus smaller new leaves, lighter green color overall, slower growth.
The fix: Move to brighter indirect light.

Root rot (most serious problem)

Root rot is the most common cause of death for rare velvet anthuriums like Luxurians.

Signs:

Yellow leaves progressing rapidly upward
Soft, mushy stems at the base of the plant
Soil smells sour, rotten, or musty
Soil stays wet for 10+ days after watering
Roots are black and mushy instead of white/tan and firm (visible if you unpot)

Treatment:

Unpot the plant immediately and shake off soil to inspect roots.
Trim away all black, mushy roots with clean, sharp scissors. Cut back to firm, healthy tissue. If roots are entirely rotted, the plant is likely dead.
Check the stem. If it’s firm, there’s hope. If it’s soft and mushy, the plant is beyond saving.
Repot in fresh, very chunky soil (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss). Use a pot that’s appropriately sized (not too large).
Water very lightly after repotting—just enough to settle the soil. Don’t saturate.
Keep humidity very high (70 to 80 percent) to reduce stress while the plant recovers.
Don’t fertilize for 6 to 8 weeks. Let the plant focus on root recovery.
Water less going forward. Let the top inch of soil dry before watering, and make sure the pot has drainage holes and excess water drains completely.

Prevention: Use very chunky, well-draining soil, let the top inch dry between waterings, empty saucers immediately, and make sure pots have drainage holes.

New leaves not unfurling (stuck in the cataphyll sheath)

This is heartbreaking with Luxurians because of its extremely slow growth—you wait 6+ months for a new leaf, and it gets stuck and emerges damaged.

Cause: Very low humidity (below 70 percent)

When humidity is below 70 percent, the emerging leaf dries out and sticks to the inside of the cataphyll (the protective sheath). The leaf can’t slide out smoothly. When it finally breaks free (or you gently help it), it’s often torn, crinkled, or missing chunks.
The fix: Increase humidity to 80 to 90 percent immediately (even higher than the usual 70 percent minimum). Place the plant in a greenhouse cabinet, terrarium, or cover it with a clear plastic bag to create a humid microclimate around the unfurling leaf. If humidity is consistently very high, the leaf should unfurl over 1 to 3 weeks. Future new leaves will unfurl properly if humidity is maintained (though it may take 6+ months for the next leaf).
Can you help stuck leaves? Some growers gently peel back the cataphyll with clean fingers or tweezers to help the leaf emerge, but this is risky—you can easily tear or damage the leaf. Only attempt this if the leaf has been stuck for 2+ weeks and humidity is now very high (80%+). Be extremely gentle. If in doubt, wait and let the plant unfurl naturally.

Once a leaf emerges damaged, you can’t fix it. Focus on preventing future damage by maintaining very high humidity (80 to 90 percent) during all future leaf unfurling periods.

Extremely slow growth (or no new leaves for months)

This is normal for Luxurians, but it’s still frustrating.

Reality check: Anthurium Luxurians is one of the slowest-growing anthuriums. Even in absolutely ideal conditions (bright indirect light, 80%+ humidity, perfect watering, regular fertilizing), Luxurians may produce only 1 to 2 new leaves per year. Some plants produce only one leaf per year. This is not a problem—it’s the nature of the plant. Luxurians puts enormous energy into producing large, dramatic, deeply grooved leaves, and this takes time.

When slow growth IS a problem (and how to fix it):

Not enough light: Move to brighter indirect light or add grow lights.
Low humidity (below 70 percent): Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent. Stressed plants grow even more slowly.
Not enough nutrients: Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks during spring/summer with diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength). Don’t over-fertilize—more is not better.
Root-bound: If the plant has been in the same pot for 2+ years and roots are tightly circling the pot, consider repotting in spring to a pot 1 to 2 inches larger.
Stress or pests: Spider mites, root rot, or environmental stress (temperature swings, low humidity) slow growth. Fix the underlying issue.

If care is ideal and the plant is healthy but still slow: Be patient. This is normal for Luxurians. Some collectors find the slow growth meditative and appreciate each new leaf as a special event. Others find it frustrating and prefer faster-growing anthuriums. Know what you’re signing up for before buying Luxurians.

Spider mites (common in low humidity)

Spider mites are tiny pests that love stressed anthuriums in dry air.

