Alocasia Jacklyn Care: The Rare Skeleton Alocasia

Alocasia Jacklyn (Alocasia sulawesi, also sometimes called Alocasia portei or Alocasia ‘Tandurusa’) is one of the rarest, most sought-after, and most expensive alocasias in the houseplant world—and when you see one in person, it’s immediately obvious why collectors obsess over it. The leaves are deeply lobed with dramatic cuts and indentations that create a skeleton-like or stag horn silhouette. The veins are thick, pronounced, and raised, creating a three-dimensional texture. The leaves are thick and leathery with a waxy, almost succulent-like feel. Each leaf looks like it was hand-sculpted by an artist. The overall effect is alien, prehistoric, and absolutely stunning.

Why Alocasia Jacklyn is extremely rare and valuable:

Native to a tiny region: Jacklyn is endemic to Sulawesi, Indonesia—specifically a small area in the mountains. It’s not widely found in the wild, and habitat loss makes it increasingly rare.
Slow-growing: Jacklyn is one of the slowest-growing alocasias. It may produce only 1 to 3 new leaves per year, even in ideal conditions. This makes propagation and cultivation time-consuming.
Difficult to propagate: Jacklyn produces offsets (baby plants from the corm) very slowly and unpredictably. It can take 2 to 5 years for a mature plant to produce a single offset. This keeps supply extremely low.
High demand: Jacklyn is a grail plant for alocasia collectors and rare plant enthusiasts. The combination of rarity, slow growth, and striking appearance drives prices to $200 to $1,000+ depending on size and availability.

Why Jacklyn is one of the most challenging alocasias:

Very high humidity required: 70 to 90 percent humidity is absolutely essential—higher than almost any other houseplant. Below 70 percent, new leaves struggle to unfurl, edges turn brown, and spider mites appear. Most people need a greenhouse cabinet to grow Jacklyn successfully.
Prone to dormancy: Like many alocasias, Jacklyn can go dormant in fall or winter (or when stressed). All the leaves yellow and die back, leaving only the corm alive underground. This is completely normal but extremely stressful when you’ve spent $500+ on a plant.
Sensitive to overwatering: Jacklyn is prone to root rot if soil stays too wet. It needs very well-draining, chunky soil and careful watering.
Slow recovery: If Jacklyn loses leaves (from dormancy, pests, or stress), it takes months to regrow them because of its slow growth rate.
Advanced-level care required: This is not a plant for beginners or even intermediate growers. It’s for serious collectors who have experience with high-humidity plants, understand dormancy, and are willing to invest in controlled environments (greenhouse cabinets, humidifiers).

Jacklyn vs. other rare alocasias:

Jacklyn: Deeply lobed skeleton leaves, thick leathery texture, very slow-growing, extremely rare, $200 to $1,000+.
Alocasia Azlanii (Red Mambo): Iridescent copper-red leaves with pink undersides, slightly faster-growing, rare, $100 to $500.
Alocasia Stingray: Upward-pointing stingray-shaped leaves, faster-growing, more affordable, $30 to $100.
Alocasia Dragon Scale: Silver-green leaves with deeply sunken dark veins, easier and faster-growing, $30 to $80.

All need high humidity and can go dormant, but Jacklyn is the slowest-growing and most challenging.

If you’re a serious collector willing to invest in a greenhouse cabinet and accept the possibility of dormancy, Jacklyn is a grail plant that will make your collection truly special. Let’s talk about how to grow it successfully.

Quick Care Summary

Light: Bright, indirect light
Water: When top inch of soil is dry
Humidity: 70 to 90 percent (very high)
Growth habit: Upright, medium-sized
Biggest challenge: Very high humidity, rare, expensive, and advanced

Light

Alocasia Jacklyn needs bright, indirect light to produce its distinctive deeply lobed leaves with pronounced veins. This is critical—in adequate light, the leaves develop deep, dramatic lobes and the skeleton-like silhouette that makes Jacklyn special. In low light, the lobes become shallower, less defined, and the leaves are smaller. The plant loses much of its visual impact.

