Alocasia Maharani Care: The Grey Miniature Alocasia

Alocasia Maharani (also called Alocasia ‘Grey Dragon’) is a compact jewel alocasia with thick, grey-green leaves and prominent dark veins. The leaves have a unique pebbled or embossed texture—raised bumps that make the surface look almost quilted. The texture is tactile and fascinating, and the grey-green color is unlike most other alocasias (which tend to be darker green or silvery).

The leaves are relatively small (3 to 6 inches long) and stay compact. Maharani rarely exceeds 12 to 18 inches tall, making it perfect for small spaces, shelves, or collectors who want a miniature alocasia.

Maharani is part of the jewel alocasia group (which includes Black Velvet, Silver Dragon, and Red Secret). Jewel alocasias are prized for their compact size, unique textures, and striking leaf patterns. Maharani is similar to Silver Dragon (which has silvery leaves) and Black Velvet (which has dark velvety leaves), but with its own distinct grey-green coloration and pebbled texture.

Like all jewel alocasias, Maharani is not beginner-friendly. It needs high humidity (60 to 80 percent), consistent care, and often goes dormant in winter (leaves die back completely, leaving the corm in the soil). But if you can provide the right conditions, Maharani is a stunning and unique addition to a collection.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light
Water: When top inch of soil is dry
Humidity: 60 to 80 percent (high)
Growth habit: Compact, upright (stays small)
Biggest challenge: High humidity and winter dormancy

Light

Alocasia Maharani needs bright, indirect light to maintain its grey-green coloration and pronounced pebbled texture. Low light causes the grey to fade to darker green and the texture to become less prominent.

Best light:

East-facing window (bright morning sun, indirect light the rest of the day)
A few feet back from a south or west window (3 to 5 feet)
Or under a grow light (12 to 14 hours per day)

Why bright light matters:

Grey-green coloration is most vibrant in bright light (low light causes leaves to turn darker green)
Pebbled texture is more pronounced in bright light
Growth is faster in bright light (1 to 2 new leaves per month in spring and summer)

Signs of too little light:

Grey coloration fades to solid dark green
Pebbled texture becomes less pronounced (leaves look smoother)
Smaller new leaves (less than 3 inches long)
Slower growth (less than 1 new leaf per month during growing season)
Stems stretch and lean toward the light

If the grey is fading, move the plant closer to a window or add a grow light. The next new leaf will have better color if the light is brighter. Existing leaves will not regain their grey.

Signs of too much light:

Leaves fade to pale grey or yellow (washed out, bleached)
Brown, crispy, scorched edges or patches
Leaves lose their texture and look dull

Direct sun will scorch the leaves. If you see scorching, move the plant back from the window or add a sheer curtain to filter the light.

Bottom line: Bright indirect light is critical for grey coloration and texture. Maharani can survive in medium light, but it will not look its best.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry (stick your finger in to check). Alocasia Maharani likes consistent moisture—not soaking wet, not bone dry—but is very sensitive to overwatering. Root rot is the most common way to kill jewel alocasias.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil by sticking your finger in
If dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
Empty the saucer within 30 minutes (do not let the plant sit in water)
Wait until the top inch dries out again before watering

Typical schedule:

Growing season (spring and summer): Every 5 to 7 days
Dormant season (fall and winter): Every 2 to 4 weeks (or less if the plant is fully dormant with no leaves)

The schedule depends on your home conditions and whether the plant is actively growing. In spring and summer, you might water every 5 days. In fall and winter, the plant may slow down or go fully dormant, and watering should be reduced dramatically.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (especially older leaves)
Soft, mushy stems or petioles (the stems that hold the leaves)
Black or brown rot on the corm or roots
Foul smell from the soil
Soil stays wet for more than a week

If you see signs of overwatering, stop watering immediately. Let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the corm and roots for rot. If they are black and mushy, trim off the rot, let the corm dry for a few hours, and repot in fresh, dry soil.

Signs of underwatering:

Leaves droop or curl (the plant looks wilted)
Brown, crispy leaf edges (can also be low humidity, but check soil first)
Soil is bone dry and pulls away from the pot
Older leaves turn yellow and drop

If the plant is drooping, give it a thorough watering. The leaves should perk up within a few hours. If they do not, the roots may be damaged.

Bottom line: Maharani is more sensitive to overwatering than underwatering. When in doubt, wait an extra day or two before watering. Root rot kills jewel alocasias quickly.

Humidity

High humidity is absolutely non-negotiable for Alocasia Maharani. This plant needs 60 to 80 percent humidity to thrive. Average household humidity (30 to 50 percent) is not enough—Maharani will struggle, get brown edges, and attract spider mites.