Signs:

Fine webbing on stems, leaf undersides, and between leaves
Tiny moving dots (the mites, visible with a magnifying glass) on undersides of leaves
Stippling (tiny yellow or white dots) on leaves where mites have fed
Leaves look dull, dusty, or faded

Treatment:

Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent immediately. Spider mites thrive in dry air and hate high humidity. This is the most important preventive and treatment measure.
Spray the plant with water to knock off mites. Take it to the sink or shower and spray thoroughly, especially undersides of leaves. Wipe leaves gently with a damp cloth.
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Spray the entire plant (especially undersides) according to product instructions. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks to kill newly hatched mites (eggs are resistant to treatment).
Isolate the plant until the infestation is controlled so mites don’t spread to other plants.

Prevention: Keep humidity at 70 to 90 percent consistently. Spider mites rarely infest plants in high-humidity environments like greenhouse cabinets.

Propagating Anthurium Luxurians

Luxurians is propagated by division (separating clumps of stems with roots). However, because Luxurians is extremely slow-growing, it takes many years (often 5+ years) for a plant to develop multiple stems large enough to divide. Propagation is not quick or easy.

When to propagate:

Spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing and temperatures are warm (70 to 80°F).
Only when the plant has multiple stems with their own root systems. A single-stem plant can’t be divided.

How to propagate by division:

Unpot the plant carefully during repotting. Shake off excess soil so you can see the root structure.
Look for natural divisions—separate stems or clumps with their own roots. Don’t try to divide stems that share a single root system.
Gently separate the clumps with your hands. If roots are tightly tangled, use a clean, sharp knife to cut between clumps. Each division should have 2 to 3 stems and a healthy root system.
Pot each division in a small pot (6-inch pot for 2 to 3 stems) with fresh, very chunky soil (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss).
Water lightly to settle the soil—don’t saturate. The roots are vulnerable and prone to rot immediately after division.
Keep humidity very high (80 to 90 percent) for 4 to 8 weeks while the divisions recover and establish. Place in a greenhouse cabinet or cover with a clear plastic bag.
Don’t fertilize for 6 to 8 weeks. Let the divisions focus on root recovery and establishment.
Be patient. It may take 2 to 4 months for new growth to appear. Given Luxurians’ slow growth, this is normal.

Success rate: 70 to 80 percent if you’re careful, divisions have strong root systems, and humidity is kept very high during recovery.

Why propagating Luxurians is challenging:

Slow to produce multiple stems: Most Luxurians plants stay single-stemmed for the first 3 to 5+ years. Even mature plants may have only 2 to 3 stems, making division risky (you could lose the whole plant if something goes wrong).
Divisions take months to recover: Due to slow growth, divisions may take 4 to 6+ months to produce a new leaf. You have to be patient and trust the process.
High humidity is essential during recovery: Divisions are stressed and vulnerable. If humidity drops below 70 percent during recovery, they may decline or die.

Why Luxurians Is So Dramatic (The Appeal of Dark Foliage)

Anthurium Luxurians is one of the most visually striking anthuriums (and houseplants) because of its near-black coloration and deeply grooved, quilted texture. Here’s why collectors are drawn to it:

1. The darkest foliage anthurium: In low to moderate light, Luxurians leaves are so dark they appear almost jet-black. In bright light, they’re deep emerald-green with blackish undertones. No other anthurium matches this darkness. This creates a gothic, moody, luxurious aesthetic that’s perfect for modern, minimalist, or dramatic interiors.

2. Deeply sunken veins and sculptural texture: The veins are deeply grooved into the leaf surface, creating a quilted or ribbed three-dimensional texture. The leaves look hand-sculpted. This texture is more pronounced than Crystallinum or Magnificum, making Luxurians feel like a living piece of art.

3. Soft velvet texture: The leaves are covered in an intensely soft velvet that feels like fine suede. The combination of near-black color and velvet texture creates a sense of luxury and rarity.

4. Large, impressive size: Mature Luxurians leaves reach 18 to 24+ inches long—these are statement-piece leaves that dominate a space and demand attention.

5. Rarity and exclusivity: Luxurians is rare, expensive, slow-growing, and challenging—only serious collectors with controlled environments can grow it successfully. Owning and thriving with Luxurians is a status symbol in the plant collecting community.