Best light:

East-facing window: Gentle morning sun (even a little direct morning sun is usually fine for Jacklyn) followed by bright indirect light the rest of the day. This is ideal.
Bright, indirect light for most of the day: South or west-facing windows are okay if the plant is placed a few feet back (3 to 6 feet) so it gets bright ambient light without direct afternoon sun.
Greenhouse cabinet with grow lights: Many collectors grow Jacklyn in a greenhouse cabinet with full-spectrum LED grow lights. This provides consistent bright light and makes it easier to control humidity.

Why bright indirect light matters for Jacklyn:

Deeper, more dramatic lobes: The signature deeply cut, skeleton-like leaf shape is most pronounced in bright light. In low light, the lobes become shallower and less impressive.
Larger leaves: In adequate light, mature Jacklyn leaves can reach 8 to 14 inches long. In low light, leaves may stay 4 to 6 inches.
Stronger, thicker texture: The thick, leathery, waxy texture is more pronounced in bright light.
Faster growth (relatively): Jacklyn is slow-growing even in ideal conditions, but in bright light, you might see a new leaf every 2 to 4 months during the growing season. In low light, growth can slow to one leaf every 6+ months.

What happens in low light:

Shallower lobes: The leaves lose their deeply cut, dramatic skeleton shape and become less lobed or almost entire (solid edges). This is the most obvious visual change and the biggest loss of what makes Jacklyn special.
Smaller leaves: Leaves stay small (4 to 6 inches instead of 8 to 14 inches).
Slower growth: Already slow, Jacklyn becomes glacially slow in low light.
Increased risk of dormancy: Low light is a common stress trigger that can push Jacklyn into dormancy (all leaves die back).

Can you use grow lights? Yes, and many serious collectors grow Jacklyn exclusively under grow lights in a greenhouse cabinet. Full-spectrum LED grow lights placed 12 to 18 inches above the plant for 12 to 14 hours per day provide consistent, ideal light. This is especially helpful for maintaining high humidity in a controlled environment.

Signs of too much light (direct afternoon sun):

Faded, bleached, or pale leaves: The deep green becomes washed out or yellowish.
Brown, scorched edges or patches: Direct hot sun can burn the leaves, even though they’re thick. Afternoon sun is too intense.
Leaves lose their glossy, waxy sheen: Sunburned leaves look dull and damaged.

Bottom line: Bright, indirect light (or grow lights) is essential. An east window is ideal. If your Jacklyn’s lobes are shallow or leaves are small, the first fix is always more light.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Alocasia Jacklyn likes consistent moisture during the growing season but is very sensitive to overwatering—root rot is one of the most common causes of death for rare alocasias. Getting watering right is about finding the balance between adequate moisture and avoiding waterlogged, suffocating soil.

How to water:

Check the top inch of soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp or moist, wait another day or two.
Water thoroughly with filtered or distilled water until water runs freely out the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture and flushes out any accumulated salts from fertilizer.
Let excess water drain completely, then empty the saucer. Never let the pot sit in standing water—this causes root rot within days to weeks.

Typical watering schedule:

Spring and summer (active growing season): Every 5 to 7 days, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and soil mix. In bright, warm conditions with good airflow, you might water every 5 days. In cooler or shadier conditions, every 7 to 10 days.
Fall and winter (slower growth or dormancy): Reduce watering significantly. If the plant is growing slowly but still has leaves, water every 10 to 14 days or when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. If the plant goes dormant (all leaves die back), water very sparingly—just enough to keep the corm from shriveling (once every 3 to 4 weeks, very lightly). Overwatering a dormant corm is the easiest way to kill it.

Why alocasias are sensitive to overwatering:

Alocasias have tuberous roots/corms that store water and energy. If the soil stays waterlogged, the corm and roots rot quickly. This is especially true for rare, slow-growing alocasias like Jacklyn—they use water more slowly than fast-growing varieties, so soil stays wet longer. Always use very well-draining, chunky soil (more in the Soil section) and err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering.

Water quality: Alocasias are somewhat sensitive to tap water. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, fluoridated, or hard (high in minerals), consider using filtered or distilled water. This reduces the risk of brown edges and mineral buildup in the soil. If your tap water is soft and relatively chemical-free, it’s usually fine. Let it sit out for 24 hours before use to allow chlorine to evaporate.