Ideal humidity: 60 to 80 percent (minimum 60 percent).

How to measure humidity:

Use a hygrometer (cheap, $10 or less)
Place it near the plant to get an accurate reading

How to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier (essential):
- A cool mist humidifier running 24 hours per day is the only reliable way to maintain 60 to 80 percent humidity in most homes
- Place the humidifier near the plant (within a few feet)
- Refill daily
- Aim for 60 to 80 percent humidity
Place in a humid bathroom (if it has a window):
- Bathrooms naturally have higher humidity from showers
- Only works if the bathroom has bright indirect light
- This method alone may not hit 60 percent
Greenhouse cabinet (ideal for jewel alocasias):
- A glass cabinet with a humidifier inside creates a stable, high-humidity environment
- Perfect for small plants like Maharani
- Maintains 70 to 90 percent humidity consistently
- This is the best option if you grow multiple high-humidity plants
Grouping with other plants (minimal effect):
- Plants release moisture through transpiration, which raises humidity slightly
- This alone is not enough to hit 60 percent in a dry home

Signs of low humidity:

Brown, crispy leaf edges (this happens quickly, within days)
Leaf tips turn brown
Leaves curl up tightly (trying to reduce moisture loss)
Spider mites (they thrive in low humidity and are the number one pest problem for jewel alocasias)

If you see brown edges, increase the humidity immediately. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is higher.

Bottom line: If you cannot maintain 60 to 80 percent humidity, do not get Maharani. It will struggle and likely die. Jewel alocasias are high-maintenance plants that need very specific conditions. A humidifier running 24/7 or a greenhouse cabinet is essential.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, airy soil.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Small pot (Maharani stays compact)

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Winter Dormancy

Alocasia Maharani often goes dormant in winter, especially in homes where light and temperature drop in fall and winter. This is completely normal and part of the plant’s natural cycle. Do not panic—the plant is not dead.

What dormancy looks like:

Leaves turn yellow and die back, one by one
Eventually, only the corm (bulb-like structure) remains in the soil
The plant stops producing new growth

What to do during dormancy:

Stop fertilizing immediately
Reduce watering dramatically (water just enough to keep the corm from shriveling, about once every 3 to 4 weeks)
Keep the corm in the pot (do not unpot it or disturb it)
Keep the pot in a warm spot (above 60 F)
Reduce humidity slightly (the corm does not need high humidity when dormant)
Be patient (dormancy can last 2 to 4 months)

When growth resumes:

New growth appears in spring (usually March to May)
A new shoot will emerge from the corm
Resume regular watering and fertilizing
Increase humidity back to 60 to 80 percent

Can you prevent dormancy? Sometimes. Maharani is less likely to go dormant if you:

Maintain bright light year-round (use a grow light in winter)
Keep the temperature warm (above 70 F)
Maintain high humidity (60 to 80 percent)

But even with perfect care, some jewel alocasias still go dormant. It is part of their natural cycle, especially for plants grown from corms. If the plant goes dormant, do not stress—just reduce watering and wait for spring.

Common dormancy mistakes:

Continuing to water regularly (causes corm rot)
Unpotting the corm and storing it elsewhere (leave it in the pot undisturbed)
Assuming the plant is dead and throwing it away (wait until spring before giving up)

Common Problems

Grey coloration fading to dark green

Cause: Not enough light (the plant produces more chlorophyll in low light, which turns leaves darker green).

Fix: Move to a brighter spot (closer to a window or under a grow light). The next new leaf will have better grey coloration if the light is brighter. Existing leaves will not regain their grey.

Brown, crispy leaf edges

Cause: Low humidity (below 60 percent). This is the most common problem with jewel alocasias.

Fix: Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier. The damaged leaves will not recover, but new leaves will grow in healthy if the humidity is higher.

Yellow leaves

Causes:

Overwatering (most common): Soil stays wet too long, roots or corm start to rot
Dormancy: Plant is entering dormancy (leaves die back naturally)
Underwatering: Soil dries out completely for too long (rare)
Natural aging: Older leaves turn yellow and drop (normal if only 1 leaf at a time)

Fix:

If overwatering, let the soil dry out more between waterings. Check the corm and roots for rot. If they are black and mushy, trim off the rot and repot in fresh soil.
If dormancy, reduce watering and stop fertilizing. Wait for new growth in spring.
If underwatering, water more frequently. The top inch should dry out, but do not let the entire pot dry completely.
If natural aging, no fix needed. One yellow leaf every few months is normal.