The dark foliage trend: Dark-leaved plants (Luxurians, Regale, Black Velvet Alocasia, ZZ Raven, Burgundy Rubber Plant) have become extremely popular in interior design for their dramatic, sophisticated look. Luxurians is one of the darkest and most luxurious options.

Toxicity

Anthurium Luxurians is toxic to pets and humans if ingested. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause intense burning and irritation of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract. Symptoms include drooling, vomiting, difficulty swallowing, and oral pain. Keep out of reach of children and pets. Wash hands after handling. If ingested, seek medical attention or call a poison control center.

What To Do Next

If you love Luxurians and want similar dark, dramatic anthuriums:

Try Anthurium Regale for deep burgundy-black leaves with deeply grooved veins, slightly faster-growing and slightly easier to find than Luxurians (but still slow and challenging), $80 to $300.
Try Anthurium Papillilaminum for dark green leaves with unique raised bumps (papillae) along the veins, medium-sized, easier than Luxurians (tolerates 60 to 70% humidity), $60 to $150.
Try Anthurium Magnificum for dark green leaves with bright white veins and deep grooves (more contrast than Luxurians), faster-growing and more available, $50 to $150.

If Luxurians is too slow-growing or too challenging:

Try Anthurium Clarinervium for dark green heart-shaped leaves with bright white veins and soft velvet texture, much easier (tolerates 60 to 70% humidity), faster-growing (3 to 5 leaves/year), more forgiving, $30 to $100.
Try Anthurium Crystallinum for massive velvet leaves (18 to 24 inches) with bright crystal-white veins, faster-growing than Luxurians (2 to 4 leaves/year), more available, $30 to $100.
Try Anthurium Forgetii for smaller (6 to 10 inches) dark green leaves with silver-white veins, easier and faster-growing, compact, $30 to $80.

If you want dark foliage plants that are easier than Luxurians:

Try Alocasia Black Velvet for small (4 to 6 inches) nearly black leaves with silver veining, compact, easier (tolerates 50 to 60% humidity), $20 to $50.
Try ZZ Raven for glossy near-black foliage, extremely easy and low-maintenance (tolerates low light and infrequent watering), perfect beginner dark plant, $20 to $40.
Try Burgundy Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica ‘Burgundy’) for large, glossy burgundy-black leaves, easy and fast-growing, beginner-friendly, $15 to $40.

If your Luxurians has brown edges:

You need a greenhouse cabinet or controlled high-humidity environment. 70 to 90% humidity is non-negotiable for Luxurians.
Standard humidifiers in open rooms won’t provide enough humidity. You need an enclosed space (greenhouse cabinet, terrarium, or very humid dedicated room).
Consider investing in a greenhouse cabinet setup ($200 to $300 total for cabinet, lights, small humidifier, fan). This is the only reliable way to grow Luxurians successfully indoors for most people.

If your Luxurians is light green instead of dark:

Move to much brighter indirect light. An east window with morning sun is ideal, or add grow lights (12 to 18 inches above plant, 12 to 14 hours/day).
New leaves (which may take 4 to 6+ months to appear given Luxurians’ slow growth) will develop darker coloration in brighter light. Existing leaves won’t change.

If your Luxurians seems too slow:

Accept that this is normal. Luxurians produces 1 to 2 leaves per year even in perfect conditions. If you want faster results, choose a faster-growing anthurium (Clarinervium, Crystallinum, Forgetii, Pedatoradiatum).
If you still want Luxurians, focus on enjoying each new leaf as a special event. Some collectors find the slow growth meditative and appreciate the rarity and patience required.

If you’re considering buying Luxurians:

Do you have a greenhouse cabinet or terrarium? If not, can you invest in one ($200 to $300)? Without controlled 70 to 90% humidity, Luxurians will struggle.
Are you experienced with high-humidity anthuriums? If you’ve successfully grown Crystallinum, Magnificum, or similar, you might be ready. If not, start with Clarinervium or Forgetii first.
Can you accept glacially slow growth? Luxurians may produce only 1 to 2 leaves per year. If you need faster gratification, choose a different anthurium.
Is the price worth it to you? At $100 to $400+, Luxurians is a significant investment. Make sure you understand the care requirements, slow growth, and risks before buying.