Signs of overwatering:

Yellow leaves (starting at the bottom and progressing upward)
Soft, mushy stems or corm at the base of the plant
Soil stays wet for 10+ days after watering
Soil smells sour, rotten, or musty
Roots or corm are black and mushy instead of white/tan and firm (visible if you unpot the plant)

If you’re overwatering, the corm rots and the plant dies quickly. The fix: Let the soil dry out more between waterings, improve drainage by adding more perlite and orchid bark, make sure the pot has drainage holes, and consider repotting if root rot has set in. If the corm is mushy, the plant is likely beyond saving. If it’s still firm, cut away any black, mushy roots and repot in fresh, very chunky soil.

Signs of underwatering (less common):

Drooping, limp leaves
Leaves feel soft or wilted
Dry, crispy brown edges (though this is more commonly caused by low humidity)
Soil is bone dry several inches down

If you’re underwatering, the fix is simple: Water more frequently.

How to tell the difference between brown edges from low humidity vs. underwatering:

Low humidity damage: Brown, crispy edges on otherwise upright, healthy-looking leaves. The plant isn’t drooping. Soil moisture is adequate.
Underwatering damage: Brown, crispy edges plus drooping or curling leaves. The soil is very dry. The whole plant looks thirsty.

For Jacklyn, brown edges are almost always caused by low humidity (below 70 percent), not underwatering.

Bottom line: Water when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season, always let excess water drain completely, and reduce watering dramatically in fall/winter or if the plant goes dormant. When in doubt, wait another day—Jacklyn handles slight underwatering better than overwatering.

Humidity

Very high humidity is absolutely non-negotiable for Alocasia Jacklyn. This is the single most important factor in whether you’ll succeed or fail with this plant. 70 to 90 percent humidity is required—higher than almost any other houseplant. If you can’t provide this level of humidity consistently, do not buy Jacklyn. It will struggle, produce damaged leaves, and likely go dormant or die.

Ideal humidity: 70 to 90 percent year-round.

What different humidity levels mean for Jacklyn:

80 to 90 percent (optimal): The plant thrives. Leaves are perfect, glossy, and deeply lobed with no browning. New leaves unfurl smoothly and fully. Growth is as fast as Jacklyn gets (still slow, but consistent). The lobes develop fully and dramatically. This is the humidity level in the plant’s native Sulawesi mountain rainforest habitat.
70 to 80 percent (good, minimum for long-term success): The plant does well. You might see occasional minor browning on older leaf tips, but overall the plant looks healthy and produces impressive leaves. This is the absolute minimum you should aim for.
60 to 70 percent (tolerable very short-term, but problematic): You’ll see brown, crispy edges on most leaves. New leaves often struggle to unfurl properly—they get stuck in the cataphyll (protective sheath) and emerge damaged, torn, or crinkled. The plant is stressed. This is not sustainable long-term.
Below 60 percent (severe stress, likely failure): Brown, crispy edges on all leaves. New leaves fail to unfurl or emerge severely damaged. Spider mites appear almost immediately (they thrive in dry air and love stressed alocasias). The plant may go into stress-induced dormancy (all leaves die back). Most homes sit at 30 to 50 percent humidity without intervention—far too dry for Jacklyn. You will not succeed at this humidity level.

Why Jacklyn needs higher humidity than most alocasias:

Even among alocasias (which are known for needing high humidity), Jacklyn is exceptionally picky. The deeply lobed leaves have a large surface area and many thin, delicate points (the tips of the lobes) that dry out very easily. Additionally, Jacklyn is slow-growing and produces new leaves infrequently—when a new leaf emerges, it’s critical that it unfurls perfectly. In low humidity, new leaves often get stuck and emerge damaged, and you may have to wait months for the next leaf. This makes Jacklyn far less forgiving than faster-growing alocasias like Polly or Frydek.