Leaves drooping or curling

Causes:

Underwatering (most common): Soil is too dry
Low humidity: Leaves curl up tightly to reduce moisture loss
Overwatering: Roots are rotting and cannot absorb water

Fix:

If underwatering, water thoroughly. The leaves should perk up within a few hours.
If low humidity, increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier.
If overwatering, check the corm and roots. If they are black and mushy, trim off the rot and repot in fresh soil.

Spider mites

Cause: Low humidity (spider mites thrive in dry conditions, below 60 percent humidity). This is the number one pest problem for jewel alocasias.

Signs: Tiny speckles on leaves, dull appearance, fine webbing on undersides of leaves or between stems.

Fix:

Isolate the plant immediately
Rinse the plant under a gentle stream of water (or in the shower)
Wipe leaves (top and bottom) with a damp cloth
Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 2 to 3 weeks
Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent (spider mites hate high humidity)

Prevention: High humidity (60 to 80 percent) is the best defense against spider mites. Weekly leaf inspections also help catch infestations early.

Pebbled texture less pronounced

Cause: Not enough light (the texture is more prominent in bright light).

Fix: Move to brighter light. The next new leaf will have more pronounced texture if the light is brighter. Existing leaves will not change.

Propagating Alocasia Maharani

Maharani produces small offsets (baby plants) from the corm over time. Propagation is done by division, not by leaf cuttings (alocasias cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings).

How to propagate by division:

Wait until the plant has at least 2 to 3 offsets with their own roots (check during repotting in spring or summer)
Unpot the plant gently
Brush off excess soil to see the corm and offsets
Gently separate the offsets from the main corm (make sure each offset has roots attached)
Use clean scissors to cut the offset free if needed (cut cleanly, do not tear)
Plant each offset in a small pot (3 to 4 inches) with fresh, well-draining soil
Water lightly
Keep in high humidity (70 to 80 percent) for 2 to 4 weeks while the offsets establish
Keep in bright, indirect light
Do not fertilize for 4 to 6 weeks (let the roots establish first)

Best time to propagate: Spring or early summer (when the plant is actively growing).

Success rate: 70 to 80 percent if offsets have roots attached. Lower if offsets have no roots.

Tips for success:

Only separate offsets that have their own roots (offsets without roots are much less likely to survive)
High humidity (70 to 80 percent) is critical during the recovery period
Be patient—offsets may not produce new leaves for 4 to 8 weeks while roots establish
Do not overwater during recovery (offsets are very sensitive to rot)

Common propagation mistakes:

Separating offsets that have no roots (low survival rate)
Not providing high enough humidity during recovery (offsets dry out and die)
Overwatering offsets (causes rot)
Propagating in fall or winter (low success rate, plant may go dormant)

Toxicity

Alocasia Maharani is toxic to pets and humans. Keep out of reach.

What To Do Next

If your Maharani is thriving (grey coloration strong, minimal brown edges):

Try Alocasia Silver Dragon (similar size, silvery leaves, similar care)
Or try Alocasia Black Velvet (dark velvety leaves, similar care, slightly easier)
Or try Alocasia Red Secret (dark leaves with red undersides, similar care)

If your Maharani has brown edges:

Increase humidity to 60 to 80 percent with a humidifier (this is essential, not optional)
Check the hygrometer to confirm humidity levels
The damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be healthy

If Maharani is too fussy:

Try Alocasia Polly (Amazonica, larger leaves, similar care but more forgiving)
Or try Alocasia Frydek (velvety leaves with white veins, larger, slightly easier)
Or try Alocasia Regal Shield (massive leaves, tolerates lower humidity, much more forgiving)

If your Maharani goes dormant:

Reduce watering to once every 3 to 4 weeks (just enough to keep the corm from shriveling)
Stop fertilizing
Keep the corm in the pot undisturbed
Wait for new growth in spring (usually March to May)

If you are struggling:

Check humidity first (this is the most common problem—Maharani needs 60 to 80 percent)
Then check watering (overwatering causes root rot, which kills jewel alocasias quickly)
Then check light (grey fading or small leaves mean not enough light)

Alocasia Maharani is worth growing if you love unique, compact plants and can provide very high humidity. It is not a beginner plant—it needs 60 to 80 percent humidity, consistent care, and often goes dormant in winter. But if you can provide the right conditions (humidifier running 24/7 or a greenhouse cabinet), Maharani is a stunning and rewarding plant. The grey-green color and pebbled texture are unlike any other alocasia.