How to provide 70 to 90 percent humidity (realistically, you need a greenhouse cabinet):

1. Greenhouse cabinet (the only truly reliable option for most people):

A greenhouse cabinet is a glass or acrylic cabinet with shelves, LED grow lights, and controlled humidity. You place your high-humidity plants inside, close the doors, and the humidity stays consistently high (70 to 95 percent) because the air is enclosed.
Why it’s essential for Jacklyn: A greenhouse cabinet is the only practical way for most people to maintain 70 to 90 percent humidity year-round. It creates a controlled microclimate where you can grow Jacklyn and other ultra-picky plants (rare anthuriums, rare alocasias, etc.) successfully.
Cost: $100 to $500+ depending on size and quality. IKEA Milsbo ($100 to $150) and Detolf ($70 to $100) cabinets are popular budget options. Add grow lights ($30 to $100), a small humidifier inside ($20 to $40), and a fan for airflow ($10 to $20).
Is it worth it? If you’re spending $200 to $1,000 on a Jacklyn, investing $200 to $300 in a greenhouse cabinet setup makes sense. It’s the only way to virtually guarantee success.

2. Humidifier in a small room (less reliable but possible):

If you dedicate a small room (bathroom, closet, or small bedroom) with a powerful humidifier running 24/7 and group your high-humidity plants together, you might be able to reach 70 to 80 percent humidity in the immediate area around the plants.
Challenges: Hard to maintain consistency. Opening doors or windows drops humidity immediately. Requires constant monitoring with a hygrometer.

3. Large terrarium or grow tent (alternative):

A large terrarium (24+ inches) or indoor grow tent with humidity control can work for smaller Jacklyn plants.
Pros: Enclosed environment maintains high humidity.
Cons: Limited space. More setup required (lights, fans, humidity system).

Why standard humidifiers alone don’t work for Jacklyn:

A standard humidifier placed near the plant in an open room will raise humidity by 10 to 20 percent at most (e.g., from 40 percent to 50 to 60 percent). This is helpful for plants that need 50 to 70 percent humidity (like calatheas), but it’s not enough for Jacklyn. To reach 70 to 90 percent, you need an enclosed or semi-enclosed environment where humidity can accumulate without dissipating into the dry air of the rest of your home.

Signs of low humidity (and the damage it causes):

Brown, crispy leaf edges and tips: The most obvious sign. The delicate lobed tips dry out first and turn brown. Once this happens, the damage is permanent. You can trim off brown edges for aesthetics, but you need to fix humidity to prevent future damage.
New leaves stuck in the cataphyll (protective sheath): This is extremely common with Jacklyn in low humidity. The new leaf emerges from a sheath, and in adequate humidity (70%+), it unfurls smoothly over 1 to 3 weeks. In low humidity, the leaf dries out and sticks to the sheath. When it finally breaks free (or you help it), it’s often torn, crinkled, or permanently damaged. This is heartbreaking when you’ve waited months for a new leaf.
Leaves curling inward: The plant is trying to reduce surface area exposed to dry air to minimize water loss. Stress response.
Spider mites: These tiny pests love stressed alocasias in dry air. They appear almost instantly when humidity drops below 60 percent. You’ll see fine webbing, stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves, and tiny moving dots (the mites). Spider mite infestations on rare, slow-growing plants like Jacklyn are devastating because the plant takes months to recover.
Stress-induced dormancy: Prolonged low humidity can trigger dormancy—all the leaves yellow and die back, leaving only the corm alive. The plant may regrow in spring, but there’s no guarantee.

Bottom line: If you want to grow Alocasia Jacklyn successfully, you need a greenhouse cabinet or another controlled high-humidity environment. This is non-negotiable. Don’t attempt to grow Jacklyn in normal household humidity (40 to 60 percent)—it will not work.

Soil and Pot

Use well-draining, airy soil.

Best soil:

40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss

Pot requirements:

Must have drainage holes
Not too large

Temperature

Temperature: 65 to 80 F
Avoid: Cold drafts, temperatures below 60 F

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
Use diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength)
Skip fertilizing in fall and winter

Winter Dormancy (Essential Information for Jacklyn Owners)

Alocasia Jacklyn, like many alocasias, is prone to dormancy—especially in fall and winter when temperatures drop, light decreases, and indoor air becomes drier. Dormancy means the plant goes completely dormant: all the leaves yellow one by one and die back, and only the corm (the underground bulb-like structure) remains alive. The plant appears dead, but it’s not—it’s resting.

This is completely normal and natural, but it’s extremely stressful when you’ve spent $200 to $1,000 on a rare plant and it suddenly looks like it’s dying.

Why dormancy happens:

Natural cycle: In the wild, many alocasias experience a dry season or cooler temperatures and go dormant to conserve energy. It’s an evolutionary survival strategy.
Environmental triggers: Indoors, dormancy is usually triggered by reduced light (shorter days in fall/winter), cooler temperatures (below 65°F), or stress (low humidity, pests, transplant shock, underwatering, overwatering).
Not all alocasias go dormant: Some alocasias (like Polly, Frydek, or Regal Shield) can be kept actively growing year-round with consistent warmth, bright light, and high humidity. Others (like Jacklyn, Zebrina, and many rare varieties) have a stronger dormancy tendency and may go dormant even in ideal conditions.

What happens during dormancy:

Leaves yellow one by one, starting with the oldest leaf and progressing to newer leaves.
All leaves eventually die back completely. The plant is left with just the corm in the soil.
Growth stops entirely. No new leaves emerge.
The corm remains alive underground, storing energy to regrow in spring.

How to care for a dormant Jacklyn:

Stop fertilizing immediately. A dormant plant isn’t growing and doesn’t need nutrients. Fertilizing can cause salt buildup and damage the corm.
Reduce watering dramatically. A dormant corm uses very little water. Water just enough to keep the corm from shriveling—once every 3 to 4 weeks, very lightly (just a small amount of water around the edges of the pot). Do not keep the soil moist—this is the biggest mistake. Overwatering a dormant corm causes it to rot, and the plant dies.
Keep the plant warm. Place it in a spot that stays 60 to 70°F. Avoid cold drafts or temperatures below 60°F.
Don’t throw the plant away or unpot it. The corm is alive. Leave it in its pot and wait.
Wait for spring regrowth. When temperatures warm, light increases, and the corm senses favorable conditions (usually March to May), it will send up a new shoot. This can take weeks to months. Be patient.

How to check if the corm is still alive:

If you’re worried the plant is dead (not just dormant), you can carefully check the corm:

Gently dig down into the soil with your fingers and locate the corm.
Feel the corm. If it’s firm and solid, it’s alive. If it’s soft, mushy, or black, it has rotted and the plant is dead.
Look for new growth. Sometimes you’ll see a small pointed shoot emerging from the corm, indicating it’s about to regrow.

Can you prevent dormancy?

Sometimes, yes. To minimize the chance of dormancy:

Maintain consistent warmth (70 to 80°F year-round). Avoid temperature drops below 65°F.
Provide consistent bright light year-round. Use grow lights in winter to supplement weak natural light (12 to 14 hours per day).
Keep humidity very high (70 to 90 percent) consistently. A greenhouse cabinet helps enormously.
Avoid stress. Don’t repot in fall/winter, watch for pests, and maintain consistent watering.

Even with perfect care, some alocasias (including Jacklyn) may insist on dormancy. It’s part of their nature. Don’t panic if it happens—just follow dormant care instructions and wait for regrowth.

The emotional challenge of dormancy with rare, expensive plants:

Watching a $500 Jacklyn lose all its leaves is incredibly stressful. Many collectors worry they’ve killed the plant or made a terrible mistake. Here’s the reality:

Dormancy is normal, not failure. Even expert growers experience dormancy with rare alocasias.
The plant will likely regrow if you care for the corm properly (minimal water, warmth, patience).
It may take months. Regrowth can take 2 to 6 months from the start of dormancy. This feels like forever when you’re waiting.
Rare plants are high-risk. Part of collecting rare, slow-growing plants like Jacklyn is accepting that they’re challenging and unpredictable. There’s always risk.

When does regrowth happen?

Typically in spring (March to May in the Northern Hemisphere) when temperatures warm and light increases. You’ll see a small pointed shoot emerge from the corm. Once it starts, growth accelerates. The first new leaf may emerge within 2 to 6 weeks of the shoot appearing.

Common Problems

New leaves not unfurling (stuck in the cataphyll)

This is the most common and heartbreaking problem with Jacklyn—you wait months for a new leaf, and it gets stuck in the protective sheath (cataphyll) and emerges damaged or doesn’t emerge at all.

Cause: Very low humidity (below 70 percent)

When humidity is below 70 percent, the emerging leaf dries out and sticks to the inside of the cataphyll. The leaf can’t slide out smoothly. When it finally breaks free (or you help it), it’s often torn, crinkled, or missing chunks.
The fix: Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent immediately. This is non-negotiable. Place the plant in a greenhouse cabinet, terrarium, or enclosed humid environment. If humidity is consistently high, future new leaves will unfurl properly (though it may take months for the next leaf to emerge given Jacklyn’s slow growth).
Can you help stuck leaves? Some growers gently peel back the cataphyll with clean fingers or tweezers to help the leaf emerge, but this is risky—you can easily tear or damage the leaf. Only attempt this if the leaf has been stuck for 2+ weeks and humidity is now high. Be extremely gentle.

Once a leaf emerges damaged, you can’t fix it. Focus on preventing future damage by maintaining very high humidity for all future new leaves.

Brown, crispy leaf edges (almost always low humidity)

Brown edges on Jacklyn’s deeply lobed leaves are extremely common and almost always caused by low humidity.

Cause: Low humidity (below 70 percent)

What it looks like: Brown, crispy edges along the leaf margins and especially at the tips of the lobes (the pointy parts). The browning is usually uniform.
Why it happens: The deeply lobed leaves have many thin, pointed tips that dry out very easily when humidity is low. The tissue dies and turns brown.
The fix: Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent with a greenhouse cabinet or similar controlled environment. New leaves will emerge without browning if humidity is consistently high. You can trim off brown edges on existing leaves with clean scissors for aesthetics, but the damage is permanent.

Cause 2: Underwatering (less common)

What it looks like: Brown edges plus drooping or soft leaves. The soil is very dry.
The fix: Water more frequently.

For Jacklyn, brown edges are 95% humidity-related and 5% underwatering-related. Fix humidity first.

Yellow leaves

One or two yellow leaves over time can be normal aging, but multiple yellow leaves or rapid yellowing indicates a problem (or dormancy).

Cause 1: Dormancy (most common in fall/winter)

What it looks like: Leaves yellow one by one, starting with the oldest and progressing to newer leaves. Eventually all leaves die back. The plant enters dormancy.
What to do: This is normal (though stressful). Follow dormant care: reduce watering to once every 3 to 4 weeks (just enough to keep corm from shriveling), stop fertilizing, keep warm (60 to 70°F), and wait for spring regrowth. Don’t throw the plant away—the corm is alive.

Cause 2: Overwatering or root rot

What it looks like: Yellow leaves plus soil stays wet for 10+ days, base of plant feels soft or mushy, soil smells sour.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes the corm and roots to rot. Once the corm rots, the plant dies.
The fix: Unpot the plant and check the corm. If it’s firm, cut away any black, mushy roots and repot in fresh, very chunky soil. If the corm is soft and mushy, the plant is likely dead. Going forward, let soil dry out more between waterings and improve drainage (more perlite and orchid bark).

Cause 3: Natural aging

What it looks like: One yellow leaf at a time, usually the oldest (lowest) leaf. The rest of the plant looks healthy.
What to do: Cut off the yellow leaf at the base. This is normal.

Spider mites (extremely common in low humidity)

Spider mites are tiny pests that suck sap from leaves, causing damage and stress. Alocasia Jacklyn is highly susceptible to spider mites, especially when humidity is below 70 percent.

Signs:

Fine webbing on stems, leaf undersides, and between leaves
Tiny moving dots (the mites themselves, visible with a magnifying glass) on undersides of leaves
Stippling (tiny yellow or white dots) on leaves where mites have fed
Leaves look dull, dusty, or faded

Treatment:

Increase humidity to 70 to 90 percent immediately. Spider mites thrive in dry air and hate high humidity. This is the most important preventive and treatment measure.
Spray the plant with water to knock off mites. Take it to the sink or shower and spray thoroughly, especially undersides of leaves.
Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Spray the entire plant (especially undersides) according to product instructions. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 weeks to kill newly hatched mites (eggs are resistant to treatment).
Isolate the plant until the infestation is controlled so mites don’t spread to other plants.

Prevention: Keep humidity at 70 to 90 percent consistently. Spider mites rarely infest plants in high-humidity environments. This is yet another reason a greenhouse cabinet is essential for Jacklyn.

Leaves not developing deep lobes (shallow lobes or nearly entire leaves)

If your Jacklyn’s leaves are staying relatively un-lobed or only shallowly lobed instead of developing the deep, dramatic skeleton-like cuts, it’s usually a light issue.

Cause: Not enough light (most common)

In low light, Jacklyn produces leaves with shallower lobes or nearly solid edges. The plant doesn’t have enough energy to produce the complex, deeply lobed leaf shape.
The fix: Move to much brighter indirect light (east window is ideal, or add grow lights in a greenhouse cabinet). New leaves should develop deeper lobes over time (though given Jacklyn’s slow growth, it may take 6+ months to see significant improvement).

Cause 2: The plant is still young/immature

Very young Jacklyn plants sometimes produce less-lobed leaves. As the plant matures, the lobes become deeper and more dramatic.
Be patient. Continue providing ideal care (bright light, 70 to 90% humidity, proper watering), and the lobes will develop as the plant matures.

Entire plant died back—is it dead or dormant?

If all the leaves have died and the plant appears completely dead:

Check the corm. Gently dig into the soil and feel the corm. Firm corm = alive (dormant). Soft, mushy corm = dead (rotted).
If the corm is firm: The plant is dormant, not dead. Follow dormant care (minimal water, warmth, stop fertilizing, wait for spring regrowth).
If the corm is mushy: The plant has rotted and is dead. This is usually caused by overwatering during dormancy or active growth.

Propagating Alocasia Jacklyn

Jacklyn is propagated by division (separating offsets from the parent corm). However, Jacklyn is extremely slow to produce offsets—this is a major reason it remains so rare and expensive.

When offsets appear (if ever):

Mature Jacklyn plants (3+ years old) occasionally produce small offsets (baby plants) from the main corm.
This can take 2 to 5+ years, and some plants never produce offsets. There’s no way to force it.

How to propagate by division:

Wait until the offset is at least 2 to 3 inches tall with its own leaves (not just a tiny bump). Larger offsets have better survival rates.
Unpot the parent plant carefully during repotting (spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing).
Gently separate the offset from the main corm. The offset should have its own small corm and roots attached. Use a clean, sharp knife if necessary to cut it away from the parent.
Pot the offset in a small pot (3 to 4-inch) with fresh, very chunky soil (40% potting soil, 30% orchid bark, 20% perlite, 10% peat moss).
Keep humidity very high (80 to 90 percent if possible) for the first 4 to 8 weeks while the offset establishes. Place in a greenhouse cabinet or cover with a clear plastic bag.
Water very lightly—just enough to keep the soil barely moist. Offsets are extremely prone to rot if overwatered.
Don’t fertilize for at least 2 to 3 months. Let the offset establish roots first.

Success rate: 60 to 75 percent if you’re careful and keep humidity very high. Offsets are delicate and can go into shock or rot easily.

Why don’t growers just propagate more Jacklyn from offsets? Because Jacklyn produces offsets so slowly and unpredictably. Even professional nurseries struggle to produce large numbers of plants. This is why Jacklyn remains rare and expensive despite high demand.

Tissue culture (for commercial production): Some rare plants can be mass-produced through tissue culture (growing plants from tiny tissue samples in a lab). Tissue culture has been attempted with Jacklyn, but it’s difficult and slow, and success rates are low. This keeps supply limited even with commercial production efforts.

Why Jacklyn Is So Rare and Expensive (The Economics of Rare Plants)

Native habitat: Jacklyn is endemic to Sulawesi, Indonesia—specifically a small mountainous region. It’s not widely distributed in the wild, and habitat loss (deforestation) makes it increasingly rare in nature. Some sources suggest it may be endangered or vulnerable in the wild.

Slow growth: Jacklyn is one of the slowest-growing alocasias. Even in ideal conditions (bright light, 80%+ humidity, perfect care), it may produce only 1 to 3 new leaves per year. Most alocasias produce 4 to 8+ leaves per year. This slow growth means:

Time to maturity: It takes 2 to 4 years for a small Jacklyn to reach a size where it’s impressive enough to sell at high prices.
Limited propagation: Offsets appear rarely (every 2 to 5+ years, if at all), so propagation is painfully slow.

Difficulty of cultivation: Jacklyn requires very specific conditions (70 to 90% humidity, bright light, careful watering). Most growers can’t provide these conditions, which limits commercial production. Only specialized nurseries and serious collectors can grow Jacklyn successfully.

High demand: Jacklyn is a grail plant for alocasia collectors and rare plant enthusiasts. The combination of striking appearance (skeleton leaves), extreme rarity, and difficulty creates intense demand. When plants become available, they sell out quickly.

Typical prices:

Small plant (1 to 2 leaves, 4 to 6 inches tall): $200 to $400
Medium plant (2 to 3 leaves, 6 to 10 inches tall): $400 to $700
Large, mature plant (3+ leaves, 10+ inches tall): $700 to $1,500+
Prices fluctuate based on availability, size, and market trends.

Is Jacklyn worth the price? That’s a personal decision. If you’re a serious collector with the right setup (greenhouse cabinet, controlled environment) and you understand the risks (dormancy, slow growth, potential loss), Jacklyn can be a centerpiece of your collection. If you’re new to high-humidity plants or don’t have a controlled environment, it’s probably not worth the investment—consider starting with easier rare alocasias like Frydek, Azlanii, or Dragon Scale.

Toxicity

Alocasia Jacklyn is toxic to pets and humans if ingested. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause intense burning and irritation of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract. Keep out of reach of children and pets. Wash hands after handling. If ingested, seek medical attention.

What To Do Next

If you love Jacklyn and want more rare alocasias:

Try Alocasia Azlanii (Red Mambo) for iridescent copper-red leaves with metallic sheen and pink undersides. Stunning, rare, slightly faster-growing than Jacklyn, $100 to $500.
Try Alocasia Nebula (Imperialis) for thick, blue-green leaves with silver veining. Very rare, similar care to Jacklyn.
Try Alocasia Melo (Rugosa) for thick, textured leaves that look like reptile skin. Rare, slow-growing, easier than Jacklyn (tolerates 60 to 70% humidity).

If Jacklyn is too expensive or advanced:

Try Alocasia Stingray for unique upward-pointing stingray-shaped leaves. Much more affordable ($30 to $100), faster-growing, still needs 60 to 70% humidity but more forgiving.
Try Alocasia Frydek for dramatic dark green velvet leaves with bright white veins. Easier than Jacklyn (tolerates 60 to 70% humidity), more affordable ($30 to $80), faster-growing.
Try Alocasia Dragon Scale for silver-green leaves with deeply sunken dark veins. Beautiful, easier and faster-growing than Jacklyn, $30 to $80.
Try Alocasia Regal Shield for massive, bold leaves (18 to 24 inches). Much easier (tolerates 50 to 60% humidity), fast-growing, beginner-friendly, $20 to $50.

If your Jacklyn goes dormant:

Don’t panic. This is normal for many alocasias.
Follow dormant care: Minimal water (once every 3 to 4 weeks), stop fertilizing, keep warm (60 to 70°F), and wait.
Check the corm to confirm it’s still firm (alive).
Be patient. Regrowth usually happens in spring (March to May) and can take 2 to 6 months from the start of dormancy.
If the corm is firm, the plant will likely regrow. Give it time.

If your Jacklyn has brown edges or new leaves won’t unfurl:

You need a greenhouse cabinet or controlled high-humidity environment. 70 to 90% humidity is non-negotiable.
Standard humidifiers in open rooms won’t provide enough humidity. You need an enclosed space.
Consider investing in a greenhouse cabinet setup ($200 to $300 total for cabinet, lights, small humidifier, fan). This is the only reliable way to grow Jacklyn successfully indoors.

If you’re considering buying Jacklyn:

Do you have a greenhouse cabinet or terrarium? If not, can you invest in one ($200 to $300)? Without controlled 70 to 90% humidity, Jacklyn will struggle.
Are you experienced with high-humidity plants? If you’ve successfully grown calatheas, rare anthuriums, or other alocasias, you might be ready. If not, start with easier plants first.
Can you accept the risk of dormancy? Even with perfect care, Jacklyn may go dormant and take months to regrow. Are you emotionally prepared for this?
Is the price worth it to you? At $200 to $1,000, Jacklyn is a significant investment. Make sure you understand the risks and have the right setup before buying.